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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    They, and the con rod bolts should both be replaced.
  2. 1 point
    Hi Fixxxer, Save your files as PNGs. Images need not be larger than 1280x720 at 72dpi. Photoshop will allow you to save "small" PNGs. If you don't have Photoshop, there are a ton of free small stand-alone 3rd party applications that will truncate PNGs. Looking forward to seeing your tutorial!
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    Resolved - I accidentally installed the flap backwards.
  5. 1 point
    Probably the battery vent tube. They often get forgotten about when batteries are changed.
  6. 1 point
    You will need to find a salvage yard for internal light parts as Porsche only sells the whole assembly.
  7. 1 point
    The diagnosis detects pulsations in the intake air tract from the boost pressure sensor reading. When the overrun recirculating air valve is stuck in closed position, these are produced by the exhaust turbocharger (pumping in the direction of the closed throttle valve). This fault can also occur in extremely cold conditions when the membranes of the overrun recirculating air valves can be frozen solid for a short time just after you start the engine.
  8. 1 point
    P1666 Overrun Recirculating Air Valve - Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - Overrun recirculating air valve stuck in closed position at times (due to ice) - Overrun recirculating air valve faulty
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Thank you - there is a "Donate" link at the top and bottom of every page.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    You are probably going to get several opinions on this one. However, since you have to meet the stringent CA emissions requirements, and the cat pipe you are referring to has the pre/post O2 sensors, I would say that you need an OE or CARB certified cat as a replacement. You might be able to find a low mileage used one at a junk yard...DC Autos.
  13. 1 point
    I agree with Pierre; a large expense with little benefit.
  14. 1 point
    Hi All, Gona upgrade to a short shifter 99 Boxster. The new shifter has the bend in the shifter leaning towards the driver (L) side. In some pix and videos it looks like it should be leaning to the R side. Which is it.... or is it a matter of preference? Read some threads where you just un bolt it and turn it around. Thanks V
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    No, you can't switch them. Once the immobiliser code has been programmed into a KESSY/PAS control unit, it can't be over-written with a PIWIS tester. You might want to try an automotive electronics repairer, to see if they can write the immobiliser code directly to the eeprom. I have heard of that being done, but have no experience.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    It is normal to hear more air flow noises with aftermarket filters. You could always test by putting the OEM filters back in.
  19. 1 point
    I just installed a Pioneer AVH-2440NEX, Metra 99-9604b dash kit and Scosche LPPE15 wiring interface from Crutchfield in my 2005 Cayenne. Absolutely terrific sound. Existing amplifier and subwoofer work great. I highly recommend using their $25 ReadyHarness Service tp pre-wire everything. Like others in this forum, I needed to trim the dash plate to get a nice flush mount. The USB AUX adapter from Amazon fits perfectly in an unused dash hole. Total installation was was less than $700. $350 for the radio and about the same for the harnesses. The Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter is not needed. A 3.5m plug on the adapter fits in the back of the radio and gives steering wheel volume and track control.
  20. 1 point
    I thought I would collect this for ease of use by forum members. Hope it helps with questions like 'when should I do this', or what kind of maintenance at xxxx miles. All of the below pertains only to B markets. Porsche organizes countries it sells its cars to, into markets, classified as A, B, or C. USA falls into the B market category, and since I reside there, below info will be only for B markets. If you live in other market, I am sure you can approximate durations, etc, but from what I see, there is language stating countries with leaded fuel do their maintenance on intervals that are shorter than in B markets. So please go check your market or take the info as an approximation only. Also, I have Panamera Turbo, so these intervals are for this model. Most models follow same if not very similar schedule though. B market countries: Armenia, Australia, Bahrain, Brunei, Bulgaria, Estonia, French Polynesia, GhanaIndonesia, Israel, Japan, Jordan, Canada, Kazakhstan, Qatar, KuwaitLatvia, Lebanon, Lithuania, Malaysia, Moldova, New Caledonia, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines, Reunion, Romania, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, South Korea, SyriaTaiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, USA, UAE (Abu Dhabi, Dubai), Vietnam, Belarus, Cyprus. PANAMERA 970: OIL CHANGE SERVICE: Oil & Filter Change - Every 15,000 km or 10,000 miles, or 1 year - ~9 quarts (Panamera V8) Whichever comes first - 1 year, or distance Oil & Filter Change - Every 10,000 km or 6,000 miles, in countries with leaded fuel INTERMEDIATE MAINTENANCE: Every 30,000 km or 20,000 miles If mileage for intermediate maintenance not reached, it must be done after 2, 6, 10, etc years (starting year 2, every 4 years) Change engine oil & filter - following oil & filter change schedule Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight cleaning system: check operation and nozzle. Tires and spare wheel: check tire pressure Diagnostic system: read out fault memory; reset maintenance interval Read out out soot mass in particle filter (Diesel version only) Particle filter: replace filter element Check wiper blades All headlights: check adjustment Battery vent hose: check condition Replace fuel filter (Diesel version only) Tires and spare wheel: check condition Brake lines: visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion Brake hoses: visual inspection for damage and routing Brake system: visual inspection of brake pads, brake discs for wear (not removing wheels) Drive shafts: visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage Radiators and air intakes: visual inspection for external contamination and blockage Coolant: check level and antifreeze Windscreen wiper/washer system: check fluid level; check window cleaner and antifreeze, depending on the season PDCC and power steering: check fluid level Test Drive & check function: Remote control Front seats Electric parking Foot brakes (also actuation travel) Engine Steering Transmission ParkAssist Cruise control PSM switch Heating Air conditioning Instruments Any other oils, fluids: visual inspection for leaks REGULAR MAINTENANCE: Every 60,000 km or 40,000 miles If mileage for regular maintenance not reached, it must be done after 4, 8, 12, etc years (every 4 years) Change engine oil & filter - following oil & filter change schedule Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight cleaning system - check operation and nozzle settings Horn: check operation Tires and spare wheel: check tire pressure Diagnostic system: read out fault memory; reset regular maintenance interval Seat belts: check operation and condition Particle filter: replace filter element Check wiper blades All headlights: check adjustment Trailer hitch: check function Battery vent hose: check condition Tires and spare wheel: check condition Brake system: visual inspection of brake pads and brake discs for wear Brake hoses: visual inspection for damage and routing Radiators and air intakes: visual inspection for external contamination and blockage Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, secure installation and damage Replace fuel filter (diesel version only) All other fluids visual inspection for leaks Brake lines: visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion Steering gear: visual inspection of bellows for damage Tie rod joints: check the play and dust boots Drive shafts: visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage Axle joints: check the play and visually inspect the dust boots for damage Exhaust system: visual inspection for leaks and damage, check engine mount Fuel lines and connections: visual inspection (in visible area) Coolant: check level and antifreeze Windscreen wiper/washer system: check fluid level; check window cleaner and antifreeze, depending on the season PDCC and power steering: check fluid level Test drive & check function: Remote control Front seats Electric parking Foot brakes (also actuation travel) Engine Steering Transmission ParkAssist Cruise control PSM switch Heating Air conditioning Instruments Other oils, fluids: visual inspection for leaks ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE EVERY 2 YEARS: Change engine oil & filter - following oil & filter change schedule Change brake fluid (use only original Porsche brake fluid) Tire sealing compound: check use-by date and replace if necessary File Condition Report for long-life guarantee ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE EVERY 4 YEARS: Change engine oil & filter - following oil & filter change schedule Replace tire sealing compound ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE FOR SPARK PLUGS: V6 - Replace every 60,000 km or 40,000 miles or every 4 years V8 S - Replace every 45,000km or 30,000mi or every 4 years GTS - Replace every 60,000km or 40,000mi or every 4 years Turbo - Replace every 45,000km or 30,000mi or every 4 years V8 S E-Hybrid - Replace every 60,000km or 40,000mi or every 4 years ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE EVERY 120,000km or 80,000 miles: Do every 120,000km or 80,000 miles or every 6 years For markets A & B Change oil & filter following oil & filter change schedule maintenance Air cleaner: replace filter element ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE EVERY 180,000km or 120,000 miles: For markets A & B Do every 180,000km or 120,000 miles or every 12 years Change engine oil & filter - following oil & filter change schedule All-wheel final drive: change oil Rear final drive: change oil Other noteworthy remarks from reviewing the maintenance schedule: - PDCC reservoir change replacement recommended only for C markets (non USA), at 90k km or 54k miles, then again at 240k km or 144k miles or after 16 years - PDK transmission oil change mentioned only for B markets (Panamera S E-hybrid, Panamera S hybrid only), at 90k km or 54k miles, then again at 240k km or 144k miles or after 16 years. I will be checking the maintenance schedule book inside the car to compare. If there are differences, I can chime in. This is really surprising. There are many places where PDK, PDCC reservoir is called for after 60k. I do not see that in the FSM. Some food for thought.
  21. 1 point
    You may want to checkout: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1079182-958-gts-transfer-case-rebuild-wish-me-luck.html#post15148042 and: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1080636-transfer-case-teardown-pictures.html We're (Rennlist) hoping for a good DIY with photos. There is another chap there doing his case and he's promised to video it. I would imagine any competent shop would be able to handle it. The failure really appears to be caused by rust in the clutch pack, giving some credence to Porsche's modification of the case vent.. and to change the oil at semi-regular intervals (pretty much settled at 20,000 miles for mine.. the oil is cheap. It's easy to do.) Although this chap did change the chain - he didn't offer photos of the new vs old chain side by side to see if there is any significant stretch.. so I'd be less concerned with that. What it does show is the transfer case is not undersized - there appears to be no notching of the clutch pack teeth or housing which could be expected if it was undersized.
  22. 1 point
    Just thought I'd come back in and share, the Cayenne is up and running and just started today. I was given the car in February totally free from a property transaction I did with a dealer, they couldn't get it started so they figured it was junk. I posted a list of errors and it gave like 8 pages of errors with durametric which is attached in this thread somewhere, my pit bull nature the fact that as a Christian, the word impossible is foreign to me, I went for it. After reading up on threads about wiring harnesses frying up because of some leakages found in these cars, I accidentally bidded for a complete main wiring harness and had to pay $350 for it, its sitting there and I didn't need it, I thought it had the main unit I needed which was the relay box and harness in the engine pay, so I had to buy that one, not much, under $100 if I recall. While stripping the old one, I noticed that the two front drains had been blocked with gunk, this was the start of the issue. The drains blocked, water filled the compartment till it entered the relay tray and the ECU on the other side and fried some modules in the car. So after replacing the relay tray and harness, fault code drops to 3 pages, showing the engine control module, kessy module and tiptronic module were fried, so since I knew where we were going, I gave the car to my mechanic to finish up. I bought an ECU for £45 it didn't work, so we bought a paired ECU, Kessy Module and Tiptronic module installed tested it a couple of days ago and the engine started right up (See attached video) without a hickup, that's like 5 years or more ago since it started last. Total Spend so far $1000 out of which about $400 spent on parts not needed (going back on ebay). For me it's been the joy of getting another P-Car up to spec from zero another successful project, I'm looking forward to getting everything up and running, thought I'd share this as it may be useful to someone someday. VID-20170923-WA0007.mp4
  23. 1 point
    Becker radio sticky knob fix. I actually performed this fix on my radio knobs about 3 months ago, but did not want to post anything until I know it is capable of surviving the 90+ heat wave we get here in DC. Well the fix helded up with not degradation in the appearance, texture, and feel so here is what I did. (sorry no pics of the painting) 1. Remove knobs from the radio by pulling the knobs straight out 2. If the knob have been textured from prior attempts to clean the gummy dissolved rubber off the knobs, gently rub/press/massage the knob to remove/smooth as much of the textured knob. Slight imperfections are ok. 3. Run to your local home center and purchase some 400 grit sand paper a can of Black Rust-oleum Rust Stop Gloss Protective Enamel spray paint. DO NOT GET THE SEMI GLOSS OR FLAT PAINT. The non-gloss paints made the knob gummier and did not dry after 3 days!!! 4. Place the knobs flat on the back side down in a shallow box about 12x12 and spray 10 light coat of paint over the whole knob. Allowing the knob to dry at least 2 hours between coats 5. After the 10th coat, let knob dry at least 24 hours 6. Gently sand the knob to smoothen out the slight imperfections 7. Place knob back in the box and apply another 10 coats of paint (20 coats total) 8. After the 20 coat, let the knob dry thoroughly. In 90 degree dry heat, it was completely dry in about 18 hours 9. Now with the 400 grit sand paper, GENTLY sand the knob so that the glossy finish is dull 10. Now here comes the fun, buff the knob on your tshirt to bring a little of the dull shine to life. 11. Reinstall knobs on the radio. 12. My knobs are near 100% match to the radio color and is no longer gummy or soft to the touch I have tried the plastic dip and spray methods and both left the knob with a cheap look and feel and the coating actually peeled off. This method when properly cured, produced a hard knob with out having to clean or remove the gummy stuff.
  24. 1 point
    First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 8) Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
  25. 1 point
    I had heard this urban legend that you can repair door dings and dents by rubbing dry ice over the dent and then heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun. It seemed simple enough, so I decided to try it on the wife's urban assault vehicle which has its fair share of door dings. I went over to our neighborhood grocery store and got 2 pounds of dry ice for $3. Here is the what the test door looked like before the test. Essentially the process is to take some dry ice (while wearing gloves, as it is very, very cold), and simply run the dry ice back and forth over the dent until the metal has cooled to the temperature of dry ice. This shrinks the sheet metal, and pulls in the dent. Next blow hot air onto the dented area using a hair drier or a heat gun making sure that you don't heat the sheet metal to over 195 ~ 200 degrees as you can damage the paint by heating any more than that. This will expand the metal and further smooth the dent. After you have the sheet metal hot, then run the dry ice over the dent again until the metal is cooled to the temperature of the dry ice again. It takes about 3-6 times of this hot-cold-hot-cold routine to get complete results, but you will start to see the dent go away after the 1st cycle. Repeat this process until the dent is gone to your satisfaction. Your end result should look like this: This trick works even better with aluminum panels, does not scratch, discolor or harm the paint because the face of the dry ice on the sheet metal has a thin layer of Carbon Dioxide gas that is boiling off from the frozen dry ice. I next tried this technique on the 996 with a small ding on the left rear quarter panel, and it worked perfectly. So $3 worth of dry ice and about 30 minutes saved me several hundred dollars for a paintless dent repair guy to do essentially the same job.
  26. 1 point
    The cooler for a Boxster tip is on the transmission. On a 996 tip it is in the front. Your profile says you have a Boxster S. So you would use a 996 tip cover because you have a third coolant radiator in the front.
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