Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/02/2020 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech It is under the car on the transmission, replacement procedure: http://www.locodemoto.com/transfer/Replacing-Reverse-Lights-Back-Up-Lights-Switch.pdf
  2. 1 point
    I believe that you will find that list is for the IMS Solution only, there is a sperate list for their ceramic hybrid retrofits.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Pelican is infamous for publishing questionable maintenance procedures, just look at their IMS procedures, which resulted in more screwed up engines than you can imagine. I did this for a living; drop the engine down a couple of inches and you will be done with the AOS in one hour. Pull the intake off and you will have hours of reinstalling, followed by hours more of smoke testing to find the vacuum leaks. View simply is not worth the climb.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Your correct, MB23 is an important Ground for all those systems.
  9. 1 point
    You would be better served to run a voltage drop across each of the primary cables, none of them should drop more than 0.5V across their length after the connections are clean. Any greater voltage drop is a sign of corrosion inside the cable creating resistance and the voltage drop, which can only be corrected by replacing the cables.
  10. 1 point
    Check the high current connections, they are to thick ones from the battery under the seat to the starting circuit and to ground. Now that you know it's a corrosion problem then unbolt and clean them, don't just look. Check any connectors you can get access to as well.
  11. 1 point
    Clear Marker Lenses - Full proceedure with pictures All - Thought I would contribute to the board with an easy starter project that has been detailed before in text but no real picture instructions. Unfortunately, i could not upload the larger resolution images do to board constraints. NOTE - lens were ordered from bumperplugs.com > good communication and fast shipping. (Sorry for spelling errors ) Enjoy! Author roxboxxx Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Accessories Submitted 10/08/2008 06:11 PM  
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Interesting, that product is a direct rip off of the LN IMS Solution, which is patented to Jake Raby. Stand by for this to be shut down in a lawsuit...…..
  14. 1 point
    Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off. If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed. And one quart low on oil? When was the last oil change and how many miles on the oil change? It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage. As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core. Are you losing any coolant?
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    They are welded, need to grind it off from below, drill 8mm hole, fit the replacement by welding it underneath to the body. Stud should be M6, normally that would be 10mm socket for the nut. Tightening torque is 6.5ftlb.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    2003 Cayenne S So my wife's pepper had a fishbowl in the passenger rear taillight for awhile now. I guess long enough that it shorted something out as the running lights no longer have power. I have 12V going to every pin in the connector except the common orange wire for the dual bulbs in the bottom of the tail light. Brake lights, turn signal, back up light work just fine. The fuse on the passenger side panel is in proper working order. I believe there is a controller box for the taillight somewhere in the rear cargo area (not the tow controller, the actual taillight controller). I am guessing that the driver for that power line has shorted out since I cannot get 12V on that one single pin (I think it is pin 3; grey/red strip wire). I have the rear cargo area torn apart looking for the control box with no luck finding it. The cable harness branches and comes back together in so many places I cannot identify where that Grey/red stripe wire gets power from. Does anyone have knowledge, or a graphic of where that control box is? The wife is getting pissed that she can't drive the truck at night for fear of getting pulled over by the police. Any help is greatly appreciated!!! -JB
  20. 1 point
    2003 Boxster - Purchased new in December '02 with mileage from the Port to my dealer here in So Cal (17 miles). I just changed my oil at 135,000 miles yesterday. I've only performed standard maintenance and do most of it myself: Oil and Filter (Amsoil 5W-40/Mahle Filter) every 15K Front Brakes - 60K Drive Belt - 60K Front and Rear Brakes - 120K Drive Belt - 120K Clutch as not been replaced on the vehicle. I have had to have my key reprogrammed on a couple of occasions over the years. I also had to purchase the shroud that must be removed to fill the transaxle twice due to road debris. I drive the car daily here in Southern California and drive a windy mountain road called the Ortega Highway to get from Southern California Wine Country to Orange County. I seem to replace the rear tires every 25K to 35K (I dumped the Pilots on my first tire change for a better wearing tire). Fronts about every two sets of rear tires. Best car I've every owned. It's my daily driver and runs incredible. Other than rock chips on the front from Southern California freeways, you would think the car had 20K miles on it. I just got in from the store...top is down and it's a beautiful day here today. Must be back in the 80's...heading back out to grab some carne asada for the barbecue. B) All the best, Bill_SoCal (Murrieta, CA) 2003 Boxster 2006 Cayenne 2008 Cayenne S
  21. 1 point
    9) Remove the xenon ballast in the bi-xenon headlights (6 bolts) then disconect the harness, now remove the 5 pins (thin black, thin brown, red, yellow and uncovered ground wire) you only need two wires to turn on the xenon (Strong black and Strong brown) 10) Cut all the wires in the connector (bi-xenon headlight) NEAR to the connector and then use the plastic trick to remove it from the headlight. Take the Halogen connector and use this diagram: PIN 1 - Parking Light Lead (+) PIN 2 - High Beam Adjuster Supply PIN 3 - High Beam Adjuster Sensor PIN 4 - High Beam Adjuster Ground PIN 5 - EMPTY PIN 6 - Low Beam Lead (+) PIN 7 - High Beam Lead (+) PIN 8 - Additional High Beam Ground (-) PIN 9 - Turn Signal Lead (+) PIN 10 - Low Beam Ground/Parking light/Turn Signal (-) PIN 11 - EMPTY PIN 12 - EMPTY (tanks to toby http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=1189&st=20) 11) Tap every wire as this diagram says, note that inside the headlights (Halogen / bi-xenon) the grounds wires are brown and leads black 12) if you want to, remove this resistor from the bi-xenon shuttle 13) Remember to tap the bi-xenon shuttle + Auxiliary high beam whit the pins PIN 7 - High Beam Lead (+) PIN 8 - Additional High Beam Ground (-) Corner light + xenon ballast whit PIN 6 - Low Beam Lead (+) PIN 10 - Low Beam Ground/Parking light/Turn Signal (-) 14) Check all the wires, solde and insulate all wires. 15 reinstall the xenon ballast, connectors and you are done!
  22. 1 point
    Ok here we go: vehicle: Porsche Cayenne S 2004 (Halogen Headlights - No Air Suspenssions - No Headlights washers) Factory halogens headlight part no. bi-xenon headlight part no. Before start i have to remove the orange look of the headlight... Done! Things you need to know... you DON`T need the bixenon wire harness (part no. 955 631 239 10) to make the bixenon headlights work. I re-wire the internal of the bi-xenon headlight. * The only diference are: 1) bi-xenon have an extra light called (cornering) i tap this to the xenon wires, every time the xenons turn on both cornerin lights goes on. ALSO this prevent the computer detect a problem whit the low bean xenon ballast. 2) I tap the bi-xenon shuttle whit the auxiliary high beam lights, if i don`t have the xenons on and i flash the high beams, only the auxiliary and the shuttle goes on, NOT the xenon. there is a resistor in the shuttle that you can remove (more details next...) * Start 1) Take out both headlights (Please see manual for more info) 2) Take the 3 covers out 3) Remove the Autoleveling motor (remove the 3 pin harness and two bolts) from the Halogen headlight 4) You have to take out the Pin conector, to do this insert a plastic (Use an old Credit card, cut it in two and then resize it to 3cm wide) insert the plastic at the top and bottom inside the housing make sure it reach the end and then pull out the connector (This is a pain in the a..) 5) Once the connector is out start to cut each terminar as long as you can, NOTE: don`t cut the 3 pin connector in this harness you will use this whit the autoleveling motor in the bi-xenon headlight. in the end you will have this: 6) Say bye bye to the halogen headlight... don`t be panic now... 7) Remove the 3 covers in the bi-xenon headlights 8) Now remove the Autoleving motor (remove the 5 pin harness and two bolts), then install the 3 pin Autoleveling motor Side by side (Left Halogen 3 pin, Right bi-xenon 5 pin)
  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.