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I will be posting a starter repair/cleaning tutorial for the Porsche Cayenne. I bought a 2006 S a few months back and it had the startup whine that I believe is common to this vehicle. I have replaced the old starter with a Chinese $130 job, but I don't trust that the starter will last. I was amazed that no one had posted a DIY for this since the new Bosch starter is so **** expensive. As of right now I have most of the starter disassembled (which was not difficult except for one part that I can't figure out). As I clean and put back together I will post pics and advice. I found a few sites where you can get starter parts, mostly in Great Britain. I used a parts company called saverepair.com. Unfortunately, Bosch doesn't supply a lot of parts specific to this starter. The starter number is 0 001 125 025. Other good reference sites are aspwholesale.com, https://en.as-pl.com and this parts breakdown helped TREMENDOUSLY http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0001125025 (which wood auto was my second choice for parts but they cost a bit more.) What I could order from saverepair.com were these parts. bsx208-209 Bosch Starter Motor brushes 5.8 mm x 18mm x 14.6mm. 1 €3.60 €3.60 wsbu9016 Starter Bushing 10,08mm x 14,04mm x 9,90mm Rear bushing for Bosch,Front Bushing for Valeo D7E, and Centre for Ford Motorcraft. 1 €0.55 €0.55 wsbu9022 Starter Bushing 28,47mm x 32,30mm x 10,00mm. Front bushing used in Self-Supported Bosch starters. 1 €1.72 €1.72 wss0020 Starter Solenoid for Saab 9-3 Turbo 9-5 Turbo 900 9000 Opel Astra F Corsa A B Kadett E Vectra A B Lancia Fiat and more. 1 €18.00 €18.00 Pretty cheap parts as you can see. When I received the parts I was a bit concerned that the solenoid wouldn't work (I basically picked it by cross referencing starters that were close to the number range and had the same type of connectors). This solenoid is a bit larger than the old one, but the screw holes match up perfectly. I have never replaced bushings or brushes before, so this will also be an adventure I'm sure. On a side note, I REALLY wanted to replace the main bearings on the starter, but there are a few things I can't figure out. There is a part called the bendix that has the gear at the end that also holds the bearings. It is also attached to the stationary gear and a spiral gear shaft. I can't figure out how it all separates. If I did, I could just replace the entire bendix with the bearings on it. I'll see if I can attach a pick of what I'm talking about. If I can't get them separated I think it will be fine as the bearings still turn. I believe the major points of wear on the starter is the bushings. There is wiggle and play on the shafts on the bushings, which is probably why the starter was whining. Stay tuned! One more thought on removing the starter itself. There are write-ups for that so I won't delve, I will say, it is a relatively easy job of removing parts to get to it, but it does take a lot of time. I was able to remove the starter also without disconnecting coolant lines. I also added a pic of me after ripping the engine apart, with a much rewarded pipe blend called "quiet nights" (completely irrelevant to the post, ha!).

My Porsche is a 1999 996 C2 Cabriolet. The convertible top compartment lid (the “lid”) is attached to the body via two hinges which each have two arms. The front arm on the left hinge was broken, so I replaced the entire hinge, as replacement arms are not available. Here is the step by step process of how I did it :(I had a bunch of great photos with this article, but for some reason they did not copy and paste with the article) (I'm what you might call "format impaired".) : Tools needed: Flat Head Screw Driver 10mm Box Wrench T-30 Torx Bit 13mm Socket Short Socket Extension Electrical Tape Parts Needed: Replacement Hinge Part #996-561-907-02 (Left side) Replacement Seal Part#996-561-904-00 (“Cabrio Plate” in Porsche terminology) 1. Open the top partially so that the top is open about half way and the lid is in the fully open position. 2. Disconnect the cables that keep the rear-most part of the top secure to the car. There is one cable per side. Push the cable inward (toward the center line of the car) to release it from the ball connection. Release both cables. 3. Let the top move forward toward the closed position and push the window section up and out of the way. 4. Use the flat-head screw driver to remove the 4 plugs that keep the rear carpet in place. Remove the carpet, starting at the top and working it around the trim. 5. Once the carpet is out, follow the lid stop light wire down and disconnect it. It simply unplugs. 6. Release the wire from fastening elements (Porsche terminology) on the rear arm of the left hinge. 7. Mark the location of both left and right hinges in relation to the lid, then use the 10mm wrench to remove the 2 nuts securing each hinge to the lid. Prior to removing any parts, cover the drain hole below the hinge with a paper towel to prevent any small bits from falling into it. Once broken loose, they can be turned by finger. (This is probably better done with the assistance of a helper to support the lid, but can be accomplished by one person working alone by removing the rear nuts first and supporting the lid in place with one hand while removing the front nut on each side with the other hand.) Remove the lid from the car by lifting it up off the hinge. 8. (For the left hinge, only.) Remove the plastic fasteners for the lid stop light wire from the hinge for reuse on the replacement hinge. These both just clip on and can be easily remove with needle nosed pliers. 9. Remove the additional flap for reuse with the replacement hinge. The flap is removed by pushing the locking lever forward, then pulling the flap backwards and pulling downwards out from the underside of the hinge top. 10. Undo the motor drive from the hinge rear arm by removing the 2 Torx screws with the T-30 Torx bit. 11. Disconnect the motor drive push rod from the front locking hook at the front of the hinge by releasing the small clip retaining it. It should come off by releasing the locking tab slightly and pushing down at the same time. 12. Remove the motor drive body from the body of the hinge by removing the 2 Torx screws with the T-30 Torx bit. It’s not necessary to remove the pin with the flat head slot on it in order to remove the motor drive from the hinge. It may take a little rocking, but the part should come right off without much effort. 13. To give more play in the hydraulic line to the motor drive to be able to get it well out of the way, with the flat head screwdriver release the tie securing the line to the bottom of the compartment. This just pops off and presses back onto a threaded retainer. 14. Move the motor drive out of the way and with the 13mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt attaching the body of the hinge to the body of the car. The 2 nuts are clearly visible, but the bolt is concealed behind a plug in the trim piece covering the front of the hinge. To access the bolt, remove the plug with the flathead screwdriver. (Be careful not to drop the socket or the bolt behind the trim piece as fishing them back out may be a challenge.) Once the nuts and bolt are removed, the hinge can be gently removed from behind the trim piece by pulling up on the back of the hinge and rotating the entire hinge about 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling up and back while gently prying up on the trim pice with the other hand. (This is probably the hardest part of the entire procedure.) 15. Adhere the seal to the back of the new hinge replicating the position of the old seal on the old hinge. Clean up around the openings in the body panel to remove debris left behind from the old seal. Remove the backing film from the seal before installing the hinge. Make sure the contact surfaces of the hinge and body are not adhered over by the seal. Installing the new hinge is the reverse of the removal procedure: Work the front of the hinge back behind the trim piece; Attach the hinge to the car body with the 2 13mm nuts and the 13mm bolt and torque to 7.5 ftlb.(I used the electrical tape to temporarily secure the bolt to the socket and the socket to the extension to ensure I didn’t drop either down behind the trim piece.); Attach the motor drive to the hinge body with the 2 long T-30 Torx screws and torque to 7.5 ftlb.; Attach the motor drive to the rear hinge arm with the 2 short T-30 Torx screws and torque to 7.5 ftlb.; Reconnect the motor drive pushrod to the lock hook at the front of the hinge with the small clip; Re-secure the hydraulic line tie in the bottom of the compartment; Attach the brake light wire fasteners to the rear arm of the new hinge; Reattach the additional flap by inserting it onto the pins on the underside of the hinge and pulling it forward then pulling the locking lever backward until it locks; Install the lid, leaving the 10 mm nuts slightly loose and press the stop light wire into the plastic fasteners and plug it back into the connection; Reinstall the carpet; Reattach the rear roof cables; Next align the lid, so it will close properly aligned with the body. Using the marks made at the beginning of the process should make this a bit easier.

Posted this on the 986 forum, thought I'd share it here... here's the link to the 986forum.com post in case there might be any relevant discussions 986 forum DIY