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I recently replaced the coolant pipes in my car. I needed to do the job myself because there was simply no way I was going to shell out anywhere from $1500 to $3500 in labor to have it done by the dealership or an independent shop. Plus, having read about the job, I knew they would be tearing through a ton of stuff and I really feared the "oh, it also needs this" scam. I did a LOT of research on the various forums before undertaking this job. Reading and printing out anything I thought was useful information. I would highly encourage anyone reading this to do the same. Fortunately, I was not in the position that the pipes simply failed and dumped all of the coolant. I just had a semi-slow leak… dropping about a gallon of coolant every two to three weeks. So, I had time to order the parts and prepare. Prior to doing this the most complicated thing I had done myself was change the oil, replacing the brake pads and swapping out some plastic bits in the car. I had absolutely no prior mechanic experience whatsoever. However, I do work in IT, and am by nature a very technical person (I'm sure every mechanic reading this just rolled their eyes). My job is troubleshooting very complex problems on very large networks, and I think that experience probably lent itself to a successful outcome here. I'm also patient, and that is critical to getting this job done. I will say that I now have a much greater appreciation for mechanics and their skill set. This was hard. I want to caution anyone reading this that this is a BIG job and it will take a long time. My goal in writing this is so that my fellow Cayenne owners can be spared a lot of the mistakes I made and be better prepared than I was. I will say I am relieved to have this done. I feel a ton better about my car now that I don't need to worry as much about some catastrophic failure hitting me unexpectedly. One rule that I really appreciated was to only place metal on metal when working (until you actually get to removing the pipes). This prevents you from breaking plastic or tearing rubber with something metal. Trust me, pay attention to that rule. I am breaking this down into tasks, because I think it's easier to follow that way. This is how I did it. I am sure there are other ways that may even be easier, but this worked for me and my schedule. I ended up working 4-6 hours at a stretch in the garage with breaks every couple of hours. Step 1: Contribute to this forum I have absolutely no affiliation with this forum whatsoever other than I am a contributing member. The advice on this forum has personally saved me thousands of dollars, and being in IT I know the time and money it takes to run a site like this. So, contribute to the cause. However, there is a second reason to contribute, and that's to get the Porsche TSBs. The TSB for this job contains some diagrams that give you a better idea how all the replacement parts go in to place, and I thought that was handy to have. As an aside, I searched some other issues in the TSBs and found answers to some things the dealership didn't even know… such as there being a $33 replacement latch for my armrest. They wanted to sell me a whole new armrest for $750. Step 2: Obtain the Parts I looked around on the Internet and called some local sources and found a dealership that provided the parts for $550, and that included two gallons of coolant shipped to my door. To me, that was a fair price, and when I received the parts I really thought it was a fair price... there's a lot of quality stuff in there. I'm sure there may be cheaper 3rd party sources. I would just be sure they include all gaskets and such that don't necessarily need to be replaced, but should be replaced if you're tearing everything apart. Once you get the parts, pull them out of the box and examine them. Look at the pics in the forum and look at the TSBs. Get a feel for what you are replacing. Step 3: Verify you have the tools I found the following tools very handy to have, and frankly, necessary. I suggest going to your local auto parts store for most of them and get mechanic grade tools. Socket Wrench 3" Socket Extension 6" Socket Extension Metric Socket Set Torx Socket Set (think of this as a "male" Torx Socket set, you will need #27 & #40) E-Torx Socket Set (think of this a "female" Torx Socket set) Screwdriver that accepts interchangeable bits (there are times this is easier than a socket wrench) Torx Bit Set (Specifically you need a #27 and #40, I just bought a set) Locking Long Nose Pliers (6" is fine, no need for anything bigger) Regular set of pliers Wrench Set (somewhat optional) Real flat head screwdrivers Very long flat head screwdriver (this came in handy a lot) Needle Nose Pliers Small Chisel Set Hammer Tin snips Safety Glasses Mechanics Gloves One of those extension things with a magnet on the end One of those extension things with a mirror on the end WD-40 Some all-purpose grease, like White Lightning Baggies to store the screws in Masking tape/Painters Tape to cover up any exposed openings Old Bath Towels (used to protect the car) Good flashlight Lint free rags Shop Vac Two gallons of distilled water Drain pan (needs to hold 4 gallons) Shop lights A small block of wood, about 2" x 4" x ¾" A radio playing energetic music of your choice Advil and Tylenol Hope and a prayer (optional but doesn't hurt) Step 4: Book the Time I know some people say you can have this job done in less than 8 hours, but being a beginner this took me much longer. If I took out all the time running back and forth to the store for tools and such, and had a guide like the one I am writing, I still think it would have taken 10-12 hours. I ended up removing all of the engine covers on one weekend night, and then doing the actual job the following weekend. I then drove the car for a week with the new pipes and finally put all the engine covers back on over the weekend (I cleaned the covers and the engine thoroughly with a damp rag at the same time to pretty it up a bit). You don't really need to do it that way, but that split the work up a bit. I work in an office in front of a PC all day; I'm not used to working in a hot garage for 8-10 hours at a time... I'm a skinny computer geek : ) When I did the work, I draped some old bath towels over the sides and front of the car to protect it. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up the paint on a zipper or with a dropped tool/screw. Step 5: Remove the Engine Covers There are really two parts to this. You have the decorative covers over the actual engine, and then you have the covers that border the engine. You'll want to remove all of the covers around the border first. There are five of them in total. They all have these little black plastic plugs that you just turn 90 degrees. They should just pop up at that point, but you might have to give them a little lift with a screw driver. While you're removing those covers you might want to pay attention to how they go together and where they slide in to place. You'll also want to remove the windshield washing fluid cap (use the masking tape to cover up the exposed hole) before you remove the cover that surrounds it. Those little things are $4.25 each from the dealership, so try not to lose them. Now you have the three silver looking decorative covers; one on each side of the engine and one towards the front middle with the engine type on it. First, you need to unbolt the two secondary air injection units. Those are the round things with the plastic covers near the back of the engine compartment. You do not need to disconnect them from anything, just unbolt them (three screws each) and then move them off to the side. It might be a good idea to get some labeled baggies to store the screws in. Once those are removed you can get to the side engine covers a little easier. The engine cover in the front middle you just lift off, just work it back and forth a little and it should pop off. Take note that there are four little plugs that fit into holes on the cover itself, you'll need to find them again when replacing it. Now remove the one on the driver's side. It's pretty easy to remove. There are four screws towards the bottom that need to be removed, and then the cover will just come off. The one on the passenger side is a bit different. You have the engine mount right in the middle of things. Assuming you have the tools, you can unscrew the engine mount and get it out of the way. That will let you get to each of the four screws easily on the cover and remove it. I wasn't so lucky here (didn't have the right tools at the time), so I just got the four screws out of the cover and ended up wedging it out. While doing that, the piece of the cover under the engine mount snapped off. I wasn't too concerned about this, because where it snapped is hidden by the engine mount. When I put everything back together I just slid it back and screwed it in. You can't tell at all that it was ever snapped in half. Step 5a: Remove Fuel Pump Fuses You'll want to check your manual (you can also download the manual from this site), but you need to remove a couple of fuses for the fuel pump. Right in front of the driver under the hood there is a small compartment. Remove the cover, and then remove a second cover to expose the fuses. Mine were fuse 14 & 15 for the fuel pump. Store them somewhere safe. Once those are removed, start your car. It will run for a few seconds and die. Congrats, you just removed most of the fuel from the fuel line. I know some people don't disconnect the fuel rail or anything, but to me that's a bad idea. I had a lot of time to try it that way and honestly I'm glad I got it out of the way. Step 6: Disconnect the fuel line The fuel line is near the back center, it's just one tube running to the fuel rail. You'll disconnect it by using a wrench and a pair of pliers. You're unscrewing the part on the left (the thin part) from the part on the right (the wide part) which shouldn't turn as it is part of that tube. Once unscrewed, the fuel rail is only connected to the manifold. A little residual fuel might leak out, so you might want to have a rag handy to wipe it up with. Use masking tape to cover up any exposed holes. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect the batteries now either. I didn't, but that was probably stupid. Step 7: Remove the Y-Pipe that goes to the Throttle Body This plastic Y-Pipe is right up front so it's very easy to get to. There are two flexible pipes on either side you need to remove first; just use a screwdriver to loosen the two clamps on each of them and you should be able to compress them enough to remove them. The Y-Pipe itself is attached to the throttle body via two long, plastic bolts. They have a screw head on them but they are not screws, they're more of a key. You just turn them a bit to line the key at the bottom (use a flashlight and you'll see it move as you turn it with the screwdriver) with the slot. When it's lined up, use a pair of needle nose pillars to lift it straight out. It's plastic and may be brittle, so be a little careful. You will need to remove an electric connection to the throttle body in order to get to one of them. There is a tube connected to the bottom of this y-pipe, so you can't just lift it out. It has some give to it, but not a lot… just enough to get your hand under there once you pull the y-pipe off the throttle body. You have to press the buttons on each side of the tube in order to get it off the y-pipe. Step 8: Remove Emission Tubes & Electrical Connections from Throttle Body There are two emission tubes crossing the throttle body, Porsche refers to them as "vent tubes." I know this because one snapped in half when I removed it, and the dang thing was $130 to replace. To remove them, you just need to press the clips at either side of the end of the tube together and then pull it straight out. I don't think mine had ever been removed, and in retrospect a bit of WD-40 used sparingly here might have been a good idea. I think I used too much force and that's why the small one snapped. I have read that some people have replaced this broken tube with a more generic tube from a hardware store. I just spent the $130 and did it right. There is a third tube connected to the throttle body, you just need to remove that one end of it. You will also have two electrical connections to remove. One you had to remove to get the y-pipe off in the previous step. Just remove the second one and then you're done. Step 9: Remove the Throttle Body The throttle body is connected to the manifold via four bolts. Remove those four bolts and it will come off. You sort of have to wiggle it out because of that thin metal bracket that's holding it there, but it will come out easy enough. Some people take this opportunity to clean it. You'll probably see some gunk on the back side of it on the inside. Step 9: Remove the Electrical Connections to the Fuel Injectors There are eight fuel injectors connected between the fuel rail and intake manifold. Mine were blue plastic, and there is an electrical connection running to each of them. There is a metal clip at the bottom that you just need to press up. I placed a flat head screwdriver between this clip and my index finger, and pushed up and pulled at the same time to disconnect it. Once you remove one you'll get the trick and the rest will come right off. Step 10: Remove the Intake Manifold with Fuel Rail Attached I know a lot of people have different ideas here, some people want to remove the fuel rail independently, and that was the first way I tried it. In retrospect, it's much easier to just leave it attached. There are four screws that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. I would recommend leaving these alone, especially since the one at the back on the passenger side is nearly impossible to get to. These screws are $6+ each… I know because I lost one. :P There are 10 bolts that need to be undone to remove the manifold. They don't come all the way out, they'll stay attached to the manifold. Once you loosen them enough they sort of come free and wiggle around. The one at the back on the passenger side was a bear to get to. I ended up placing the Torx Socket bit on top of it using the magnetic extension thing. I then put the 3" extension on top of it, and finally attached my socket wrench to it. I kind of built it all up I guess. I then went really, really slowly and loosened it up. Once loose, make sure to vacuum up any debris on the engine. When you pull the intake manifold off you will have eight gaping holes right down to your cylinders, you don't want anything falling in there. You can now scoot it forward a bit to get to the tubes you will need to disconnect. There are two tubes at the back of the manifold… a firm one and a flexible one. The firm one is just like the one under the y-pipe, and is easy enough to remove IF you can get enough pressure on the connector. The flexible one was just kind of stuck on mine and I left it on. You kind of have to scoot the manifold forward and angle it out, but it will come out with the fuel rail attached. You may have to remove some tubes and such from their guides or brackets. That flexible tube was long enough that I just put the whole thing on the driver's side of my engine and left it there. It didn't seem to be sitting on anything that couldn't support it. I'm sure it can be removed, but at this point in the job I was tired, hot, and just wanted to keep going. Once off, IMMEDIATELY cover up the exposed intake holes with long strips of tape. Cover them completely, and make sure they STAY COVERED. Shine a flashlight in each hole first to make sure nothing fell down there. If so, get it out as delicately as possible. Vacuum up any other debris you see. You can now see the infamous coolant pipes. Step 11: Assessment At this point, you can see the coolant pipes and should be ready for the meat of this repair. The starter is right there too… right under the leaking pipes. Brilliant, isn't it? This may not be true for you, but I had an AMAZING amount of debris in here… honestly looked like a bird had built a nest. I have no idea how it all got in there, but some where at some point tons of debris got in here, and now it was all soaked in coolant. I think my coolant leaking may have been mitigated because the wet debris probably acted as a mud and sealed everything up a bit. I vacuumed it up with a shop vac prepped for a wet cleanup. Now you need to decide if you will see this repair through or not. Once the next step is taken, there is no going back, and honestly the toughest part of this job by far is getting the old pipes out. Step 12: Drain the Remaining Coolant Your first goal is removing as much coolant from the car as you can. On the V8's, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the car, but on the turbo's you won't have one. That drain plug required an allen bit that was larger than I had on hand or could even find at a hardware store. Honestly, in retrospect I wouldn't have even bothered locating it. I'm sure there's a pipe down there you could remove, but I didn't waste time looking for. I took a tip I found on a forum, and drilled a hole right in the middle of the center coolant pipe (of three) and used a siphon with a hand pump to drain out every bit I could. I repeated this process on the larger lower pipe. DO NOT SIPHON BY USING YOUR MOUTH. Coolant is dangerous, nasty stuff. Make sure there are no animals or kids around while you are doing this. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES! Doing it this way you're going to spill a lot of coolant, but it is what it is… they've been leaking all over everything anyway. I used my shop vac to vacuum up anything I could that escaped the siphon. I've also read of people renting professional vacuum pumps to suck it all out, but again, that's more complicated than it needs to be. I did some research, and coolant is not currently controlled by the EPA for disposal, and it can't be recycled. The unofficial advice I got was to dump it in the woods and douse the area with a hose for a bit. Do not dump it down the drain or dump it where animals could readily drink it. Don't dump it in a stream. Presumably it breaks down fast enough on the ground that there isn't a long lasting effect. Step 13: Remove the Three Upper Coolant Pipes The first pipe you need to remove is the long skinny pipe with three connectors. This one is easy enough to remove, and you should have a replacement as part of the kit. One of the connectors broke off in the hole, and I had to very carefully remove the pieces. Relatively speaking this was easy compared to the rest. There is a compression ring that needs to be removed for the connection at the back of the engine, use the locking pliers to do that. Cover up the exposed holes with masking tape. You now have to remove the three upper coolant pipes. There is a bracket at the back of the engine holding the three pipes. There are also two clips attached (you'll be looking at the back side of them) to that bracket that just support a hose at the back (just has electrical connections in it, and it's probably already split so you don't have to be super careful). Pinch the connectors with a pair of needle nose pliers and they'll come off. You now have to remove three bolts from it to remove the upper half of that bracket. I removed two of them but couldn't get to the third without snapping the thing in half. Porsche was kind enough to provide a new one in the kit so I wasn't worried about it. You will now see three rubber hoses attached to the plastic pipes. They are held on to them with compression rings. Use the locking pliers on the rings to loosen them (they need to be squeezed together to loosen) and slip them back over the pipes. I did one at a time, completely removing the ring and setting it off to the side for safety. The locking pliers really excelled here. When using them, attempt to come at the ring from the top instead of the side, the grooves on the pliers will then secure the ring quite nicely. You might have to adjust the pliers a couple of time to get the right amount of the compression for the ring to move freely. With those ends free, I used the shop vac to suck out a lot more coolant. Once done, cover up the exposed holes with masking tape. Once those three ends are free, you'll need to free up the other ends. Here's the deal, they are probably going to break when you try to remove them, and probably going to snap off at the spot where they connect to the coolant reservoir. I twisted and pulled and sure enough, they snapped off. You can remove the lid of the coolant reservoir by removing several screws, a small aluminum pipe on top, and the rubber pipes towards the front of the car. The small aluminum pipe has a single screw that needs to be removed. There is probably a lot of corrosion here so you may need to use a flat head screwdriver to pry it out. Be careful, it's flexible enough to come out and get out of the way but just barely. There is a compression ring on each of the rubber pipes that is easy enough to get to, just loosen and slide it down the pipe. Suck out any coolant and cover the exposed pipes with masking tape. Once you have that lid out, you'll see the remaining plastic bits in the holes. It's difficult to move, but those plastic bits are just in there with pressure, they aren't glued or anything. I used a small chisel and the hammer to break them out. As I got to the o-rings I pulled on those with needle nose pliers and in one instance the whole chunk came out. I also used a lot of WD-40 to work everything out. What you don't want to do is take any risk of chiseling into the metal of the lid, so be careful. This is all about removing the plastic material. Each bit you remove gets you one step closer to freeing up enough pressure to get the remaining bit out. Once it's all clean, leave it off to the side while removing the big pipe. Step 14: Removing The Big Pipe This one is tough. Make sure you're rested, well fed, and cooled down a bit. If you're aggravated already, walk away and relax a bit. You will need to break this pipe into two pieces. I used a boring bit to drill a big hole in the top, and then used tin snips to cut chunks out until I got it in two parts. Again, I used a shop vac to suck out any remaining coolant as I went along. Really, anything will work… you could even use a chisel to break it out. It's coming out one way or the other, no need to be pretty about it. Once it's in two pieces, you can probably rotate the two halves apart. Use WD-40 generously on the ends first though, and give it a bit to work in there. Regardless, when I went to pull out the two ends, they ended up snapping off… leaving their end pieces in the hole. If you read through the three forums, different people use different techniques to try and avoid this with mixed results. This is the worst case scenario though, so lucky for you I fought through it and have plenty of advice. Assuming your pipe broke off as mine did, you will see a metal ring in each end, with black plastic between it and your car. That metal ring was an inner support ring for the original pipe and needs to be removed. This is a violent procedure. IMPORTANT: I cut up some lint free cloths and stuffed one into each end as far as I could so that any material from the following procedure wouldn't go any further. Once done with the procedure below, I vacuumed up anything I could and then removed those cloths. Again, use WD40 a LOT. I sprayed and sprayed as a worked, and I think it helped. READ THIS CAREFULLY: Removing the plastic and metal ring from each end is all about removing material. You are trying to get as much plastic out as possible. If you get the ring out first, great, but it's not 100% necessary. The plastic is what needs to come out, and you need to get it out from all around it. In addition to the plastic, there are two o-rings in there, so they are just adding more friction preventing this from moving. You'll get bits of that out as you work, and that's good. Eventually, you get enough bits out that the rest will just fall out. Use a hammer and chisel to collapse the metal ring on the top and sides as much as possible. I used to the chisel to cut in to it a bit too. Once I got it that far, I switched to the long screwdriver, hammering the end of it into the plastic over, and over, and over again. I pried as much as I could and worked out bits of material. This took a long time, but sometimes you'll get a big chunk out and that will give you renewed hope. Again, this is all about material removal. Keep telling yourself that. Every bit you get out makes this easier. Once you get enough plastic out, you'll see the metal ring move a bit as you work. This is a great sign and you are almost done. Ultimately, you should be able to pry it out with the screwdriver. NOTE: When working you want to work as much towards the metal ring as possible. You want to avoid scraping the inside of the hole where your new pipes will go. I did scrape up mine a bit, it's unavoidable, but regardless my new pipes don't leak. When you go to remove the bits closest to you, you're working somewhat blind and it is hard. This part almost broke me, but I used a mirror to check and recheck my work as I went along. Bright lights help here too. Honestly, I really can't say enough how hard this part was and how long it took in comparison to everything else. It was the part that had me the most worried, but I got through it. Once it's all out, remove the cloths from inside the pipe and vacuum a lot. Now is the time to clean stuff up too, as you're about to put the new pipes in. As a best practice, you should clean up the inside of those holes. I used some steel wool; I know some people used scotch bright or even buffing pads. I didn't go overboard with this; I just want to get any grime out of there. Step 15: Install the New Big Pipe At this point you should be elated. You're through the worst. Installing these pipes are a bit difficult, but not bad. If they are not already on there, put the O-Rings on the small pipe. Use the White Lightning grease or whatever you bought and coat the inside of the hole on the engine and the outside of the pipe. Use it liberally. A bit of WD40 wouldn't hurt either. Press it into the hole at the back of the engine and do your best to get it all the way in. This is where a small block of wood and a hammer come in handy; you can use those to tap it in the rest of the way. Do not put the rubber sleeve on it. For the big pipe, install the o-rings and lube everything up good with the grease, both the hole it goes in and the pipe itself. You will also need to grease up the end the rubber part goes on and the other end of the short pipe that the rubber sleeve will slip over. Place the tightening rings over the rubber sleeve as well. Slide the rubber sleeve as far as it will go over the pipe. Push the pipe into the hole, I found a twisting action worked well. I also used my metal screwdriver against the bottom of the engine bay as a lever to slide it in the rest of the way (it required a lot of pressure). You then need to rotate it to line it up with the short end of the pipe. You'll slide the rubber sleeve over it and then tighten up the two rings. NOTE: Be sure to rotate the rings as far down as possible so that the screw does not interfere with the three pipes you're about to place on top of it. The new big pipe should be in place, and you're now done with the hardest part of this job. Step 16: Install the Three Pipes You'll want to put the lid back on the coolant reservoir (replacing the seals Porsche included with the kit), reattach the pipes and tighten up the screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS. I snapped one clean off. Make sure they're tight, but don't put all your muscle into it. Once on, you are ready to slide those pipes in. You do not need to put the lower bracket at the back on first; I did it after installing the pipes. Again, make sure everything is lubed up well so that any points of friction are well covered. Slide the pipes in. I used by long screwdriver again as a lever to apply the necessary pressure. On both these pipes and the big pipe it looked like I could have gone another 16th of an inch, but nothing leaks so I guess it was far enough. Put the bracket on at the back before you attach the hoses. You'll use your locking pliers again to attach the compression rings. With the bracket in place it is obvious how far up the hoses go. You'll put the upper bracket on, using the spacers for the screws and screwing it down tight. Don't forget to attach the two brackets that hold that electrical cable in place. Not a big deal if you do forget. Step 17: Install Final Pipe Now install that skinny pipe. This one is easy. Don't forget about the small compression ring that goes at the far end. Everything else just clips in. Step 18: Assess Your Work Look over everything and make sure it all looks right. At this point you should have a sealed coolant system. Check all your connections and make sure everything is solid. At this point you're home free, and you should be feeling pretty darn good. Step 19: Fill Up Coolant I use a 50/50 water to coolant ratio… so I mixed everything up with what I had and filled up the coolant tank. Once it was full, I left it overnight and checked in the morning for any fresh coolant. I was totally beat from a long day of working on it and thought putting everything back together fresh in the morning was a good idea. Step 20: Put Everything Back Together You tore it apart, now put it back together. I cleaned everything as I went, so now my engine looks great and I think that's a good idea. You don't need to go overboard, just use some lightly damp, lint free rags and wipe everything down. Porsche should have also provided new seals that go on the bottom of the intake manifold. I replaced mine dutifully, and I am glad I did. The old ones just looked worn out, no way they weren't leaking. Putting everything together is pretty straightforward once you've taken it apart. Just be careful and make sure you get all electrical connections and hoses in back on securely and in the right places (hard to mess that up). Also make sure you remove every bit of masking tape as you go. Final Thoughts I am very, very glad I did this project for two reasons. One, it saved me a ton of money and two, I now know tons more about the engine. Doing this project means I could replace my fuel injectors, spark plugs, injection coils and a host of other things when and if I have to. I know where the throttle body is, and if it's sticking I know where to go to clean it. If I need to replace the starter, I know where it is and how to get to it. I can now take my car on trips without fear of a massive coolant leak. This was the last "major" Cayenne defect for me that needed to be fixed. The water pump & drive shaft were already replaced. With 116,000 miles, I have quite a bit of faith in my car not having a catastrophic failure (knock on wood). At the end of the day, I'm pretty proud of myself for getting this all accomplished, and I hope I've saved some other poor soul a ton of time by writing all of this down. If it does help you out, please reply to this post and let me know.

On occasion during the most humid months of the year, the air coming out of the vents of my nearly 8-year-old car would smell a little 'off.' Since the a/c condensation was draining just fine and the odor wasn't ever-present, it wasn't a major concern to me. However, surfing the web I found a variety of A/C refresh kits that seemed worth a try, if for no reason other than to experiment and see if it was any benefit. But, no good deed goes unpunished. There are a variety of kits out there, some seem OE but most are aftermarket. I found them to have so much in common that I began to think they were made by only one or two manufacturers. The kits I was considering are two products: 1) a foaming spray that you inject into the evaporator housing through the condensation drain, and 2) a spray that you empty into the external air intake while changing the HVAC settings. The kits state or imply that they will clean the evaporator of crud that comes from dirt, mold, mildew, etc. and kill whatever causes odors in the venting. As I mentioned, the kits seemed nearly identical to each other so I bought one based on convenience at a local parts supplier for about $18. For another point of reference, there is a Toyota kit, part number 00289-ACRKT, that you can find here for instance. The product I used was the following: Note: This attempt to clean an HVAC system was for my particular 2003 986S. Other vehicles may be different and there are safety risks involved in doing mechanical or electrical work on a vehicle. What's presented here is a general overview of my DIY project, not a complete step-by-step set of instructions. Please obtain, understand, and follow the necessary repair and installation procedures in order to work safely, avoid damaging anything, and achieve a safe result. Preparation steps: I raised the vehicle up onto four(4) jack stands. Then I loosened or removed numerous underbody panels to expose the area under the passenger side floor pan. The location of the condensation drain is identified by an arrow in the photo below: First use the larger can of "evaporator foaming cleaner." You can read the instructions on the can in one of the photos above. I had to use another piece of tubing between the tapered nozzle and the condensation drain because the drain tube is not flexible and wouldn't hold the nozzle. That should have been the first indication to stop. Notice the grommet around the drain tube in the photo above and how the tube is inconveniently situated between the hot water supply/return for the heater core. As I was trying to force the tubing onto the drain, I pushed the drain tube and grommet into the passenger compartment. I knew it was going to be a pain to put it back, and it was. I had to remove the umbrella trim along the passenger-side door threshold, loosen the floor carpeting, and shove my arm under the carpet to reinstall it. Photos of the attachment and foam injection below: The foam went in, it seemed to sit for a while, it liquefied a bit, and then it drained out. The photo below was taken at a moment just as it was starting to drain: The liquid in the bucket was mostly clear, with a little particulate matter--nothing worth photographing. It didn't have much of a smell; it was slightly medicinal, like disinfectant. Following the instructions on the can, the next step is to use the "a/c intake refresher." Take out the pollen filter and spray into the air intake. You are supposed to change the vent settings between spraying intervals so that the mist runs through different duct work. Again, it has a slight disinfectant smell--pleasant but not flowery and not too strong. Not too bad, right?... Well, I was too preoccupied with the camera to realize what was happening inside the car: After all the effort for something that wasn't really necessary… I had to laugh. I was doing this process as I was preparing the car for winter storage. It was about 40° F (4° C) in my garage. Obviously, a lot of the foam didn't liquefy and drain. If I were to do this again, I would warm up the HVAC system beforehand, or just do the whole process at a higher ambient temperature. I'd also let the evaporator core drain longer (a lot longer) before doing the 2nd can. The photos above are the worst of it; only a little came out of the other vents. I blasted the system for a long time after that and it cleaned up without a problem--no damage to any surfaces. A few days ago I fired up the car for the season. No issues. Live and learn and pass it on. --Brian

1.) Un-screw the one phillips head screw at top center of side air intake... 2.) The molded air duct and the intake grill are still attached by three delicate plastic tabs at the three points... The best way to remove this is gently insert your fingers through the grills into the intake at the points circled in red and gently try to free the tabs... All three points come forward towards you, but if one is stuck or gets caught it will break... 3.) Inside the drivers side air duct you will find a snorkle... The snorkle is added to most US cars for noise restrictions. Now this piece is attached by no screws or tabs, but it most likely will give you some troubles removing... The best way is to remove this, just grab a hold of the long snorkle (not the small dish on the end)... Now wiggle it from left to right and vice versa while pulling out towards you. This works, but might take a little effort. 4.) This is what the intake is going to look like after the snorkel is removed... Just carefully insert the three tabs back into their points... Make sure that all three are tightly in by pushing the airduct cover (not the grill)... Insert your 1 screw into top center of cover and you are done.

Rotary Switch to Manually Turn on the Cooling Fans Porsche 996/986 So the rotary switch has a fan symbol that lights up the same colour as the rest of the buttons in the car when the headlights are turned on. To turn on the low speed fans, rotate the dial up and the symbol lights up blue. Turn it down for the high speed (and the engine fan as well) and it turns red. The automatic function of the fans is not affected by this at all. In fact, the indicator lights will turn on when the car switches the fans on, so you can tell when the high or low speeds are on, which is cool. So the function of the rotary switch will be: -when at rest and headlights/parking lights are not on, fans are not on and the indicator light is not on. -when the dial is turned up, low speed fans are on and the indicator light illuminates blue. -when the dial is turned down, the high speed fans are on along with the engine bay fan and the indicator light illuminates red. -when the headlights/parking lights are on, the indicator lights orange. We will need 1 RGB LED, 1 diode, 1 resistor of 500 ohms, 1 resistor of 1000 ohms, 1 resistor of 5000 ohm (this may be different depending on the LED you use) Here is the wiring diagram that we will follow to make this work. First you need the headlight level switch. It was available only on the 996.1 cars and is part number: 996 613 230 01 You need to disassemble it, as all the circuitry inside will be replaced, and the headlight symbol removed. Remove the circuit board now, as it will be replaced with one we will make from scratch. Remove the LED as well and all wiring inside. Now you need to make a new circuit board to replace the old one. You need to visit an electronics store and get Ferric Chloride and copper clad board. Cut a piece of board to match the size of the old circuit board. Cut it roughly with a saw and then use a file to get it down to exactly the shape and size you need. Peel off the protective film and then lightly sand off the bluish film off the board until you have only copper exposed. Now you need to draw on the circuit onto the copper with a sharpie. I did it backwards, but it is soo much easier if you sand off the blue film and then draw the circuit. The chip will now go into the Ferric Chloride. The liquid will eat away all of the copper except for the parts you drew in sharpie, as the liquid does not react with it, leaving the copper underneath protected. When you take it out of the Ferric Chloride, you will have your chip. Clean off the sharpie with rubbing alcohol. Now you will drill 3 small holes in the bottom of the chip for wires to attach to. You will need to solder in bare solid wire into each of the holes. One contact will be for high speed, one for low speed and one for ground. Here you see the chip in place with the wires leading out of it. Each wire will need to be soldered onto a contact in the switch that leads to a pin. Now for the LED. You need a frosted 5mm tri colour RGB LED with a common cathode. The ground for the LED will go to pin 4 in the switch - same as the grounds for the high and low speed for the fans. The lead for the green will go to the 3rd pin. There is not enough pins for everything, so you will need to add more. I did this by putting a noche in the base of the switch to allow a couple wires to run out of the switch to another connector. I just picked up a male/female 2 pin connector from ebay like the one below. You will need resistors for these LEDs. Green is much stronger than red, so I used a 500 ohm resistor in series for the red LED, and 5000 ohm resistor in series for the green LED. 1000for the blue. You will need to test the light intensity and how the colours mix to get you the orange you need using different strengths of resistors to match the rest of your buttons. There is not much room inside the switch, so I placed my resistors and the diode outside the switch, which you can see here. Next is to make the fan symbol. Sand off the headlight symbol from the indicator piece. I had a tiny fan laser cut by a shop for me onto vinyl, which I then placed on the piece and painted black. Removed the vinyl, and now there is a perfect symbol of a fan that the LEDs will illuminate. Place back in the switch and now put it all back together. Switch is done. Now to wire everything up to the switch. The diode has to go where you see it in the diagram. It allows current only in one direction. Again, there is no room for it in the switch, so I have it in the wiring outside the switch. The diode will allow current to flow from the power supply for green LED to the red LED (this will make orange). You may need to test different resistor values to get the right colour of orange. Now to make it all work. We will need four 12v relays. I installed all 4 relays in the relay tray above the fuse box to make it look as OEM as possible. But they could go anywhere. You will need 4 relay plug with the metal connectors if you do what I did. Part number is 928 610 511 00. You need to locate the 2 low speed fan relays and the 2 high speed. The low speed relays are numbers 19 and 21, while the high speed relays are 20 and 22. Disconnect the battery in the car. First remove the fuse box panel. It is held on by 4 screws. You can then just pull it out. The relay box is above it. It is best to remove the relay box. It is held in place with a single nut, and clipped in on the opposite end. Flip the relay tray around so you have access to the back. I removed plugs that were in my way. Now use the wiring diagram from earlier to make the wiring connections you need. The proper routing and connections of the new wiring is all there in the diagram. The relays labeled as normally open or normally closed are the new relays you are adding. The purpose of these relays is to turn on and off the appropriate LED colour to indicate whether high or low is on, and to turn off the orange (if headlights are switched on) when fans are in operation. If you want the engine bay fan to also turn on with the high speed fans, then you will need to run a wire splitting off from the wire runs from pin 85 from relay 22 all the way to the back behind the rear passenger. There is another relay box there. I removed the rear quarter interior panel to help with running the wire as well as the bonnet/engine cover release panel trim. But you don’t have to, just tuck the wire in. Remove the carpet in the back to expose the relay box. It is on the right and is held in place with a nut in the centre and 2 screws on the right. You can see the wire I ran from the front. Flip it over and find relay number 8. You want to tap into pin 85 of that relay. Put it all back together. Now wire up the switch. The wire from pin 85 from relay 22 goes to pin 1 of your plug for the switch. The wire from pin 85 from relay 21 goes to pin 2. The wire from pin 87a from the normally closed low speed relay (see diagram) goes to pin 3. The wire from pin 87 from the normally open low speed relay (see diagram) goes to the connector you added to the switch - green wire The wire from pin 87 from the normally open high speed relay (see diagram) goes to the connector you added to the switch - red wire From the switch, we have a ground wire. This can go to any ground point in the dash. I found a spot close to where the switch goes and grounded it there. There is one last wire, and this is to get power to the red/green LED when the headlights are on. You can wire this to any switch in the car that illuminates. I took power for this from the intermittent wiper in the dash for power. Now with everything wired up, this should work. With the car on, but no headlights and the switch is at rest, there should be nothing. When the headlights are turned on, you should have the fan symbol light up in orange. Turn on the high speed fans, and you should have the engine fan and the 2 front fans on and the symbol should be red. On low speed, only the 2 front fans will be on at low speed and the symbol should light up in blue. The car will still turn on the fans automatically, and when it does, the fan symbol will also light up to let you know the car has turned on the fans at either high or low.

One of the problems that I see with many 996/986/997/987 owners complaining about is a lumpy or erratic idle and sometimes sluggish acceleration. I have a quick cure for this problem. In fact, this cure will work for any car that has a throttle body. The issue is that over time a sludgy gunk will build up in the throttle body where the throttle butterfly opens and closes. This gunk will eventually change the airflow characteristics of the gap between the butterfly and the throttlebody which will cause the erratic idle. In addition, this gunk can cause the butterfly the stick as it opens which will effect acceleration. The car's DME will compensate for this buildup over time, but if it gets too thick, then the "Throttle Adaption" will reach its limit, and will throw a code. Many times people think that it is the MAF that is bad, when it is just a dirty throttle body. Notice that the butterfly valve is slightly cracked open. This is for the idle airflow, and that crack can get clogged because of the gunk buildup. The solution is to remove the air cleaner box for access to the throttle body, and simply clean the throttle body with spray carburetor cleaner. Open the butterfly valve with your hand, and wipe out all of the gunk on the backside of the valve, and the inside of the throttle body. You will see a dark brown ring inside the throttle body. This is the buildup you want to remove. Take a rag, wet it with carburetor cleaner, and wipe out the gunk. Be sure to get the edge and the back side of the butterfly valve as well. You will know when you are done because the surfaces that you are cleaning are polished, and easy to see if there is stuff left on them. Here is a picture of what your throttle body should look like after it is cleaned. Notice how shinny the inside is. Don't worry if you spray too much in the engine, when you fire the engine up, all of that stuff will burn off in the combustion chamber. Where does the gunk come from? It is residue from the crankcase vent opening that is right there behind the butterfly. The reason it is there is because there is high vacuum there that will suck the crankcase oil vapors back into the combustion process of the car. Over time oil solids will accumulate there and will form a sticky lip around the opening. This cleaning should be part of your 30,000 mile maintenance as a minimum. However if you have never had your throttle body cleaned, try doing this weekend. You will be amazed at how much better your car runs.

About 3 weeks back I started getting a CEL with a Code 0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit. Upper Limit Exceeded. After clearing the code it kept coming back within a day or two and the car stalled on two occasions. Based on research on the forums, this seemed very much in line with sensor failures on 955's and a DIY existed for these model years, but not the 957. My 957 now has around 120k miles, and the engine runs incredibly well, aside from this one recent anomaly. I ordered a replacement sensor, from Pelican Parts which arrived the next day (very impressive service) :lowdown: thanks Pelican Crankshaft Sensor Brand: Bosch Note: Engine Type: 4.8L 4806cc V8 (3.78x3.27; 96.0x83.0) (2008 Porsche Cayenne S Sport Utility) Part #: 0-261-210-292-INT As there was no info available on this DIY for a 957 so I'm hoping the following will help others get this done easily when needed, and in particular so you can save the 2 hours extra it took me to figure out where and how everything was located, as well as how to get to it. Which I did while I was waiting for the new part to arrive However once that research was done, the actual job of replacing the sensor took about 45 minutes. The main challenge is that the connector is difficult to access as it is behind and below the fuel pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the car. Even with an inspection scope it was difficult to locate. It was only once I looked from under the car that I could see where it was located. Also the connector plug is attached to a rectangular section of plastic tubing/conduit on the wiring harness, by a clip which is very rigid. After multiple attempts to release this clip it broke off. I think give the location it gets very hot and over the years becomes brittle. You should remove the engine compartment trim at the rear of the engine for better access. I also borrowed a few pics of an engine on the web to mark the location: I also found that removing the harness from the engine made it easier to get my hands around the connector to get the two ends separated. Once you have the old sensor disconnected, attach the new one and and tape the end of the new sensor tip with some painters tape just for protection and slowly lower it down into the engine compartment. It will end up either side of the primary cat where it is easily accessible from below. Also let the old sensor cable drop into the engine bay as you will then extract it from below. Now move to underneath the vehicle. I only needed to jack up the front left of the vehicle (jack stand + jack for extra safety). No wheels need to be removed. Do not jack up the car before dealing with the connector at the top of the engine bay as it will make it difficult to reach. Between the connector and the sensor, the cable is secured at 3 locations. See pictures below. The cable is pretty easy to remove and secure from below the vehicle and it can be seen and accessed without removing any of the under trays (depending on your level of flexibility). The lowest retaining clip is a push in type retaining clip where you simply press the cable into the tensioned clip. The two upper retaining clips are circular in shape and hinge open and closed. With a built of gentle persuasion you can pull them open and the cable comes out easily. I could not get the uppermost one in the pics but it is similar to the 2nd one shown in the pics. The sensor is held in place with a single torx T5 screw. Once you have the old sensor off you can pull it out and put it aside and attach the new one. I suggest attaching the sensor first and the attaching the cable to the retaining clips. Very rewarding and inexpensive fix, and everything is back to normal. No more codes and the car runs beautifully!

I have a 2005 Carrera S with 68,000 miles. I recently started having problems with a large white cloud appearing only at start-up and some poor throttle response at low rpms. I had also noticed for the last few months that the oil consumption seemed a faster than usual for my car. After a little reading I found that it might be due to the AOS. My Durametric program was giving some RKAT and misfire codes, but the check engine light (CEL) was not on - of course, after I checked the codes, the CEL came on. With the engine running, I tried to remove the oil filler cap but couldn't - I would have had to pry it off the tube. So it really did seem to the AOS. Apparently when the AOS goes bad, it causes a high vacuum in the crankcase (hence can't pull off the oil filler cap) and this pulls oil into the recirculation system that drains into the intakes (hence the white cloud at start-up and high oil consumption). I looked around and found some information on Rennlist discussing AOS replacement on a 996 (http://forums.rennli...labor-time.html). People discuss dropping the transmission or lowering the engine to help with this. I'm my case only removing the engine would have helped. The hose clamps are pointed towards the back of the car so I would not have been able to do this from the transmission side. You should know that the 997 S uses a different AOS than the non-S 997 or the 996. Based on all this information I ordered from Zim's (www.allzim.com) AOS for ~$150 3 intake gaskets (~$8) (didn't use these in the end) one throttle body gasket (~$7) as well as a new serpentine belt, and all three idler pulleys (pullies?) because I thought I would do this at the same time. Tools are shown and with some listed at the bottom. First, the pre-picture . Obviously I have a fabspeed cold air kit. The red color sticks out like a monkey-butt, but I like the sound. The AOS on the 997s is under the passenger side intake manifold about halfway to the front of the engine. So some things have to come off... the air box needs to come out, there is a good air filter replacement tutorial here on Renntech. This picture shows the air box partially out and rotated over so that you can see the connections. I also zoom in here just to show the vacuum connection on the solenoid, one of the electrical connections on the solenoid (already disconnected), and the mass air flow (MAF) sensor connector. Just ignore the broken wire clip. Some gremlin must have done that... Now the throttle body has to come off - there are four E-10 bolts, and the bottle left one has a bracket that hold a little rubber bumper attached to it. Only the four E-10 bolts need to come out. There is also an electrical connector at the top (runs from left to right) and if you squeeze it just right on a tuesday with a full moon, it will pop off. Here are two pictures of the throttle body off the car, note that there is oil on the inside and both the inside and outside need cleaning. Now to get the intake pipe out from between the left and right manifolds. You can see that there is the plastic Y splitter that the throttle body attaches two, and then two short rubber hoses that attch the plastic splitter to the intake manifolds. There is a recirculation hose connected to the top left of the splitter. The other end of this hose is connected to the AOS. Porsche was VERY nice when they made these hoses, if you squeeze the two textured parts together the hoses pull off easily - no wire hose clamps. Yeah Porsche! Also notice that this splitter piece has the groove where a new throttle body gasket should go. Each rubber hose has two large hose clamps on it. In order to get the splitter out, I recommend loosening only the two outer most clamps, that is the clamps on closes to each intake manifold, because then you can rotate the splitter up or down to help break the seal of the rubber hoses on the intakes. Then I removed the inner two clamps and broke the seal of the rubber hoses to the splitter. To get everything off, I pushed the rubber hoses as far onto the intake manifolds as I could (essentially pushing the two rubber hoses father apart) , and then the splitter came out from between the hoses. In retrospect - and after putting all this back together, I would have pushed the rubber hoses closer together onto the splitter and then taken out the splitter with the hoses attached as it went back on this way pretty easy. Here is the splitter And here is where the splitter was... In this last picture you can see the short rubber hose segments, the disconnected recirculation hose, and the back crossover tube that also connects the two intake manifolds. If you follow the disconnected recirculation hose down, you can see the top of the AOS. I could see that a fair amount of oil had collected in the intake system. I also removed the power steering reservoir - there is a 10mm bolt on the right side holding it to the right intake manifold and a plastic tub that connects down to the pump. That tube has a nice twist connector on it, twist it to the left (counterclockwise) about a quarter of a turn and the whole thing will just pull out. This picture shows where it was, and the black plastic tube that has a green o-ring is where that reservoir was connected. Now I removed the 4 E-10 bolts that held down the right intake manifold to the cylinder head. This is where things may have been easier on the non-S or the 996? My intake manifolds are one piece with the injectors attached to the bottom. There are 4 bolts, one on each end and one between each pair of cylinders. If we number them from rear of car to front, number two was the real pain to get out. There is a sensor embedded in the manifold directly above this bolt which made it difficult, but eventually the right combination of extensions and u-joint made it possible (it was harder to replace than to remove). I couldn't really get a good picture here. I couldn't easily figure out how to get the fuel supply line and injectors disconnected, so I couldn't pull out the intake. Removing the intake bolts did left me move it around some which was helpful, but I'm note sure it was actually necessary to get the AOS out. Also, since I couldn't get it off, I couldn't change the gaskets - so I'll keep my fingers crossed that the old gaskets are still in place. This picture shows that I've removed the old AOS - you can see the recirculation hoses that attach to it (there are three - two on the left and one on the back), and then two small coolant hoses (both on the left). What it doesn't show is that there are two small T20 screws that hold the AOS to a bracket on the cylinder head. See the diagram below for better idea. I sure hope your hands are any larger than mine... I used a T-20 bit and a small ratcheting monkey wrench to get to these. If I hadn't loosened the right intake manifold, then I'm not sure that I could have gotten my hand in there to do this. There are the two coolant hoses that have to come off, one of them come from the water pump and there is a small segemnt of it that is rubber with a spring clamp right at the water pump fitting. This picture shows where I'm talking about. In retrospect I don't think I had to take this off, but it was easy. Please ignore the broken oil-pipe filler. Who did that? Turns out that this filler just sticks out into space and it is really easy to put too much pressure on it with your arm when trying to work on the intake. It snaps with a nice crisp pop that reminds you of a broken bone. Turns out it is a $40 dollar part that has to be ordered and it looks like the alternator has to come off to replace it. I think I'll keep my serpentine belt and pulleys for a future weekend when I get to change the filler pipe. Also, here I want to show the water hose connection, again an excellent job by Porsche. The blue piece on the end of the hose is a tab, than when pushed releases the connection and the hose comes right off. I only lost about 1/ 4 cup of coolant when disconnecting both water hoses. Lastly, here is a picture of the space where the AOS was sitting. You can see the opening in to the crankcase where the bottom tube of the AOS fits. A little wiggling and the new one slides right in. I cleaned everything using a carb cleaner and P21 citrus cleaner. Now that everything is apart, it's time to put it together. 1. new AOS in, connecting coolant hoses first and then getting the t20 screws into the AOS from the right side of the engine. 2. connect recirculation hoses to the aos, and the coolant hose back to the water pump fitting. 3. reconnect the rear crossover tube by pushing the rubber hoses as far as possible onto the intakes - again this helped that my intake was loose (take special care to get the vacuum connection reattached - I had to disconnect this vacuum hose over on the left intake manifold so that I could get enough slack to work with it, once it was back on I reconnected the vacuum hose on the left intake manifold. 4. put the bolts back into the right intake manifold, I did each hand tight with a socket extension and then torqued each to 7.5 ft-lbs (this seems right) - I also had to reconnect the sensor connector over that #2 bolt. 5. then I adjusted the rear crossover tube and then tightened the hose clamps (not too tight). 6. Then I put the front intake splitter and rubber hoses back on, to do this I pushed the hoses all the way onto the splitter and fit it between the intake openings and then separated them onto the intakes. Worked pretty well. 7. lined everything up and tightened the hose clamps (not too tight). 8. connected the recirculation hose to the splitter 9. Replaced the power steering reservoir, twisted the pipe connection to lock and replace the bolt into the right intake manifold 10. put new gasket on the splitter to throttle body face. 11. put throttle body back on the splitter - (torqued these to 7.5 ft-lbs also) 12. replace the air box with the two electrical connections and the vacuum connection. (13. duct tape the crap out of the oil filler tube to hold it and seal the vacuum until I can replace it) I'll say, there is some satisfaction in knowing that part of my $100k car is held together with duct tape. I started the car and filled my garage with white smoke - there was still some oil in the system from the last time it was stopped, but the car idles lower, better low end response, and I can get the oil filler cap off without giving myself an aneurysm. The posts I've seen say that it will continue to smoke on start up until the oil is cleared out. Might have done differently: 1. Not sure if I had to take the intake manifold bolts out - I had hoped to remove it, but in the end I couldn't. 2. Probably would remove the belt, and alternator in order to take off the oil filler pipe and get it out of the way - that would have kept me from braking mine.. 3. and if I did #2 above, I would have changed the pulleys and belt at the same time. Time: about 7 hours split over two days, next time might take 5 hours. Tools: here is everything that I used. Note the diet coke, this was necessary in copious amounts. Lots of 1/4 and 3/8 inch extensions and adapters to make different lengths. 7mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets. An E-10 star socket and a T-20 torx bit (or a star bit) I have both of these from a kit sold by harbor freight. Also came in handy when I changed the spark plugs and coils a year ago. The magnet and mirror are indispensable. I hope you have as much fun as I did. Someone described it like having your hand up a cow's backside, and there are times that made me chuckle. It is always nice to learn a little more about my car. I am in Dallas, and if anyone needs help or has questions, just let me know.

There have a been a few occurances of the cabrio top not fully completing the cycle, or simply refusing to open or close. If the hand brake light is on, very likely it is a low hydraulic fluid condition. The work below shows step by step how to add the fluid to the system. Tools needed: 5 mm allen wrench Flat screwdriver Children medicine syringe with small hose 1 Bottle of hydraulic fluid. Porsche is the recommended, I have used John Deere below with no problems after 4 weeks of filling: The steps for the process: 1. Open the top partially to the position shown 2. Pull the cables that the keep the rearmost part of the top secured to the car. One cable per side, the separate the cable from the connection in the car. 3. Let top move towards the close postion and move it out of the way. 4. Use a flat screw driver to remove the 4 plugs that keep the rear carpet in place. Remove the carpet, starting at the top as shown 5. Not a bad time to vacuum this piece while it is out. If you have kids, remove the lollipop sticks :P The work area will look like this: 6. This is the system pump you are looking for. Notice the screw where the Allen wrench will go to. Remove the screw, and keep a magnet pick up tool nearby if it fall down. 7. Use a flashlight on the oppsite side and shine direcly to the reservior. You will be able to clearly see the level and the gap to full. The fullmark is in the front below the screw removed. 8. To fill the top, use the syringe filled with fluid and insert the hose into the hole below. WARNING, the brass washer may fall off if you are not carefull, you can remove it or leave it and chance it. It probably won't move 9. Replace the screw, using fingers first to get it started. Take your time, will not be easy the first round. Finalize withe Allen wrench 10. Replace the carpet (did you clean it?) and the secure it with the plugs. Move the top back in place and secure the cables to the car. Open and close the top a few times. Enjoy the open air And remember, nothing races like a Porsche, but nothing runs like a deer