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Also, beware there was a mid-year change in the MAF design in MY2000. There are many versions of the eGas MAF, but the first is not compatible with the latter ones. Most places only sell the newer versions. If you use the newer version, you will need to get your ECU reflashed to support the newer MAF. Contrary to what some believe, it is not a setting that the dealer can set. Make sure you get the right version MAF. If you have trouble finding the original eGas version, PM me.

I flip-flop different pads and also have the Mintex red box. The EBC Red Ceramics dust much less than the Mintex. The EBC greens are more street friendly (no squeal), but also dust more than the EBC Red Ceramics. My observation is the ceramic pads dust less.

EBC Red Ceramic are pretty good. They squeal a tiny bit under light braking to a stop. Little dust, work good when cold, better when warmed up. I like them better than OE in every respect, and they are cheap.

Thanks for the side-by-side comparisons. :)

The difference is probably that you had your front toe'd out before and now it's toe'd in. You were running a pretty huge amount of rear toe before. Did your tires last very long? ;) As far as whether your alignment is good or bad, everybody's got a different opinion on how they like the car to feel, so I won't comment. Before, the front was probably more responsive (some would call darty), and with that much rear toe, you could probably attack any corner without fear. You were probably just shredding those rear tires, though. Now, your rear will rotate more and your tires will wear better. Everything's a trade-off... P.S. The statistical variation of before and after is kinda interesting because I can almost guarantee the shop didn't touch anything to affect caster or camber. Also, if they did not drive the car around (like over any speed bumps), I would be cautious to make sure that rear toe holds.

Cool! Thanks for the info. Is this what Porsche calls a "track rod" (#17 in PET) or what some others call a "tie rod"? Any pics? If it's the track rod, my guess is this would help maintain/promote toe in under load and aid stability. Wth a pound of this mix, you can probably do a heck of a lot.

As long as this thread is revived, are you using Flexane 94 which is a Shore A 97 hardness? That seems pretty darn hard to me. There is also a Flexane 80 which is 87A which still seems plenty hard to me. Any comments? Tire tread rubber is typically around 70A.

Oh my God! Can you say this needs to be on You Tube? :lol:

Thanks for the pic, Tool Pants! Somehow, I knew you'd have one ;) I will try to compare with a 996 pic I found. It's likely, but I'd rather not pull the thing apart just to find out. But, the cylinder head scavenge pumps are at driver's side front and passenger's side rear, so in a weird twist of coincidence, any potential for oil starvation is the same with the 996 because the 3 and 4 diagonal cylinders (I think I got that right) swap positions.

Try Champion Motorsport: http://www.championmotorsport.com/contact.htm

I will side with CJ on this one. I have put K&N filters in every car I've owned for the past 25 years, some with MAFs and well over 100K miles (some approaching 200K), and I've never encountered any problems nor did the engines wear out prematurely. To each his/her own, of course, but the last thing I worry about with my Boxster is the engine wearing out. The tuners seem to think they add HP, but I would admit it's probably too small to be statistically measurable, but you could say that about a lot of Porsche mods. I did enjoy the lawnmower pics. Any RMS leaks?

Can anyone confirm or deny that the 996 X51 Oil Pan fits a 986 crankcase? The standard oil pans are the same across 986 and 996 M96 engines, but since the X51 oil pan seals against the inside of the crankcase, I don't know if the interior sides/pipes are the same or not. Here's the item: http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...y_Code=996sport This is part number 996.107.243.40 from the TSB. Mine specifically is a 2000 986S.

11" is too wide on the rear. 9" is getting pretty big for the front, but I'm not sure about the offset since this is not a popular fitment. I would pass. There is no hope of fitting 295s on 11" rears unless you plan on doing some serious body work.

Everything is relative. In the end, it depends on what you want, what you're used to, how you drive, what speeds you're talking, the rest of your suspension, etc. I've seen many different opinions on this subject, so following is only one man's opinion. I have done numerous alignments on my Boxster. FWIW, I think factory tire and alignment specs are a bit of a joke. IMNSHO: Max (and symmetrical) neg camber in the front is a good starting point on a stock (incl RoW/030) for an aggressive setup. A hair of toe-in as you suggest is fine, but I don't find the Boxster particularly sensitive to front toe. A good rule of thumb considering torsional flex, caster, etc., is to set the rear camber about -0.5 to -1.0 more than the front. I find the Boxster to be wildly sensitive to rear toe which often goes out. Zero for me is a scary wild ride (may work for some under their particular conditions). The middle of the factory spec range is loose but workable for low-speed work. The high end of the factory toe is more what I like for higher speeds and if you want to man-handle the car more and not have it come around too easily (depends of what other electronic aids you may or may not have). If you really want to thrash your car at higher speeds, more like 911 rear toe will keep things in check, but you will not really be able to get the car around no matter how hard you try. Good luck and post your opinions/impressions ;)

The camber should be matched left to right. You can measure camber with ordinary hand tools and do some math. The real problem is that if you touch either of the eccentrics, you toe will be horrifically off. Unless you have right tools and experience, you cannot get it adjusted back to normal. You need to take it to an alignment shop. I would drive locally and not even take it on the highway. Trust me, if you loosen and then tighten an eccentric, you can easily throw your toe off by a 1/2".

My thoughts: Your car is a beautiful, slightly subtle color that is asking for attention. Your black, chrome wheels are the same--subtle but asking for attention. I would not go for red or yellow. They are too loud and screaming for attention. They will be fighting for attention from the car and wheels. I think they will win. I would vote for silver or even a glossy black. Additionally, you won't have to worry about poseur comments about S brakes or PCCB. The other problem with brightly painted brakes is that you have to clean them. Dirt just stands out. With silver or black, they can be dirty and no big deal. I think I would agree with you that the blue would have to match and think it would be too subtle to be worth a custom color. My 2 cents...

Do a search. Pretty much the only one out there is made by Evolution Motorsports ("Evo"). BTW, the factory ones are already cold-air intakes as is the case in most modern cars.

If you disconnect the battery, you will have to "reset" the windows. Just power them all the way down manually and all the way back up.

Definitely not power coat. The factory S brakes appear to use red paint with a very cheap clear over that. Mine and others' have notoriously flaked and peeled. The Porsche red also does not appear to be "red" red. It has a slight orange tint to it, possibly guards red or similar. The reason I say this is that if I touch up mine with over-the-counter brake paint kits, the red is a little off. The base brakes are not a gloss black, but do appear to be some very dark anodizing or some other chemical dye treatment. I think the 550 SE came with silver calipers.

For mileage, high teens seems reasonable. My city mileage is much worse than highway. But, I did not buy this car for mileage. Have fun and don't worry about it. I even thrown in some 100 octane every once in a while. Same for tires, I don't care how long tires last. I bought the car to have fun. With that said, there are some very good budget tires out there. My RE750s had the same stick as my PZeros, were a lot cheaper and had a treadwear rating of something like more than double. They would not wear out. Agree on replacing all 4 at the same time, though.

Hmmm... tell me more about whose LSD you used, cost, etc. Whose flywheel and custom clutch did you use? I've only seen Aasco. So you have an unsprung clutch and a single-mass flywheel. Any issues? I know of one other person with similar setup, and he reported no issues. jh, welcome! Regarding the Dansk pressed muffler. If you are going with the Evo intake, you will never hear the Dansk. It is louder than stock, but just barely. I would do it for a few HP, but not for sound. With more sound usually goes more resonance. I think the only (and expensive) way around this is with the PSE. Depends on how much sound you want and how much resonance you're willing to tolerate. There are plenty of threads on the boards on mufflers. Don't quote me on this, but I believe if you raise the rev limit, you will set many, many "type 2" (I think they're called) over-revs in the computer. I believe the type 1 and type 2 revs are fixed. Thus, if you ever need any warranty or good-will work, that will likely go out the window--not that you may care. Personally, I'd be more worried about random intermediate shaft failures and other design/manufacturing flaws than engine failures from over-revving. I just have never heard of that on any of the boards. Yes, 17" will ride smoother than 18". Be sure to get 225/45 for the front. And get a tire that rides decent. That also has a big impact--as much as the change to 17". My 17" Continentals rode as bad as my 18" Pirellis. (Continental SportContacts suck.) If you get aftermarket wheels that are slightly wider, you can easily run 235/45 and 265/40 which is what I ran which are about 0.3" taller and 10mm wider. I had the Mille Miglia Turbo Look clones in 17". In fact, you could go with 245s and 275s if you wanted. Drilling the camber slots works fine. Camber plates will raise your ride height unless you go aftermarket suspension.

I would try to make it. A few things I'd be interested in observing: * Motor mounts especially to see of 911 motor mounts might fit Boxsters (i.e. 964RS) * Anyone still doing OBC hacks * Seeing how you flush a clutch slave * Changing of a poly-rib belt * Checking out how "rattly" a LWFW really is if someone has one * How you can change front springs without pulling the wheel carriers I've done a few GT3 front bars. Do you have the shorter end links? I can bring the Loctite ;) Brake pads are cake. Seems there's some brake pad interest. I have a set of 80% (guess) front OEM Boxster/996 (318mm) pads if anyone wants them. Actually, I think these are the same as rear 996 S/TT (330mm) pads, too.

Sorry for being a doofus and not knowing where they were originally. Are the three top slots then completely interchangeable? Could I move the climate control to the #3 slot? Mine (2000) is stock and the climate is in #1, and the stereo is in #2. I put an MP3 in #3, and I have a G-meter in #4. I've had my Becker unit flake out a few times. If it ever goes, I'm wondering if I could put in a double-DIN nav or something like that and move the climate to the #3 slot. Thanks for the pics!

If you love both, red. The painted roll-hoops give it a nice zing, too. Also, looks to have other options such as aluma-look steering wheel.

That's the guy. I have no idea how the VarioCam+ is controlled, but solving it has got to be easier than retrofitting the rest of the ECU, harness, instrument cluster, etc., etc. Are you sure? I didn't think the 986S intake manifolds would bolt up since the 996 intake uses those little ~2" spacer manifolds and the number of bolts is different unless you're talking 987S and PET is wrong. Not lowering the engine means you can fit the stock exhaust if ever needed. I saw that 9ff uses the X51 intake manifolds. I wonder if they are any different in height. I kinda figured you got a deal you couldn't refuse. Have at it! Thanks for the info as always...