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Wayne R. Dempsey

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Everything posted by Wayne R. Dempsey

  1. No sweat! I'm a DIY enthusiast just like you! -Wayne
  2. Thanks for the kudos. Engine swaps are like fingerprints - they are are similar, but each one is completely different. Yours is by far the most radical I think I've seen... -Wayne
  3. Yes, but must you remove the fuel and just add 12 liters if you are replacing just the sending unit? I'm not sure where that requirement came from - if it's from Porsche, I'm not sure their reasoning behind it. When replacing your fuel pump, I recommend that you empty your tank all the way regardless. It's very easy to do, I have instructions on how to safely do this in my fuel pump replacement article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump.htm Also, I do like to run the pump with some fuel prior to starting the car. It's good practice to fill and prime the lines prior to starting up. You can jumper the pump as described in the above DIY article in order to accomplish this. I haven't heard of any Boxster "calibration" issues with new senders - I think the system / circuit is pretty basic, and very similar to how it is on the older air cooled cars. Hope this helps, -Wayne
  4. Hmm, usually a rough idle will show up immediately with codes. Perhaps your standard OBD-II reader is not picking up all of the codes? I would try the Durametric tool just to be sure. That said, the next step I would try would be to check all of the vacuum lines and connections (see here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm). Although I would think that a big vacuum leak would indeed cause codes to kick. Another thought is that your dual-mass flywheel may be old and failing, although that supposedly kicks out misfire codes when it doesn't quite respond. Again, odd that there are no codes... Also check the transmission mounts, they may be worn out too and transferring vibration to your chassis (long shot, I don't think that's it): http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/36-TRANS-Tranny_Mounts/36-TRANS-Tranny_Mounts.htm Hope this helps, -Wayne
  5. Intermediate shaft bearing failures are sometimes predicted by deviations in the camshaft timing like you've seen here. I'm not saying that your IMS bearing is about to dissolve, but it's one thing to be looking at. Take a closer look at your camshaft deviation while the car is running, and see if there are some problems left / right there. Since the bearing affects both camshafts equally (mostly equally), it's not uncommon to see separate left/right codes in this situation. -Wayne
  6. Absolutely change the oil. I'm recommending 3000-5000 in my new book on these cars. The longer life oil change intervals have been pushed on the car makers by the environmentalists, and the result is contaminated oil and engine failures. Change often! -Wayne
  7. I have an article on the installation of a kit just like this. Putting it back to stock would be the reverse of installation - just take out the HID stuff and then rewire the bulbs. You should be able to accomplish this within an hour or two? Here's the link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/84-ELEC-HID/84-ELEC-HID.htm Hope this helps, Wayne
  8. Follow my instructions here, and they should help you out tremendously: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner.htm It's not too difficult if you have the right information in hand. -Wayne
  9. Indeed, you should not need to recalibrate the fuel pump level sender when you replace it with a new unit. I have done this quite a few times with no problems. The new units work flawlessly, as long as you don't get the hoses tangled up on the sending unit as discussed in my article. -Wayne
  10. Hmm, that might be the problem, but you can remove the hose from the air oil separator and the throttle body and plug both ends to test. I would also think that you might have a vacuum leak that is causing problems, have you checked all of your connections? I had similar problems, but it was a MAF calibration problem (see my engine conversion article for details on that). See if closing off the throttle-body connection to the air-oil separator makes a difference - I tried this when I was having issues with my 3.4. Also check the 12V on the variable valve timing solenoids (both of them) when the car is running. For more info on checking for vacuum leaks, use a smoke machine like the one shown here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm Hope this helps, -Wayne
  11. Rule of thumb for anyone buying a used DME on eBay. Get the codes from the donor car, or at a bare minimum, get the VIN number of the donor car and then find a friendly Porsche dealer who can get you the information out of the Porsche dealer system (called IPAS). The 7.2 DMEs used on the 2000- Boxsters and the 3.4 996s have gotten very expensive lately ($5000+), so I expect a bunch of people to be buying them from eBay in the future. But again, they are worthless without the above information. -Wayne
  12. I would be somewhat concerned as to what made the fuse blow in the first place. Sounds like something may have been incorrectly hooked up at one time, or something added to that circuit that caused the alarm fuse to blow? -Wayne
  13. Right - I agree with JFP. Maybe I'm a sucker for Mobil-1 stuff, but the Mobil-1 brand name on that filter makes me a bit happier with it than the stock OEM filter. An added benefit with the LN Engineering kit is that you can easily add an Accusump unit to the car. Great addition for a track car, here's a pic of Charles' Boxste race car with it installed. -Wayne
  14. I don't know what year your car is, but the early ones had problems with the ignition switches (the electrical portions), and Porsche redesigned the part a few years later. It could be the switch, or it could be the starter, but I would start by replacing the switch. It's cheap, and you can do it yourself pretty easy (see here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm for instructions). If that doesn't fix the problem, then the starter would be suspect. Although from what you describe, it sounds more like a dash issue. The starter problems are often related to the temperature of the engine (like it will be better or worse when the engine is hot). The starter has two parts - a solenoid and a starter motor. Sometimes the starter solenoid gets stuck - one solution is to tap it with a hammer to try to get it started, but you can't easily reach it on a 996. Another issue may be the "chip" in the key. I would try your spare key before replacing anything and see if that gives you better results. Good luck! -Wayne
  15. I've tried many times to fix these types of radios in the Porsches and BMWs too - never quite succeeded, and the best solution was to often purchase a broken unit from eBay (broken for a different reason) and swap out the face plates. -Wayne
  16. Before you spend hundreds if not thousands of dollars on a clutch replacement, you may want to check out your clutch hydraulics first. They are easy to replace (relatively), and may fix the problem (see info on clutch hydraulic troubleshooting here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/45-TRANS-Clutch_Hydraulics/45-TRANS-Clutch_Hydraulics.htm . Usually, I have found that clutch pedal problems are not typically related to the actual clutch mechanism, but instead are related to problems with the pedals, and/or the master/slave cylinders. When a clutch fails, you will often find that the car slips in gear, or the clutch engages, and will not let out, or you will get through-out bearing noise. Sometimes a pressure plate that's on its way out will cause a "heavy pedal" but not that often. Hope this helps, Wayne
  17. Problem with the fuel pump? I wonder where that came from. When the MAF goes screwy, it can cause lots of different error codes. I would just keep an eye on it - maybe recheck the codes in a month or so to see if anything came up. Off the top of my head, I can't think of a sensor that senses actual fuel pressure in the lines - I wonder why they thought there was a problem with the pump? Oh well, glad to hear the car is running well. -Wayne
  18. That indeed is a neat timing tool kit, but not all of the tools in there are 100% necessary unless you're a shop You can get away without some of them. I'll go over the tools here: P255 holds the cams from falling out when you take out the cam covers, but you can also use P253 to do the same thing. P256 holds the cams in place after you release the two cam holders that hold them in place - useful if you're working on the engine with it still in the car, but if the engine is on the stand, simply rotate the engine upwards to prevent them from falling out P258 crankshaft lock. Simply use a 5/16th drill bit and save yourself some money P253 is the only tool that I think is pretty necessary, but you can also index the camshafts at the end by their markings. I don't have a good photo of this up on the web right now, but I will in the next week or so... JFP is right - the process is not very difficult (not like an air cooled 911 motor), but the potential to mess things up is high if you don't have the proper tools or knowledge. -Wayne
  19. Wow, that's crazy! I just finished my 3.4 conversion a few months ago too - the thing is a rocket! If you want to add a photo of your car to the bottom of the 3.4 conversion tech article that would be most cool. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm I'm also trying to gather people's comments who have actually done the swap. Any suggestions or differences in how you did the conversion? -Wayne
  20. Definitely avoid used ones - they may be worn out and you wouldn't even know it. -Wayne
  21. I've got a whole tech article here that I wrote that should answer all your questions that you have posed here. Check out the photos for details on how you attach the lock mechanism to the door cable. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm The tool you're looking for should be available at any Craftsman store, or a good parts retailer - they are fairly common. -Wayne
  22. The "Gold Standard" in seats are the GT3 seats that are similar to the ones used in the Carrera GT. Very cool, and pretty comfy too! Relatively easy to bolt in, there's a tech article on the Pelican site with an overview. I've attached a photo for your reference... -Wayne
  23. It's a good idea - the guys at Callas Rennsport have seen the paper filters disintegrate and stuff paper throughout the engine. Not exactly what you want to see in an oil filter. I recommend them and show the installation in the oil change article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/02-BASICS-Oil_Change/02-BASICS-Oil_Change.htm -Wayne
  24. I don't know what you mean when you say your alternator has no "free wheel". The alternator has a pulley on it that is connected to the alternator guts - nothing else. The photo I posted is how your engine looks underneath all of the air cleaner stuff. That tensioner pulley is not attached to the alternator... -Wayne
  25. Those clamp pliers are easy for assembly of cars - they are terrible to actually perform replacements on. I prefer the German clamp-style ones instead. -Wayne
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