JFP in PA

I don't see how you could do this with something other than a Porsche/VW/Audi type trans axle as the transmission and differential is a single and very compact unit. Aftermarket transmission's are just that, a transmission without a differential.

Yes, but it was a God awful amount of work and expense, money you will never get out of the car, and actually ends up reducing the final value of the vehicle (any shop worth its salt will spot the swaps in a future PPI and warn potential buyers away as cars like this tend to be very problematical ) The only project we have ever seen that was worse than this was when a customer wanted to put a Mezger turbo engine in a Boxster; by the time it was done, he could have bought a brand new turbo car with the amount of money spent, and he had a Frankenstein car that nobody wanted to buy. In the end, the owner ended up pulling the Mezger back out and selling it, and then selling the Boxster as a rolling chassis. The amount of money lost on this project was absolutely staggering. Sometimes you need to step back and take a realistic look at these projects and make a rational decision. While interesting, both were completely impractical, and ultimately a huge waste of money, time, and resources. We won’t be doing anymore of either.

Knowledge, like speed, is expensive to acquire

The OBD II manuals were originally in print (discontinued around 2005-2006) and were published by Porsche. There is one three ring binder for each model (986, 996, etc.) and each cost between $1800 and $2300 to buy when they were still in print. Each manual has had numerous updates (the 986 alone has nearly 100 supplement pages) to cover technology changes and super seceded parts. Both because of their huge size, and because Porsche considers them their intellectual copyrighted property, they cannot be reproduced or shared electronically. If you are interested in obtaining one for your car, search the web as they come up for sale from time to time.

Yes, and the short answer is : Don't do it. You are going to need to practiaclly dismantel the entire car to do this (pull out the entire interior to run the shifter cables, install the clutch pedal, etc.). You need a new master cylinder, and are going to have to run hydrualic lines from the front to the back of the car for the clutch system, along with acquiring a working gearbox, axles, gearbox mounts, reprogram the DME, etc, etc. We did this for one die hard customer, and all in parts and labor it ran well north of $10K, which you are nover going to get back when selling the car, and which was priced out at "steal" labor prices because we felt sorry for the owner. Having done one, we won't be doing another. Sell the car and find one configured as you want, or drive it as it is. I know that this is not what you want to hear, but it is the reality of this project; the view simply is not worth the climb.....................

Welcome to RennTech Start with the basics: Does the tachometer "bounce" while you are cranking it over? If it doesn't , you may have a bad crank position sensor. If it does bounce, check to see that you have both fuel pressure and delivery. No fuel, no fire.................

Labor rates vary with geography, so you will have to check them locally. Figure on 4-6 hours, plus parts. A full clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing) should retail in the $400-500, assuming your dual mass flywheel is still good. If it isn't, add $1K. You should update the RMS while doing this, and it is also a great opportunity to retrofit the IMS while it is apart.

That is pretty much correct, the exact location varies a bit by model and equipment. And no, a bad pump won't necessarily loose fluid. You carpets should pull right up once the edge trim is removed.

No, it is not the brake booster. ABS/PSM systems have their own hydraulic pump in the system, which is also one expensive bear, around $2K at retail (item #1):

OK then try this video: How to change a 991 air filters This is for 2112+ 991 cars.

Exactly the same as the last time you asked in 2015: The following procedure is for Boxster only. Removing and installing multi-function switch Removal 1. Hold engine by transport shackle in installed position with special tools 10 -222A and 9591/1 2. Remove the left catalytic converter. 3. Detach selector lever cable from deflection lever and transmission support. 4. Place transmission jack under the transmission. 5. Remove the left transmission support with hydraulic mount. Note: The fastening nut M12 © must not be loosened. The transmission support will otherwise be damaged. A -Transmission support B -Hydraulic mount C -fastening nut M12 6. Release and disconnect cable connection to multi-function switch. 7. Unscrew fastening screws and pull switch off the selector shaft. Installation Install in the reverse order. Put multi-function switch on the selector shaft. The flat point on the serrations in the switch (3) must lie against the flat point on the selector shaft (1). Note: Place multi-function switch on the selector shaft. Do not tilt or use force: you may damage the switch contacts. 2. Turn switch until the fitting bore (4) can be put on the dowel pin (2) on the transmission housing. Tightening torques Multi-functions witch to transmission housing -- (M6) = 8 Nm (6 ftlb.) Transmission prop to transmission housing -- (MID) = 65 Nm (48 ftlb.) Hydraulic mount to carrier side section -- (M8) = 23 Nm (17 ftlb.)

Do a search, servicing the 991 air filters has been covered before. Not fun, but doable.

More often than not, when we get a car in with this problem post DIY ignition switch install, the owner knocked one (or both) of the pedal switch connections loose.

To put the oil source in perspective, the cylinder heads are one of the hottest and dirtiest sources of oil. There have also been reports of lifter noise and VarioCam problems when oil is drawn from the head, both of which problems went away when the oil feed line was disconnected. The actual reason only one retrofit kit manufacturer uses oil coming from the filter is that this method is protected by a patent; but the filter area oil is both cooler and just filtered as well. If it wasn't patented, others would use it as it is a better oil source.

OK, my next move would be to have the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool and look at the actual coolant temperature values to make sure they are were they should be. If everything is good, I would read and note all codes, then clear them and see if they return. We have seen fault codes are P2181 (thermostat stuck open) and P3081 (engine coolant temperature implausible) on GT cars caused is a blocked valve on the trans cooler (photo), but your car should not have that.

Not sure, he could have replace the thermostat, which is different.

The vehicle will code because the pump is in effective. Usually the valve sticks due to build up, but they can fail electrically as well.

Only for shops, or individuals, who did not follow through on the process and register the retrofit. We see cars regularly for PPI's that claim to have an LN retrofit, but without supporting paperwork from the shop that did it, we totally discount the claim and warn the buyer as much. The problem with retrofits (excepting the IMS Solution, which is visually obvious) is no provenance, no value; which also means that the buyer now needs to factor doing the retrofit into the price, lowing it further. LN has been proactive in supporting end users than have one of their retrofits. After years of unsupported claims, and even some history of counterfeit door jam stickers, now they have useful tool for buyer's and sellers that went with installers that did the job right and protected their interests.

P0446 is for an EVAP shutoff valve malfunction, usually because the purge like is blocked. It has nothing to do with the cams.

Being emissions related codes, they could to preserve the three way cats.

I would connect a Porsche specific scan tool and check the actual coolant temperature readings, you may have a bad coolant temp sensor.

P1118 Oxygen Sensor Heating after TWC Bank 2. You have a code for the rear O2 sensor heating element on bank 2. When we see this code in a transient mode (goes away and comes back), it is often after the car has been wet (rain, ran through standing water, etc.). Does any of that apply?

Check the resistance of each of the coil packs. Resistance between terminal 1 and terminal 15 at 20°C: 0.3 - 0.7 ohms. Any coil pack that is drastically different should be replaced.

Depends. We sometimes get car is that had been running fine, and then developed problems after a rainy spell or they had just been washed. Inspection showed multiple coils with cracks that were effected by moisture. You need to pull the coils and closely look at them for cracks, you can also check them resistance at the same time. Coils are like light bulbs, eventually they will fail and have to be replaced.

More often than plugs, old or cracked coil packs lead to misfires. Pull the coil packs and check them.