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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You could also coat the new OEM lines to help limit the impact of winter salt.
  2. Are you saying they are not in this image on page 68 of this file: http://maben.homeip.net/static/auto/porsche/Porsche%20911%20996%20Owners%20Manual%20200205.pdf
  3. The CPS in on the passenger's side of the bell housing and is held in by one bolt. Run a voltage drop test across the cables, you should have no more than 0.5V loss.
  4. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Have you checked your crank position sensor? They are infamous for causing hot non starting issues on these cars.
  5. Companies like Eastwood and Stainless Brakes sell stainless steel brake line tubing in rolls (usually around 25 ft. in length). They also sell line end fittings. Because of the complex bends in the factory lines, I don't believe you can find pre-bent units off the shelf. You are going to need to extract your OEM mild steel lines and fabricate stainless replacements one at a time.
  6. As they are relatively new, experience is rather limited, but as they are all metal construction (rather than the composite end tanks and mounts on the OEM units), I would expect they should be stronger long term. Unfortunately, only time will tell.
  7. The front rotor and calipers are a bolt on swap and will clear your 18" wheels. The rear is another story; the S cars used a different wheel hub carrier and e brake assembly, which is completely different from the base cars. To use the S brakes on the rear, you will need to swap out the carriers for S carriers and then obtain the e brake system for the S car as well. Not a cheap proposition unless you have a wrecked S sitting around you can cannibalize, and don't mind a lot of work...........
  8. By far, most radiator failures we have seen happen when the molded plastic mounts snap off, either from prolonged vibrations or when some drives the nose of one of these cars up onto a parking curb.
  9. I would think that the mileage is the more important number. One of the largest strengths of the Solution is that it is permanent, which is a great point at resale.
  10. No, and there should be none on them from the factory.
  11. Both the alternator and AC compressor are in the way. If you have access to a Bentley manual, the R&R is fully covered with photos, starting on page 48-13. While there are some small differences on the later cars, it will give you an excellent overview of the process.
  12. I'd start by cleaning the pump off and filling it so that you can get a better look at were the leak is coming from, but I would bet it is where the tank seals to the pump, or the tank itself.
  13. It is not just a matter of finding a DME to match the engine; your chassis made wider use of CAN Bus communications for the control module network functions, while the older DME did not have as many control modules and routed communication's differently. There is a huge technology gap between the 7.2 and 7.8 DME's.
  14. Yep, those are the codes and the results I found as well. I've pulled the wheel liner and checked all the hoses and everything looks connected. I don't have access to a compressor at the moment to blow out the lines. In your experience could a valve/line malfunction cause my non start situation? Thanks Chuck It could; the codes popped for a reason which needs to be tracked down.
  15. I know, I know... So was I but the wife isn't working right now, the holidays are here so money is tight and I had a bunch of things come up at once... brakes, strut, oil change, MAF sensor..... So I'm repairing as I can. Glad you got it sorted; like a lot of other stuff, the devil is always in the details. :thumbup:
  16. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: P0455 is the code for a major leak (read vacuum) in the fuel tank ventilation system (EVAP canister, control valves, etc.,) P0446 indicates the EVAP canister shutoff valve is below limits, usually meaning that the purge airline is blocked or that the flow resistance in the EVAP canister is too high. You need to recheck your lines running off the EVAP canister, making sure the are correctly connected, and then blow some compressed air through the purge line to clear any blockages.
  17. I am always circumspect about strange codes that suddenly appear in conjunction with a battery failure. The code is for your waste gate control, but may be a "ghost code" triggered by the battery failure. I'd drive the car for a day or two and then try to reset it, or it may clear on its own.
  18. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Along with potential fuel system issues, the 2002 engine used a 7.2 DME and is VarioCam, while your 2004 car has a 7.8 DME and VarioCam+. To make this work, you either have to change the car back to the earlier DME, or update the engine to the later version of VarioCam. The 7.8 DME is not backwards compatible.
  19. You may want to check and see if your vehicle has a metallic based windshield tint; such tints can totally block some radio signals such as toll tags and radar detectors.
  20. No. for the simple reason that running it with water would only tend to push small bits further into the small passages. You've gotten most of it out, re-flush the heads and call it a day; you are not going to do any better without pulling the engine apart.
  21. I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded. Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing. Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear. I'm back. I went back to the car to fix this error and I'm having a brain fart. I'm now not sure of which retaining bolts you're talking about. I removed the strut by removing the caliper, axle at the transmission only and both eccentrics to allow the assembly to swing down and forward to have the clearance to remove the strut assembly. I marked the positions on the eccentrics before disassembly and placed them back perfectly afterwards. Even though you marked the eccentrics and/or other fasteners, you should not torque them to their final settings until the car's weight is sitting on the suspension, otherwise you are "pre-loading" the suspension in a non running configuration. You can do this with the car sitting on its tires, or by setting it down on a jack stand as close to the wheel carrier as possible, and then applying final torque.
  22. The problem with impeller debris is not the radiators, it is the cylinder heads which have a bunch of small passages where bits can lodge, restrict coolant flow, and create hot spots that ultimately lead to cracked heads. When you did your flushing, did you try to collect as much of the impeller debris as possible to try and see how much you got out? If you feel you have recovered most of the lost impeller, I would put the car back together and run it. Totally dismantling the engine and having everything ultrasonically cleaned may be the ultimate pathway, but for many the view simply isn't worth the climb.
  23. Silver_TT is spot on, you must use the Durametric cable, which houses proprietary firmware that allows you to access and clear codes with their software package; nothing else will work.
  24. I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded. Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing. Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.
  25. Most shops have tools to check each sensor to make sure they are working. Suggest you look for an online version of your manual section in english to check you have correctly set the car's system before going further.
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