JFP in PA

What codes are you seeing?

Good time to consider updating your RMS and IMS bearing while it is already apart.

It holds the seal, and is a separate item. No, it is not the plastic cone, it is metal, and specific to the PTFE seal, and yes, it is required. I don't know anything about the Reinz seal, we only use the OEM part.

They usually are, which is why we change them earlier than the specs call for. As I said earlier, fluid is cheap, Tiptronics are not.

Looks like this, about $30 at a dealer:

That looks like their version of the late tool, but I would confirm that before spending the money as the wrong tool will install the seal at the incorrect depth and cause it to leak.

Both are cylinder misfire codes, pointing to the #6 cylinder. Check the coil pack connections on that cylinder, and pull the plug and look at it. I will check that because I have a misfire on that cylinder and I drove that car for a bit long before I put it in the shop for changing the ignition coils, could it be the spark plug needs to be changed? also the dealer says that it might be from the fuel injectors or the fuel pump...could it be? Could be a bad plug, or even just a loose coil pack connector. A bad fuel pump would impact more than one cylinder, and a bad injector should show up in the fuel air mixture data and throw a different code.

You might also want to look at the tool another poster made from a PVC cap the pulls the seal in more evenly: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46156-rms-seal-replacement-at-45k-miles/#entry257854

That would also work well. The entire trick is to keep the insertion even all the way around while it is going in. Once cocked, the seal is usually toast.

Both are cylinder misfire codes, pointing to the #6 cylinder. Check the coil pack connections on that cylinder, and pull the plug and look at it.

First, stop following Wayne's instructions. The OEM tool holds the seal around the outside while a second section presses it home using a threaded shaft. You need to put the hammer down, and wearing clean nitrile or latex shop gloves (this seal does not like any contamination, lubricant, or sealant; any of which will cause it to leak), you need to gently get the seal evenly started in the opening before even attempting to move it to its correct inserted depth.

The inner diameter of the larger tool section is 1 cm or about 7/16 inch.

Porsche had a manual section on setting the Homelink system, which requires the use of a handheld remote: http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/2012-911-carrera/6/192/ "Hold the original remote control approx. 12 in. (30 cm) away from the marked position (illustration) and press and hold the transmit button (for more than approx. 1 minute in some cases) until the vehicle's direction indicator lights flash on and off three times or the indicator light A on the overhead operating console starts flashing quickly." I know of no other way to set it. I'd suggest buying the cheapest replacement remote for your brand of opener and get on the manual's instruction routine.

Both the alternator shaft and the declutching pulley assembly are internally splined, hence the special tool, which holds the shaft still while the other part of the tool tightens the pulley in place. This is what the pulley should look like, and the tip of the shaft should be a similar but smaller internal spline as well: If the treads on the shaft are buggered, you could use a die to clean them up (I have no idea of the size or pitch however), but if either internal spline is damaged, I don't know how you are going to repair them.

Unless you torque it with the tool Ahsai mentioned, it is never going to stay tight. You need the double tool:

There is a reason for that: Porsche does not sell just the regulator, therefore it is not listed as a separately available part in the PET. They only sell the entire alternator. The regulator commonly used in these cars is used in VW, Mercedes, and even some Ford models. Typical street pricing is around $40 or so.

OK, here is where I'm at as of this juncture: Everyone I have spoken to (oil company technical personnel, used oil analytical labs) has basically said the same thing: When fuel dilutes the oil, a very small (read minute) amount of the oil's ingredients may react with the fuel and form compounds that may be more difficult to separate from the oil, but even that change does not in any way impede a laboratory from separating the fuel from the oil in both a quantitative and qualitative manner. The most common technique used to determine both the quantity of fuel in the oil, and to analyze this fuel effluent to confirm that it truly is fuel, is head space gas chromatography. In this technique, the oil sample is gradually heated up to between 300 and 350F so that the instrument can determine both the temperature at which the effluent comes off, and compare the analytical data of the individual components of the effluent with stored known sample data bases to confirm that it actually is fuel. From this technique, the lab can tell you both how much came off as a percentage of the sample mass, and confirm that it is fuel and not some other diluent. Using gas chromatography, or flame ionization chromatography which is able to do the same test with even higher levels of accuracy, this analytical technique is considered to be both accurate and extremely reproducible. No one that I have spoken with concurs with the idea that diluent fuel mixed with common commercial synthetic engine oil will not flash off under normal engine operating conditions found in a Porsche oil sump (coolant around 200-215F, oil around 230-240F, partial vacuum of around 5 inches of water). And as these conditions are "nominal", meaning that the engine, coolant, and oil are often hotter under warmer ambient conditions, higher speed driving, or aggressive driving situations; the engine should therefore have no problem ridding itself of most, if not all, of the highly volatile components found in normal gasoline. One individual even noted that water, which boils at a much higher temperature than gasoline, will completely boil off from engine oil at a little over 200F at 5 inches of water vacuum, well within the normal operating conditions of a Porsche engine. Used oil analytical labs I spoke with were fairly adamant in their response to fuel dilution levels continuing to rise in sequential oil samples from the same engine. The common response was one of two possibilities: Either the engine had a worsening problem that accelerated the fuel dilution problem with time, or the analytical technique used to determine the level of dilution was flawed. While some noted that as oil aged in use, it was possible for the breakdown by products of the oil itself to flash off at lower temperatures, which could lead to some confusion over the actual amount of fuel in the oil, but noted that either gas chromatography or flame ionization should recognize and discount these by products as not part of normal gasoline, and therefore not count them as being from fuel. So at this point, I will have to throw the topic back open for further discussion, and welcome input from anyone with other observations or data.

Not that I am aware of, I would contact Homelink to see if they can help.

+1. If the car is setting off the CEL, the DME is carrying data to tell you what is going on. Get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool.

ATF is always cheaper than a new trans..................

It has long been our opinion that the factory Tip service intervals are too long. Many of our Tip equipped customers have theirs done 40-60K mile intervals, sooner if the car is tracked. I'd change it.

The rotating assembly (rods and crank). I would not be attempting any further investigation until the car is flat bedded to a properly equipped shop.

That alternator voltage is also bit low, I would also consider having the alternator load tested; you may have a voltage regulator on the way out.

Problem could be differences in grip front to rear, which can be considerable, but is often more of one of "rolling diameter". If you have ever watched an NHRA top fuel car do a burnout and have the tires grow in height by nearly a foot, you have seen a visually extreme example of rolling diameter in action. All rolling tires grow due to the impact of speed induced centrifugal forces and their own weight. Because your car has asymmetrical sizing (front and rears are different sizes), the rears will tend to grow slightly more due to their heavier weight compared to the fronts. Add in the wear differences and it compounds the issue. The clue was your comment about the PSM invoking at a lower speed on the same turn; the difference in front to rear diameters fed the PSM differential wheel speeds outside the limits of its algorithm, and it suddenly thinks you are in trouble when you are not. A lot of Boxster owners experience the high rates of inside wear on the rear tires. Usual mitigating factors are the car's four wheel alignment specs and general driving style. Those that push the cars harder seem to see accelerated wear.

You can probably find something online, but be aware that a smoke test machine is not an inconsequential purchase, but you might be able to rent one. This might also be a good job for a well equipped shop to handle.