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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    The factory calibration procedure is to use 28 liters (7.3 US gallons), not 13 liters. It is also important that the fuel tank is completely empty before starting this procedure. "Calibrating fuel level sensor system 1. Disconnect the battery and cover terminal or battery. 2. Remove cap over the fuel level sensor system. 3. Remove fuel level sensor. Removing and installing fuel pump. 4. Using a fuel extractor, completely drain the fuel tank through the fuel level sensor opening. 5. Make sure that the two recesses on the left and right hand sides of the tank are emptied completely. 6. Reinstall the fuel level sensor and, with "ignition off", fill the tank with exactly 28 liters of fuel. 7. Perform tank calibration with the Porsche System Tester 2 (PIWIS or Durametric): - Select vehicle type (911 Carrera) - Select control modules - Select instrument cluster - Select menu item "Tank calibration" - Confirm calibration 8. The fuel level sensor system has now been calibrated."
  2. JFP in PA
    As long as the coupler had sufficient ridge to catch the flywheel bolts, and the coupler rests nicely on the seal, you are golden. Couple of points on installing the RMS seal: Everything must be scrupulously clean, not even finger prints, no sealer or lubricants of any kind should be used as they will cause the new seal to leak. Clean and dry. The PTFE seal has a different installed depth: 13MM from the flywheel mating face of the crankshaft.
  3. JFP in PA
    What tooling did you use to pull the hub? Heat may be your friend here, heating the remaining section will expand it and it should come off with some "encouragement".
  4. JFP in PA
    And Snap-On sells the special tool for about $18: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=10720003 This is also the same tool used on the Cayenne.
  5. JFP in PA
    I see now. I tried the same before briefly and found the threaded stud somehow locks in place even after both nuts are removed. I'm also curious to know if the stud can be removed. I believe that threaded stud is press into the shifter handle while it sits inside the blue aluminum central housing. You might want to contact B&M and see if they can replace the bushing or even the entire shifter. I don't think this is going to be a DIY project.
  6. JFP in PA
    Could be an old B&M unit:
  7. JFP in PA
    Somewhat, but not earth-shattering better; these should be considered a "maintenance item" that needs to be checked and replaced as needed, like the water pumps.
  8. JFP in PA
    Plus when you replace the housing, you get a new by-pass valve.
  9. JFP in PA
    +1, a very common problem with these plastic housings. You may also have either a bad, pinched, or misaligned top O-ring seal as well.
  10. JFP in PA
    That is exactly why Porsche moved away from the more stable five chain in favor of the three chain design.
  11. JFP in PA
    What you are seeing is the hydraulic tensioners slowly pump up and clean out over time. Run the car for a bit (take it for a 15-20 min. drive so it is fully warmed up) and then recheck the deviation values when you get back.
  12. JFP in PA
    Get the battery load tested to either identify it as a problem or eliminate it from consideration.
  13. JFP in PA
    A lot of factors come into play on when to replace the clutch assembly. As most people do not know to compress the marcel spring between the clutch disc faces before attempting to measure the disc thickness for wear the way you were doing it in the photos, and little information is published on disc wear limits (but I will see if I can find something), disc face measurements can often be misleading. And, as strange as this may sound, we look at the pressure plate fingers and throw out bearing for signs of wear. Quite often, the fingers and/or the bearing show a lot of wear before the disc even begins to look poorly. And If you are going to replace the pressure plate because of finger wear, it makes no sense to reuse the worn disc. At the end of the day, a clutch kit does not cost that much, assuming the flywheel is still in good shape, and when doing an IMS you have already spend the time to get in there, so it makes sense (particularly financially if you are paying someone to do it) to reuse the clutch. Once the car is buttoned up, you really don't want to go back in to swap parts you could have replaced while it was apart. OK, I found some factory data on the disc face wear: But I would still look at the pressure plate fingers for wear, regardless of how the disc measures.
  14. JFP in PA
    The instructions are ambiguous due to the same engine used in both the Boxster and 996. You want to lock Bank #1 (cylinders 1,2,3). The IMS tensioner is the same one indicated in the photo you included. A lot of people fab a second cam locking tool just to be safe, but it is not absolutely a requirement. If you completely remove the tensioners, do not mix them, they are not all the same. You should also replace the aluminum sealing ring on each tensioner released or removed to prevent future oil leaks.
  15. JFP in PA
    Looking at your latest pictures, I would concur; and remember to only rotate the engine clockwise, never counter clockwise.
  16. JFP in PA
    Another poster (Xmac) recently added this example of how the cam notches are off center and how to read the TDC positions :
  17. JFP in PA
    As long as the engine was thoroughly warmed up, the data should be accurate. While the one cam obviously exceeds the spec limits, as long as the values are constant and not bouncing around excessively, it is not an IMS issue. On the subject of IMS refits, when Jake Raby gets one of these cars into his shop for a retrofit and it is throwing large deviation values, he will not do the IMS unless the tensioners are corrected as well as he knows the car will eventually throw codes due to the worn pads and does not want anyone to relate the cam deviation issues with the IMS refit.
  18. JFP in PA
    Thanks for the explanation. So for DME 7.2 and later, these codes don't really help diagnostic much if there are no other codes. Glad I asked. These could be extremely misleading for 7.2 and later. I think part of the problem is that document has a 1999 date, so it may have been correct at the time. You have to be careful with check for supplements and updates. Thanks John. Do you know if this "dual nature" of P1128/1130 still holds true today for DME 7.2 and 7.8? To my knowledge, yes. And to add to Loren's point, on the later cars you need to collect some additional data, such as fuel trims, to know where you are.
  19. JFP in PA
    You need to make sure you are taking your readings after the car is warmed up and driven a bit. Checking as Xmac did will not harm anything, but as your engine is also a five chain, it is a reasonable assumption that the same tensioner wear pads are on their way out. This is a fairly common maintenance problem on these engines.
  20. JFP in PA
    Yes, just don't go crazy with the green Loctite. Its purpose is to wick into the nut threads and prevent oil from seeping down the threads, not to lock the fasteners together.
  21. JFP in PA
    Thanks for the explanation. So for DME 7.2 and later, these codes don't really help diagnostic much if there are no other codes. Glad I asked. These could be extremely misleading for 7.2 and later. I think part of the problem is that document has a 1999 date, so it may have been correct at the time. You have to be careful with check for supplements and updates.
  22. JFP in PA
    Loctite 290 is the green wicking product.
  23. JFP in PA
    We use a 3 lb. dead blow, works fine.
  24. JFP in PA
    Glad you got it sorted, SIR is pretty good about supporting their tools.
  25. JFP in PA
    That sounds like the first version of the adaptor that also utilized and adaptor the fit into the oil drain holes as well. There is a second version that supposedly uses a smaller socket and no adaptor.
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