Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,821
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    208

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Depends upon the year of the car; which one are we talking about here?
  2. NPR, or Nippon Piston Rings, are suppliers to several of the Asian brands like Honda and Toyota. While I am sure they are a good manufacturer, I would not be skimping on such a critical item as Porsche uses it own alloy in the cylinder liners and I have no idea how compatible the rings would be or how well the NPR rings will hold up.
  3. If the alternator is only putting out 12.5V, it is definitely bad as you should be around 13.5 to 14.5V. I would also have them check the battery and starter cables which are notoriously problematic on these cars. Porsche has released updated cables to address the problem.
  4. You can start by posting in the correct forum: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14539-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/
  5. The Durametric cannot reprogram the DME, but replacing a DME usually requires some setup with a PIWIS unit so that the immobilizer, etc. are all in sync with the new unit. You cannot just pop in a new DME and go.
  6. While your thought is correct for a single compound product like DOT 4 brake fluid, it does not hold true with engine oils due to oil having a complex system of additives, some of which are just to hold the mixture togeather. This is why all oil manufacturers date mark their containers and typically suggest no more than 2-4 years shelf life (varies by brand) for unopened containers of full synthetics, less for opened ones.
  7. ATE Gold and ATE Type 200 are the same product. Once opened, brake fluids in a partially filled original container have a shelf life of around 18 months to 2 years (an opened container will start to absorb moisture from the air in the container). To be safe, you can buy brake fluid test strips you can dip into stored fluid to check its moisture content before using.
  8. I'm sure they will take car of you, they are a reputable firm. The pic above is more what I would expect as well.
  9. I think I'd get SIR on the phone and ask them about this. Only thought that comes to mind is that they may be offsetting it slightly so you can use some mechanical leverage when installing it, more as a holding tool than a timing tool. That would also explain why one end of the bar sticks out so far past the cam centerlines. I found one picture of it in use, and while somewhat at an angle, it still looks like the round exhaust part is square to the tool edge:
  10. They should line up a bit better. Have you tried to see if they will rotate in the bar? I haven't used that particular tool as I have the Porsche 9612 "blocking device" and both fixtures move on it:
  11. Assuming there was nothing wrong with the engine or its leak down values before your experiment in towel inhalation, it would be a fair assumption that the values on cylinders 3 and 4 are as the result of the clean out campaign (either residual towel, loosened carbon, or a mechanical scratch on the valve seat somewhere). As cold leak downs are notoriously inaccurate, and because you are going to be facing a major cash outlay to pull the heads off and send them out for a retread, I would be of the mind to put the car back together and light it up, assuming there is nothing visible left in any cylinder or head runners. Once warmed up, I would specifically look at the leak down of two currently weakest cylinders; if they "heal", you are back in business. If they don't, you are no worse off, or any poorer, than you are currently.
  12. My thought process keeps taking me back to this being a wiring problem ahead of the sensor rather than the sensors themselves. Below is the Porsche diagnostics process for both P0130 and 0150 (it is from the Boxster OBD II manual, but should be exactly the same on this car). If the problems persist, I suggest starting over from the beginning as we are obviously missing something:
  13. Did you check out the "M48.00/50 throttle body venturi tube tank ventilation vent line crankcase" and the "M02.2Y intake manifold 04- throttle body" parts diagrams on the Auto Atlanta website for your model year?
  14. Your photos appear to a cooling system hose, is that correct? As I cannot tell from the photos, where on the firewall were they taken? Literally every part for the vehicle is in those drawings, we just have to narrow down what you are looking for.
  15. If its technical specs match OEM, no it would not cause a problem.
  16. I've not seen them for rent, but they do pop up for sale on various Porsche forums and flea bay from time to time.
  17. If you feel you have carbon bits holding an exhaust valve open and causing the leak down issues, I would try just starting it up. Anything sitting in the exhaust valve or runner area is going to get blown into the exhaust system as soon as the engine fires. Spraying chemicals into the exhaust port is going to force the carbon bits into the cylinders where they could get down along side the pistons and potentially score the walls; I would try not to go there.
  18. The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time. I agree it is pricey, but personally I think the benefits of thorough inspection + the additional magnet are worth it. Cleaning can be done in the 5-10 mins it takes to let the oil fully drain. And if your cutting open a spin on filter, that will take time as well. The K&P only uses 1 o-ring which is located in the same spot as a normal spin on filter, where it meets the adapter. Also acts as a mini heat sink (though probably not a dramatic effect) You can also hang a FilterMag on the outside of the throw away spin on as well; many of my customers do exactly that.
  19. Well, here it was politically expedient to go to this method of "single stream" recycling, most local governments discovered that if you required the user to separate the material types, no one did it and everything just went into landfill trash. So by installing the separation hardware, the recycling was actually being used because it was simpler, just throw anything recyclable into the recycle container and the collection point facility does the rest. Actually lowered overall costs because less ended up going into the landfill. A win-win solution.
  20. Add a magnetic drain plug if you do not already have one, it helps alert you to ferrous debris if it starts to occur. I would also definitely add an IMS upgrade while doing the clutch, and also change the AOS while the tranny is out and it is in the open.
  21. Interesting. Here they no longer require separating the types of recyclable materials in most states, everything goes into a single container and the types of materials are separated by automated systems at the recovery point.
  22. The valve at the pump is a pressure regulating valve that limits the upper oil pressure reached, it is not designed to do anything if the filter becomes clogged other than control the maximum pressure. When the oil filter becomes clogged, exactly what will it be clogged with? Usually metal debris from a disintegrating engine, and running it with the metal circulating rather than tripping the oil pressure light and shutting it down will end up only worsening the already existing damage. A larger and longer term issue is that the by-pass valve sticks open all the time, so little or nothing is filtered. If you want to read more about the rational for going full flow, Excellence Magazine had a tech article that expanded on the multiple reasons to get away from the by-pass system. We have many customers, both on the street and the track, that run full flow setups and have done for years, no problems.
  23. Help me understand the "environmental" aspect of the cartridge style oil filter; both style filters use materials of construction which are totally recyclable, so how is one more "environmentally friendly" than the other? The spin on filters (Wix/NAPA "XP" filters) we use do not have paper media, but use a fully synthetic material that is both finer in pore diameter and considerably stronger than the paper style.
  24. Not really sure why Porsche used the cartridge style filter, it may be something as simple as a design they had used before and were comfortable with, or it was cheap. The by-pass valve is designed to open if the oil filter becomes completely clogged with debris or on a very cold start (0F or lower) with very thick conventional oils. The truth of the matter is that with multi weight full synthetic oils, the cold start issue has already been addressed, which is why many OEM's have totally gotten away from using by-pass systems, and even those that still use them put them into a spin on filter so you get a new valve at every oil change. And before someone asks, if your filter became totally clogged by metallic debris while running, your engine is already dead and needs to come out for rebuild or replacement, so the by-pass has become totally superfluous. The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time.
  25. Yes, they can be related. You car's lighter socket is hot at all times so it can be used to plug a battery maintainer into it. Both your nav unit and your iPhone chargers are "hot at all times when plugged in, so they are large parasitic draw items, even when the devices they power are not in the car. Both your ABS and PSM systems are hyper sensitive to voltage fluctuations, quite often when we get a customer's car in with the ABS and PSM MIL lights on, it turns out to be an electrical system problem (corroded cables, weak battery, bad alternator).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.