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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I do not believe it is related to the Techron; we have used Techron in a lot of cars for a lot of years and never had any negative issues.
  2. Depends upon what the problem is; the IMS can be changed with the engine in the car, as can a valve spring, although changing springs can be a bit time consuming.
  3. Obviously, it is hard to diagnose these issues “long distance”, but if you are indicating that the metal “flakes” can be picked up by a magnet, you have a serious issue that is not going to get better on its own. Without seeing the metal close up, I would have to say that it is probably from one of a couple of potential sources: (1) The IMS bearing. When these unit crap out, they tend to shed a lot of ferrous metal, usually as a granular material, but sometimes as flakes. If it is, you need to stop running the engine immediately as failure of the bearing will total your engine. (2) Something in the valve train such as a failing spring (not uncommon) or something in the VarioCam system. The non metal bits can be the cam tensioning “paddle” wear covers coming apart, but they can also be the IMS bearing seals breaking up as the bearing starts to wobble. You need to get the car to someone that knows these engines well, and I would suggest not driving it there.
  4. Put a magnet near them, if it picks them up, you may have a potential issue...........
  5. Very simple: The dual mass flywheel is the only torsional and harmonic dampening device on these engines; its removal can (and has) led to failures in the rotating assembly, notably crankshaft cracking and complete failures. Several of the premier Porsche engine builders will only use lightweight single mass flywheels if the entire rotating assembly (including the flywheel itself, as several have been found to be out of balance to start with) is being subjected to a full harmonic balancing prior to engine assembly. Some people will say that "they have used one with no problems"; but repeated failures indicate that they may have just been lucky. Unless you are going to balance the assembly, I'd skip the single mass lightweight unit………….
  6. You rarely can go wrong with Snap-On stuff.............often a bit pricey, but very well made. Some of mine are over 40 years old and used every day; and they still look new.
  7. Unless you like clutch chatter everytime you let the pedal up, and the potential for engine damage, I’d stay away from the aluminum one piece flywheels and stick with a dual mass. Anytime you have the clutch out is an excellent time to upgrade to the latest RMS and do the LN IMS update as well. The latest RMS appears to have ended the earlier problems, and as it costs less than $20, replacing it is a no brainer. While the LN IMS cost a bit more, it is still one of the single most important updates you can do, both from a peace of mind and resale perspective.
  8. There is a four or five wire connector for the factory phone adjacent to the passenger's footwell. Pull of the kick panel and you will see it, it contains a switched hot wire and a ground..........
  9. Looks like the connector for the factory phone................
  10. The triple square on the gearbox is a 10MM. Take a look at Snap-On’s "stubby" set, about $50 and the largest (18 MM) is less than an inch in length:
  11. I think this is what you are referring to: Plus you need the correct adaptor: It is by OTC (#3226) and sells for about $500 (plus the adaptor). The OEM Porsche unit is about $1000 and has to be built to order, so the waiting time is long.
  12. A easier, and neater, approach would be to use the bleeders on the calipers to vent off the fluid while changing out the pads. As you should be flushing the system on a regular basis anyway, doing it after swapping out pads would put your system in an optimum performance condition..................
  13. That picture explains why I could not successfully use my oil extractor to change my oil. Can you change the oil filter without first draining the oil from the pan? I too plan to send my oil to Blackstone, but would be nice not to have to do a complete oil change. Changing the filter does not drain any oil from the sump; the oil filter can simply be removed and replaced, along with the o-ring on the canister. Be sure to top up your oil to make up for what was in the filter. You should also note that the photos looking up into the sump area are after the lower baffle "box" assembly has been removed, so there is even more stuff in the way then what you are seeing here.
  14. Autohause AZ sells the activated carbon filter (Mann) for $16.53.......................
  15. First of all, for anyone out there thinking about getting an oil sample this way, don't do it. If you want an oil sample, change your filter and you will have about 1/2 quart of used oil to play with that is in the filter housing. The reason the dip sticks on these cars look like they do is that they have to twist around a lot of stuff before it gets into the oil sump. Pushing anything thicker down its pathway is tempting fate, as you discovered. As for where the rest of the tubing may end up, it would probably end up on the bottom of the oil pickup in the sump, or in the sump itself. The oil pick up has a mesh covering to prevent picking up anything solid along with the oil because the next stop would be the oil pump itself, which is a gear style unit, and therefore does not like inhaling anything but oil. Most likely, that is where the bits are. Will they casue issues long term? Maybe, maybe not. It all depends upon them getting past the mesh on the pick up and into the pump itself. You can probably get most, if not all, of the tubing bits out by pulling the sump cover and baffle system so you can see the pickup.
  16. Sorry to hear it didn't work out. Sticking Bendix drives are a common phenomenon on these cars, but if the solenoid has gone south, no amount of lubrication will fix it. Unfortunately, outside of a starter rebuilding shop, parts for these starters are difficult to come by, making replacement the common option.
  17. Bulb may be burned out........... or someone may have removed it to hide the fact it is lit.......
  18. Yes, and then it should go out...............
  19. Actually, no. Theoretically, camshaft deviation values should be zero, but in the real world they never are, and you usually end up with some weird +/- values due to tolerances or wear. Even very carefully assembled engines that have gone through very carful static cam timing show this type of discrepancy. As far as being a predictor of a pending catastrophic engine failure, the only indication that is happening that I am aware of is when the deviation values dance back and forth at an idle; or during a transition from throttle open to closed takes place. Even then, the movement of the values is quite pronounced, indicating that something that shouldn't be moving around is doing just that, usually the IMS bearing. I believe the accepted deviation value limit, VarioCam or VarioCam Plus, is +/- 6 degrees, and is based upon how far out a cam would be if it were installed one tooth off, which would be the same for either type of cam control system.
  20. The cam position sensors (one in each cam cover) are very simple to replace. They are held into the cam cover by a bolt, so all you need to do is unplug the suspect unit, undo the fastener and swap it out. This has been covered here and on other websites, so a search should generate plenty of info. The Bentley manual also covers it, with a photo as well.
  21. Yes, but you probably will need a new canister gasket (comes with the oil filter) as they should not be reused.
  22. I’ve seen M96’s with a rod or piston out do exactly what you describe; really tough luck, Byron. Are you going to tear it down and see what failed?
  23. The penetrating oil will cut through the rust and crud, but if left behind will attract dirt and moisture, getting you right back where you began. The dry Teflon spray leaves a very good dry lubricant layer that does not attract either, so it tends to last much longer. Typically, about 75% of the time we get a complaint like yours, cleaning and properly lubricating the Bendix gets the car back in service without jumping a couple hundred bucks for another starter.
  24. As much as I hate to say this, pull the starter back out again, and this time clean the Bendix drive thoroughly with a penetrating oil (PB Blaster or the like), then wipe it off, then spray the drive, and particularly the shaft area, with DuPont Dry Teflon Spray Lubricant, being sure to move the Bendix gear back and forth while spraying the Teflon. The Bendix drive gets fowled up with accumulated gunk and rust, causing the starter Bendix to not properly engage the flywheel, which is the "hum" you are hearing. Once cleaned and lubricated, the starter will engage and be happy for several years.
  25. The magnetic plug is made by LN Engineering, the folks that developed the IMS upgrade and spin on filter adaptor, and it is a worth while addition to any car. The stainless steel drain plug is an OEM item, #900-219-015-00, which Sunset Porsche carries in stock and should be used with caution as it is a lot harder than the sump cover and can easily strip the threads. The stainless plug is actually meant for use to plug an exhaust system port, but just happens to be the correct size to fit the sump. If used, you should put a dab of anti seize on it each time and only torque it to specs.
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