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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Do you have the actual code numbers?
  2. Two ways, one using a set of special cable clamp pliers: You can also unbolt the tank from the bulkhead and pull it into the trunk a bit to gain access.
  3. Here is a fairly detailed DIY from the DIY archive at the top of the page, the author chose to use an aftermarket coolant, but it would still be the same for a 50/50 OEM coolant/distilled water mix............ http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/301-996-complete-coolant-flush-diy/
  4. Have you checked the TSB archives to see if there is any information about needing to replace both pumps?
  5. I think you are going to find that many shops are reluctant to undertake an already diassembled project; there are always issuse with missing bits, broken parts, etc. that just cannot be figured into an estimate. These are never fun.........
  6. No video that I am aware of, a lot of the TSB's are available at the top of the page to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab. The TSB will tell you what it is all about and the new part numbers for the replacement parts, but it is not a tutorial on how to do it.
  7. Could be a fuel pressure issue (the 2005 has an integrated fuel filter in the pump assembly, so it cannot be changed without doing the pump). Easy to test (there is a fuel pressure test port on one fuel rail that you hook a gauge up to for testing). I would get it flat bedded to somewhere where it can be tested.
  8. To my knowledge, there is nothing in changing the battery that will trap the key in the ignition; most likely, you can get that out by moving the steering wheel back and forth while turning it. But as inserting the key activates certain systems, you should not have left it in while disconnecting the battery. Work on getting the key out, make sure everything is turned off, and reconnect the battery; you should be fine.
  9. Moe often than not, problems associated with heat are cable related rather than battery or alternator (in fact, the battery actually becomes more powerful with heat). Usually, loose cable ends, and/or high resistance in the cables from internal corrosion, cause poor cranking or low voltage when hot problems. 996's are infamous for this, and I believe there is a TSB about updated cables to address this specific issue. Not an expensive fix, but requires a bit of time due to how the cables are routed. Heat can also impact the voltage regulator if it is already weak. Fortunately, the regulator is a $40-50 item (get it from VW or online rather than the dealer) and an easy swap with alternator already out. You could have your alternator shop test the entire system and replace what is required as well. We prefer the highest CCA you can throw at the car, simply because it controls how the car will spin over, particularly in the cold. Our standard recommendation for CCA is the 800 amp Optima's.
  10. Try 7198 or 7288
  11. Try 9627. You can find the "how to" either in your owner's manual or on Becker's website.
  12. There is a specific forum for radio code requests, please use it................... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14539-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/page-310?hl=radio#entry232891
  13. Actually, Porsche uses a bridge bar above the engine to slightly lift and support it until a cradle that bolts to the engine is attached from below to lower the engine out of the car; Use of a jack is an aftermarket adaptation to circumvent spending the money for the specialized tools. That said, I see no reason you cannot swap out the housing without pulling the engine, but you are going to have to remove some stuff and support the engine from above to get at it: As mentioned above, this is also an excellent time to carefully check out the oil pump for signs of wear, replace it if necessary, add the chrome molly replacement pump drive from LN (the OEM drive is a known weak point and is an engine killer when it fails, so the $20 or so for the bullet proof replacement is cheap insurance). As the cooling system is open, this is also an excellent time for the LN 160F stat and a new water pump as you are already in there.
  14. First of all, anyone that uses a hollow alloy water jacket casting as a jacking or lifting point is clearly out of their mind, they crack very easily. Secondly, in order to get a good weld bead (Mig or Tig) on this alloy part, it needs to be immaculately clean and dry, which means taking it out of the car to be prepped. At that point, it would probably be cheaper as well as a better idea to just toss it an install a new housing.
  15. Yes, it should be pink/orange in color; in about 2002-2003, Porsche reformulated their coolant and the color changed from green to the pink/orange version. Both types are fully compatible with each other and can be mixed without issue.
  16. Only if there is a problem with the existing coolant (e.g.: wrong coolant added, coolant contaminated, very dirty, etc.), otherwise dump the system (you will only get around 90-95% of it out without taking most of the car apart, so don't be overly concerned about how much drains), then refill (highly recommend doing so under vacuum) with premixed Porsche coolant and distilled water (very important) at a 50/50 ratio. You will be good to go for a long time.
  17. From what I understand, the low voltage of the 9V will barely illuminate the lights. The trick here is to not take all day changing the battery, which should allow the 9V to hold the settings without crapping out in the process. I know the maintainer keep them illuminated, but it has a lot more voltage available.
  18. I would not be hooking a high amperage battery to do this, beside being dangerous, it is totally unnecessary. There are cheap aftermarket "dongles" that plug into the lighter socket and will maintain the settings using a common 9V household battery (low amperage) that sell for less than $10. Some of the better battery maintainers, notably Ctek, have a setting to do the same thing using the maintainer.
  19. If all you are going to do is change the level sensor, no, you do not need to drain it..............
  20. Depending upon your year and model, you may not have to drain anything to change the level sensor (it is on the outside of the tank, yellow arrow):
  21. The Denso IK20 is correct, as is the Bosch part number.
  22. Good catch, I was thinking of the Boxster engine which changed later........................... :eek:
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