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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. No, I run a shop, and we change them for a living. The give away here is that you bought the filter from a dealer, who had to ask you your year and model as there are more than one style filter for the 996 based upon model type (they mount in different places). To be fair, the other dealers probably forgot the cut off date for the change over to the integrated style. And, as a matter of fact, there is a DIY to cover replacing the filter yourself in model years up to 2001, it can be found in the DIY section at the top of this page.
  2. Sorry but that is not correct information; 2002 and later cars have the filter integrated with the pump, the earlier cars had seperate filters that are replaceable...........................
  3. Would be interesting to know as the writers of some of the VW software have repeatedly said the two systems are far too different for one diagnostic software to work on the other, but rumors persist that some functions are accessible on the Cayenne using the VW system. Considering the relationship between VW and Porsche, not to mention the vast similarities between the Touareg and Cayenne, that some cross over would be possible. But in any case, the PIWIS and Durametric do work on all Porsche models, including the Cayenne.
  4. All Porsche models with "service interval alert" systems require either the PIWIS or Durametric system, nothing else works that I am aware of, although I have been hearing that with some of the later VW software may be capble of doing it on the Cayenne (only), but I have not been able to confirmed that.
  5. The back light switch is part of the main switch sector on the side of the transmission.
  6. Cleaing the cable ends won't do, the corrosion is inside the cable end, between it and the cable (and often in the cable as well). I'm pretty sure there is a TSB on it in the "DIY Tools" archives (contributing members).
  7. These bleeder valves can be "rebuilt" with some relatively cheap OEM parts, and if memory serves, someone did a write up on the process a while back. The biggest potential problem, aside from getting at it, is removing the eight bolts that hold the assembly together, they have a tendency to snap off if they get corroded, and then it is “tank time”.............
  8. With the engine running at idle, the alternator output should be in the 13.8-14.5V range. There is a TSB on the car concerning high resistance cables (both positive or ground) which can cause all sorts of problems (hard start/no start particularly when warm, dimming lights, weird MIL indications such as PSM or ABS faults when none exsist, etc.). Many times the cable ends look awful due to built up corrosion. The cables are not outrageously expensive, but they are a bit of a pain to install because of the way they run around the engine bay.
  9. I think you may have missed the point of some of the responses as well; many people have tried many different exhaust components on these cars, only to discover that the factory pieces are not all that bad. In cases where before and after dyno runs were done by a totally independent and reputable dyno shop rather than the company making the exhaust components, some very expensive hardware has been shown to not only fail to increase power output, but in many cases actually reduced it. Then there is the well-known resonance problems caused by some aftermarket exhausts, which range from merely annoying to headache inducing din. There is absolutely nothing wrong with looking at ways to extract more performance from your car, just be sure to do your own research and take the manufacturer’s claims with a grain of salt………………
  10. Your running voltage sounds a bit low, at speed it should be more like 14V. Suggest having the alternator checked out, could just be a dying voltage regulator, but it could also be something more in the alternator.
  11. The diagram covers "all layouts", so it can be confusing. Yours should be 25 & 26. Not bad to get at, just don't mix the sensors up, they are different (longer or shorter harnesses).
  12. Sorry but the OEM OBD II diagnostics manual for your car lists P0430 as "conversion too low on the three way", or main cat on cylinder bank 4-6 (bank #2), it is not the pre-cat. The OBD II manual's solution in the decision tree if code P0430 persists is "replace three way catalytic converter". Try checking the main cat on bank #2 for temperature, if it is lower than exepected, you are in the market for a new three way on bank #2. You can also reverse the O2 sensors side for side to see if the code changes to a P0420, which would be the same issue, but now on bank #1, which would be indicative of a sensor issue rather than the cat itself. Be sure you test this thoroughly, because the three way is one very expensive part..............
  13. True enough, but a main cat that is running substantially colder than expected is usually a good sign of a problem with the cat. More often than not, when we see a P0430/0420, it traces to an O2 sensor issue more often than the cat itself, which is why I implied that the OP should be sure they check out before even bothering to check the cat temps.
  14. First of all, P0430 on your car is not the pre-cat, it is the larger main cat (called the "three way") on cylinder bank 4-6. Assuming you have tested the O2 sensors before and after the three way, and that they are in working order, the main cat should be running at greater than 386 C (727 F).
  15. The first thing I would do would be to get a can of spray electrical contact cleaner and try cleaning out the buckles thoroughly (a build up of crud inside them makes for poor electical contact), that often does the trick, and it is cheap. Just make sure everything is electrically dead first by disconnecting the battery.
  16. Some owners of the early 986's have gone through more than one set of seat belt buckles; it is a commonly known issue.
  17. Which part number in the diagram is broken? The part number you gave is for a $1,500 tank assembly...............
  18. Stant makes both a great kit, and adaptors for just about anything (we have two Stant’s in the shop). Reasonably priced, built like a tank: http://www.stant.com/repository/documents/12270.pdf Late model VW, Audi, and Porsche adaptors are all the same.
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