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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The clutch can be replaced by itself, but you will need a special tool to get it off.
  2. They are totally different cars; the Turbo has “the look” and can lay on gobs of power, but some of it is lost to the Tip. The 4S does not have as much raw power, but is a very refined handler and can still be a blast to drive, plus the PDK is a huge improvement over the Tip. Depends upon where you head is at...........
  3. There is a neutral safety switch that prevents starting the car in gear; the unit is pricey (about $300) and a bit of a bear to get at (very littlle room under the car, plus a cat is in the way). Yours sounds like it is on the way out (not uncommon):
  4. No. The only way to clear the air bag light is with a PIWIS or the Durametric system; no other aftermarket unit will do it.
  5. Problem with cleaning up an intermix is that each one is different, so they are typically quoted on a “time and materials” basis; it could be a couple hundred dollars, or a lot more depending upon how long the car was run in that condition, which makes the clean up much more difficult, plus time and materials consuming………..
  6. We generally replace the serpentine belts whenever we are doing any work that requires releasing it, regardless of how the belt looks. On a mileage basis, we swap them out at around 30K miles, purely as a precautionary measure. The belt is cheap, usually less than $30 retail, and easy to replace. On the other hand, loosing it can strand you, or could end up costing you an engine. On an 8 year old car, I would definitely replace it. I would also suggest carrying the used belt in the boot as a spare, as a replacement can sometimes be hard to find quickly at 2AM...........
  7. Be very careful guys, this is the exact type of behavior that Porsche has frowned upon in the past, and have gone ballistic on the perpetrators of to protect what they see as their intellectual property....................
  8. If you are using a top quality full synthetic oil of an appropriate viscosity, aftermarket additives’ are a total waste of money. Most are short term “band-aid” products that do little if anything good. Some can actually have a negative effect on the oil itself.
  9. The moment the seller starts telling you the limits on how and where you can have the car inspected before buying it, it is time for a hasty exit, stage right......................
  10. Do your self, and your car, an enormous favor: Next oil change, send out a sample of your "relatively new" oil for analysis; then you will understand why this does not work; and why you should be changing out all the oil sooner...............
  11. You should be thinking more in the direction of shortening the intervals. UOA's on oils show that they do not have a prayer for making 15K miles, the oil is sheared to death, the additive package is long dead, the oil is contaminated with all sorts of crud (dirt, fuel, acids, etc.). Using a really good full synthetic (no, I am not going to engage in an oil brand/weight war, so don't even think about it), the best you are going to get before the oil is toast is in the realm of 5-7K miles. Change it more frequently, not less..............
  12. I would not buy the cats both dying at the same time until you fix the air injection system and the car stays free of the associated codes. If the cat codes come back, then you may have a cat issue, but I have never seen both cats go out simultaneously; they don’t crap out all that often one at a time, much less both of them at once. But if the cat codes do return, without the air injection codes, they are probably toast.
  13. If an O2 sensor is ever in question, there are a series of pass/fail electrical test for the sensor and its heater that should be done before replacing them. If the sensor passes, there is nothing wrong with it, the issue lies elsewhere. P0420 and 0430 indicate that the three way cats on both banks are bad, which is very odd to say the least as they rarely die, much less do it in unison. Add in the codes for issues with the secondary air injection system, which will impact the cat’s performance, and I would say they appear connected. The air injections system on these cars is infamous for all sorts of issues ranging from component failure (particularly the change over valve), to blocked air lines (easy to fix), vacuum leaks, to totaled air pumps. While none of this stuff is exactly cheap, and entirely new secondary air system, installed by the slowest and most outrageously priced Porsche dealer on Earth, is not going to set you back what the three way cats are going to do. And replacing the cats is not going to fix the secondary air issue. Do some searching and look into the air system, it ain’t happy……….
  14. Congratulations on spending both time and money on the wrong things. P0420 and 0430 point to three way cat conversion being too low on both cylinder banks; they have nothing to do with the O2 sensors performance. P0410 and 1411 indicate the secondary air injection system failure (P0410 indicates the air injection pump is not triggering, P1411 likewise indicates the secondary air pump is not working properly due to air line restriction, failed change over valve or vacuum leaks). I would be willing to bet all of the codes are related to the secondary air system malfunction. Don’t dread codes, be thankful for them and research what they are telling you; while they point you in the correct direction much like a compass; they require an application of diagnostic logic for them to get you to your destination, much as a GPS would……………
  15. The link Loren provided is for the unit that includes adaptors for everything from lawn tractors and motorcycles to your Porsche; we use the UView tools on literally every water cooled vehicle that comes into the shop.
  16. Like most OEM's Porsche prefers to refill these systems under vacuum to eliminate any air pockets, which can be very problematic in alloy cased and headed engines. Some DIY'ers say that you can do it without vacuum, but the vacuum system leak tests the entire system, refills the system, prevents any retained air, does it all in about 5 min., and does not require any future coolant level top up, so it is hard to argue with. We use vacuum on literally everything that comes through the shop. We premix the Porsche OEM coolant (only) with equal amounts of distilled water (only), then refill the system. The vacuum tool will cost you about $100, as long as you do not buy it from Porsche...........
  17. The flex conenctor has taken a "heat set" to the metal on the throttle body. When we get one of these, patients and a little persuasion in usually all that is required.................
  18. To fit the larger cross-drilled “S” rotors, you will need different calipers as well as the rotors, as the rotors are both larger in diameter, but are also thicker as well. The base calipers will not work. Fitting the “S” rotors to the rear is even more problematic as you would need to swap out the suspension carrier hubs as well as the rotors and calipers, which is both time consuming and expensive. As for some “online kit” that uses an adaptor under the caliper to space it outward for a larger diameter rotor, well that sounds like a death wish waiting to happen……
  19. Glad to hear it was sorted and nothing particularly serious; when a car is running that poorly, you really do not want to try driving it long distances. You made the correct choice.
  20. Let us know how this comes out; with all the misfires, you are better off to be safe rather than sorry……………
  21. According to the OBD II diagnostics manual the O2 code (P0130) is an electrical fault code, meaning that the sensor is not in the correct voltage range, or is shorted. The sensor and its heater need to be checked for the correct voltage readings, and the wiring harness and connectors need to be looked at and tested for continuity, presence of shorts to ground, and the correct voltages. If the sensor fails the test, it needs to be replaced. If the sensor voltages are correct, and the wiring is OK, the next stop is check the DME, which may have developed a fault. As for driving the car, that is up to you. Without "eyes and hands on", and electrical test of the sensor and harness, I really have no way to advise you on how to proceed. As I mentioned, I have not seen an O2 sensor force an entire bank of cylinders to misfire simultaneously, and if it starts doing that again, it would be both a very long journey and would probably cause collateral damage to the car as well......
  22. In general, bad O2 sensors do on cause a car to misfire, which you seem to have on all cylinders on one side of the engine. The O2 sensor code, however, can be the result of this type misfire event.
  23. Without knowing what the codes are, you have no idea if or when it is going to start blinking again. You don't need a PIWIS or Durametric system, any OBD II compliant scanner will tell you exactly what is going on. From your first post, it sounds like the car went into "limp" mode (the DME sets a relatively low engine RPM limit to prevent doing more damage), that usually does not happen without a damned good reason.................... If it were my car, I’d have it scanned before I did anything else. You could very well get a few kilometers down the road, out in the middle of nowhere, and it could start flashing, or worse.
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