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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The cam position sensors (one in each cam cover) are very simple to replace. They are held into the cam cover by a bolt, so all you need to do is unplug the suspect unit, undo the fastener and swap it out. This has been covered here and on other websites, so a search should generate plenty of info. The Bentley manual also covers it, with a photo as well.
  2. Yes, but you probably will need a new canister gasket (comes with the oil filter) as they should not be reused.
  3. I’ve seen M96’s with a rod or piston out do exactly what you describe; really tough luck, Byron. Are you going to tear it down and see what failed?
  4. The penetrating oil will cut through the rust and crud, but if left behind will attract dirt and moisture, getting you right back where you began. The dry Teflon spray leaves a very good dry lubricant layer that does not attract either, so it tends to last much longer. Typically, about 75% of the time we get a complaint like yours, cleaning and properly lubricating the Bendix gets the car back in service without jumping a couple hundred bucks for another starter.
  5. As much as I hate to say this, pull the starter back out again, and this time clean the Bendix drive thoroughly with a penetrating oil (PB Blaster or the like), then wipe it off, then spray the drive, and particularly the shaft area, with DuPont Dry Teflon Spray Lubricant, being sure to move the Bendix gear back and forth while spraying the Teflon. The Bendix drive gets fowled up with accumulated gunk and rust, causing the starter Bendix to not properly engage the flywheel, which is the "hum" you are hearing. Once cleaned and lubricated, the starter will engage and be happy for several years.
  6. The magnetic plug is made by LN Engineering, the folks that developed the IMS upgrade and spin on filter adaptor, and it is a worth while addition to any car. The stainless steel drain plug is an OEM item, #900-219-015-00, which Sunset Porsche carries in stock and should be used with caution as it is a lot harder than the sump cover and can easily strip the threads. The stainless plug is actually meant for use to plug an exhaust system port, but just happens to be the correct size to fit the sump. If used, you should put a dab of anti seize on it each time and only torque it to specs.
  7. Most likely a sticking Bendix drive on the front of the starter; a common problem on these cars. An easy fix, pull the starter and clean the drive with a good penetrating oil, wipe off and then spray with DuPont Dry Teflon spray lubricant; starter will work for years without issue…………
  8. No, if anything, the issue is worse as they went to a large diameter IMS bearing which still fails, but cannot be replaced without total disassembly of the engine.
  9. The 2.7L engine is still an M96, exactly same as the “S” or a 911 variant; it is just in a Boxster. That said, if you can find a car (996, 986, and 987) built 2005 or earlier, you can up grade the IMS and prevent any further issues.
  10. This is a common issue caused by the Bendix drive on the starter nose sticking due to rust or crud build up. Pull the starter and clean the Bendix with something like PB Blaster (penetrating oil), then dry off and spray with DuPont Dry Teflon spray. You will be fine to go for years to come…………
  11. Contact Actron, they have two testers for fuel that retail for around $40, and ask if they have the correct adaptor for this application. If they do, that will probably be your cheapest out as everyone else is way over $100 for what you need. And don't even think about buying tools from Porsche, they are just plain nuts on pricing.......
  12. Is this where I ask if I have posted yet? Yes, I am aware that the photo is a lightweight wheel, which is why I originally asked if he had the factory or an aftermarket flywheel. The stock wheel can still have problems in this area as well if something comes adrift inside the bell housing, like a bolt head or piece of clutch facing, and starts banging around and buggering up the factory shutter elements. There is very little room between the sensor and the shutter, otherwise the sensor would not generate a signal; and if anything solid tries to get between the sensor and the flywheel, or causes a burr to develop on an element, usually leads to needing at least a new sensor.
  13. The CPS is a simple “Hall Effect” sensor; it is located near a shutter wheel (on the back of the flywheel) that creates a signal when the shutter passes near the sensor. This is also the way the old “electronic” distributors worked when cars still actually had distributors (God, am I dating myself). The following picture shows the shutter assembly on the rear of the flywheel, and you will note the bent shutter prong near the center. As the shutter is pretty close to the sensor, there is not a lot of room. One individual actually had a fastener come loose inside the bell housing and whack the sensor as well. Your starter noise is very common, pull it and clean the Bendix drive, then lubricate it with a dry DuPont Teflon spray lube and you will be back in business.
  14. Several manufacturer’s (including Asian and Europeans) no longer allow “field servicing” of their transmissions, particularly automatics, preferring to swap them out for a “factory rebuilt” unit. As the result, parts are very hard to find, if you can find them at all. The explanations’ for why they do this range from “specialized tooling/fixtures are required”, to “extremely tight tolerances require highly trained personnel and equipment”. Whether or not these explanations’ are total malarkey or not is obviously in the eye of the beholder, but it has made working on the transmissions nearly impossible. Recently, an out of warranty Nissan Altima with a pretty bad fluid leak in the bell housing area required a $2700 replacement transmission (parts only) because there are absolutely no parts available (other than replacement fluid) for the type of trans that was in the car.
  15. The coolant system is designed to operate at about 18.2 PSIG for optimal cooling performance. The early caps often did not get the system up to that pressure, or lost the ability over time, causing slow loss of coolant. That said, running a car with a leaking coolant tank is asking for a problem. These tanks have been known to fail catastrophically, stranding the car and requiring flat bedding; or even worse, overheating the engine which led to other, more severe and often permanent issues. Even slow leaks can cause “hot spots” in what is already a system that operates way too hot to begin with. If you have a leaking tank, replace it as soon as possible; don’t try and “band-aid” the problem.
  16. Correct assembly of the M96/97 engine requires a significant amount of specialized single use tooling, as well as very specific knowledge or access to the OEM engine manuals, both of which are expensive and not always easy to find. I know of no way to get around these issues. Individuals that have successfully assembled their own engines have either purchased all of the necessary equipment and tooling, or fabricated their own. If you do not have access to the tools and the correct assembly information, you are heading for a disaster. This is why no Porsche dealers, either in Romania or the USA, assemble or rebuild engines; they just put in new ones they get from Porsche. Here in North America, there are only a handful of shops that can do this type of work.
  17. I would proceed very cautiously on this. Some individuals have had good luck with aftermarket warranties’, many have not. A lot of people have been burned by extended warranties that ultimately turned out to be worthless when they need it. The industry is rife with fly-by-night companies that go out of business regularly and then reopen under a different name the next day. A lot of shops, mine included, will not do business with any of the aftermarket warranty companies as they are very slow payers and try to dictate how much can be charged for a given repair.
  18. Yes, the gas is definitely an issue as it will gum up the injectors; you need to drain the tank, flush it, and then purge the system to get rid of the old stuff. And people ask why they should use fuel stabilizer...... The crank position sensor reads from a shutter wheel on the back of the flywheel; if the sensor goes out, it usually throws a code.
  19. Change the oil and filter; a good time to get rid of the Mobil 1 as well................
  20. Possible purge valve problem in the EVAP system (behind the fender liner, passenger's side front wheel well). Do a search, this comes up from time to time.......
  21. Sign in a local repair shop: Labor Rate: $100/Hr. If you watch: $125/Hr. If you help: $175/Hr. If you already worked on it: $225/Hr.
  22. All crank position sensors are simple Hall Effect units, only questions are does it have the correct electrical specs (resistance, etc.) to match the OEM, is it the correct length (critical), and are the connectors the same (does not look like it in the photo)...................
  23. P1341 indicates that the CPS or VarioCam unit on bank 1 may have issues. A PST II/PIWIS/Durametric system can verify some diagnostics before moving forward. All of these systems can actuate the VarioCam solenoid (often the issue) without the engine running; if the solenoid does not actuate, the course of repair is obvious. If the solenoid does work, you may have either a dying CPS or a wiring issue. You are not going to locate the 9675 “special tool” (called a pin out box), which cost over $800 and need to come from Germany, so don’t bother trying to locate one. Any testing or electrical issues can be corrected using common sense and a good digital multi meter which costs less than $50 and is always a useful addition to any tool box. Should you get it fixed? Yes, this is not going to get better on its own, and can lead to other problems as well. The will also not pass emissions inspection in most states in this condition either.
  24. Yes, sparingly, and only quality products, like Techron................
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