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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Yes, the light will go out when the fault is removed.
  2. First of all, in many states, more and more insurance companies are denying all diminished value claims; some are even requiring the insured party (you) to sign a waiver for any future claims as a pre requirement before issuing or renewing your policy. Their stance is that insurance is there to “make you whole”, and when the car is repaired, you are “whole” again, and diminished value claims are “enriching” you, not making you whole. As for taking the other party to court, that is always your right, but be very prepared for a fight as I'm sure they will defer the claim to their insurance carrier, who has an entire building full of lawyers that are just waiting for this to happen.............. No one really likes the way insurance works, but these cases are rapidly becoming “test cases” for state insurance regulators.
  3. unless bearings went bad the only thing that can break in alternator is a voltage regulator. $40 on ebay. 1-1.5 hours to take it out. I thought Porsche maintainer is a CTEK maintainer (old versions) with Porshe sticker on it. The very first Porsche maintainer (black in color) was not by Ctek, they came later.
  4. Be very careful about online PIWIS clones, while some are actually ripped off copies of early versions of the real software, many are early versions of the Durametric (or other non useful software). Porsche takes a really dim view of people that sell copies what they see as their intellectual property, and tend to come down very hard on them. While a real PIWIS system lease is way outside the price range of all but the most dedicated individuals (well north of $15,000 for the first year), the Durametric software and cable is very good, reasonably priced at about $300, and affords you all future updates as well. Just a thought..............
  5. We toyed around with the "man invents tool" approach for this, then settled on using a crows foot at a right angle on an inch pound torque wrench for the nut (no torque setting adjustment required), and a slotted screw attachment adaptor to 3/8 ratchet drive (Sears) on the center bolt, which gives on person sufficient grip and leverage by simply using both hands. Never had a problem with this setup.
  6. While Loren is correct on the pad wear sensors, you can also get a MIL warning light if the fluid level gets a bit low, which is both easy to check and remedy by adding fluid if it is down.
  7. I believe Loren is correct. It is common for the alarm system to go into fault mode when the battery is changed out.
  8. P0446 is the code thrown when the EVAP canister purge air line is blocked. Usually just needs a compressed air blow out of the purge air line. The same code can also be thrown if the EVAP canister itself becomes totally blocked, but that happens very rarely.
  9. You could start by posting in the correct forum: Lost Radio Code - post your request here
  10. Must be time for new glasses; I misread the model year.................. :eek:
  11. Most probable is you have a VarioCam actuator on the way out, there was a recent poster with the exact same issue and it was tracked down to the actuator. On the down side, this can be a bit expensive if a dealer does it; I think his all in bill was around $6K. May be a good time to find a quality indy in your area.................
  12. The combination of overheating and water in the oil can be devastating, but without physically being able to look at or test the car, it is impossible to say what damage has been done. You need to do two things, pronto: One, get the contaminated oil out of the engine ASAP, being sure to also change the filter. Two, do not start the car until the cooling system as been properly refilled, and this will mean the use of a vacuum system because you do not want to run the car until the cooling system is ready to function. Then you can start purging the water out of the engine oil system. Put a fresh filter and a full load of oil in it before starting it, then let it run at idle until fully warm, then bring the RPM’s up to about 1,500-2,000 for about 30 seconds. Let it idle again, shut it off and drain the oil and change the filter again. Repeat the oil refill and filter, repeat the warm up and low engine speed run. Shut the car off and pull your dipstick looking for the classic “hot chocolate” look in the oil. If you find it, repeat the oil change again until the oil stays looking like oil and not an emulsion with water. Once the oil stays clean, take the car for a long, but casual drive to get it hot and allow the crankcase evacuation system to remove any remaining moisture. Only time will tell what else may have happened…………..
  13. OK, the no end of confusion with the Tip refill stems from the fact that there are two apparent drain plugs on the bottom of the pan. One (usually slightly smaller in size)is acutually the drain, the other is the fill port. The fill port has a riser tube mounted in it that extends upwards into the trans a bit so that as your refill it, the fluid does not come back out until it reaches the top of the tube. The factory refill setup has a flexible plastic end on it that is bent into an inverted "J" shape, so that the tool can be inserted up into the tube and then pops over the top edge so that the new fluid is flowing downwards towards the pan.
  14. You might be interested in the fact that the center bolt failure we saw was not the only one we are aware of, there have been at least two or three more, all were factory engines that had never been apart. Two of the bolt failures involved bearing failures as well the the center bolt, all of which failed at or very near the under cut area. I am not aware of any of the LN style center bolts failing, even on the very small number of bearings that have had problems.
  15. We have actually seen a 986 that suddenly shut off while at a traffic light, was complaining of a large oil leak under the engine (it was huge) and some strange noises in the transmission area. What we found was part of the IMS center bolt had snapped off where it necks down for the oring, and was lying in the bottom of the bell housing. Prior this this happening, the car had been fine. While the engine was damaged due to valve to piston contact, the IMS bearing was rather loose, but otherwise seemed OK.
  16. Actron makes an real fuel pressure test setup (CP 7838) that works perfectly and has adaptors so it can fit just about anything with throttle body or port fuel injection systems. List price is less than $60, but you can easily find one for about $35-40.
  17. Two things to look at: (1) Look at your crank position sensor (mounted on bell housing). When the CPS starts to go bad, the DME does not see the engine turning over and does not turn on the fuel and ignition, so the car will not start. The car will also not thow any codes when this happens. (2) Check your fuel pressure and delivery volumes. The pressure test is quick (there is a metric shrader valve on the fuel rail that a test guage attaches to) and relatively inexpensive if you do not have the equipment to do it yourself. I the pressure is in range, check for delivery volume; the car needs both to run correctly. If either (or both) the pressure and volume are low, it could be the fuel filter on the early cars, or a bad fuel pump.
  18. For the most part, that is correct because the action of the dying bearing overloads it. But there have also been cases where the bolt let go and the bearing was still in reasonable shape.
  19. " Correct me if I am wrong, but there are some savings by Casper using oem parts (support and center stud). This is great if there are no issues. Has anyone ever heard of any issues with the support and stud? Is this just a bearing problem and the support and stud are fine? If that is the case then Casper could be a good choice. " LN increased the size of the center bolt to add strength, and removed the OEM under cut for the oring (LN relocated the oring to the flange) as the center bolt has been known to fail by breaking at that point:
  20. The Pelican bearing has some other "interesting" elements as well: It is an all steel OEM style replacment with grease and seals. It also only comes in one size, but includes spacers to make up the difference of the larger bearing if the car was a dual row style. It supposedly will sell for $165.
  21. Check your crank position sensors; it is in the bellhousing because it reads off the flywheel. When the CPS goes bad, the DME does not see the engine turning over, so it does not turn on the fuel and ignition and the car won't start; because DME sees nothing wrong, no codes.......
  22. I also checked your data against 35 UoA's pulled at random from our data base, coming exclusively from Turbo's over a period of 3 years; while your VI, 40C, and 100C viscosities look like nearly fresh oil, and your TBN values looks equally good, the average of the reports I pulled at random are a mere fraction of those values after an average of less than 4,000 miles. I also see much higher fuel and water intrusion values as well, which I would expect from a Turbo car.
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