JFP in PA

I would check to make sure you reconnected the coil packs, both completely plugging them in, and not having crossed any.

The correct filter dimensions are 113 MM height, 65 MM outside diameter, 24 MM inside diameter. If the filter they sent you does not match these, do not use it.

It sounds like something is not connected in the door you worked on, which can disable the remote. I would start with checking what you took apart.

You should be running the car one or two bars below the full mark on the electronic display. I would also seriously consider replacing the AOS unit with a new factory unit, they are known for not liking liquid oil in the diaphragm area of the AOS system. I also am not aware of any atmospheric "vent" in the AOS, so check to make sure something is not connected properly.

Glad it straightened out and passed. As I said above, I have seen some of the early cars go some distance before coming around, but you now officially hold the mileage record for this, so congratulations 🙃

Just follow the brown wires. I would start by checking the ground terminal inside the light and see if it has continuity to ground using a multimeter.

Simple: Replace them all.

Most common problem for this is poor or non existent grounds (usually a brown wire).

Some of the early cars had a real problem getting the IM Readiness test "not ready" status to change without resorting to the PIWIS, even after all the necessary repairs have been completed. I have personally seen cars go more that 200 miles of daily drive cycles before the system switched to "ready", but I have never seen or heard for one going 2,400 miles. I would have to agree with Loren on this one; something is still not right. If the O2 sensor ahead of the cats goes to a straight line zero, or near zero voltage while the SAI pump is running, the system is functional. Before repair After repair

Jake's company is Flat Six Innovations, and has done all of the development work for M96/97 component's for LN Engineering , which is owned by Charles Navarro. Jake does complete engine rebuilds, from mild to wild, and only sells educational materials such as the DVD mentioned, as well as the only existing complete engine torque spec manuals in print, but Flat Six no longer sells any hardware, only complete engines. LN manufactures and sells all the hardware (Nickies cylinder liners, IMS retrofits, piston sets, etc.), and also sells Jakes torque manuals which are excellent reference sources. LN will also provide machine shop services such as installing all new Nickies cylinder liners.

There are just too many things that could be wrong as you really do not know what happened to it during its tenure in the automotive class, or before it even got there, anyone of which could reduce it to a boat anchor in one Hell of a hurry. Always better safe than sorry. Good luck with your project.

You are in the correct forum. Before putting an engine that has been used in class for years, I would be prone to pull it apart to make sure everything is there and no one has dropped a screw or nut into the internals. An engine that has been dormant that long may also have corrosion built up on the crank journals from sitting.

Welcome to RennTech PIWIS is the Porsche factory diagnostics system, and is only available as a lease for $20,000 for the first year.

The 1997 to 1999 Boxsters had two microswitches. One of those two microswitches was the black lever microswitch, which is mounted on top of a bracket that surrounds the electric motor. The bracket is also covered by a black plastic cover with a slot on top of it where the black lever pops up. The electric drive motor for the convertible top is located directly in front of the third brake light, on the rear wall of the convertible top well. This switch stops the electric motor when the top is down. The second switch is on the drivers side B pillar and is the one that turns the dash light off. It is a simple on/off switch that can be tested with a multimeter.

On a 99 Boxster, the top down limit switch is on the rear of the driver's side B pillar.

What year is the car? The red clip is also depressing the limit switch in the top catch, which also activates the sensors.

Welcome to RennTech From the sounds of it, the company in CA sent you a different unit which does not recognize your keys. You need to either get your original unit back from them, or you are about to spend a lot of money for keys, immobilizer, and programing at your local Porsche dealer. These units cannot simply be swapped, they have to be programmed to match the car and keys.

It is either that, or your top limit switch has failed. The red clip only came on cars with the factory hardtop.

Do you have the red clip installed where the convertible top latch normally goes:

Welcome to RennTech The DME MUST be the correct one for the car, and the car’s keys, immobilizer, and DME must all be coded to work together. That will require access to the PIWIS system to complete, after which you will need to address all of the car’s system control modules to get everything successfully talking to each other.

Doesn't happen because the car the family is in had a 700-800CCA or so battery with loads of current reserve. But with a lightweight battery with limited current reserves (read amperage), it would definitely be a possibility given enough time.

I would not bet on that, modern load testing equipment can load test the alternator in the car, and can even test the diodes' with it in there. Units can be pricey, often $4K (US) or more, but will test the entire system.

Sorry, but no, voltage and amperage out put of the alternators in question were dead on rated spec for the vehicle involved, and remained so under load; the weak spot was the amperage reserve, not the voltage reserve, in the battery during periods of high demand. 😉

No one here is "demeaning" your postings. Our intent is to help people with problems, and provide some educational context for all readers to consider when considering potential purchase decisions. My comment on headlights dimming was a real world experience that has occurred more than once when customers with light weight Li batteries brought cars into the shop complaining of these problems. Subsequent testing showed their charging systems were performing completely within normal specs, but when the AC clicked on, or a strong base section hit the stereo system, the lights dimmed because the available reserve amperage capacity of the battery was not up to the conditions. To demonstrate to the customer where the problem actually was, we put a brand new 800 CCA AGM battery in the car at no charge to the customer, with the agreement that they would return in a day or two to tell me what happened. In every case, they came back and said the problems had disappeared immediately and did not reoccur, and most purchased the battery we had installed for them. Those that did not purchase the replacement battery at least left the shop understanding why the problem happened, and in every case remained a good client with a better understanding of their cars. As for race cars, as another poster mentioned above, they have relatively very low power draw when out on the track, so a light weight battery with enough current output to run the few electronics use is sufficient. But when the car pulls into the pits and has to shut off for refueling or tires as required by the sanctioning body, the light weight Li battery was not up to spinning over the hot, high compression engine under restart, so they would plug in a high output conventional battery to get it going again. Under those conditions, reserve amperage capacity momentarily become critical, and demonstrates the limitations of lightweight batteries. At the end of the day, it is your car and your money. The battery you installed may serve you needs well in the climate you reside it, but for someone living in northern Montana, where the snow is already on the ground and daytime high temps are in the mid teens Fahrenheit, it might not be such a good idea. So context becomes important.

The Li battery business is suffering from a similar problem that the light bulb business had when switch from incandescent to LED. People had long associated bulb wattage with light level output, even thought wattage was actually measure of how much energy the bulb consumed and heat it generates rather than light output levels. So when consumers saw that an LED replacement for a 7 watt night light bulb only used 1.3 watts of power, their immediate assumption was that the LED would be much dimmer in light output than the incandescent bulb, which was anything but correct; and that stalled acceptance of the LED replacements for a period of time. Fortunately, there was another widely accepted scientific standard for light output: Lumens So when comparing replacement bulbs, consumers discovered that a 25 watt incandescent bulb and a 3 watt LED bulb both produced 130 lumen, meaning they were equally as bright, and that a 40 watt incandescent had the same lumens as a 5 watt LED, consumers now had a sound and reproduceable way of relating the product specs to their needs. Unfortunately, no such relatable second scientific measure currently exists for comparing conventional batteries to Li based units amperage performance under the same conditions. As as shown by the comments I quoted above, even within Li battery manufacturers there is no mutually agreed upon "equivalency" standards that either the BCI or SAE could buy into, much less help consumers make purchasing decisions.