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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. As with most things Porsche, the change over from dual row to single was not a clean one; cars in the 2000-2001 need to be checked to see which one is actually in the car; although most (if not all) 2001's are single row.While the base polymer type is important to several factors in synthetic oils, and even more critical one is ZDDP levels. These engines absolutely hate the newer "low SAPS" oils (read reformulation away from ZDDP to titanium salts to protect the cats longer), leading to premature wear on several critical components such as the cam followers. So while looking for Group IV-V base stocks, also be critical of the ZDDP levels. To give you some idea of how this has changed, try researching the actual starting ZDDP levels in an oil, many manufacturers no longer even publish this data. Usually, you need to be looking at "boutique" oils like Joe Gibbs Racing or Motul for products with levels above 1000 PPM.
  2. With both those models costing way more than the Durametric enthusiast version, the choice would seem obvious.............. That's very true but you said that only the PIWIS or Durametric would clear it as nothing else would work which isn't true. I was offer a different choice that maybe a local garage might have if he was shopping around. I am not challenging that point as I was unaware of anything other than the PIWIS or Durametric system being able to do it. Last time we looked at Launch, we found very limited Porsche DME or systems capability and relatively expensive hardware; they have apparently been listening and doing their homework. I have also read online that some VW software systems are capable of it as well, only to be subsequently told by the company that does the software that it cannot. Live and learn............
  3. Well I hope if it's to big in diameter, it must be bigger and hopefully stronger,than the stock from the beginning?RegardsStefanOne would hope, but they still fail, plus they limit the options open to the owners.
  4. With both those models costing way more than the Durametric enthusiast version, the choice would seem obvious..............
  5. A factory replacement engine will have all of the updates as of its date of manufacture, but while Porsche did find a fix for the RMS leaks (new design seal), the IMS issue persisted until they came out with the 9A1 engine which does not use the intermediate shaft. Because your engine was replaced in 2011, it will be carrying the last design IMS bearing, which is still the subject of reported failures, and cannot be easily replaced with the stronger aftermarket bearings because it is too large in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the engine cases.
  6. Jake posted on another site that his IT people say the site is clean and they are looking into why Google search is doing this.
  7. Which "Launch" models do the reset? They seem to have so many different units at pricing all over the map.
  8. By far, the best resource for torque specs are the factory manuals. Second best would be the Bentley manual. The sump bolts should be torqued to 7.5 ft. lb. (I prefer to use an inch pound wrench for accuracy on such low torque bolts, and tighten to 90 inch pounds).
  9. It does make the clutch pedal feel softer to depress, however the way the boost spring mounts ahead of the pedal (towards the driver) and above the pedal pivot point, if it comes loose from the pedal assembly, or breaks internally, you can get both a stiffer pedal and sometimes one that stays a bit lower to the floor. It should be easy enough to confirm it is connected and working, but you need to look up under the dash to see it: I fully agree that the clutch hydraulics should be suspect, which is why I inquired when they were last serviced.
  10. Could be a couple of things; when was the last time the clutch was flushed and bled? How many miles on the clutch (lowering and/or stiffening pedal are common observations on an old clutch on its way out)? There is a "boost spring" assembly attached to the pedal under the dash; it may of come loose or is failing.
  11. Today I will change out the new spark plug in #6 and put back in one of my old plugs and see if there is a change. Could a plug on be only affect at higher RPMs when under load? Yes, a single plug or coil pack can break down under load.
  12. I think Jake's site got hit by something and that caused the world to label it as a "malware distributor"; I just got on it without any issues: http://www.flat6innovations.com/
  13. That would be a pretty good start. Problem with the OEM manuals is that they are all out of print now, so you have to bide your time until one comes up at a reasonable price, unless you want to subscribe to Porsche's program or buy the pages one at a time. One of the hardest to acquire are the OBDII manuals, which are extremely useful and often sell at stiff prices.
  14. Is there stuff about the internals of the head at least? The description lists this: "Step-by-step engine and cylinder head removal and installation." If you're removing the head, that certainly implies things like using lock/hold down tools, proper engine rotation/etc. But I guess there is no "engine disassemble and reassemble" chapter listed huh. Yes, there is a good section on cylinder heads (section 15, some 75 or so pages) that covers both the 3.4 and 3.6 engines, and even a reasonable section on the IMS as well. But if you are looking for detail on splitting the cases, and taking the crank and rods out of the carrier, that is where it is lacking. Over all, it is a good reference book, just not a complete one.
  15. I'm pretty sure you have gotten a wrong code value, try rescanning the car with a Porsche specific system, such as either the Durametric system or Porsche's PIWIS and let us know what you find.
  16. I'm very conservative when working around these engines; both sides should be locked.
  17. LN has included two style tools, one for the five chain motors, one for the three chain version.
  18. You could also keep you eye out for one of the factory manual sets, they show up for sale from time to time.
  19. The service notification is a mileage based reminder to get the oil changed, etc. You need either a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software system to clear it (nothing else works).
  20. While there is an entire section dedicated to engine removal; there is relatively little depth on engine disassembly or assembly.
  21. Replace the factory band clamps with stainless steel screw type. But be sure the connection is free of build up or crud from the leak, and that there is no damage to the hose.
  22. No, because it would effect all cylinders on that bank, not just the one. A bad cat would also throw codes.
  23. If it is a car built for the US market, you should see cam movement on both sides.
  24. Could be any number of things; you could still have a coil breaking down under load, which could be eliminated by swapping with another coil and checking to see if the misfire moves with the coil. Bad injector would do the same thing, and could also be isolated by swapping test. You could have a bad valve spring on that cylinder that is hanging a valve open at high RPM. Afraid this is going to require some more digging and using the process of elimination to narrow down the problem.
  25. Consider adding a UV dye to your coolant, then run the car around for a bit. Take a look around the engine bay with a blacklight source and it will become very obvious where the leak(s) is/are.......
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