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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Don't know, I have not read the article...............
  2. It is adjustable; there are three of them in the set (#9599) that are used during engine assembly to simulate the hydraulic load (pretension) of the actual tensioners and chain guides while you set the cam timing (allocation) under static conditions for a new or rebuilt engine. Once the cams are allocated, you replace the tool with the real tensioners one at a time. If you did not use them, the cams would not be correct when the engine actually starts running........... By the time you have "one of everything" tooling for the M96, you are about $10K out of pocket................
  3. The $70 was for the IMS extraction tool only; and, yes, he is going to need more, a lot more; all of which is single use tooling.....................
  4. Ummmmmmmm................no offense intended, but by your questions, I'm a little concerned about you "getting in over your head" here. TDC is locked by rotating the engine clockwise (ONLY!) until the "OT" hole on the crank belt pulley is lined up with the fixing boss and inserting short pin 9595 (around 5/16th diam.) thru the pulley and into the bore. Once the pin is in, the engine is locked at TDC. My major concern is your discussion of "pulling the cams"; are you in possession of all of the required tooling for this (9634 holding device for cams, 9612 cam timing/locking device, 9611 camshaft hold-down device, etc., etc.)? If you do not, or are not familiar with the some 57 pages of instructions on cam removal and reallocation from the OEM service manual set; I would think you are going to need some professional assistance...............
  5. Unfortunately, buying a used actuator and solenoid could be a very bad idea as replacing the system is not difficult, but it is time consuming and requires more than a modicum of technical knowledge of the M96. If you installed a used actuator, and it was either bad or the wrong one (there is more than one part number), you would end up doing this swap more than once; and this is a bit more than a "shade tree DIY" project.................
  6. It is probably not sticking, just not moving ("assuming an active position"). P1524 is the code for a failing actuator; however, it is wise to change both the solenoid and the actuator while the cam cover is off...........
  7. Any competent auto machine shop can press the bearings for you if you pull the hub carriers; but you can save a lot of time if you can find an indie with the B90-P tooling, which can pull the bearings without removing the hub carriers. As far as renting the tooling, good luck, very few outlets rent tooling this specific………………..
  8. You may luck out and find someone to help you with this, but the reality of Porsche specialty tooling is that most purchasers are not going to loan or rent out these items. We get this type of request all the time, and we always respectfully decline for a variety of reasons…………
  9. P1539 is indicative of the VarioCam actuator on bank 2 not "assuming an active position", which is Porsche speak for it ain't working. The solenoid is only part of the picture, it can be moving (the click you hear), but the actuator is not moving due to other issues. Unfortunately, the only recourse is to pull the unit and replace it (actuator and solenoid). Budget in the range of $1,200-1,500 to have an indie do this...............
  10. I would think that your number one concern would be clearance; there ain't a whole lot of room in there..............
  11. P0300 is cylinders misfiring; 0301 is cylinder 1, 0302 is cylinder 2, and so on................
  12. By far, the quickest, easiest and most dependable method of eliminating this issue is to have someone with the correct tool pull a vacuum on the system and then top it off while under vacuum..............5 min. and you are done......
  13. Oil and air filters, go to fleetfilter.com (they carry Wix/NAPA Gold, which is a much better made filter than the OEM Mahle or Mann units); unfortunately, they do not have the cabin filter, which you can get from Autohaus AZ................
  14. Sorry guys, but it is on the bottom of the tank: Fortunately, it does not come into direct contact with the coolant, so once accessed, it is simple to change...............
  15. You will lose less than a quart, most of which will be inside the plastic filter housing when you remove it. If you are careful, just obtain a replacement filter and o-ring (in case you have cut or pinched the original one), unscrew the filter housing and lower it straight down (remember, it is full of oil), remove the old o-ring and filter, correctly put on the new filter and o-ring, and put the housing back on, re-torque it to specs. You will be back in business with little loss of oil and will only be out the cost of the filter………………..
  16. Only use the OEM type metal gasket, no sealant is needed, do not reuse the old metal gasket...................
  17. Needless to say I'm jealous. I would have loved to have access to the tool. Just don't think I can justify purchasing the tool for one ten year old car. There are adaptors to fit many other makes and models for this tool as well....................
  18. The VarioCam is altering the relative positions of the intake and exhaust cam lobe centerlines using combination solenoid and oil hydraulics; in doing so, in can significantly increase both the drivability and power output band of the engine. There have been several postings of excellent "how does it work" profiles, so do a search if you would like to learn more about how it functions mechanically. The major difference between the early VarioCam and the later VarioCam Plus is that the later system can incrementally alter the centerline differences over a fixed range, while the earlier system switched between only two settings. The best way to see how the system is working is by using either a PIWIS or the Durametric software system, which can give you the actual cam angle changes in real time.
  19. You could have saved a load of time by using one of the B90 tools, which allow you to remove and replace the wheel bearing without removing the carrier assembly from the car (so no disassembly / reassembly issues), which more than makes it worth the money...............
  20. Ethanol is about 30-35% lower in energy output compared to gas, so any level of EtOH is going to reduce both total performance and mileage by some amount. This is one of the farcical aspects of the Fed requiring the use of 10% in gas, and why "Flex Fuel" vehicles make little sense from and energy conservation perspective (other than to help the corn farmers); but in many (if not most) states, you have no choice but to use fuel with ethanol in it. Fortunately, the M96/97 engines and fuel systems can tolerate up to 10% EtOH, but no higher; but the DME is going to change its profile to accommodate the lower energy potential of the fuel.
  21. Along with Mike, I'd take a look at the ignition switch, but also the clutch interlock switch; either can present the conditions you mention...........
  22. I wouldn't use anything but the OEM pump. We have installed a lot of the OEM's over the years, never had an issue with them failing prematurely, but have seen many aftermarket units crap out in very few miles. Are you sure that the system was properly filled (under vacuum)? Has the car been pressure tested to see if there is any other issues (blown head gasket, cracked head, etc.)?
  23. Couple of issues: On a Boxster, you can get at (just) the AoS to change it out without removing anything else. This is not the case on most 911 variants where the a lot of the engine components either need to be removed to get at it, or the transmission, and in some case the engine, needs to be removed to gain access. A couple of individuals have done it by taking off components ( Disassemble engine method ), but it is easier with the transmission out of the way. In the case of Tiptronic’s, it becomes a toss up to either pull the gear box or the entire engine. Either way, not for the faint of heart............
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