Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,588
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    190

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Interesting comment, I've never seen a multimeter that did not do DC; we currently have four different brands (and price point) meters in the shop, they all do DC.........
  2. The P0455 code is for a problem with the tank pressure sensor measurment, usually a classic "bad or missing" gas cap code. I could also be other EVAP ventilation system lines leaking, but I would get rid of the aftermarket cap first......
  3. If the 0301 code was the only one, it will go out by itself with enough driving. You could also take it to one of the auto parts stores advertising free use of a scanner and clear it as well.
  4. When the AOS fails, the vacuum level jumps from around 5 inches of water at the oil fill cap at idle to over 20 inches. If you do not have the equipement to check this, and the cap is very difficult to nearly impossible to get off at an idle, you need an AOS. The fact that you are also seeing smoke is a second indication. Do the AOS and be done with it before it totally craps out and strands you, or worse..............
  5. While Loren is spot on about the codes, I can say that we have not found an aftermarket gas cap that works as well as the OEM units. Eventually, the Stants and other major brands tend to start throwing codes associated with vacuum leaks in the fuel vapor recovery system. We had several customers replace the OEM caps with aftermarket locking units, all of which eventually started to throw codes. Putting on an new OEM unit fixed the problem. Get the codes read and report back, if it is one of the codes associated with a gas cap leak, getting the OEM unit is a cheap, easy, and near permanent fix.............
  6. You have to be very careful about the pH of the wheel cleaners you use as they can really tear up the clear coat on the wheels if you use the wrong thing. P21S has a long standing reputation for both cleaning the wheels and not damaging the clear coat.
  7. "...and he said the discs were copies of the original Porsche ones" seems to sum it all up.....................
  8. We do not use anything but the OEM pumps; the aftermarket units have proven to be too unreliable. Sunset should be able to set you up with a good deal on the OEM unit, ask for Jeff in parts. The lot temp thermostat is a great upgrade to do at the same time, we have use the LN Engineering version with great results.
  9. First, let me say that listening to sound clips has proven to be the least useful way to diagnose these problems. With both the quality and volume all over the place, it becomes very hard to discern any useful information. We have had customers email us sound clips, only to find something completely different from our analysis of the sound clip when the car arrived at the shop. The best way to check out what is making the noise is to pull the cover behind the seats and remove the serpentine belt, then rotate each component looking for noise, wobble, or other signs of distress. Quite often, if the water pump is on the way out, you will find evidence of a slight leak from the vent hole under the pump as well.
  10. Anytime; you will find that this stuff is an excellent general purpose "squeak stopper". We always keep a couple cans around the shop.
  11. A better suggestion: DuPont spray dry teflon coating: Cost about $8 a can, sold by everyone from Amazon to Lowes. Leaves a true Teflon coating that does not attract dirt and does not bother plastic parts. We even use this stuff on sticky starter Bendix drives, works like a charm.
  12. JFP in PA

    tool

    It is the Snap-On tool, well made and very durable, if a bit pricey (and what isn't from Snap-On):
  13. Most of the main harness is a single unit, meaning you cannot buy just one section of it. If the wire insulation is intact, you could just rewrap the harness with electrical tape. If the wire insulation itself is gone, you may have to do some splicing with new wire to correct this.
  14. Yes, it will work. As long as the Airlift unit is above the fluid level in the tank, there is no danger of it pulling out coolant.
  15. P1576 is a cruise control fault code, I somehow doubt that stopped your car. Are you sure you have the correct code number?
  16. You need to consider OEM oil “recommendations” with a grain of salt; quite often, the oil weights and types they select are a lot more self-serving to the OEM than designed to protect the new owner’s investment. The oil weight you see being specified is often based more on its impact on the OEM’s CAFÉ ratings; this is why you see 0W-20 oils becoming more commonplace in street cars like Honda, Toyota, and Nissan. Not that long ago, 10W-X weight oils were standard fare for use in arctic and near artic conditions, but suddenly now you need 0W-X oils for use in Miami, Houston, and LA. Similarly, the move away from ZDDP additives “to protect the catalytic converters” is more related to the fact that the EPA had the OEM’s on the hook to warranty the cats for 8 years or 80,000 miles.
  17. ZDDP is an excellent anti wear additive for any type of engine. And, yes, the OEM's are pushing to have it reduced/eliminated because it can shorten the life of the cats. In reality, however, they are not doing this because they have suddenly developed a "environmentally concerned conscience", they are doing it because the EPA has the OEM on the hook to warranty the cats for 8 years or 80,000 miles, and cats are expensive. As a car owner, your tradeoff is to run a high ZDDP oil and risk the cats going sooner (which is speculative), or running low or non ZDDP oils and suffering engine wear that only shows up after the warranty is gone. You also need to remember that you can crawl under the car and replace your cats with some simple hand tools; but rebuilding your engine is going to require a bit more equipment and dollars..........
  18. If memory serves, the plug should be swapped out at 60k miles or every four years on your model, so you are "past due". Changing plugs early also never hurts as they are a “wear item”. As for plug types, the OEM plugs are pretty good units, but we have also had excellent results from Denso Iridium’s on several cars, just be sure you get the correct heat range to match the factory plugs (Denso IK20 for your car).
  19. Back when the actually sold these manuals, they were both huge (a full service manual set for the 986 Boxster alone was fifteen three ring binders), and expensive (the Boxster set went for $2,300, plus another $1,800 for the extra OBD II diagnostics manual). So while they never made it easy, you could get the data. Post 2005-6 model years, as Loren noted, you could only obtain access to the online electronic versions by subsription, but this was also fairly pricey as well.
  20. In good shape, the eingine should be around 140 PSIG. You have a couple cylinders that are lower, but not unusual for that many miles. Most likely, your problem is related to a blown AOS, to I would start there. As a bad AOS fill a lot of stuff with oil, I would atleast cleant out the throttle body and be prepared for an engine that continues to throw smoke, but at a demishing rate until it cleans itself out......
  21. Anytime, glad to be of help. The subject of oil is always a "lightning rod" topic. For many years, the "standard oil" we have used in the shop has been Castrol Syntec (now Edge with Syntec Technology) in a 10W-40 weight. This was based upon years of UOA data from customer's engines. Most recently, we have been experimenting with Joe Gibbs DT 40, a high ZDDP full synthetic 5W-40 Group 4-5 oil out of Joe Gibbs racing. While the UOA results are obviously more limited, they have been very good as well. While a bit more expensive, the DT40 appears to be worth the money.
  22. Porsche Cars is absolutely draconian about anyone using their intellectual property. Publishing the link could cause Loren all kinds of problems, up to and including getting “401 URL not found” the next time you click on his website……….
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.