Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Highlander

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    314

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Highlander

  1. Highlander
    Excellent! Thanks for the update. :clapping:
  2. Highlander
    Not a quick solution, but try a cigarette lighter plug-in battery tender and see if it will charge the battery enough to at least open the hood. G
  3. Highlander
    Get someone to push down on the hood just below the emblem as you pull the emergency release cable. That should help reduce the tension on the latch and make it easier to open. Good Luck, Graeme
  4. Highlander
    Stock 18" fitment on the 986 is 225/40-18 on 8Jx18 ET 50 and 265/35-18 on 9Jx18 ET 52. However, I am running 9Jx17 ET 43 on the rear of my car and they fit fine. The tire sizes for the 987 are a little taller than the 986 to allow the use of practical sidewall heights with 19" wheels. The 18" 987 wheels should fit your car without any rubbing. If they do rub, it will be very minor and can be fixed by adding a 2 or 3mm spacer. Please post pictures and whether you needed spacers or not here if you go ahead. Good luck, Graeme
  5. Highlander
    What you are feeling is another symptom of worn out shocks. As the shocks wear, their ability to dampen out bumps reduces, causing a very harsh ride. Replacing them will almost certainly improve your ride considerably. Graeme
  6. Highlander
    I'm in 100% agreement here. The OEM pads may be a little more expensive - especially if you use board sponsor Sunset Imports - but they work very well, are quiet and are relatively low dust.
  7. Highlander
    There is a great writeup on Boxster brake replacement put together by Trygve Isaacson here: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ Good Luck, Graeme
  8. Highlander
    It's pretty easy to do yourself http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ If you can't do it yourself, either use the dealer or an independent that works on Porsche's. Good Luck, Graeme
  9. Highlander
    Hmmm, I wasn't aware there was any calibration that could be done. My speedometer consistently reads ~3mph high. If the dealer manages to successfully calibrate your speedo, please report back. Good Luck, Graeme
  10. Highlander
    Yes they are Brembo and yes, they are monoblock. If this is a college project, call your local dealer and ask them if you can observe a brake job and take some measurements. I'm sure they'll help you out. Good Luck, Graeme
  11. Highlander
    In principal, he is absolutely accurate - if you are aligning a formula car where all those things are adjustable. On your Boxster, you can set toe and camber. That's it. Ackerman and caster are what you get. There is no way to adjust either on our cars. Find your local SCCA autocrossers and get a recommendation from them. Good Luck, Graeme
  12. Highlander
    Find someone who will do custom alignments. You do not want the "it's within factory specs" kind of cr@p. Front: Toe - as close to 0 as you can get. Camber - Max negative, but matched left to right. Probably around -1 degrees is all you'll get with the ROW suspension. If you find your front tires wearing heavily on the inside edge, try flipping them on the rims before the tread has totally gone. If you still find they wear too fast, reduce the camber. Rear: Toe - 1/8" total toe-in a Camber - 0.5 degrees more camber than you got up front. eg, if you get -0.8 degrees up front, set the rears to -1.3. This is a nice aggressive street setting. If you find the car tramlining badly - ie following the ruts in the road left by heavy traffic - try adding a little toe-in. Good Luck, Graeme
  13. Highlander
    What is your tolerance for buckboard stiff suspensions and replacing tires? The only reason to get a coilover suspension is to gain the camber we need to the track and to stiffen everything up so it improves the handling. To run adequate camber for track or autocross (-2-2.5 degrees), you will go through a set of tires in less than 5k miles! For a predominantly street driven car that sees the track and Ax course only occasionally, it's hard to recommend anything other than the ROW M030. Even "spirited" runs in the canyons would be more than satisfied with the ROW setup. Of course, as always, this is IMHO. Graeme
  14. Highlander
    Technically, the stock suspension on a Boxster is a coilover since the shock assembly mounts through the spring. However, the term "Coilover" is typically used when a suspension has adjustable ride height. Normally this is achieved with a threaded shock body like the PSS9 and H&R Coilover systems. You don't mention your location. Here in the US, a popular upgrade is to install an ROW M030 (Rest of World, Sport tuned) suspension. If you are not located in the US and your car does not have the M030 suspension, that is probably your best bet. If you go that route, I would also recommend upgrading your swaybars to the M030 bars too. If you drive your car 100% on the street, I would recommend simply replacing your suspension with either OEM or aftermarket stock replacement parts. Bilstein has a couple of standard shock replacements as well as their PSS9 system you mentioned. I would be hard pressed to recommend a coilover system unless you are autocrossing or tracking our car. Even at their softest settings, you may find the ride a little harsh. Good Luck, Graeme
  15. Highlander
    I drove my car for about a week with the MAF disconnected while a replacement was shipped. It was summer so it was quite warm. Other than the glowing check engine light I didn't notice any difference. I'm pretty sure I would not have passed emissions, but it did not effect driveability at all. Graeme
  16. Highlander
    There is no set amount. Just contribute what you feel is fair based on the help you have received. Once you do, you will receive the prestigious title of "Contributing Member" :) Graeme
  17. Highlander
    Definitely replace all 4 corners. Does you car have the M030 "Sport Tuned Suspension"? If not, then that is probably your best bet. Great prices from board sponsor Sunset Imports http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...amp;code=sunset Give 'em a call and tell them you heard about them on RennTech. If you go that route and can rustle up the $$, upgrade to the M030 swaybars too. Another option is the ROW M030 (ROW stands for Rest of World). This lowers the car around 1/2" and stiffens things up a little more than the US 030. A complete kit can be purchased from Carnewal in Belgium for around US$1200 http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p86003.htm Good Luck, Graeme
  18. Highlander
    Thanks - you are too kind... :cheers: Graeme
  19. Highlander
    This is the picture I find most interesting. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ost&id=6081 With the JIC (branded Cross in the US) setup I installed on my car, I have more rear camber than I want. These guys have actually understood this is a problem with lowered Boxsters and have made allowance for it by giving you 3 camber settings on the rear upper strut mount. Now why can't JIC and Bilstein do the same? I'm going to have to look into what it would take to get something like that fabbed up. Graeme
  20. Highlander
    Stock suspension? Any funny noises?
  21. Highlander
    Just replacing the wheels with 17's and picking a tire with a reasonably soft sidewall will soften the ride considerably. Good Luck, Graeme
  22. Highlander
    Please report back on how well the HF tool worked. thanks, Graeme
  23. Highlander
    I think a silver top on a black car would look good. With good winter tires, Boxsters make adequate winter drivers. The biggest issue I would see is with the relatively low ground clearance. Good Luck, Graeme
  24. Highlander
    Interesting anecdote about Royal Purple. As some of you may know, I have been autocrossing a friends 2005 Mini Cooper S this year. When the car was brand new, the owner changed the oil after 500 miles. He dyo'ed prior to changing the oil, then again immediatly after. The result? A 5hp gain... on a 168hp Mini! This reinforced results he had observed when he worked on Indy car team and Royal Purple joined as a sponsor. I'm now a total convert. Graeme
  25. Highlander
    You are very welcome. There is no spring that keeps the pads close to the rotor. When you release the brakes, the pads will stop there clamping force on the rotors but will stay just touching them. The rotor surface is not perfectly flat and kinda pushes the pads back just far enough that they do not bind. It's all self correcting so the pads always stay roughly the same distance from the rotor no matter how much the pads or rotor wear. If you want to understand more about the principals behind disk brakes, check out this article: How disk brakes work It shows a "floating caliper" style of brake, but the basic principals are the same. Have fun, Graeme
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.