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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. DBJoe996
    You have to drop the engine to the crossmember to remove the intake manifolds. There really is no other way. You also have to remove the AC compressor and lay it to one side. Leave the AC lines attached. Yes, once you use a turkey baster (not your wife's but one dedicated in the shop) to empty the power steering fluid, twist the filler tube by hand and it will release. And things others explain, like "remove the intake manifold bolts", doesn't actually explain how hard it is to reach and unbolt the last remaining manifold bolt next to the firewall. Or how to get to the third AC compressor bolt Why would you remove the passenger side intake manifold for vacuum lines? There is only one vacuum line that goes through the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. That one is simple.
  2. DBJoe996
    Like JFP said...take it to a pro. The compressors are pretty robust. It is the electro-magnetic clutch and friction plate that take a beating. One simple test is to engage the AC with the engine running and visually check the compressor to see if the pulley is spinning. Do not touch it with the engine running. In fact, check all the pulleys and belt at the same time.
  3. DBJoe996
    RMS=rear main seal IMSB=bearing No such thing as a "RMS bearing" I would have them bleed the hydraulic system to the clutch slave cylinder again. No cable adjustments or other adjustments. Did they install the correct OE master cylinder? I have heard of some aftermarket master cylinders causing this exact problem. Did they install the upgraded versions of the release bearing and clutch fork?
  4. DBJoe996
    Since your system was completely empty, you have to go with the total technical data amounts, not just what is calculated for the condensers.
  5. DBJoe996
  6. DBJoe996
    The gauge cluster stores the odometer mileage, but in my mind nothing else. Why would it store the fuel level? Or maybe the last oil pressure reading and voltmeter reading? Makes no sense.
  7. DBJoe996
    Here are the original specifications. I would suggest not deviating from these for winter wheels and tires.
  8. DBJoe996
    If they have Hunter alignment equipment, then probably good to go. Just make sure the alignment guy has done a Porsche before. Just ask and hope they are honest. Otherwise, take it to the Porsche service center...they have all the technology and experience necessary to do it right.
  9. DBJoe996
    Yes, got the latest and greatest, and it is holding up very well. Good to hear you got in there.
  10. DBJoe996
    I take it you got the alternator out. Good job! When I replaced my oil filler tube, it seemed to go right in. A bit of a struggle to push it down snug, but I had no difficultly lining it up and pushing straight down on it. Took a picture right before I put the bolts back in. Yes, all left handed work. Ugh....
  11. DBJoe996
    I was working from memory and it turns out I am dead wrong. It is confusing with the changeover designs. From 1997 to 1999, Porsche use a dual row intermediate shaft bearing which has proven to be as robust as the larger single row used from 2006 through 2008 model years. The IMS Class Action Lawsuit filed against Porsche revealed the factory Dual Row was much stronger than the Single Row used from 2000-2005. IMS 101 – IMS Retrofit IMSRETROFIT.COM Visit the post for more. A 2003 would have the smaller single row bearing. Just get it replaced with the Solution and you are done.
  12. DBJoe996
    In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out. Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm. You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right. Be very careful of the oil filler tube. It can crack easily.
  13. DBJoe996
    It could be that the 2003 engine has the large IMS bearing, in which case the engine must be disassembled, engine cases split, in order to replace the bearing. The good thing, if that is the case, very few large IMS bearings have ever failed, and if it has it mostly due to neglect (no oil changes, not changing the oil every 5K miles, and so on).
  14. DBJoe996
    Are you sure you have not already moved it enough for the alternator right side to come up? Pull right side bolt all the way out and see if you can lift the right side up and out. It might be a little bit of a struggle but if it moves up you can get it out. I remember I had to go back and forth a few times, bolt in and whack, bolt out and try to lift, bolt back in and whack even harder, bolt out and test lift again.
  15. DBJoe996
    The bushing only needs to move enough that you can rotate the alternator up and out. It does not have to be pushed all the way into the rear mount arm. It really only has to move enough that you can lift up the right side of the alternator easily. Once you have the alternator out you will see how it all works. With the left bolt out, how easily can you rotate the alternator up? Or can you not rotate it at all?
  16. DBJoe996
    I would say you are going to have to keep at it. Do exactly what the instructions say to do...back the long bolt out 3 turns and whack the bolt head hard. Harder than you think. The rear bushing has to move in order to create the space needed to remove the alternator. I put a towel on the car to protect it and used a brass boat prop shaft. Lined it up on the bolt head with the end of the prop shaft outside the engine bay and hit it with a sledge hammer. Don't overdue it because you can break the rear mount. It takes just the right amount.
  17. DBJoe996
    Always helps to post year/make/model and which bank sensor.
  18. DBJoe996
    I don't know if this helps...but here you go
  19. DBJoe996
    I don't think either of those codes would result in the car failing emissions inspection. I would wait until after the inspection then clear the codes and see if they come back. P1671 OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code Seems the codes are for the transmission, and not related to emissions.
  20. DBJoe996
    Make sure you have the latest Durametric version. It is 6.5.5.12 Porsche Diagnostic Store | Durametric Software Products for Sale WWW.DURAMETRIC.COM Buy Durametric auto diagnotistic tools for Porsches.
  21. DBJoe996
    Aluminum Guage Rings Source? - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - Aluminum Guage Rings Source? - Hey Guys, I've been having some problems sourcing some good eom aluminum rings. Bumperplugs does not carry them anymore, and I'm not too sure on the Ebay ones as I...
  22. DBJoe996
    Make sure the wheel lug lock socket is with the car. Check the spare tire pressure. Check all fluid levels. Enjoy the drive home.
  23. DBJoe996
    You might fine some useful information here
  24. DBJoe996
  25. DBJoe996
    Replacing the AOS is a major pain in the butt job. It will test your overall mechanical skills, tool set and patience. For that matter, it is a job I never want to do again. It took me 3 days. Lowering the engine is only the first step, so you need to read up on how to do it. You also might get a couple of quotes from experienced mechanics to compare with how much time you will have to put into it. The AOS can be purchased for less than $200. Only get an original Porsche AOS. This is one job not to go cheap. If it is not spraying coolant all over the engine bay, more like just weeping, you can wait. Keep a very close eye on the coolant level.
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