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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. As for the Level Control fault. I would first clear the codes and do the full level calibration. Read the instructions carefully and also check Youtube as well as the Durametric site for info before you begin. And heed the warning that if you interrupt the calibration you will need to start over from the beginning. Not too tough of a procedure but I think I messed mine up the first time but now I've done it on my Cayenne and the procedure on my girlfriends Audi A8 is almost identical so I'm getting pretty good at it. (Audi one is actually easier than the Porsche one, at least where you measure from.)
  2. You need to get it scanned and see what codes come up to narrow it down.
  3. Sounds like an indicator to me. My old Audi made that sound but lasted a few months. Got louder and louder until it finally failed.
  4. Do you do your own work? You have to pull the rear end (bumper/facia) off just to change the air filters :) You don't even want to ask about the Spark plugs. Nice car though. A friend just got a new (991) C4S. I am in love with it.
  5. I agree with doing all of the fluids if you plan on keeping the Pig. Both Diffs, transfer case, and tranny. I would buy the Air compressor seal if you have Air Suspension but no hurry in replacing it as it is seldom a catastrophic failure. Usually starts out to be intermittent and then gets worse. But go with Bagpipingandy (out of the UK) off of Ebay for a fraction of the price of the VW rebuild kit.
  6. Sounds like a variable ratio limited slip then with Clutch packs. Thanks
  7. Good to know Bigbuzuki. I always figured the Torque split was just a conventional limited slip or a Torsen (like Audi).
  8. This is the part I am referring too: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1454212/ Sonnen has it for $671 but you might find a good one on Ebay. If you go used try to find one out of an '06 ~'10 Cayenne. Shouldn't be any problem in driving it as it is but it would be good to get it scanned to be sure. Usually you will get a 4WD fault on the display.
  9. Keep in mind you are at the point that the rubber support in the center bearing will fail. Probably a temporary fix so keep an eye on it as the Bearing itself rarely fails.
  10. Your best bet if your going to keep your Cayenne for a while is to get the Durametric software and install it on a laptop so you can scan all OBDII codes plus most of the Porsche specific codes. With that said, it could be the switch but the High/Low range solenoid from '04~early '05 is known to be weak and was superseded with a newer part number so that could also be your problem. You may have to take it to the dealer unless you can do some troubleshooting without the Durametric. Maybe try the wires at the Solenoid to with a Multimeter to see if you are getting power when you move the switch.
  11. As mentioned above, a different tire diameter can have an effect. Do you replace your tires in pairs. If one has been replaced after the others have worn quite a lot you almost need to take it in and get it shaved or just replace the other three at the same time. Kind of expensive but it can solve problems. Not sure about Porsche but Audi say's max of 3/16" tread depth difference on the same brand and model of tire as different brands/models can already be slightly different than a standard size. If you have time, you can also remove all of your Brake anti-lock sensors and clean them as they can pick up a lot of debri/dirt and give erroneous readings after a lot of miles, they are magnetic which exacerbates the problem.
  12. Run Flats are a heavier tire and therefore degrade suspension and turning and ride performance slightly but on a heavy machine like the Cayenne you would probably never be able to tell like you would on a Sports car. They also tend to cost more and there are not many choices in the Cayenne sizes that are also XL rated for the weight. You need to determine what is available in your tire sized and weight category first. They need to be at a minimum 'XL' rated and have a Service Description of around a 106W, 106Y, 106V rating.
  13. I think the 0w-40 is a better choice if you like Mobil 1. It does have better specifications than the 5w-30.
  14. The 3 little Servos on the left side which are very hard to get at are common failures on Gen1 Cayennes. There is a lot of info on problems with then in the archives here and on Rennlist. I have a fault in one of mine but haven't gotten around to fixing it myself as access is a pain.
  15. I have also seen HID bulbs fade a little bit. You can find plenty of info on this online. The D1S in the Cayenne as well as the D2S in my Audi's.
  16. When I first picked my CTTS up on the East Coast in '08 I drove from Deleware to Washington state and averaged exactly 19mpg. I did keep it down to 65mph most of the way but did hit some strong headwinds all through the central states.
  17. How do your lens look? Are they hazed over or yellowed? Maybe a fine polishing kit will work. I'd only recommend the Griots or Meguiars kit as some of the cheap ones out there are too abrasive. Manufacturers of aerodynamic headlights have to comprise a little on looks and performance. BMW's tend to be pretty good depending on the model as most still use a round reflector under their aerodynamic lens, round is about the most efficient you can get. With that said I would say the lights in my '06 CTTS are pretty good but I do keep my lens nice and clean and clear. And as mentioned, HID bulbs can loose some brightness over the years. I just replaced all of the HID bulbs in the Cayenne and my two Audi's that use them (D2S in the Audi's) last year and it was just a barely noticeable improvement but it was there.
  18. You really don't get the CTTS performance for $2K unless your just talking about straight line. The CTTS engine has the extra boost you can get from a software package but it will maintain it longer by keeping the mixture cool with the larger intercoolers. Add to that it has the bigger front & rear brakes, 20" wheels standard, stiffer suspension bushings, a different lowering module, reinforced struts, reinforced steering tie rods, and usually more standard items as well as options but almost nothing that can't be had in a regular CTT. It was I believe a $19K premium over the regular Turbo. The '06 CTTS tranny doesn't have a Sport button, just the standard Comfort, Normal, and Sport settings for the PASM.
  19. I'd say that would be ballpark but if it appears in great shape and came with all records then that would definitely raise the price.
  20. The Bearing itself doesn't fail, it is the rubber support that does the cushioning around the bearing that fails. Also, if you run the codes the engine mount should give you a code if it has failed as it is monitored also.
  21. Keep in mind the difference between slotted and cross drilled. The cross drilled Porsche sometimes uses is cast in when the rotors are made relieving stresses whereas most aftermarket (aka cheaper) rotors are regular rotors that are drilled after the fact introducing stress areas that can cause cracks. Slotting does much the same as cross drilling without the cracking and true quality cross drilled rotors are more expensive.
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