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clarksongli

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Everything posted by clarksongli

  1. clarksongli
    oh i guess i should have also mentioned.....i went to 275/45/20s.....not 275/40/20s......
  2. clarksongli
    Porsche spec is 2mm of rotor wear....which is pretty crazy....but when you start to look at the available thickness....there isn't a lot there for a car that weighs as much as a Cayenne (fronts new are 34mm thick) compared to say a GTI 337 which is a 30mm rotor. I wouldn't go by mileage for wearable items like rotors/pads.....i've replaced my brakes 4 times now and i only have 86k.....but because it was a SanFran car, it's more understandable. Mudman is correct here.....the fronts will be super easy....and the pins in the front generally aren't "crazy." But when you get to the rear.....these pins are basically interference fit NEW, so with the gunk and whatnot on them, they basically won't come out.....i "cleaned" the pins prior to hitting them out, so i didn't ovalize the aluminum hole. If you look under my name or the DIY section, i did a writeup with pictures and a tool list for the rear brake replacement. The front's had been covered by another person in the DIY section.
  3. clarksongli
    There are small metal spring clips....they fit into a slot on the plastic and press/"snap" into the metal frame. They fall out of the plastic real easy, so chances are one or more fell out of the plastic portion and when you went to press it back in, there was no metal clip there to hold it in place. I'll upload a pic tonight, but i'd pull the full plastic off, find the metal clips/locations, make sure they are in and push everything back together.
  4. clarksongli
    I'm not saying this isn't possible, but i would certainly do this at your own risk. There are reasons why seat and belt bolts are higher graded steel than other general fasteners. In an accident it is very likely that this single pivot point modification could spin/break or move, which isn't something i would particularly enjoy myself. I think this is a good idea, but i think there needs to be a bit more safety margin involved with a modification like this. God forbid you have a small child's seat installed in the rear and have this modification fail...
  5. clarksongli
    Very nice....i had been looking at Vred's for a long time, but went with a Kuhmo instead based on the fact i am off road quite a bit and a bigger block tread is nice to have.....downfall is the noise, but i'm ok with it. 1000 bucks is a TON! Just some research i did was if you're able to find the 20" option, tires become SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper....i believe we share the 20" size with some other domestic vehicles.....the 19" seems to be somewhat specific for only a few makes/models. i paid 110 bucks a tire for mine....mounting/balancing was another 100
  6. clarksongli
    have another look at the parking brakes.....if you were able to pull the rotor off without opening the tensioner, chances are you bent the shoes outward and they are rubbing on the inner side of the hub surface (not the pad surface). Also not sure when you completed this DIY, but i posted a DIY in the DIY section just for rear brake replacement which includes pictures as well....I know this doesn't help you now, but in the future or for anyone else.
  7. clarksongli
    Just as an FYI....the allowable limit of wear on the front rotors is so marginal almost everytime you do a pad replacement, rotors generall have to be done as well if your using OEM pad compound. Personally i went with stoptech (owned by centric)......pads again i went with stoptech. I was personally very leary with centric quality....but i got the rotors and pads and i was somewhat pleased. Pads were GREAT....very low dust and i didn't sacrafice a ton of brake feel (they are softer on initial bite, but if i need to lay into them, they brake just as hard, with no fade) ROTORS....the big difference is the rotor hat quality....casting was rougher and was not zinc coated.....basically they get a rust film immediately....simple solution was to spray some black paint on the hats. Overall i think i spent a little over 300 bucks and have been super happy ever since....only thing that annoys me is the pad clunk that other have talked about....not sure why it started after the new pads, but it never did it before i changed over the pads. Hope this helps.
  8. clarksongli
    There were quite a few quirks with these 1st gen CTTs....it's almost impossible to list them all Coolant pipes waterpump/Tstat housing starter coils front differential shift solenoid coolant Tee's driveshaft wheel bearings i wouldn't put too much faith in the CPO inspection....all said and done....anyone with a set of eyes can perform the inspection, and it only really covers the basics. I bought my CTT with 60k or so for 24k.....so 115k seems kind of high for that price but you are buying from a stealership, so that is expected. I think you can ask many of us on here, and we all love our CTTs....but it's a hobby to own one more than anything....i typically am doing some sort of nick nack "improvement" on my CTT every weekend or so....maybe not a fix, but an upgrade or check of some sort. I do all my own work, so i've never dealt with stealership prices, but keep that in mind....the upkeep is not as cheap when compared to other SUVs on the road today. It sounds like you may be able to do wrenching yourself, at which point this may be a good choice for you.....as far as i'm concerned, these are the best bang of the buck SUVs to buy used these days......450hp, decent mpg considering the weight of the car, and plenty of tow capacity for track cars and such....hell i use mine to pull out stumps. Get some pics up if you do buy it!
  9. clarksongli
    same here....i can only assume the ambient sensor is somewhere behind one of the grills.....when you shut the car down, it becomes heat soaked....but once you start it and drive forward, the air being direction into the front grills cool the sensors back down closer to real ambient.....but like Odix said, it always reads slightly higher than ambient and takes longer to return to normal when it's hot outside.
  10. clarksongli
    i chose to stick with the OEM fluids for the diffs....depending on the options, you may have both lockable differentials similar to myself. As best as i can tell, they use a friction disc to provide limited slip ability. Because of this, you will notice in the sevice bulletin that the lockable differentials require a different oil than the standard differentials....from the VOAs i have done, there is a friction modifier in the fluid....assumingly to provide the lockable function on the friction disc. Anyways....Burmah is out of business, so you won't find it online anymore.....so i chose to buy OEM fluid for the diffs, really because i tend to require the locking feature when i'm off road. Either way it's only 3 liters to fill both differentials, so whether you do OEM from suncoast parts, or redline.....it's a cheap and easy maintainence step for the car
  11. clarksongli
    definitely not the clutch.....CTTs are 6 speed slush boxes so no manual clutch setup to speak of....just a torque converter in the bell housing. have you checked the fluid level in the tranny? You will have to bring the fluid to 55C (durametric readout) then open the bottom port and try pumping in some more ATF (type IV toyota ATF is chemically identical fluid, see my other posts for the VOAs on each fluid). The other thing is did you replace your coolant pipes yet? Some have had coolant drip down into the bell housing and contaminate seals on the tranny before. If you want to rule out the tune quickly....go back to the oem tune
  12. clarksongli
    just something to realize.....the suncoast porsche branded battery charger is just a c-tek 3300 with a different sticker on it. you can pick one up on amazon for 68 bucks. http://www.amazon.com/Multi-12-Volt-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1348166020&sr=8-2&keywords=porsche+battery+charger
  13. clarksongli
    Sounds like maybe a bad ground, or a bad injector relay.
  14. clarksongli
    No offense, but this has nothing to do with Transmission or differential fluids.....it also sounds like you were sold a bill of goods....you do realize switching from 0w-40, to 5w-40 doesn't change the warm temperature viscosity.....also i'm not sure how a dealership can pull an "unkown" code.... As for M1 0w-40....i don't necesarily buy the "declined quality".....i have performed oil samples for years now on the same M1 fluid, and the VOA have always showed the same specs.....M1 0w-40 is actually very high in detergents as well. I have always run 0w-40 in not just the porsche, but my race motors as well....
  15. clarksongli
    two things to point out here: 1. LPG has less energy content than gasoline.....about 25% less actually 2. We bought not just Cayenne's, but Cayenne TURBOS.....if i wanted good MPG i would have bought a 4cyl....i bought a CTT for big power, large tow capacity, and space.....do i like paying money for gas? No.....but i pay to play....not i hate more than people who complain about gas prices that own an SUV.....
  16. clarksongli
    There are write ups in the DIY section of this forum........
  17. clarksongli
    as far as i know there is no direct upgrade available on the 955s. But you would most likely need to buy something similar to this, and try splicing them into your DRLs or whatever else you want them to run with (low beams/high beams/fogs). http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-POWER-5-LED-SUPER-BRIGHT-DAYTIME-RUNNING-LIGHTS-BUMPER-SIGNAL-GRILL-FOG-LAMPS-/180839050764?fits=Model:Cayenne|Year:2004&hash=item2a1ad8ee0c&item=180839050764&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
  18. clarksongli
    are they talking about the small bleed line that runs over the top of the main coolant pipes? It connects to the passenger side head and is about 1/4" in diameter....hard plastic? chances are it broke off inside the port (very common). Just get some needle nose pliers, pull the plastic out and buy the new part.....the turbo Tees are not under the manifold, and would only pour out the bottom.
  19. clarksongli
    Personally.....i change my oil every 5k.....60 dollars in oil is worth it to ensure the oil is in good shape.....the lubrication properties aren't a concern as much with newer synthetics....but with blow by and case venting, you have to start to watch carbon and HC buildup....new contaminated oil is just as bad as old oil in my opinion. As for which oil....i've always used M1 0w-40....in the CTT and my track cars.....M1 has good detergent properties, which matches well with my NON EXTENDED oil changes. If you ever have a chance to tear down a motor that has been running M1 0w-40 (be careful, not all M1 weights are full synthetic) you will notice the inside will be spotless and can be wiped clean with a simple cloth). fluids are one of those things that i believe can't be changed too often.....it's cheap insurance.....i burn about a quart every 5k with the CTT with 0w-40.....i have been thinking about stepping up to a 50 weight only because the V8 does run hotter than typical engines (especially in stop and go). Finally.....you will not feel the difference in power by changing your oil.....sorry Mike.....if you're performance starts to "drop" because of oil issues.....it will drop and not return....bearing damage will occur much quicker than any other oiling issue
  20. clarksongli
    Is this what you were looking for?
  21. clarksongli
    There will be a little if you're using a prybar. Remember the bushings are rubber, so with enough force they will move a bit. My suggestion would be to get the front end up (unweighted) and pull the bottom of the tire in and out....see if there is play there.... inspect the bushings....over time it's possible the rubber has fallen out/apart. There are really only a few things that can cause "camber" play: 1. Control arm bushings 2. Ball joints 3. Wheel bearings (only to the slightest extent) Check the upper control arm as well, sloppy camber could also be a result of the top arm not locating correctly as well.
  22. clarksongli
    i had the OEM Michelin Diamaris tires.....good all around tire, but they wear a little faster than the Kuhmos....not as loud as the Kuhmos but certainly not super quiet either.....and finally....they are over 3X the cost per tire! Then i switched to the kuhmo stx kl12's....awesome traction, great wearing tire....and 116 a tire......CHEAP!.....downfall....i had to go with a 45 instead of a 40 (i have the 20" option on my CTT). The tire makes a lot of road noise because the tread pattern is more spread out than most. I daily drive my track car in the summer.....fully stripped/tubbed/caged, so i'm used to a ton of road noise.....but i will admit these seem much louder than a SUV tire should be. Otherwise, i have zero complaints on the tire. I heard great things about the Conti DWS tires.....and they are around 236 a tire..... Overall, i use my CTT for towing and just general bumming around.....so a cheaper longer lasting tire was what i was looking for.....if you use yours for long trips/family time then maybe go with a slightly more expensive, but quieter tire. I do see now that they make 40 and 45 series tires for the ones i just mentioned, so i would stick with the oem size unless you have crappy roads where you might want a little more side wall height. Good luck and if you have questions on those tires i mentioned, let me know.
  23. clarksongli
    it depends somewhat on which cayenne you have (V6,V8,Turbo). But those numbers are in the ball park for a V8/turbo. I have a CTT, i get about 15mpg mixed, but in stop and go traffic, it goes way down like you had mentioned. I've never seen 10mpg, but i have also never driven solely stop and go city traffic.
  24. clarksongli
    Cayenne Turbo rear brake pad and rotor DIY Tools needed: 2 - Jack Stands factory jack or floor jack (not shown) Breaker bar or pipe for tight bolts 1/2" ratchet 3/8" ratchet 4" extension 1/2" drive (roughly) 3" extension 3/8" drive (roughly) 3/8" to 1/4" adapter T-50 Torx bit M16 Triple Square M5 Triple Square 19mm Socket Wheel Lock Socket 5mm Allen key 1.5mm Allen key Pair of pliers or good multitool razor blade or knife Brake Cleaner FLASHLIGHT Optional: a good set of allen keys - obviously mine are craftsman a Author clarksongli Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 07/10/2012 04:22 PM
  25. clarksongli
    i say give it a shot...worst case you burn 68 bucks....and even if you go and buy the real durametric later on, you will still be cheaper than a visit for a PIWIS. Plus you can get back to us on whether or not it is worth it....support the forum community....i spend 60 bucks on VOA samples from blackstone labs to validate Toyota Type IV and Porsche ATF were one in the same.....let's test this durametric cable now too! But to comment on the "China" comment....just because something isn't made in the US doesn't automatically make it crap....i would be willing to bet the ICs that Durametric uses are made somewhere on the Pacific Rim....most all electronic components are these days are because of health and cost issues associated with the manufacturing processes.
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