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clarksongli

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Everything posted by clarksongli

  1. So the turbo can definitely be removed with the engine in place. Downpipe comes off with some wobbles and long extensions from the rear. The bolts for the turbos are also easily accessed with the same method but from the top. The more difficult part are the coolant lines and oil lines.....very little room to swing a wrench. As for the turbos themselves (up to 06, don't quote me) had the IHI RHF5 VF43 turbos. guess what....all they are used elsewwhere.....you can usually find them used for 100 to 200 bucks shipped. Careful because some came with 3 bolt hot sides. There is a huge aftermarket for these things now.....so you can buy everything from hot side wheels and shafts to simple rebuild kits. Don't let the stealer take your money.....while somewhat involved to take out......you only need basic hand tools to do it.
  2. how old are the blades? check to see that the rubber inserts are still free floating. Sometimes they get bound up on the tension piece of the wiper and prevent it from fully flexing down.
  3. Thanks. Expansion tanks actually sell separate from the cap. But this is the one that worries me a little. Starter was already done maybe 3k ago. Coolant Vent Pipe always get's changed with the aluminum pipes, so that was done The Tees are getting replaced by aluminum CNC ones and new hoses. Waterpump is my next biggest worry. When I changed the serp belt last time I spun it to see if there was any bearing play, it seemed to be tight still. Has anyone seen the impeller split off of the shaft? Do idlers and tensioners fail typically on these cars?
  4. So call me a nervous nelly, but in the past month i've done more maintenance then my entire ownership of the CTT. The latest is the stupid Coolant Tees. I got it out and have my aluminum Tees on order. But what else should i do while i'm at it, if anything? Expansion Tank? Original tank, 130k on it Expansion Cap? Replaced at 125k Coolant Pipes? Replaced with aluminum ones at ~80k Water Pump? Replaced at ~67k. How long do these normally last? THermostat? Never Replaced, 130k on it Coolant Tees? Replacing now with aluminum ones. Anything i missed? It only takes me maybe an hour to pull the manifold these days. It's just annoying. I hate to just throw parts at my car, but i really don't feel like doing a water pump next week or something. Any experience or feedback would be appreciated.
  5. if you havent buggered up the seal on the piston you can just push it back in. Do it all the time on my track car.
  6. icarsoft is really closer to the generic OBD2 scanners than to a piwis. It makes an attempt at providing extra features, but falls short. A good example is the tool cannot reset service or airbag lights. 2 pretty fundamental things you would expect from a "non generic" scanner. Honestly i think durametric also falls short. They are very similar to where Vagcom was 10 years ago or so. Functionality is basically there, but the program itself has quirks and sometimes is unstable. But bottom line, i bit the bullet and bought a used durametric. Probably the best thing i did besides the aluminum coolant pipes haha. You can find them for $150 or less used. I think i bought mine for 120 with 2 VINs left on it. Good luck.
  7. You can try adjusting the latch catch itself. But this will only work temporarily. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/309-adjusting-rear-glass-latch-eliminate-open-glass-warning/ The sensor itself is for the Glass and located right under where the glass latches physically. The sensor is normally open, so what that means is you can just unplug it and it will think it's always closed. This is what i did since the sensor is not easily replaced and is apart of the latch assembly. get inside and close the hatch. then get to work pulling the plastic off by the window ( i think the sides have to at least be loosened for the bottom plastic frame to be removed) you will see a little micro switch in the center below the glass, it will have a 2 prong plug. unplug that. Good Luck.
  8. Move the coils to the opposite side and see if the misfires follow the coilpacks. If it does, then you know its the coils, if it doesn't then it's something else. You can do the same with the plugs as well. Mindlessly buying parts doesn't seem to be a good way to solve this issue. Plug gap is fine, you're running the correct heat range plug, i know you said they are OEM, just make sure they are. 30 vs. 32 gap shouldnt make a difference.
  9. 2004. just the one side, talking with Porsche they don't always replace in pairs. Arnott Industries makes a revision to the setup (convoluted bag without the aluminum can), which is when they recommend doing the pair swap. At least according to Sunset. Ride height sensors on all 4 corners take up whatever difference there might be between the bags. If it were a wearable component like a strut i would consider a pair, but an aluminum can that shouldn't just explode in two i'm ok with the one in my brain. But believe me, i definitely took a look at the other 3 cans to be sure there were no others that had cracks in them.
  10. Just figured i would share. Christmas Day heading down to see the parents i had a loud BANG come from the front left. sounded like i had a rock kick up under the car or something. Completely flat, fresh pavement, so no bumps of any kind around. Anyways i didn't see anything come out the back of the car and no warning lights so i figured i'd keep driving. Got to my parents, and as i'm pulling in i get a suspension warning. Weird, still same ride height so enjoyed the day with my family. Coming home, the car was at the loading height in the front. definitely sitting on the bump stops. Got a replacement from Germany through Miessler for 289 with the new o rings. A STEAL considering sunset wanted 1200. replacement is pretty easy. Something to keep in mind. take a look at the aluminum cover that split on me. Mine had cracks for a long time, but never really though anything of it. Enjoy!
  11. the H8 battery is the main one under the driver seat. That's the one you want to replace if you are having squirrely electrical issues. How old is the battery? I regularly plug in my battery to my ctek and i typically get a few years out of them. First battery lasted 6 years, and actually i still have the battery powering my generator starter. Second battery has 4 years or so on it, still going strong. Definitely recommend running your ctek every week or so just to keep it topped off.
  12. for 4 zone i believe that the entire center air handler is actually in the trunk. driver side. someone correct me if i'm wrong. has its own heater core and blower. '
  13. So the wheels have a different clock spring all together, so based off of that, I'd say no. BUT if you look at the interface on the wheel side, the connectors look the same. On the "car" side, they are much different. Do you have a source for a really cheap 2011 wheel? I'd say buy it and check it out.
  14. I would say it's not a common problem, but you see it more and more these days. The most common failure is the pinion/or output bearings loosening up, which cause the gear mesh to get a little funky. The other failure that I have seen (including mine) is the pinion preload get's sloppy, causing the pinion gear to slide in and out depending on the load. Again it basically will mangle the gears up. The positive side (if there can be one) is that you will basically just keep driving it. Now if you JUST started noticing it, I would drain the fluid and see if there is metal in it. If it's shiny, you've already started the killing process. If not, I'd consider pulling the front axle out and seeing if I could find a bearing set to replace whatever is worn. For me, it was already too late. I've been driving on it for maybe 80k miles. Is it annoying? Yes. But for a few thousand dollars for a core exchange, i'll just live with the noise. I wouldn't bother disconnecting the axle. Computer wise it won't know the difference (except if you are slipping the wheel) I don't think. since the wheel sensors are the only thing providing feedback for the front. I'm not 100% sure which axle you have, but Timken does make replacement bearings for nearly all of them: LM503349 bearing cost: approx. $19-$30 retail Timken LM503349 Differential Bearing | Auto Parts Warehouse LM503310 seat/race cost: approx. $10-$15 retail Timken LM503310 Bearing Race | Auto Parts Warehouse These parts are relatively common and available through multiple distributors/dealers/auto parts stores.
  15. Any Idea where it came from? Looks like the pipes are all situated, but I see coolant in the freeze plugs and the bleeder T line up top. I'm guessing either the bleeder line is cracked (did you replace the line when you did the coolant pipes before?) Or the top of the tstat housing let loose (there is a tiny crush gasket in there that keeps me up at night. haha)
  16. 10 bucks says it was the dogbone mount only. all of the other mounts are under constant load (weight of engine/tranny). fyi i just replaced mine as well. i broke it last year and just left the bushing messed up.
  17. 150 bucks from rock auto. Bosch. Replaced it maybe a week ago? Honestly, #1 cost savings.....DIY.....even the starter, which is relatively a pain, is very basic in mechanical skills. Essentially 1 socket, 1 torx bit, and some extensions and you're good. My Cayenne, total has probably cost me 3k in repairs in going on 6 years? And that includes coolant pipes, radiator fans, fuel pumps, etc. #2 cost savings.....Cross Reference PNs. Every since site you will visit will say cayenne parts don't cross with anything.....if you do some digging, you will find the cayenne shares nearly every part with some other car (touareg/Q7 mostly). Hell did you know our radiator fans are shared with a Ford? Glad you got it fixed.
  18. Was the car stored outside when it was at the garage? We've seen this issue before, feel the driver side carpet and see if its wet. There are wires under the carpet which are sonically welded, and corrode pretty easily. A lot of time its the brown ground wire that goes. This issue happens so much that there is even a porsche repair for the dealerships. Not sure if this is the issue or not but it could be something to look at. Another option is to turn the car "on" and let it sit for 15 minutes or so and see if the fault clears itself....it take some time for it clear. Anyone with a durametric should be able to help you too.
  19. FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was the fan. So for future reference of anyone looking. Even if you measure voltage on the signal pins it doesnt mean the signal is incorrect. Also for reference. the VW touareg fan works.....it needs to be the non tow package fan(600w vs 800w). Bought mine for 150 bucks with a lifetime warranty! Feeling pretty good right now! For reference here are all the models the fan came in: UDI 7L0 959 455 E FORD 3M211 5150 BB FORD 1328625 PORSCHE 955 624 135 00 SEAT 7L0 959 455 E SEAT 7L0 959 455 B VW (VOLKSWAGEN) 7L0 959 455 B VW (VOLKSWAGEN) 7L0 959 455 E
  20. Yeah. I took a leap of faith and ordered a fan. I've checked as much as I could and from what I can tell, the car/harness side of the whole thing is working correctly. I'll know tonight when I get home from work.
  21. just fixed mine. its a vacuum breather hose. vents the oiling system. i replaced it with a stainless t. but i will tell you a drove without it for many years.
  22. literally just did this a few days ago....it does come out with all coolant pipes in. after unbolting it, slide the starter back and pull the motor end up about 45 degrees. rotate the starter clockwise and sort of jiggle and pull and turn.
  23. So here is my conclusion, based on half measurements and half hoping: The fan module is bad. If i pin on the measurements on the small fan, i get the exact measurements (whether it commands on or off) suggesting it is a PWM signal of some sort. Now that i can "assume" the signal is correct to the main right fan, that only leaves the fan itself. Here is a question, does anyone know if the fan is the same as the one on the touareg? The PN doesn't cross reference, but the part itself looks insanely similar. Here is a link to a picture: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2010-VW-Touareg-Radiator-Fan-Motor-1639642-/321925620544?fits=Model%3ATouareg&hash=item4af4432340:g:TtgAAOSw6dNWTm8b&vxp=mtr
  24. With the ac on the small driver side fan runs.....with the ac off the small driver side fan turns off. The large fan, from my understanding, does not operate with the ac system....only the engine coolant temperature. My question still remains the same. What should I be reading with the meter on those two signal wires? Is 12v and .3v appropriate for full speed? Talking about the relays again I see there is something called the hcs relay in that diagram....what does hcs stand for?
  25. That is the A/C fan, I'm talking about the large passenger side fan. It also has a "box" attached to it. Here is my original question, I've already taken the fan out of the car and plugged in 12v with no "signal" wire....the doesn't run....which tells me that the signal wire is commanding the fan to come on. IMO this rules out the fan and module attached to it. But maybe I'm wrong? In my ORIGINL post, the 2 signal wires show 12v and ~.3V......I think it's the 12v that's triggering the fan to come on. Ahsai is correct in his assumption that either the Durametric system or the OEM PIWIS should be able to trigger the fan to run. I think yours should look something like this: Jeff, no offense, but triggering a fan to run, which is already running, isn't going to tell me anything. If I already know the trigger wire is hot when it shouldn't be, I need to figure out why that trigger wire is hot. Hence why I asked the question, where is this motor control unit. It is NOT the one on the fan housing. If you look at the wiring diagram, the module has only three wires, and it is connected between both fans.....if you look on the fan housing, and in your picture, they clearly are never connected until you trace back into the car side of the harness.
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