Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
clarksongli
-
Posts
325 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Events
Forums
External Paint Colors
Downloads
Tutorials
Links Directory
Collections
Store
Everything posted by clarksongli
-
was it like a hot burning smell? Cat's might have got hot running that mile with surging fuel pressure. It isn't model specific as far as most of us can tell since the same fuel system is shared on different trim levels and years. My guess.....the left pump is running much more than the right.....add in a messy filter and the fact that the system runs at 4 bar, with what appears to be a generic pump, i think it taxes the pump up to the capacity it is capable of running, leading to shorter life. I'm going to pull the plastic housing apart on my old pump simply because when you look in there....it looks near identical to typical walbro and other inline/intake pumps. -
No actually i talked with both suncoast Porsche as well as my friends father, who is the Porsche Master Mechanic for a large NY shop, they both said to replace just the one. So we will see, but i've worked with my friends father before, and i trust him for sure.....he has won the annual porsche tech challenge many times, so i don't doubt his experience and knowledge.
-
fuel pump and filter replaced....Problem SOLVED! DIY coming soon!
-
Tip oil capacity
clarksongli replied to Gary9425's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
FYI for next time.....the OEM Porsche fluid is toyota type 4 fluid.....if you search my name, or in the stickied oil recommendations thread, you will see the oil analysis i did between Porsche and Type 4 Fluid. At 7 bucks a quart for type 4....you can afford to change the fluid whenever you chose, including valve bodies, or filter changes. -
does anyone know if you need to replace both pumps at the same time....i heard rumors. There will be a detail DIY coming out of this...stay tuned.
-
I cannot comment on coil pack issues as in around 100k miles of Cayenne (3 cars) ownership I have never had a spark related problem. However what you describe in the first two lines of your first post is identical to what I experienced when one of my fuel pumps failed. The car may run normally again after switching off and restarting. With regards to the rich issue, a number of people have reported improved fuel economy after fuel pump replacement. So i am shocked...but i pulled the codes.....had a few fuel low pressure ones..... did the fuse trick to isolate which pump....pull #14 and the car runs fine....so driver side pump is bad i believe?
-
i hope so haha. Yeah i tried driving the car maybe a mile to get into a safe parking area. Then the car was off for maybe 2 hours before driving it off the truck into my driveway.
-
Thanks! that clears up one concern of mine! JFP, do you see situations where several coils fail causing BOTH near undriveable condition as well as wet plugs in all cylinders? I guess the other thing i should mention is i only drove the car maybe 200 ft before checking the plugs.....maybe it didn't run long enough and the plugs were all wet simply because it only ran for 30 seconds?
-
i guess one of the big questions would be can a coil fail without cracking? I'll check the fuses, but since none of the coils have shorted to the head, i would assume the fuses would be ok. I suppose it could be a fuel pump, although i know i was running pig rich, which i assumed was failed spark? the cats were screaming hot, and plugs were wet....i would guess a failed fuel pump would do the opposite? Run Lean? Hopefully this isn't the case....my thought it isn't since sometimes it would run clean....but only for short periods of time.
-
no which fuses to check?
-
So i was driving home today from work, and all of a sudden it stumbled, then would not maintain speed.....press gas more and it just sputters......so i coast it out as far as i could. Try driving it slightly to get into a parking lot and it sputters and shakes hard.....definitely not driveable. Got towed home and pulled the coilpacks and plugs.....the car idles semi ok, and after it cooled down a bit seemed to be "better" None of the coil packs have cracks.....plugs were all gas soaked. coilpacks are all .04 revisions. Questions: 1. Is this a typical coilpack failure....just all of a sudden multiple misfires and unable to continue to drive? No, not unable to drive 2. will a few failed coils end up soaking all plugs at some point, or did i somehow fail all coilpacks at once? No, only the cylinders that are missing should show signs of running cold 3. Do they always crack when failed, or can they fail without being cracked....None of mine seem cracked. Yes, they don't need to be cracked to have failed, or starting to fail. Thanks. I have almost 100k on those coils, so i felt like i was running on borrowed time, so it seems logical. SOLVED: It was the driver side fuel pump. Looks for the DIY
-
Beautiful garage. Not a whole lot of tools though? I want to see pics of the VW! I have a 84 Rabbit.....twin engine. You have so much room in there, get some more tools!
-
Partial AC Failure
clarksongli replied to spooltime's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Hold the Auto button an then it will display MONO on the HVAC sceen. But whether it's mono or not, the same servo controls the warm/cold mix.....it is possible the control sign is bad, but 99.99% of the time, it means one of the servos stuck or failed. -
Not sure how to get Porsche to own up to that, but if it was truely Dealer maintained, then i would definitely go after that. But on a side note. That is an unusual failure....not too often do you see a major failure like that so long into it's life cycle so suddenly. Normally you hear signs of it first (rod knock or something). The bad news is that your block is toast. I wouldn't even bother trying to sleeve it if there is a visible crack in the wall.The cheapest option is to pull the motor, and break it down completely. Chances are eveything is useable still except for items related to that cylinder. You can save big bucks by reusing heads, crank, pistons and rods. Rebuilt anything from Porsche is VERY expensive, and generally why it is never worth the cost. If you check out the salvage yards, they are generally around 7k for a same mileage motor. Certainly a little risky since you won't know the condition until starting it up. you can get a block for about 1000 bucks from a yard. Check out Car-Parts.com
-
boost gauge
clarksongli replied to mbagge01's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Is the dash boost gauge not working? If you only need to see positive boost, then anywhere in the plumbing is fine. if you need to see vacuum, you will need to find a port on the manifold itself inbetween the throttle body and intake ports on the heads. -
So i've been ordering my filters through suncoast porsche for a long time now, but i figured i would take a chance on one of my amazon orders. Here are some comparison shots: The short of it....looks like Mahle is one of the OEM suppliers of this filter. In case anyone was looking to save a few bucks. I change mine every 5-10k so i buy several a year. for 13 bucks and change. http://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-OX-128-1D/dp/B004JBQ3T8/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Porsche%7C2&Model=Cayenne%7C19&Year=2004%7C2004&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive
-
yeah i actually just did my oil change last night....pulled the pipe off like normal. I realized, that metal retaining clip doesn't need to come off completely....if you can wiggle just the one end that you can see over the retaining slot, the pipe will come free. Saves you time and eliminates the chance of that ring flying at you. Definitely could be a turbo seal/bearing, but i would still say unlikely. running a heavier weight oil will also reduce the vapor going through the evap. However it sounds like you are burning oil, and the majority of this happens at the cylinder rings.... basically you have a scraper ring that is there to wash down the cylinder walls, but over time cylinder become out of round, scratches form, rings gum up. The more cylinders you have, the more surface area you have for oil to escape. That's typically why V8s have a higher allowed consumption rate than a 4 cylinder. That being said, change your oil often, and do sample testing if needed. I've been playing with change intervals for a while now.....5k changes show very little to no wear in the oil with plenty of additive left. 7k showed more, but still within acceptable limits. 10k is where it starts to drop off. I have 100k on my CTT, and i burn less than a quart every 10k.
-
my clip still is removeable with the bumper till on, so get under there and try wiggling it out. Basically the oil breather setup "vents" into the driver side turbo inlet. Most car manufacturers use the engine vacuum to pull vacuum on the crankcase/valvetrain. The benefit is that it pulls gasses out and prevent early contamination to your oil.....the downfall is that the gas holds oil vapor. When that vapor enters and is cooled, the oil drops out and eventually you have a pool of oil.....this is perfectly normal, but is annoying since it pools in the low point of the intercooler piping. I always drain the pipe every 5k when i do my oil changes. and spray some brake clean to get as much residue out as i can. now it is POSSIBLE your turbo bearing/seals are going and causing oil to bypass, but is unlikely. They do make "catch cans" which basically condense the oil prior to entering the inlet piping.....definitely not a bolt in application and you would need to make a "universal" one work.
-
So there has been a lot of talk lately about Techtron and Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant(UCL) fuel treatment. So i figured i do a bit of testing. Below is an example of the boroscope pictures i took: Over the next several weeks/months i will be running UCL through the tank. Will do my best not to change my driving habits, and luckily back and forth to work is very stable mix of back roads, traffic, and highway speed. Car is always run with discount fuels(unfortunately) and will continue to use the same fuel to stay consistent. My second car will also be doing the same test to validate results. I don't have any direction injection cars so no way to test that. Stay tuned...... UPDATE: So i have run 20 tanks of fuel through the car. Filled up at the same station every time except for a trip to VT. See the picture below..... Bottom Line: No noticeable improvement in fuel mileage. No added cleaning inside the combustion chambers.....or barely anything Next Steps: Techtron Fuel Cleaner
-
Sounds like you will be using a dealer/indy shop to maintain the car? So then i personally would NOT buy from the porsche dealership. Out of PRINCIPLE, i do not support that type of crappy behavior, and i am willing to pay more elsewhere for professionalism. The issue though is you need to find a good dealership or indy shop.....so find that first, then you can figure out if you buy/sell at carmax, or dealer only. My own opinion.....i would go back to that dealership, talk with the owner/manager and explain to him/her that you will not only never do business with them, but will also recommend to anyone not too as well. His one crappy employee just lost your business + whoever else listens to you. And i don't care if it's only one employee or all the employees......each one represents the company, and it reflects on the management that this sales guy is allowed to operate in such a disgusting manner. As a frame of reference, i bought my parents a new Honda.....same experience as you.....i went elsewhere and paid 5k more for the same car....took the car and the sticker price back to the crappy dealership and showed their manager, and called the sales guy out by name, that money wasn't the issue, it was the professionalism. Since then i have bought another honda for my parents, and each time i bring that to the crappy dealership to show them the value of having crappy employees. I am a person of principles.....some call it holding a grudge, but at the end of the day, if you aren't willing to stick to your guns.....then you are just as bad as the crappy sales guy.
-
If you feel up to it, you can unbolt the lower control arms and swing the arm out to look at the bushings...this is a typical play zone.....just try not to touch the outer spindle ball joint bolts, or you may need to get another alignment. Basically: 1. Disable air suspension 2. Jack up front of car 3. Take tire off 4. Unbolt the front and rear lower control arm bolts. 5. let the entire assembly swing out....and take a look at the bushings for cracks/breaks
-
performance with a turbo does not decline with colder climates....and the added complexity is minimal since they are a purely mechanical device. Also the turbo "lag" that you were likely feeling is related to the transmission, and not completely due to turbo lag......there is a fairly large delay in the transmission, which is annoying, but normal. These engines use 2 k16 turbos, which is relatively small for the displacement of the motor, so lag is minimal. MPG might be an issue with the cayenne and your goals.....they claim 15-17mpg, but i think most of us can tell you, around town you will not see very good mileage (i get about 14mpg with normal driving in town). Because of the weight of the cayenne, whether it's the V6, V8, or V8TT, they will all get about the same mileage assuming you aren't flooring it. No matter what you chose, these cars are relatively reliable.....a few quirks, which is typical for most of the german manufacturers, but stay up with the maintainence and you will see 10years no problem. Around me, 300k cayennes is pretty typical. Finally....direct injection....the benefits in performance are outweighed in issues IMO....which is why i personally stuck to the older 955s. My opinion.....go with the CTT.....go big or go home.....its cheaper, and will have more bells and whistles. CS's are a dime a dozen....CTTs are not.
-
can someone explain to me how bad fuel pumps cause increased fuel consumption? Is the failure mode that the pumps surges randomly? We run a regulated return fuel system, so can't seem to understand why a pump would change fuel consumption
-
Off road tire noise
clarksongli replied to stevie s's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Low fluid can cas Diff noise, although if you are at that point, damage as already been done to the front diff. niether problem would be felt through the pedals...... here is a way to tell if you have a tire or driveline problem.....drive at a normal speed where you can hear the noise and slightly lift off the gas so you are basically "neutral" and not accelerating or decelerating...... If the noise changes or goes away you got a diff problem......if it remains, it sounds like a tire or maybe a wheel bearing. From what i can inspect on mine ( i have a diff problem) the pinion bearing and preload relaxes over time....this causes unacceptable lash on the gear contact area.....when you load and unload the power, the helical cuts preload the pinion gear/shaft into the bearing/housing. the problem is common....the fix is expensive....and complete failure is low....basically drive on it....i've put 50k on mine and the noise is louder, but no collateral damage to note. -
Entry & Drive issue
clarksongli replied to elc32955's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Very strange though that your normal key turns fine..... have you compared the slot cut in the dummy vs. your real key?
