Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

GSpence2

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    153
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by GSpence2

  1. Ah Brother Lewis I so pray you are correct! We'll know more tomorrow, or more likely Tuesday. Fingers crossed. And tell ya what, if it is the oil cooler then I'll buy the first three rounds at the O-Club!
  2. Morning Big. Coffee? It's got just under 131K miles. Not sure what let loose. The fan is spraying oil all over the place so it's hard to tell where it's coming from. I'm thinking it's one or possibly both head gaskets because the coolant definitely has oil in it, thankfully not a lot but it's in there. Some how it doesn't smell like fuel though, still smells like fresh sweet coolant so this is definitely a new thing. Odd thing is I've still got decent power delivery and gitty-up! No bangs, bucks, CEL, hard starting, only a low oil light and then the discovery. Both valve cover gaskets were already weeping and I had an appointment scheduled next week to remedy those anyway. They seem to last about 2 years because every two years at this same time I have to have them changed. I was planning on doing a full fluid and filter swap anyway. I guess now I'll plan on doing a rebuild or engine swap. Well, at least Santa has a sense of humor then
  3. An oil warning light, oil everywhere, a horrible rattle rattle and an untimely huge repair bill! (You gotta say it to the tune of the 12-days of Christmas. At least that way it's tolerable.) P1000116.wmv
  4. yup. seems like every 2 years I'm replacing mine. last time was December 2014, left bank was leaking so replaced both.. Guess what? gotta leak again this time from right bank.
  5. I had this same problem. turned out the actual fitting inside the lamp broke away from the lamp housing if that makes sense. I guess I turned it too hard and the bulb fitting - a bayonet like mount - broke away so that the socket wasn't making contact. the fix? - a used headlamp @ $450.00. you can try to disassemble the lamps & then hot glue or crazy glue the socket in place but that's hit or miss
  6. pre-purchase inspection by a qualified tech that actually knows the vehicle. ask your current insurance agent or broker to check the VIN for prior losses as incorrect or improper collision repair could come back to haunt you. your insurance professional should be able to check the VIN for claims history without issue. insist on service records and/or receipts. drive it and use it to make sure it is really something you want. good luck!
  7. yup. I've got this same issue after a few very cold nights. not sure there's fix. I can live with it though
  8. I did a full fluid service - flush and change - about a year ago and while I did notice that my CTT warmed faster in cold weather, it still was very sluggish and slow to shift after sitting over night in the near zero temps we had. After the fluids warmed through however it was good to go.
  9. my CTT does this in cold weather like we have now. until the fluids are warmed through it feels crazy sluggish
  10. Hi jsrbrown, I have swapped for LEDs but did swapped for HIDs & I regret it! Constant false errors. Switching back the halogens this weekend
  11. talk to your local broker or agent for one of the major carriers about a Stated Amount Policy. I recommend Progressive
  12. http://www.wsfa.com/story/28945992/danger-ahead-exploding-sunroofs-a-surprisingly-common-problem
  13. wow! sorry this happened to you, but actually it is a fairly common problem. Maybe not with Porsche's but certainly with other makes. I'm in the insurance industry and have seen this problem several times, particularly with Ford & Land Rover pano-roofs. There is also at least one complaint at http://www.safercar.gov/ about a Cayenne's pano-roof self destructing. I would present this info to the dealer and Porsche NA for further investigation and resolution
  14. I've had this problem too with Yoko's on my 928. make sure you have the correct pressures set and a correct alignment
  15. funny we had a slight cold snap here too. I had let my CTT sit for about 4 days and when I went out to start it my dash was a Christmas tree, the PCM was unavailable also.I drove a few miles,did the 148 reset and everything was okay
  16. BTW I am also very familiar with Pam & Chris @ Numme and Roman @ Star Service. If it were my 997, I'd be going to Star Service.
  17. Technik One huh? I know those guys. Okay so we're looking at a bumper replacement along with the rebar and brackets, let's assume the headlamps housings are cracked along the bottom behind the bumper, the 2 heat exchangers up front and the related air guides, the frunk lid and latch, blend the fenders assuming they're not damaged, set up the car and measure it out make sure the unibody is straight and if not a little pull time, labor, paint & materials, my educated guess is you're in for $9-$10.5k
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.