creekman

Philip, Thanks for the reply, when you decide on which foam you're going to use would you post your choice and the vendor who can supply it? Is there a definite link that shows how to get to the A/C doors? I bet the dealer would get $600-$1,000 to do that work? Thanks, Mitch

Since you brought it up I know earlier posts have blown off the idea of replacing the foam. I've been picking it out of my vents for several months now. However, the cold air doesn't immediately get cold, some times it takes 10 minutes before it really starts blowing cold. Could this be the lack of foam on the doors or something else? What does the foam accomplish? Thanks, Mitch

Don't know about all your questions, but I do know that you'll have to reset the airbag fault once your seat is re-connected.

Tricky business... do you have a multimeter? You really need one to chase down the drain. If you have or by now borrow a multimeter you can disconnect the positive side of the battery and set the multimeter to DC Amps. Put one lead from the multimeter on the positive battery post and the other lead on the removed battery cable. Also, you'll need to have the multimeter leads plugged into the correct plug inserts as well as have the multimeter dial set on DC A 10A scale. If the above shows more than a ma draw then you can start pulling fuses. No need to pull head light fuses since you can tell if they're on or not. It's the alarm, radio, interior lights that can do this. Remember after you turn off the key it will take some time for the computer, interior lights to settle down. I've waited for an hour before I got a .06ma draw. With the interior lights just after closing the door, I showed .55A, then in time, it settled down to .06ma. Also, the alternator can leak back through the diodes so you can disconnect the lead(s) to the alternator. I found out recently that if you reach in and turn the key on to check mileage, what ever, then turn the key back off without opening and closing the door the interior lights stay on. I've never left them on long enough to find out if they time out. Always remove the key from the ignition. I'm no expert on this but have stumbled through with a similar problem... Lastly, have you had your battery load tested? Good luck, Mitch

I've never had any luck doing a partial Airlift, and the Airlift directions specifically state that the system has to be completely drained for it to work. But if it worked for you that's great, I wish I knew what you know. I think Loren's advice is the best on a partial fill... Just drive the car for a few minutes, then let it sit, eventually, it will clear itself of air. I tried one of those large yellow funnels that fit into the surge tank and allow for the water to back up in the funnel. I did that one day, but all of a sudden coolant back up like an erupting volcano, coolant everywhere, but it turned out that the system had belched all the trapped air and from that point after filling it was happy.

I had the surge tank hose come loose from the left radiator, so I made the repair and tried to use the Airlift tool, but because there was a residual about of coolant left in the system it wouldn't work. I filled the system up the best I could, drove the car and it over heated, then refilled and got it over filled and it over heated again. The system is very prone to trapped air and unless you completely drain the system and use the Airlift tool to fill it I think it's problematic that you're going to have trapped air for some time. The rub is getting the system drained, I hate messing with good hose connections and I don't know which hoses would get the job done. Maybe removing the hoses from the aluminum water pipes under the car. Also, the Porsche factory 3rd radiator is for an oil cooler, I had one made which is larger than the stock 3rd oil radiator. I'm not sure what the difference is between the oil and water radiators.

I have an OBD II reader from Auto Zone for $100 that will cancel a water temp gauge failure, but will not cancel/erace an airbag code. My water temp gauge failure is due to the Porsche computer doesn't recognize my LS3 motor. I also have the Durametric program which does it all. More expensive and you need a PC laptop. I bought an 11" Lenovo laptop for $119 from Best Buys that will run the Durametric program. If you plan on keeping the Porsche as I assume you do, then I would consider purchasing the Durametric program. The point is if you go with a cheapie OBD reader you need to be sure what it will and will not do... Are there any considerations as to running the car without functioning CATS?

I would just leave it as is, I have broken clips all over the car and they stay together, you might get into more trouble changing out the plug than just leaving it alone. Porsche should rethink this failure. While I'm on a rant there's no consistency on how to release the various electrical plugs and when you do there's a good chance you're going to break one of the release tabs.

Keith, I know that my local Car Quest Auto Parts store carries different quality wiper blades from cheap to expensive. I'm guessing the high quality blades would be an equal to the Porsche blades if they carried them. I think it al depends on how convenient it would be for you to get to a Porsche store. Either way it's not life changing.,. Mitch

Thanks Judgejon... come take a drive... Buford, after your reply I needed to go to the garage and make sure the back end of the car hadn't fallen off. You're a purist and that's ok, you've exaggerated some of the install alterations. I installed 4130 tubing mostly just to finish off the sheet metal. I believe Porsche has pushed the flat 6 about as far as it can go. It's a very complicated engine to get the HP. The clutch, spark plugs, water pump are only good for 60,000 miles, and the list goes on. The V8 makes it breath taking to drive and It's a great road car, but still a grocery getter if that's your choice. Just remember when you're at the Porsche Dealership changing spark plugs at $140/ hr. I'll still be trucking long beyond the life of your engine. What I will admit while the conversion will exceed all your expectations, it's expensive when done right and is not plug and play.

Either way whether the LS motor is lighter or heavier, the difference compared to the HP increase is the big difference. Just think how hard your M96 has to work to get 150 HP more... Hey, it's all in the eyes of the beholder.

First of all the 996 weight depends on it's accessories so its total weight is a moving target. However I don't know what all this leads up to if you want the extra horse power and a simple engine that produces a lot of grunt. I installed a LS3 480 HP, some GM specs says it's 495 HP, I won't argue that point... I put the car on aircraft scales and I'm 160 lb. lighter, however that is with the removal of the front diff. Also all the accessories are attached on the bottom of the engine, not on top, lower CG. The installation uses an electric water pump so no mechanical water pump. I can tell you it's no quick substitute for replacing the IMS bearing, clutch, etc. Making the Porsche and GM computers talk to one another was the biggest challenge. It's not for the shade tree mechanic... Now there's a lot of these conversions that throw used parts at the project, never deal with the blinking lights on the dash and only want to go 0-60 with their hair on fire, but to do it factory takes a lot of time and money. I don't think debating about a few pounds either way is really the question, it's time, money, performance, engine longevity, something different that is breath taking to drive. I took my car into the local Porsche dealership to put it on their OBD machine. When the guy drove the car into the mechanics stall the entire shop stopped working, took pictures, got under the car and were all in awe of the installation. Fortunately I didn't have to pay for the down time... I removed the front differential in favor of putting a taller ring and pinion in the car. At redline in 6th gear it pencils out at 206 MPH, not with me in it... At 80 MPH it's turning 2750 RPM, it's a lot quieter that the Porsche engine that is turning more RPM's. Bottom line, it's simple horse power and when you lift the deck lid you can see a real engine, not an air cleaner. Sorry in advance if I offended anyone...

I have the same problem, but my gauge stops at about 3/8 of a tank. In my case I have an LS3 V8 so I've interrupted what ever metering device was there. I've been told that the sensor in the tank reads to the bottom of the middle tank, then the Porsche computer takes over and computes fuel left and miles to go. So if my information is correct you have a mechanical read to the bottom of the center tank, then a computer read out for the remaining gas in the saddle tanks. There must be a transducer to read fuel flow by the computer. I tend to think you don't have a sensor problem, but a computer problem... I'll be interested in what you come up with, it's a pain to have to be guessing how many miles to go. In my case my mileage can fluctuate from 12 MPG to 24 MPG depending how spirited I drive the car.

It is the orange stuff for aluminum engines... Green for cast iron.

Wasfi , If you go with the stock rear end gears you'll leave all your tire rubber on the street, if you can afford it I would go with a 3:0 ring and pinion. My car turns about 2,800 RPM's at 80 MPH, or red line 205 MPH. If you don't change the ring and pinion you have too much HP for the low gears. Renegade Hybrid in Las Vegas has the adapter housing and clutch assemblies to connect the 350 SBC to the Porsche transaxle. I did all my own mechanical work, but the rub for me was mating the GM ECU to the Porsche instruments, etc. I spent a lot of money with a couple of hi-tech guys to make everything work including the cruise control. 2 Things that still have a hiccup is the temp gauge and gas gauge. I have a wide body car and the gas tank is configured differently, with a standard body car I don't you'll have that problem. As far as the water temp gauge there is no fix for that, it will work for awhile, then quit, I reset it with my OBDII reader and it's good again. I also installed a digital temp gauge as a backup. This conversion isn't cheap if you do it right with new parts so don't be mislead, there's a lot of expenses to make the conversion "factory". If you just want to go 0-60 with your hair on fire then that's another story. I have a LS3 480 HP motor, and it's breath taking to drive... Good luck, if I can help you further, just ask... misery loves company...

It sounds like you already know where you want your seat heater switches to be placed, I had a couple of empties on the horseshoe surround so moved mine there... Made a new bat wing filler. I like this since all the switches are in one place. You'll note that I exchanged places with the cubby and A/C control panel. Again I wanted all the business of switching and controls seamless to one another. I did have to section the cubby to fit, but it wasn't much good anyway other than a place for your iphone.

Roy, Do you have the Duarmetric program to erase faults... That might be one shot, is Loren suggesting that if you had a bad lamp that would make the C/C in-op? Have you depress the button on the end of the windshield stalk. I think that's right?

Turbo, there're two ways... first look in your owner's manual... There is a cable around the right side head light bucket area. Pretty difficult to get to unless you know where it is. The second and easiest would be to jump the electrical lugs at the kick panel fuse panel. You'll need an auxiliary 12 volt source for this. Again this procedure is described in your owner's manual. In my case when I had the front bumper cover off I routed the hood cable to the tow eye plug, so I would just need to pop off the tow eye plug and the cable was right there. Oh, I had to drill an 1/8" hole in the aluminum bumper to pull the cable through to the plug area.

In lieu of a Durametric program try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and see if that clears your fault...

You can go into the fuse panel (I would pull back the panel and work from the back) and use a light probe or multimeter to find switched power.

If you have removed your seat then you'll have to erase the airbag code.

Greg, As the other members suggested it sounds (no pun intended) like a throw out bearing. Usually any mechanic or even a non mechanic for the money will replace the throwout bearing if he gets within 10' of the clutch. It's the cheapest part of a clutch job. Do you have a work order that shows the parts that were installed? Have you tried to isolate the noise by moving the clutch pedal in and out... Sounds like you got a bad shop that won't even discuss your problem. Let us know what you find... Good luck,

We've done that until our pinky's have blisters... I set both the Porsche and Escalade at the old house 10 years ago and it was a no brainerd, but this time it's been a pain.

fpb11, I think we've found the problem, the new doors incorporate both a "rolling technology" and a common security feature. It's a very complex system. I believe I'll need a "repeater" to bridge my 2003 Homelink system with the new doors. I'll stop by the door people tomorrow and see what they have to say, earlier they thought that I might escape the repeater, or at least he said 80% of the time you won't need it. I hate being the other 20%... Thanks for your input.

Thanks for the reply... I've Googled Homelink and read and re-read the instructions, no joy yet.