Hilux2400

I had a similar problem 2 years back on my 996. One of the holding down screws had rusted through due to a coolant leak. Eventually, I replaced the tank and the bleeder assembly.

Mine is a UK 2003 C2 and mine does this if I hold the button down. Both windows roll. It allows the car to cool on a warm day before you get inside.

This is a very interesting thread. I have a 996 2003 C2 55k miles and also have a similar rattle. On a number of occasions I thought I had cured it and certainly some of the work that I have done has reduced suspension rattles and creaks from other areas. I have done front and rear droplinks, checked the upper strut bearings and sprayed the metalelastic suspension bushes with silicon lubricant. Definitely this has helped, but the slight persistent rattle is always there when the car is warm. I always notice it when coming home and going slowly on the gravelled driveway. What has foxed me is that there is nothing loose and the car always passes the annual test (MOT in UK). This is something to think about. I don't really mind the rattle, as long as I know what is causing it. I might be tempted to dig in and have a look.

Have you been through the window re-learning process? When you unlock the car with the remote and keep the button pressed down do both windows drop down until you release the remote button?

Check the wheels bolts are tight.

There's a great tutorial in the 996 Common Fixes category: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/217-door-microswitches/ It's worth being a contributing member to read these.

Are you sure it's not either the gauge or the temperature sender that's faulty? It's a good idea to get an infrared thermometer gun. Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R3.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.Xinfra+red+thermom.TRS0&_nkw=infrared+thermometer+gun&_sacat=0 This will enable you to check that the gauge is giving an accurate reading for coolant temperature.

You won't be disappointed.

I have no experience of caliper overhaul and re-making the threads. I have only heard about it done by specialists. Maybe someone will be along to give advice on this. However, if it is re-tapped you would need to get the muck out by blowing through and for that I think the pistons would have to come out and the caliper removed. It sounds to me as if the bleed nipple has broken in half. What you are turning is just the top half attached to the hexagon. The bottom with the taper is still in the hole. Good luck with it.

You need to find out where it has stripped or if it has broken. I assume the top bit with the hexagon is turning, so try pulling and turning to try and extract it. I assume that if it's not leaking fluid the bottom tapered part is stuck in and the top half has severed, this might mean that you have sufficient thread to get a new nipple screw to bite. I have had a similar experience with a different make of car resulting in an over tightened bleed screw. In my case the hexagonal head just broke off. You might be able to get the bottom bit out by using a reverse tap extractor. You feed this into the hole in the nipple and unscrew it. As the remaining bit screws out, if you are lucky, it will recut a thread in the calliper. However, beware not to apply too much torque to the screw extractor as if it breaks off in the hole you will be really messed up an have to buy a new calliper ( I have had this experience). I think you can send your calliper off for repairs of this type which involves drilling out the bleed nipple and tapping a new thread and taper seat. Since my experience with a cracked bleed nipple I now apply anti-seize to the top part of the thread before screwing home. Also, when unscrewing for the first time I always apply penetrating oil to the nipple and jolt the ring spanner with a rubber hammer, rather than applying pressure from the start. I find the jolt will normally crack it open for bleeding. I also use a vacuum bleeder as it avoids having to press the pedal to the floor through an abnormal travel distance where the M/C seals might get damaged on an unpolished surface.

I am using the L&N plug in my 9A1 motor (same motor as you) 2014 991S. Fits right. "Ridiculously expensive"? Really?? It's $25.75. You might think it's a bit expensive, but think of the benefit if it picks something up as an early warning. Then its cost will appear almost insignificant.

If there has been nothing in place for some time the internal threads in the bosses will be a bit messy. I would be tempted to run a thread chaser down the thread to clean it out. If you haven't got a tap of the right size just use a set screw with two long grooves cut in the thread with a three cornered file. Put some grease in the grooves and that will pick up the muck from within the threaded hole.

I have taken a photograph of the socket that matches locking wheel bolt lug. I know that one day I might lose this and it will be easier to get a match if I know what I'm chasing.

Correct, but take a lesson from another recent poster here that had a 2004 996 C4S which should have been a smaller and replaceable IMS bearing, so he went out and purchased everything he needed to do the IMS swap, including the LN bearing kit. But when he took the car apart, he found the oversized non serviceable design bearing in the engine, because the engine was a factory replacement (bore an engine number with "AT" in it, which stands for "Austauschmotor" or replacement engine in German), leaving him stuck with the expensive LN kit, and the car all apart: When you are looking at these cars, particularly with the intent of buying one specifically to do an IMS retrofit, you really need to understand what you are looking at or you can make an expensive mistake. In the case of an 05 car, if it still has the original engine in it, it could still go either way, and you need to pull it apart to find out what you are dealing with. One day I will know the answer to this question for my 2003/C2 car which had a replacement in 2005 sometime and now has the engine number: M96/03AT 66566759 Mine's only 1,201 units apart but slightly earlier.

I have never seen one, but by any chance is it the litronic headlight actuator arm?

It's easier without the exhaust box. In the photo' the alloy coil pack cover strip has been dropped below the coil packs and the back sparking plug and pack on this side have been removed.

It's easier without the exhaust box.

It's also a good idea to tape the plug socket spanner to the shaft of the socket driver. The reason being that if the ball catch on the shaft is weak when the shaft is withdrawn the socket can remain on the sparking plug and it's a long way down the hole and almost impossible to get out without undoing the sparking plug. Hand tighten the plug almost all the way to make sure you don't cross thread it. I have just completed this job for the first time (plugs and coil packs) and did it with the exhaust off the car. Two of the plugs are not that easy, but at least without the exhaust in place it is possible to get a good view of what going on. I would start with the plug back right (looking from the back) as I found it the most difficult. My coil packs had done about 25k miles. They were not showing any faults, but the back left had a case that was splitting. The 6 Beru coil packs and 6 Bosch plugs cost me £214 in total from EuroParts in UK.

I've just used Bosch in my 3600 Carrera C2. Plug Type FGR5KQEO. Torque setting on the box.

Thanks for your help. All back together now apart from the exhaust.

I am just going to put in Beru coil packs.

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success. Thanks JFP. Is there any electrical contact lubricant recommended for the spring connectors on the central electrode at the coil pack outlet where it connects to the HT shaft?

This is the mystery. My 996 had a replacement engine in late 2005 within its warranty period, but I have been unable to determine when. I think it had done about 25K by that time so the car has probably done 30k on the present engine. I assume that when the new engine was dropped in it came with new coil packs. The car also had a plug change at 45k before I bought it. The coil packs are coded 997.602.102.00 so I assume they date from the late 2005 engine change and have done 30K. Summarising, the plugs have done 10K and the coil packs 30K. I wouldn't normally change either the plugs or coil packs at this mileage. However, as it's much easier to do this job with the exhausts off I thought I'd replace both. I notice that the coil packs are splitting, although they show no fault codes.

Thanks for the reply. The anti seize is mentioned for the threads, but I notice on the NGK site that they say the plug threads already have a coating and anything further can result in over tightening and a false torque reading. I can see that the plugs I have taken out have anti seize on the threads and I have always used it before. Any advance on this view?

Carrera 996/C2/2003/3600cc/55k miles Please may I have your views on the following: My exhausts were starting to look a bit tired and breaking up at the bottom, so I have decided to replace them and in the process thought I would do the sparking plugs and coil packs. The following request for advice relates to these items. Coil Packs These are not showing any faults, but showing some casing cracks. I have decided to go with Beru as an OE replacement. Does the rubber shaft from the coil pack require lubrication and if so what should I use? Plugs The plugs look OK but I am changing them. They are Beru 14FGR-6kQU RS. Any recommendations for other makes? Do the plug threads require anti seize? Exhaust The exhaust was a pig to remove as four of the studs into the mount sheared. I will weld in new ones. Is it appropriate to turn around the long fixing bolts so that they go bolt upwards? It would make exhaust replacement easier. I realise that having the bolt downwards is better for security reasons as if the nut drops off the exhaust won't fall off. However, it is my intention to reverse the bolts and use a lock wire at the end to prevent the nut falling off. Thanks for reading and I look forward to your views. H