Schnell Gelb

" So maybe I'm paranoid but I have this vision of removing the cam cover screws and everything falls out of place and I'm left holding a cam in my oily hand. That shouldn't happen, right? " No, it is worse than that ! You must follow the correct procedure for TDC.Make sure you read the full InstructionsThat will minimize the risks. You must use the cam hold-down tools.Otherwise you can snap a camshaft. There is one tool that holds the ends of the 2 cams while the cam cover is still attached.. Once you have the cover off you can add the others. There are lots of photos of this procedure in previous discussions. I see JFP posted at the same time. Follow his suggestions , not mine.

1.Kroil - to find it search for Kano Labs : http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html Yes it is expensive but when you really need to avoid a broken bolt it is worth every penny.And if the bolt/stud breaks after using Kroil correctly(patience! and repetition), you are consoled by knowing there is nothing better - not even the home-brew transfluid+acetone concoctions. 2. To prevent the problem in future -fit a stainless steel stud kit .Yes studs, not bolts. Peculiarly ,Porsche failed to use the full depth of the threaded holes with their rust-prone bolts. Do some careful measuring,thread chasing and order the shortest stud that will work but still give full engagement of all the threads in the cylinder head. Use very high temp Loctite(2422 is better than 246) on the threads in the cylinder head and Wicking 290 on the nuts. I found the kit on Ebay.The studs have a small internal hex to drive them. And remember the chain tensioner chamber retains about 1 pint of oil - big mess if you remove it after you've drained "all" the oil :-). Keep us posted !

Beware the complete canvas+glass top replacement for a canvas+plastic window top is not plug & play. Suggest you Search that subject first. The glass top severely restricts rear 3/4 visibility. If you take care of a plastic top ,it will last many years. If you are in a climate where you may want to drop the top in cold weather then Glass is undoubtedly better. In Melbourne , Florida, not a problem. In Melbourne U.K. - yes , a problem. In Melbourne Oz - maybe?

Brilliant and helpful but we do not understand why this rapid cycling of the switch works. The 'new battery' fix works because the voltage was too low to activate the throttle 'jack' mechanism? The cycling may work because it is just cleaning the contacts in the ignition switch ? Either way, a new Ignition switch and battery is a cheaper & simpler solution than the MAF+DME+TB+ list given initially. But after battery replacement, don't forget the Initialization Procedure ! And get your radio code ready before you disconnect. Thanks for sharing

Yours is a TIptronic? Just do the usual vacuum tests on it, Remove, clean carefully, epoxy any cracks.Careful ,it may be brittle.

Consider using the Soldering Iron technique when removing the irbag screws T30. See my erlier Post for details

Thanks ,I'll try that right now ! Unfortunately it did not work. What I should have mentioned is that not only can't the screws be removed but they can not be tightened either. They just spin in both directions. So it must be the cross threading that is retaining them , not the rubber in the Steering Wheel. This is also the problem with the proposal to drill the screw heads off. The screws will just spin when the drill bit starts to 'bite'. I am reluctant to start excavating 2 large holes in the back of the Steering Wheel so that I can fit a small grinding wheel on a Dremel. JB Weld a T30 bit to the screws and then attach a slide hammer? Worse, I am unsure if removing the heads of the screws would free the airbag. The screws would still be retained on the plate(aka Retaining Frame- # 99334708801 ) by whatever makes them 'captive'. The temporary solution is to fit a separate horn+button .The power source would be a piggy-back "Add a Circuit on the Wiper fuse location t C6. The alternative is to use the original horn fuse B3 . I hope someone comes up with a method of removing those 2 pesky screws. The specific horn problem on my car has been discussed before. It works without the key in the ignition.It does not work with the engine running.Usually a broken wire behind the Airbag. Meanwhile I rigged a temporary MOM push switch and substituted a Nautilus horn in the original location.Much better sound.

2001 Boxster S, 3 spoke Steering Wheel. I'm trying to remove the Airbag to fix a Horn problem. To do the OBC mod you might also need to remove the wheel for some methods.So this issue may have a broader appeal? The removal Procedure seems simple - Bentley Sect 69-10 has details I slackened the two T30 x m6, 10,5 ( # 99907318302 ) screws at the back of the Steering Wheel.They were very stiff to start with ,then became easier.I did not use a soldering iron to soften the Loctite on these two T30 screws.Despite many rotations, the screws are still firmly attached to the plate/Retaining Frame with no indication of "letting go". According to Pelican and at least 1 video there is no need to totally remove either of the two screws - just slacken them. The 2 screws seem to be held captive in the Retaining Frame when they have disconnected from the Airbag assy. But both screws just spin endlessly and still seem firmly connected to the plate. I assume they are cross threaded in the large plate behind the Steering Wheel(the one held by 4 bolts). I have tried a wedge between the airbag and the Steering wheel while spinning the screw with a cordless drill. No result. The remaining option to extract the 2 screws is to drill off the screw heads. This is very difficult because both are recessed and obstructed by the wheel and instrument binnacle ! Does anyone have a less brutal method of removing the airbag with 2 cross-threaded screws ?It is too late to try softening the Loctite now ! I checked lots of other Posts on the airbag/Steering Wheel removal subject but did not find any other examples of this problem. Some have stripped the internal flutes of the Torx head but no cross-threading that I found. Thank you for any suggestions. BTW, this was an interesting related link that I seldom see quoted- great photos: file:///C:/Users/hp/AppData/Local/Temp/Temp1_obc_stalk.zip/obc_stalk.pdf

Thanks Guys. I had read conflicting views on reverse rotation. It makes sense to avoid it when you mention the Interference issue. I hope others doing the Cam Timing will note this because it is very tempting to turn the engine backwards just a little bit instead of locking the Crankshaft and adjusting the Camshaft Sprocket.

Ahsai, Thanks for commenting I agree with you about the Crankshaft rotation direction to correct the negative 8 degree Deviation issue. " you should be able to turn the crank and lock it at TDC. Then loosen the sprocket of the exhaust cam then turn it to the proper position using the timing tool? " But I read from Jake (in the links provided) that he usually sets the cams ,then does the fine adjustment to the crank position, then tightens the cam chain sprocket bolts. I think he has said it is O.K. to turn the crankshaft backwards for this purpose(?). But he always stresses a re-check after turning the engine over many times by hand. The link spacing between the dots on the sprockets was an anxiety because I don't have the 'gold' links as a reassurance . So now I have a photo of the final position before i replaced the cam cover (last time). The photo is a comfort in the middle of the night when you have an anxiety attack - was it 7 links or 8 ? There was just enough space to slip a Smart Phone in there to take the photo before the Cam Cover went back on. But I'll re-check anyway.Thank you.

There is a slightly related "while you are in there" task when fixing the horn problem (Search 'O' rings) If your ventilation ducts occasionally eject small pieces of foam, the flap in the air blend system is disintegrating. There are some repairs that allow the deteriorrating part to be fixed via the hole behind the Steering Wheel .This avoids the need to remove the entire dash ! Worth considering. http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/67109-small-foam-pieces-blowing-vents.html

Here is a Camshaft Deviation situation with a much tighter focus than normal.I have also included the best links I found to help others who find this through Search.This is a 5 chain engine.2001.Boxster S. The engine is just rebuilt by me. It runs wonderfully well with no Fault Codes, none. Great oil pressure.compression even on all cylinders. New chains,but original tensioners,new wear pads,new IMSB, IMS shaft pinned. But Bank 1 Deviation is negative 8 degrees. Bank 2 is much less than 1 degree negative. Spec is max 6 degrees +/-. Deviation is rock solid on both Banks throughout the rev. range(except for normal Variocam change). No Pending or Active Codes. I recently had Bank 1 Cam Cover and Cams off to rectify an obscure VarioCam issue (Thank you PorscheTech3!). I re-timed the Cam on Bank 1 using the Baum Tools. The tools are excellent but clearly(?) need a degree of finesse in use that I was unaware of. 8 degrees CRK per Durametric is only 4 degrees at the cam so it is impossible to do a visual check of the slots in the Camshafts to confirm if this is a static cam timing issue or a Camshaft system component failure. So I am resigned to re-do the timing but need reassurance on the precise technique to use before I R&R the Cam Cover again. Cam Timing Details are in the links at the end of this Post. Here is the tentative plan that I hope others will be able to correct : Follow Procedure in links below to lock the Cam with the Baum Tools close to TDC. To get perfect Cam timing, I'll need to very slowly rotate the Crankshaft forward toward TDC. Only when the tools fit perfectly will I lock the Baum Cam Timing tool. Then I'll try to insert the TDC Crankshaft Locking Pin. Knowing that Bank 1 is excessively retarded 4 degrees(cam), I should expect that the Crankshaft Locking Pin will not slide in easily when the Cams are perfectly timed. At this stage I should loosen all the Camshaft Sprocket bolts. But not remove the (old) Chain Tensioner - right ? Then the Crankshaft should need rotating 'forward' 8 degrees until the Crankshaft Locking Pin slides in easily.Then tighten the Camshaft Sprocket bolts. Then rotate many times and re-check. The Bank 1 Timing Chain Tensioner is still very powerful and seems as 'strong' as Bank 2. When I refitted Bank 1 Tensioner last time, it required serious muscle to force it upward while delicately engaging the threads. So I assume it is functioning adequately and is not the cause of the out-of-range Camshaft Deviation .I am assuming it is original(90,000 miles). What other components should be checked ? I did check the Camshaft Position Sensor for correct fitment and the Reluctor ring for damage during the VarioCam repair. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/594122-how-to-set-cam-timing-on-996-a.html see Post #7 http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner/Gp1800.pdf Good dwg and description of mechanism and parts. Please add your best links if you have any in your replies so that this may help others with the Deviation issue? And thanks in advance for any suggestions and corrections.

Suggest you postpone a complete diagnosis until you have removed the cam covers. Then look for some causes there.

It is a Brown wire problem probably Try this? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/639382-horn-works-only-ignition-off.html " Problem solved. It turns out the ground wire for the horn was broken inside the insulation about 1/2 inch from where the wire plugs onto the horn ring. My mechanic said that the wire comes off of the connector and then makes a 90 degree bend as it goes through the steering wheel. The wire was broken at this bend. A little soldering and the problem is fixed "

Good detective work Dave ! If you do decide to remove the steering wheel to investigate - there is an upgrade to the 4 rubber bushings that support the wheel and prevent the horn from sounding intermittently.It uses 4 ,size 31 'O' rings. There is a diy for this on You Tube. Of course you would need to remove the negative cable from the battery. On my car that does not make the alarm go off. It may be a good idea to connect a 'saver' 9v battery to the power socket ? You may also find this useful- at your own risk !!

Have you tried squirting electrical Contact Cleaner on the switch? Then operate the E-Brake vigorously many times to spread the cleaner fluid.. It may just be sticky ? The Parking Brake Warning Light will 'tell' you if you have fixed it. If not ,try removing the Top relay ,clean the pins ,tap it (loose contacts inside?) and replace: file:///C:/Users/hp/AppData/Local/Temp/micro_switch_troubleshooting.pdf Test the 2 fuses with a DMM - not just visually. D3 = motor B6=Module/relay While you are probably waiting for the upgraded Parking Brake microswitch (ends in 02, not 01 & is black not white!) to arrive from Sunset Porsche : Be aware that details of the top transmission system changed between the early/late Boxster.The later Boxsters are a bit easier. 1.Check the bolts on the push rods for tightness .The 2-piece arms have serrated mating surfaces. If they slip because the bolt is loose, you will destroy the serrations and have great difficulty keeping the two pieces in the correct adjustment. 2. Measure the height/angle of the boomerang on the gearbox from any convenient reference point and compare to the opposite side.They should be exactly (+/- 1/8th") the same. They can be adjusted using a very low torque+slow speed setting on a cordless drill(See Pelican DIY) You can make your own driver to adjust the 'timing' of the gearbox. It is 4mm square. Note the "timing marks on the gearbox case. Measure the distance from the ball for the cam cover to a reference point with the top fully closed and fully open. If you fail to do this accurately with many different measurements/refences, you will destroy the top/mechanism/both when you operate it after Item 3. below. The motor is powerful enough to tear fabric,bust bolts and rails with ease. See Pelican diy for gory & expensive details. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/BODY_Convertible_Top_Gear_Replacement/BODY_Convertible_Top_Gear_Replacement.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair.htm Mike Focke has a useful PDF if you consider installing a new glass top on an older Boxster: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97 https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages/clamshell-adjustment It also contains 1 critical dimension buried in an electrical section- 7-3/4" from the clamshell ball to the top of the seal- see "Part 111"of his pdf on ,Page 39. 3. Consider dismantling and greasing the 2 gearboxes.You will likely find a woeful lack of grease inside. BUT only dismantle one side at a time . Photograph ,mark and reference every little part. There are invisible shim washers, concealed alignment points and all manner of potential pitfalls. If you fail to do this, you may get very little help from the Internet or the FSM.You'll need to do this if the large ,white plastic gear has broken.Here is a silly & incomplete video showing how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hBBhsf5xeM The second of the 2 pelican diy's linked above is much more useful If you need a troubleshooting guide- find Posts by Maurice (1schoir)- he seems to be the unchallenged champion of the electrical part of this system. Yes, the mechanism can be converted to entirely manual or a manual top and power clamshell.If you go all manual out of frustration with the complxity of the mechanism ,Search for the "Push Latch" modification to hold the clamshell down.One of the experts is Woody - Itsnotanova. Yes, there is a hack to bypass the 'Parking Brake must be on 1 click' obstacle and the you must not be driving more than walking pace limit. It involves bending pin 15 and/or 18 on the double relay that controls the top. There is also a Youtube tutorial for using 2 jumpers in an Emergency to get the top up .It has a useful explanation of some of the many pins on the relay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eWY4_fSZT4 When you are testing the top mechanism and are trying to stop the top immediately a problem occurs - stand outside the car and operate the top buttons from the passenger side using a 2ft long hollow rod(or similar). This will allow you to watch the mechanism carefully for twisting/straining. Do not operate from the driver's seat if you expect problems- my the time you react to the bang, it will be too late. When you are reattaching the red or white plastic cups to the ball that controls the top, it is much easier to do with the top in the down position and the clamshell up. You can look down at the ball from above. I used a wide,flat pry bar to pop the cups on. Be careful where you brace the prybar.Do not inadvertently crush the grooves in the long channel for the clamshell arm/slider.

While you are in there - check for deteriorated fittings and valves. Some of these cause the EVAP codes .

Listen carefully as close as you can get to each rear wheel. Which is worse? With the car up on a lift, use a listening device - preferably a Steelman Engine Ear to listen to the worst side. Move all along the crankcase from close to the crankshaft all the way to the Camshaft cover. Do this for each cylinder on that Bank.Which is worst and where on that cylinder is the noise the worst ? Listn ,not just for volume but for additional little extra rattles ,thuds,and knocking .Be evry methodical.Make notes on a diagram showing each cylinder. This way we can give you a better diagnosis. Consider getting a UOA from Blackstone,Caterpillar or alternatives. It may be a noise you can just live with for many thousands of miles with good lubrication and careful monitoring ,so don't despair. But do gather great data !

The hairdryer+ liquid soap technique works. Try laying on a blanket over the trunk with the clamshell jammed vertical.

Couple of things to consider 1. Oxygen sensors are not expensive and easy to replace - do ll 4. 2. This makes subsequent diagnosis easier because it eliminates the O2 sensors - but not their wiring, Check the plugs, tubes+sels and coil packs at the same time ?

To diagnose, rather than keyboard-speculate we need Durametric/scanner info. The easy ,first observation would be to watch a graph of the Pre and Post cat O2 sensors.They may show poor performance but this can be due to vacuum leaks. I mention this so you do not needlessly fit 4 new O2 sensors.

Agreed. Just waiting on the Part. On another Forum they are testing a hack for the SAI system.Edit - mixed results. http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/66560-any-interest-sai-delete-circuit-2.html#post537641 I battled long and hard with SAI issues. I did lots of research and checked/upgraded lots of parts. My conclusion was that: first you need to do a thorough diagnosis.That is awful because it is so tedious but do it anyway because if you miss one leak all your work is wasted. Second , do everything because access is so awful - how many times do you want to remove the alternator and maybe the Intake manifold? Third, upgrade to silicone and brass.The cost is trivial and it will never fail. Invest in a smoke machine or at least a Mighty Vac to test your work. Become a Master at using both otherwise you will be down the same rabbit hole endlessly. Rebuild the SAI pump Clean out the ports for the SAI system in the cylinder head.If they are plugged with carbon, no amount of other work and expense will be effective. If the drive cycle fails, the "technique" of running the engine at 2700 rpm for several minutes seems to work for some. After all this and more - it showed Ready and passed the Ca Smog Test.

SAI Tests. I tested the entire system with a Vacuum pump+ gauge .Made some test leads for the electric change over valve. Removed the Alternator and the flex ducts between the Intake manifolds for better access. Finally found the source of the leak - same as Ahsai's old problem - the Vacuum Reservoir. To get a test vacuum hose fitted to the reservoir requires the dexterity of a keyboard player with disposable flesh on his hands. I whine because you must have a 101% perfect connection when testing the Reservoir. You do not want a false negative because you had a leaky hose connection ! Extract it from the space created by removing the Alternator - but use a magnetic screwdriver and pick up to avoid loosing the screw on the side of the Vac Reservoir. The definitive test in my case was to connect the suspect Reservoir to a source of slightly compressed air, invert the reservoir and partially fill the hollow base with water. Bubbles ! Lots of bubbles. From the seam where the base was 'glued' in. I hope this helps others confirm they have found not just one but all the vac leaks ! Tempting to save some time by just filling it with epoxy . But I'll leave that experiment to others. In theory you slather epoxy on, connect to vacuum and it sucks the epoxy into the cracks- maybe. For less than $30 ,I'll get a new one. The interesting question is why didn't the Pre-cat O2 sensors show a failing SAI system per Ahsai's test above? At that stage I only had "Not Ready". There was no CEL,no codes. Once the codes popped up that indicated that the vac reservoir leak had deteriorated to the point where it totally failed to operate. Before then it was partially operating with a small amount of vacuum that immediately dissipated when another vacuum consumer was operated? Speculation but likely.

Thank you for Posting all the details of this fix. Particularly mentioning that the offending seat belt must have the buckle fastened. I found that the latest Durametric update fixed other diagnostic bugs also.