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roadsterdoc

Rear spoiler instructions for bleeding hydraulics

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Wow.....this is an old thread.....but I know it's ongoing problem for those still using the OE wing....so I'm pulling it from archives, rather than creating (yet another) spoiler-error thread.

Luckily I have somehow been able to avoid the problem till now......but she did stop working the other day.

Any advice would be welcome.....if I'm unable to easily rectify Iwill probably make the move to a fixed wing.

Micro switches test out OK.

No evidence of any fluid leak anywhere.

Right now the wing is not deploying at all.

The pump sounds like it is functioning when dash switch is engaged.....(click..rrr..click..rr..click..rr.....).

But when she sences that the wing has not made it up, I get the error.

Is bleeding off the system my next step?......if I have lost fluid & pressure I'm surprised I do not see a leak.

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Hi,

Richard H's previous post was on my behalf as I was having a problem with my spoiler and was about to try to bleed the system. My problem was different to the one you describe. My spoiler would go up fine but when it was coming down one side would stick. I had no leaks either.

I strip my rams and motor off the car and tinkered with it. I started to go down the route of bleeding it but as soon as I looked at topping up the ram it was obvious there was plenty of fluid in there. Basically I ended up lubing the ram as best I could with some CHF and good old WD40. It has been fine since!

It is quite easy to take it off the car - I could do it in 30mins now I reckon. Before shelling out for a fixed wing it is probably worth a Saturday morning to see if there is any life in it.

BTW - I used the battery of my motorcycle when I was playing with it off the car. It needs something that can dish out quite a few amps to get the pump working.

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I have it all apart right now......& I have had it apart several times recently when I added 2nd intake scoop and CF air box.

Just didn't seem to make alot of sence to start the bleed process when there's no evidence of leakage...so thought I'd throw it out for other ideas.

Seems likely that something's up with the hydralic pump since neither ram comes to life....(though the pump sounds like it's wkg hard).

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Well, it sounds like you have nothing to loose by checking to see if there is fluid in there [maybe all the recent removals has done something?] .I'd start by check the rams. Also, a new pump must be much cheaper than a fixed wing!!!!

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Well, it sounds like you have nothing to loose by checking to see if there is fluid in there [maybe all the recent removals has done something?] .I'd start by check the rams. Also, a new pump must be much cheaper than a fixed wing!!!!

The pump is over $800 MSRP and if you need to two hydraulic rams - they are over $400 each -- So, I guess that would depend on the fixed wing you buy.

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Loren, are there instructions for adding oil ? My spoiler moves but gives the error message every time it extends. One hydraulic ram has a film of oil on the shaft.

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I've read these instructions several times and they don't make sense. I think where they say to TIGHTEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves, it should be translated to LOOSEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves. It seems that you would have to loosen the fittings to bleed out the air bubbles. (???)

Edited by ebaker

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Has anyone repaired a RAM? My drivers side is showing signs of leaking and now the wing doesn't go up level. I could bleed it but it will just leak out again. Seems like a few o-rings might make it as good as new. New ones appear expensive and getting one from a recycler might end up with the same problem shortly.

BTW, i was having a lot of spoiler errors lights but everything was working. I took the switches off and sprayed on some contact cleaner while exercising them for a bit and I haven't had an error since.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

01 996TT

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hey,

i am getting into the conversation a little late....sorry but i have two leaky rams and i would like to rebuild but from what i am reading i am not too sure on the approach. can someone confirm the best way too fix. i am getting codes on the down but not going up all the way anymore.

thanks

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I've been following this problem here and on 6speed and nobody was able to replace the seals because they cannot purchase them separately and they are unique. (I never dismantle one myself) Some people on 6speed used thicker oil to fix their leaks...Did it last ? We don't know. I saw one thread on 6speed were the guy completely dismantle both rams and pump to found out that he was not able to replace any internal parts... So far the only solution, if your keeping the movable spoiler, keep an eye on Ebay for a used mechanism. There was one, a couple of months ago, who went for less than $200.00. Having two complete system help to build a good one... If you got any success in your attempt to fix the problem please do not hesitate to share your findings. Thanks, J.P.

post-29683-127050611027_thumb.jpg post-29683-127050617616_thumb.jpg post-29683-127050616055_thumb.jpg post-29683-127050630569_thumb.jpg

Edited by jpflip

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here is my problem I went from a stock wing to a gt2 replica wing then back to my stock wing on my 2002 Turbo, now the fan works, the 3rd brake light works, the trunk switch works, but when I drive over 75 mph/hit the manual up and down button my wing is still down.

do i have to reset something on the car?

oh yeah the fault light is not on.

LMK

Thanks,

Phil

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If you do not feel comfortable doing this procedure please take your car to a shop that has experience doing this. This is straight from the factory manual. Bleeding the spoiler pump unit post-1-1178510134_thumb.png 1. Pulling out pump Pull hydraulic cylinder 2 out to the dimension Y = 35 +2 mm . To do this, connect 12 V to the pump. Observe polarisation arrangement A. 2. Bleeding short hydraulic line Slowly tighten short hydraulic line 4 until the hydraulic cylinder 2 moves. If the hydraulic cylinder has reached the lower mechanical stop inset X, push back onto the stop if necessary, hydraulic lines must be laid parallel to each other inset Z. Tighten banjo bolt 3. Tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.) 3. Bleeding long hydraulic line Slowly tighten long hydraulic line 5 until the hydraulic cylinder 2 moves. If the hydraulic cylinder has reached the lower mechanical stop inset X, push back onto the stop if necessary, hydraulic lines inset Z must be laid parallel to each other. Tighten banjo bolt 3. Tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.) Note: Use only Pentosin CHF 11 S (or it's replacement).

hi loren, is it me or does this not make sense to you as well? how do i really bleed any air out of one or both of these cylinders...after filling the cylinder to the top and reinserting the banjo bolt and tightening and catching/blotting the overflow, there is still air? and that side lags behind when raising, pretty severely...what is my next step? many thanks, kevin

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Perhaps you have air because there is a leak?

If the seals are not tight lubricated then air can get in. Double check the seals and then try it again.

In a few rare cases I think the plunger (and or cylinder) is just plain worn out. Then you either replace them or upgrade to a fixed spoiler like the GT2.

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yes, checked for leaks,there was weeping at the bottom of both cylinders, i replaced the copper washers, filled and tightened, but how do you bleed each line by tightening the line and THEN tighten banjo...isn't tightening the line in fact tightening the banjo? , cheers, kevin

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yes, checked for leaks,there was weeping at the bottom of both cylinders, i replaced the copper washers, filled and tightened, but how do you bleed each line by tightening the line and THEN tighten banjo...isn't tightening the line in fact tightening the banjo? , cheers, kevin

Is there any update to this? To bleed the system, you simply add 5mL to each ram, then tighten the banjo? Do you need to remove the rams from the car?

I have a leak coming from my drivers side ram, from the banjo on the bottom. It seems like the copper washers are bad. Does anybody know where I can get those washers?

Thanks,

Connor

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I have he same issue, driver side ram leaks. We added the 5ml of oil. It went ok for 2 days and then did not retract anymore. Apparently Porsche upgraded/redesigned the system since it was first built and recommends to replace the whole system. Another Porsche mechanic confirmed that statement. The system is easy to exchange ( DIY job), the issue is that the set costs 1200 EUR :(.

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I've yet to figure out how to add fluid to the ram. I have removed the leaky ram but when I place it upside down to fill it as per the service manual I'm lucky to get anywhere close to 1ml, let alone the 5 specified. I used a syringe but no fluid goes into the ram (it is fully retracted, as if when it was on the deck lid the spoiler would be down). Please help. Secondly, after this, do I need to bleed the entire system? Thanks in advance.

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The retracted rams only take about 1 cc at most. I just rebuilt my leaking ram. Requires disassembly of ram and removing the brass tube. Inside the brass tube there are two small metric orings that have to be replaced. This was not an easy fix as the brass tube has to be cut and welded (silver soldered) back together. Seals $2.00. welding $75. Total- $77.00.

Most of the fluid goes in the retracted main pump.

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I know it has been awhile since you posted this jpflip "Just a note for people with spoiler hydraulic problems. Just found on the net a guy in Florida that fix the hydraulic unit. If anyone ever used them please post your result...http://cabriolethydr...-hydraulics.php" but I just received my actuator assembly back from that company. Had it in for a few days and no issues yet. I will post back with long term results but it comes with a three year warranty and the customer service aspect of the business was outstanding. I spoke to them three or four times before electing to send my parts to them. They do not just "rebuild" the system, they upgrade the entire unit to ensure whatever original design flaws exist are addressed properly. If anyone is thinking of going with this company I recommend it. The whole thing cost me $700.00 plus shipping and again, 3 year warranty.

  • Upvote 1

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I know it has been awhile since you posted this jpflip "Just a note for people with spoiler hydraulic problems. Just found on the net a guy in Florida that fix the hydraulic unit. If anyone ever used them please post your result...http://cabriolethydr...-hydraulics.php" but I just received my actuator assembly back from that company. Had it in for a few days and no issues yet. I will post back with long term results but it comes with a three year warranty and the customer service aspect of the business was outstanding. I spoke to them three or four times before electing to send my parts to them. They do not just "rebuild" the system, they upgrade the entire unit to ensure whatever original design flaws exist are addressed properly. If anyone is thinking of going with this company I recommend it. The whole thing cost me $700.00 plus shipping and again, 3 year warranty.

This is a good news!!!! I am really happy to see someone satisfied with this company. In fact a three years warranty is a good thing. Thanks a lot for being the "first" and for sharing your experience with this company in Florida.

Edited by jpflip

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