Trying to remove 996 alternator but it's stuck

[Silver_TT]

Got to the alternator this evening pretty quickly en route to switching out the voltage regulator in the alternator. On the left side of the alternator where a single bolt holds it in, I can get some play moving the alternator up/down....Only problem is the right side of the alternator, the side with the screw that goes throught the pulley, (see red circled area in attached pic) won't budge. I think it's just pinched on there real tight after the last 10 years, as that screw goes through the pulley and the flange and screws in near the back of the alternator. I tried giving it some taps with the hammer but it's at an ackward angle and I'm not getting much traction. The thing is either stuck or I need to start hitting the gym more often, one of the two.

Anything obvious I'm missing with respect getting the alternator in/out? It's right at the front of the motor--shouldn't be this hard. I'm hoping it's not this hard getting it back in there too once I'm finished with the alternator repair.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or comments.

Edited July 18, 2012 by ferrugia

[Loren]

Have a look at this post and tips...

[Silver_TT]

Thanks for the response, Loren. I did previously see that support topic post regarding your DIY. It looks like some other people have had similar issues. Unfortunately, in my case, the alternator is "stuck" on the right-hand side and so I'm not really able to pry it out of there.

If anyone has any brilliant ideas I'm all ears -- else I will try to use a crowbar tonight and use more force (while trying not to damage the alternator/fins). I might spray some WD-40 on that right side once it's out to make it easier to get back in after I replace the voltage regulator.

Good times, good times.....

[JFP in PA]

There is a small threaded bushing in the rear mounting flange of the alternator that moves slightly forward when the bolt is tightened, clamping down on the bracket. If you thread a bolt into that side (item #7 in Loren's DIY), leaving it loose, and then tap the bolt with a dead blow hammer, the bushing will release the mount and the alternator can be removed (after removing the bolt). You can see the bushing in this photo on the rear "ear" of the alternator, near the Bosch box:

Edited July 18, 2012 by JFP in PA

[Silver_TT]

Thanks JFP, you were right (of course).

For people doing this in the future: Follow the instructions in Loren's DIY very carefully (don't be dense like me). The instructions explicitly say in step 7, "Undo right fastening screw (with deflection roller) by three turns. A gentle tap on the fastening screw loosens the threaded bushing in the generator arm (use aluminum mandrel)."

I made the mistake of completely unscrewing and taking out the long bolt right off the bat -- Wrong! Should have followed instructions. It makes a lot more sense now that I understand how the bushing pulls forward in the rear flange. Trying to get the bolt back in proved to be an arduous task. Aligning the alternator was quite difficult. Be very careful not to strip the bolt. Lots of swear words may have been spoken in my garage last night :)

The irony of this DIY was that getting into the engine and accessing the alternator was trivial. It only took under 10 minutes if you don't count my trip to the hardware store to get a set that contained 14mm, 15mm, and 24mm sockets. Conceptually, replacing the voltage regulator is very, very easy. However, in practice, in my case anyway, getting the alternator actually out to do the replacement once I got to it was a major PITA. I can tell that getting it back in tonight is going to be a lot of fun too.

Thanks again JFP for your guidance in helping me with this. Next round of beers is on me :cheers:

Edited July 19, 2012 by ferrugia

[Andrew911]

Apologies for resurrecting a dead thread, but I am too am stuck on the alternator bushing part.

 

When it's stated the bushing moved forward, does that mean towards the front of the car?  How do you know when the bushing has moved far enough?  Will it be flush with the alternator?

 

Reading the DIYs I knew I was in for a struggle.  Each night this week I soaked the bushing in PBlaster.  After hammering on it for a couple hours and applying more PBlaster, I'm not sure it's budged at all.  With the bolts removed, both the left and right sides rotate clockwise a bit, but don't drop or otherwise move. 

 

Any further suggestions or do I just keep at it?

[DBJoe996]

I would say you are going to have to keep at it.  Do exactly what the instructions say to do...back the long bolt out 3 turns and whack the bolt head hard.  Harder than you think.  The rear bushing has to move in order to create the space needed to remove the alternator.  I put a towel on the car to protect it and used a brass boat prop shaft.  Lined it up on the bolt head with the end of the prop shaft outside the engine bay and hit it with a sledge hammer.  Don't overdue it because you can break the rear mount.  It takes just the right amount.

[Andrew911]

Thanks Joe.  A couple hours with a 4lb dead blow hammer and a two foot piece of metal and it still hasn't budged.  

 

What's my tip off when it actually has moved though?  Will the bushing sit flush with the alternator?

[JFP in PA]

15 minutes ago, Andrew911 said:

Thanks Joe.  A couple hours with a 4lb dead blow hammer and a two foot piece of metal and it still hasn't budged.  

 

What's my tip off when it actually has moved though?  Will the bushing sit flush with the alternator?

 

It takes more force than you might expect; the bushing has to move back or the alternator will not come out.

 

Good luck.

[DBJoe996]

The bushing only needs to move enough that you can rotate the alternator up and out.  It does not have to be pushed all the way into the rear mount arm.  It really only has to move enough that you  can lift up the right side of the alternator easily.  Once you have the alternator out you will see how it all works.  With the left bolt out, how easily can you rotate the alternator up?  Or can you not rotate it at all?

Edited May 12, 2019 by DBJoe996

[DBJoe996]

Are you sure you have not already moved it enough for the alternator right side to come up? Pull right side bolt all the way out and see if you can lift the right side up and out.  It might be a little bit of a struggle but if it moves up you can get it out.  I remember I had to go back and forth a few times, bolt in and whack, bolt out and try to lift, bolt back in and whack even harder, bolt out and test lift again.

[Andrew911]

On 5/12/2019 at 8:15 AM, DBJoe996 said:

Are you sure you have not already moved it enough for the alternator right side to come up? Pull right side bolt all the way out and see if you can lift the right side up and out.  It might be a little bit of a struggle but if it moves up you can get it out.  I remember I had to go back and forth a few times, bolt in and whack, bolt out and try to lift, bolt back in and whack even harder, bolt out and test lift again.

 

This has been my hope for a while, but I don't think so.  I have lifted on the bolt and it doesn't budge a fraction of a millimeter.  I can feel the bushing up tight against the bracket with no apparent gap of any kind...I can't fit a fingernail between it.

 

If I pull out the left bolt I can rotate the alternator clockwise some so it appears to be loose, but just still attached via the bushing (?).  Counter-clockwise is no go.

[DBJoe996]

In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out.  Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm.  You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right.  Be very careful of the oil filler tube.  It can crack easily.

[Andrew911]

On 5/14/2019 at 7:20 AM, DBJoe996 said:

In total desperation, you may have to pry the alternator out.  Rotate it as far as possible clockwise, remove the long bolt and pulley, and try to jam a thick screwdriver or small pry bar underneath the alternator rear mount arm.  You might have to be creative with a block or piece of wood to get the leverage right.  Be very careful of the oil filler tube.  It can crack easily.

 

Thanks again Joe.  I actually did end up using a block of wood to dislodge it.  Didn't break anything on the alternator and surprisingly the plastic connector for the AOS is still intact (for now....ha!)  Getting it back in may be another nightmare.

 

Funny you mention the oil filler tube.  That is exactly why I'm removing the alternator.  The tube cracked when I removed the airbox to replace the engine mounts.  I'm currently stuck trying to get it back in.  I used oil on the new o-ring and fill tube, but it doesn't want to go back in easily.  Any tip on getting more leverage?  I can only get my left hand in there.

Edited May 15, 2019 by Andrew911

[DBJoe996]

I take it you got the alternator out.  Good job!  When I replaced my oil filler tube, it seemed to go right in.  A bit of a struggle to push it down snug, but I had no difficultly lining it up and pushing straight down on it.  Took a picture right before I put the bolts back in.   Yes, all left handed work.  Ugh....

 

Edited May 15, 2019 by DBJoe996

[Andrew911]

Oh, that's weird.  My reply got truncated somehow and a link for the AO S keyword got added.

 

I wrote:

 

"Thanks again Joe.  I actually did end up using a block of wood to dislodge it.  Didn't break anything on the alternator and surprisingly the plastic connector for the AO S is still intact (for now....ha!)  Getting it back in may be another nightmare."

 

I know appearances can be deceiving but it looks like you have a lot more space to work.  In my car I swear that metal hard line butts right up against the rear bolt.  Glad to see I'm doing things right though and just need to struggle with it a bit more.

 

BTW, did you get the revised filler tube?  If so, how has it held up?

Edited May 15, 2019 by Andrew911

[DBJoe996]

Yes, got the latest and greatest, and it is holding up very well.  Good to hear you got in there.

[Stringy]

I too had a very difficult time in getting my alternator out.

I must have hit it hundreds of times but the steel insert didn't seem to move - I even resorted to drastic action, see pic.

 

I didn't read the message above that said it only has to be moved so it can be rotated up and out.

Anyway, eventually I found I could pry the alternator up free of the bushing.

At one point when I was prying, I pushed the alternator up and causes a short hiss - sounded like air?

No water dripping, so time will tell if I've damaged anything.

Once out, I tested the windings and diodes and concluded the regulator - which is was. $18 from the bay.

p.s. I also checked for poor connection of the battery leads - I used a PAT tester (Portable appliance tester), which has a 25A earth continuity function (at low test voltage), this showed a fraction of an ohm on all battery + and ground connections.

Hope this helps.

[JFP in PA]

The correct method to test the battery primary leads is by voltage drop, it should be no more than 0.5V.

[DBJoe996]

1 hour ago, Stringy said:

I too had a very difficult time in getting my alternator out.

I must have hit it hundreds of times but the steel insert didn't seem to move - I even resorted to drastic action, see pic.

 

I didn't read the message above that said it only has to be moved so it can be rotated up and out.

Anyway, eventually I found I could pry the alternator up free of the bushing.

At one point when I was prying, I pushed the alternator up and causes a short hiss - sounded like air?

No water dripping, so time will tell if I've damaged anything.

Once out, I tested the windings and diodes and concluded the regulator - which is was. $18 from the bay.

p.s. I also checked for poor connection of the battery leads - I used a PAT tester (Portable appliance tester), which has a 25A earth continuity function (at low test voltage), this showed a fraction of an ohm on all battery + and ground connections.

Hope this helps.

Better check the AOS coolant hose just to the right of the oil filler tube.  That plastic hose connector always breaks. With the engine off not much coolant will  leak.  With the engine running it will look like a geyser spraying coolant everywhere.

Edited June 24, 2020 by DBJoe996

[realityagent]

Sorry to unzombie but might be helpful, as I've not seen this mentioned, and it worked for me

I tried most of the above, PB blaster 3 times over 3 days, whacking the bejeebus out of it with many different hammers for 10 mins at a time, etc - would not move. Prying, no go.

I reset the bolt to 3 turns out, hit it for 10s with an air hammer with pointed chisel bit on the bolt end, and pop. 

(Edit: I guess Steven's post kind of touches on it 🙂 but I just used a cheapo air hammer from local Harbor Freight equivalent)

 

Mangled the 15mm bolt head a bit but it was already getting a bit janky from various whacking attempts. 900 385 092 01 should be the replacement, if needed - it's definitely an M10-145 bolt anyways, based on caliper measurements. #17 on diagram

 

Edited April 27, 2022 by realityagent

[RomanBluejay]

Always tremendous help to read from the past experiences of others. That said, sharing a few more experiences and comments that may help those trying to remove and REINSTALL their alternator. 

 

FIRST - be sure to have your battery checked prior to starting. A lot can be determined by having a battery place test your charging system prior to you banging your knuckles with the alternator. The battery would be the easiest solution if you are lucky enough to find that you have a bad cell etc. 

 

My vehicle was charging just fine at 14v for the initial stages of a drive. Once the car warmed up it starting running a bit rough and bouncing above and below 12v and kicked on the battery light and gave the battery/generator warning. I determined from other posts that this sounded like a voltage regulator issue and proceeded. 

 

SECOND,  in relation to the pesky bushing on the lower right/ back side of the alternator. In my case it took considerable “direct” persuasion to get it to retract even a little bit even after being marinated in Kroil overnight.  Many people on here have been blessed with a bushing sent from heaven. Mine apparently just got off a corroded boat from the River Styx. Tamping on the bolt that goes through the pulley after unscrewing it a few turns (as has been mentioned) had zero effect. I eventually used a 3 foot long 3/8ths inch steel rod that fit down the bolt channel to allow me to reach the bushing while being able to hammer the opposite end while outside the engine bay. A friend of mine made sure that the rod stayed positioned on the face of the bushing and out of the opening so as not to bungle the threads. Despite considerable effort we were only able to get that infernal bushing to move just enough to slip the alternator off its mooring and out of the car. 
 

For reinstall, no one has given any advice that I could find other than “reverse the steps”, so here goes. First, after getting your alternator out (or before installing your new one) be sure that the aforementioned bushing is retracted completely flush or even below flush into its den of iniquity. How you do this is up to you but in my case involved direct hammering while proclaiming “Now who’s the boss!” Once the bushing is out of the way the challenge to installation is you have no leverage to get the back side of the alternator up and lined up for the bolt that goes through the pulley. To solve for this I used a small piece of rebar and put it under the alternator. This allowed me to lever the back of the alternator into place (at the same time as the front right) which then gave enough clearance for the lower left bolt to have the alignment necessary to move far enough right and go into place. Once the lower left bolt was loosely screwed in, that more or less held the alternator in a position that was at least situated on the front and back side of where the right side bolt needed to go and I just needed to use the rebar to make fine-tuned adjustments for the right side bolt to line up. 
 

One additional comment I never saw anywhere- when you remove the air box there are a couple plastic  “posts” that extend down off the box itself that provide additional stability beyond the bolt you remove just inside the engine bay and the clamps holding the hoses. Those posts are nearest you in the engine bay and rest in little rubber bushings. In my case, one of the bushings stuck to the box when it came out and one did not. The wayward bushing took a Plinko joy ride into the engine bay and had to be hunted down. Consider yourself notified. 

Overall, this project would have required much less time and effort had the bushing not been such a bugger. Having an extra set of hands is helpful as long as whoever is helping you is not offended by profanity when the bushing laughs in your face and refuses to move. Good luck all!

Edited September 5, 2023 by RomanBluejay
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