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Key won't turn from off position without a fight?


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Have read posts and DIY for sticking ignition. On my 01 C4 the key periodically gets stuck in the off position. With a lot of jiggling (beyond the ordinary slight steering wheel jiggle that helps with the locks) and retries it works fine once you unstick it but I see the potential for some very bad times with this. No other problem with it. How do I tell if I can get away with the cheap 10-15 dollar fix versus the whole steering lock assembly for $187 ish. Many thanks, in advance. This forum is an awesome resource.

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spend $12 and 1 hour to find out.

Did mine recently and as stated above $11 and about 30 minutes. You don't need to remove the side vent to get the crossing duct off. Saves having to take off the headlight switch. If it doesn't work the do the whole housing - that will take longer

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I had a problem with the ignition switch on my "84"... I flooded the ignition switch with a contact cleaner. I imagine you could use WD40 as well,

I inserted the red dispenser tube as far down into the switch as I could get, then flooded the switch. I would suggest putting a towel under the dash

so the excess material doesn't drip out on your carpet. After that I never had a problem with the switch again. In your case it sounds like there's a mechanical problem, but I don't think washing out the dirt in the ignition switch can hurt anything.

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  • 1 month later...

It sounds like your is the mechanical failure instead of electrical failure. In this case you will likely need the whole steering lock.

I believe I may also have mechanical failure of the steering lock, but I wouldn't mind another opinion.

I've read the DIY articles about switch replacement, and lock replacement, and their support articles, but none of them seemed like quite the right place for a diagnosis, nor was I able to find detailed symptoms of "the mechanical failure"..

My 02 Carrera 2 has 54000 miles, not been driven much the past couple of years. Last week the ignition switch started operating differently from before.

The car can still be started, but there seem to be some new key detent positions.

Taking the positions 0,1,2 from the user manual as if they were an analog scale:

When starting the car in Position 2, the key returns to a new position 1.2, which functions just like 1. It can be moved back to Position 1.

When turning the ignition off, the key wants to stop in new position 0.5, and the ignition is off there. If I turn it to position 0, I am working against a spring, and if I release pressure on the key, it will return to position 0.5.

If I hold the key in position 0, I have to maintain a counter clockwise torque to pull the key out of the barrel. It also takes more force to pull the key out.

There used to be a clunk from the steering lock when they key was pulled, presumably pushing the locking bolt against the column shaft, effectively "arming" the steering lock. That doesn't happen any more, nor does the steering lock no matter where I position the wheel with the key out.

If I open the door with the key out, the dashboard display says the key is not removed. Locking the door with the key produces a single beep, and the car does appear to be locked, although the red light on the inside power lock button is lit. Presumably the sensor is really looking at lock arming.

Putting the key back in also requires both a counter clockwise torque on the key, and more insertion force. Once the key is in, it doesn't stay in Position 0, but springs to new Position 0.5.

I've tried WD40 down the barrel with no change to these symptoms.

From what I've read here, there doesn't seem much point in bothering with changing the switch, I should just go straight for the lock replacement. It appears to be something mechanical sticking inside the locking mechanism.

Has anyone else had most of these symptoms?

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Do a web search you will find many others that have experienced the same problem.

There is a plastic piece that breaks in the electrical part of the switch that often causes the problems that you are experiencing. That part is no longer available from Porsche. NAPA #4A0905849B ~$12 is one replacement for it. VW and Audi also have the same part, #s ??, that do the same thing for more $$$.

See post 3 above

DIY here

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/

Edited by fpb111
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