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I just got the car back after getting the AOS replaced and noticed that it seems to be running a bit hotter than it was last month. To be fair it's also been about 10-15 degrees hotter than it was the last time I drove the car so I'm not sure if I am still within the norm or if I need to address an issue. Two pics of the temp gauge attached. I tried to connect my bluetooth OBDII scanner to my phone in order to get a more accurate temperature reading but it would not pair and I needed to go into the office. I'll try again at lunch.

 

 

post-1-0-43176700-1403011409_thumb.jpg post-1-0-38552400-1403011418_thumb.jpg

 

Edited by pgvinter
made images viewable here
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I know the oil is fine, will check coolant when the car cools down around lunch time. There is a tiny bit of debris near one of the radiators, I'll clean it out with my shop vac when I get home tonight. Is this dangerously hot?

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I have the same problem, but worse. Mine hits 225 f = 107 c. There is a trick that I learned (gotta search for it here) where you hold down the Up arrow  and recycling air button for 5 seconds and that makes your climate control display show 20 or so different variables, one of them is what your DME thinks the coolant temp is - that is supposed to be more accurate than the almost worthless dash gauge. That is what I watch now, but I wish I didn't.  I cleaned my a/c condensers and radiators ridiculously well, but that did not help much. Also pressure tested with Stant tool - that was not the issue. Am pretty sure based on input from people here that really know what they are talking about that its the thermostat or the water pump that often need replacement at high miles (I am at 62k). 

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A quick update, took the car to dinner with my wife last night, it was high 80s and humid outside but it was around dusk and there was no traffic. Needle barely moved to the right of the direct vertical position. Looks like my car hates traffic but I am wondering if this has to do with the low speed fans not working or at least not working properly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was told by my shop that 220 F is about normal so your temp.needle is about right. Powerwashing twin radiators is on my list to do. I was told the cars tend to run hotter in warm temps.but adding a third radiator kit would drop the temps. 10-15 degrees. Would like to know if anyone here has added a third radiator kit and seen those results.

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I was told by my shop that 220 F is about normal so your temp.needle is about right. Powerwashing twin radiators is on my list to do. I was told the cars tend to run hotter in warm temps.but adding a third radiator kit would drop the temps. 10-15 degrees. Would like to know if anyone here has added a third radiator kit and seen those results.

I don't agree that 220F is normal, unless you are in the dessert. Your temp should be around 185-206. I have a 3rd radiator, and the temp runs about 10F cooler when the car is moving.You may have debris in the radiators, or your H2O pump may be failing. Check to see if your radiator fans turn on around 212F, drop to low speed when temp is around 205F.

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Very strangely, mine actually comes down once I am sitting in traffic - very predictably, by a few degrees.  I can't figure why that would be.  ps. I would be happy to have pgvinters' readings!

Are you sure that both fans work on low and high speed? 

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I was told by my shop that 220 F is about normal so your temp.needle is about right. Powerwashing twin radiators is on my list to do. I was told the cars tend to run hotter in warm temps.but adding a third radiator kit would drop the temps. 10-15 degrees. Would like to know if anyone here has added a third radiator kit and seen those results.

I don't agree that 220F is normal, unless you are in the dessert. Your temp should be around 185-206. I have a 3rd radiator, and the temp runs about 10F cooler when the car is moving.You may have debris in the radiators, or your H2O pump may be failing. Check to see if your radiator fans turn on around 212F, drop to low speed when temp is around 205F.

Thanks for info. Water pump was replaced due to failure a few thousand miles ago and radiator fans are operational so I'm going to see how a proper radiator cleaning works out. I'll post results and if no improvement I suppose 3rd radiator would be the next step. Possibly defective thermostat, but I suppose that would throw a code warning.

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I just drove my car again today and activated the OBC readings in the HVAC controls. Temp peaked at 104 for a minute or two but generally stayed around 102. Still not sure how to check for the operation of the fans but definitely want to check that. The water pump was done in the last two years so I'm not worried about that. The temp only spikes when I am in slow traffic and the temperature is in the mid 80s or higher outside. When driving at normal speeds it never goes over 100. 

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An AOS replacement shouldn't affect the cooling system.  A Durametric tool can check the radiator fan speeds.  I would check the ratio of antifreeze vs. distilled water in your coolant.  I would also check the radiator cap for the most current version which I think is 05. 

 

You may just have trapped air in the system. Check your water fluid level and top off if necessary.  Flip your bleeder valve up and run a few drive cycles, then recheck coolant and close the bleeder valve. If you have no constant or flashing red light by the temp gauge on the console your OK and you may just have a faulty gauge.

Edited by kbrandsma
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I don't think anything changed after the AOS, I've just been paying more attention to the gauge and it's gotten hotter out. Where is the bleeder valve? I am also thinking about doing the high speed fan switch mod to increase cooling when driving in traffic. Any thought on the pros/cons of that? It seems quite simple to do and I don't see any downside to the method described here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/15470-high-speed-fan-relay-hackmod/ 

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... Temp peaked at 104 for a minute or two but generally stayed around 102. Still not sure how to check for the operation of the fans but definitely want to check that. 

 

My high speed fans and engine fan kick on at 107-108 (225F).  If you're hitting 104, you should be able to reach 108 in a few minutes just by idling, to test it.  That's what I do and the only way I know of, since I have no durametric, nor have I built my relay jumper (yet).

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