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My 1999 911 Carrera started smoking at a streetlight. Very smelly blue smoke was coming from under the engine cover. I pulled over and popped the cover. Blue smoke was coming from somewhere under the engine (not the exhaust). The engine stopped very suddenly.
We don't have a local Porsche dealer, but the Subaru dealer owns a bunch of 911s and he has a couple Porsche mechanics. I had it towed there.
The C1 fuse ("Engine Electronics") was blown. They replaced it, but as soon as they turned the key, the "cam adjuster wiring harness" (I do not know what this is) began to smoke, and the fuse blew again.
They disconnected the cam adjuster wiring harness (I don't know what this means, and neither did the service advisor), and the fuse stayed intact, and they got the car started. They were able to drive it out to the parking lot with no problems.
They said I need a new cam adjuster wiring harness (again, no idea what this is), and this would require an engine out repair, which they could not do. They estimated this work at $5,000 to $6,000.
Additionally, they did not know how drivable the car was with a disconnected cam adjuster wiring harness.
So ... how bad is this? (Service report image attached.)
To all 996 owners with PSE, especially those with a 4S.
I think my 996 C4S exhaust behaves oddly. I think it's a fault but you might tell me it's normal behaviour. The problem is that I've always had this 'fault' on my car so I don't know if it's a fault or intentional behaviour. If you have the same car, perhaps you can shed some light on this.
When I start it, it's noisy and sounds great. It quiets down as it runs for the first 5 mins.
I have the PSE system and when I press the button you can audibly hear the exhaust note change - quieter when on and louder when off. Default is off so loud.
Here's the rub. Up to around 1500rpm it's got a good noise then it fades out to the point where it's so quiet it's like driving my partners Yaris. If I keep accelerating, when I get to around 3500rpm the exhaust suddenly gets loud again. I mean it's immediate - like someones flipping a switched marked loud. It sounds great.
It happens in 2nd and 3rd gears most noticeably and the PSE is in the 'off' position. If I have the PSE button on, then it's just quiet all the time and that works fine.
So why the silent spot?
I did read somewhere that German market cars might have had a system that turns on and off the PSE at certain speeds to prevent people driving round residential streets with a loud exhaust but information is thin and I don't think I was ever on UK cars.
I have also had a small go at checking vacuum pressure at idle on both sides of the Y piece in the engine bay but both hold good pressure. One side has only a microscopic leak but not enough to cause this kind of issue.
Hi everyone, I just got a set of gauges for a 2005 996. I'm building a simulator for PC and would like to wire the gauges to work with racing games. I am in need of the wiring diagrams for the cluster. If anyone has a picture or manual that can help me out it would be great! Looking for inputs, power, signal.
By Ravi Matharu
My 99 996 has started beeping twice when I press the key fob.
It locks and then immediately unlocks.
Also when opening the drivers side door, the window goes down when handle is pulled but goes straight back up when the handle is released. So the window obstructs the door closing.
I have the following Durametric Alarm errors:
Voltage failure during alarm
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1 10
Voltage failure at terminal 30
with alarm system active
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1 46
Control locking synchronization
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 2 49
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1 21
W lead ( DME immobilizer)
Status: not present
Frequency counter: 1
What's the best way to proceed with fixing this?
Instrument cluster completely dark and gauges not moving.
How to save $5000 in 3 easy steps.
2002 Boxster S
Here is my story, the problem AND THE SOLUTION.
I have a 2002 Boxster S which was sitting for approximately 6 months unused. As you might expect the battery was dead when I went to use it. It was easy to jump with a portable jumper starter. The car started right up and it was easy to drive. However, when I stopped to get gas, the dashboard instrument cluster went crazy and all the idiot lights came on. Even though I had driven the car for about a half-hour the battery was dead, so being prepared, I use my portable jumper starter. The car started up fine, however all the idiots lights stayed on. The instrument cluster otherwise worked. Drove home, left the doors slightly open so that I would not get locked out, and open the hood so I could get to the battery, then turned off the car. Shortly thereafter drove to get a battery, but now all the idiot lights were on and the instrument cluster was completely dark. Gauges were not moving. Nothing! The battery was replaced while the car was off. After restarting with a new battery, the gauges were not moving, the instrument cluster was dark and now only the check engine/oil pressure idiot light was on. Drove home and turned the car off. However, the check engine/oil pressure idiot light stayed on, even though the car was off. I asked my local mechanic who recommended, "Just take it to Porsche". So I called the Porsche dealer, who could not take the car for a week, but figured it needed a new instrument cluster and after diagnosing fees and the all the other fees and costs would be a few thousand dollars. So, I decided to search the web. I did not find an example exactly like mine, but after my research it seemed that the main computer might have been confused by too many low-voltage signals since the battery was weak. I was sure there had been no overvoltage situations or sparks. I had little to lose, so I thought I'd try the following which worked!
Tools needed: 10 mm socket wrench and portable jumper starter.
Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench.
Reconnect the negative (black) cable to the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench.
If needed use the portable jumper starter to start the car.
Smile and save $5000.
The instrument cluster is working perfectly and all the idiot lights are off, even the radio works! Hope this helps someone else!