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M030 From B4 to B8 - suspension upgrade
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Similar Content
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By OscarAH1W
Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
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By mikesz
I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
List of what was replaced:
All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
2 Inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
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By AR_Groundzero
I currently have a 2002 Porsche Boxster S with 86k miles on it. I drive it spirited and do some autocross. I noticed that my right strut started to make some noise and the ride does not seem as firm as it once was. I am thinking about upgrading my suspension with the ROW M030 kit. I am interested in adding a bit more handling while maintaining everyday comfort and drivability. I have read a bunch of articles in regards to all the other parts you should replace when you do the ROW M030 swap. Upon pricing all the parts they are almost 3k!! Here are the parts and pricing I have so far:
202 99734301800 2 - Front Strut Mounts 175.5 98633305906 2 - Rear Strut Mounts 74 99634351505 2 - Strut Bearings (front only) 1795
ROW M030 European Sport Suspension Kit 170 986DLINKF Front Drop Links 170 986DLINKR Rear Drop Links 13 986FRCOMP front compensation plates(size? 3mm or 6.5mm) 13 986RRCOMP rear compensation plates(size? 3mm or 6.5mm) 38 99634350500 Front Shock Bellows 38 98633350501 Rear Shock Bellows 35 99634330102 Front Bump Stops 50 98633330101 Rear Bump Stops
Can you experts please help me determine if I am missing anything else or are there some parts that I just dont need.....
Also any tutorials/advice that anyone can give me would be great.
THANK YOU!
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By troyporsche
hey guys , past couple months my cayenne s 04 air suspension warning light has been on, after a minute of driving. when i try lowing or raising the vehicle, the front end works fine but the rear suspension stay stationery in raise mode. even when using the diagnostic to force the rear to lower nothing happens .fault codes in the level control system was for rear suspension holding valve . so i went ahead and replaced both rear holding valve and recalibrate the suspension. it worked fine for two months .now the warning light is back the rear suspension is stuck in high and not lowing.
new fault codes p1780 , 1400
im unsure what to do. do i replace the valve again or is there some else wrong
what do you guys think?
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By Vish_ster
Folks,
I started noticing this intermittent creak/groan on the driver's side front suspension, every time I egress the car, after a spirited drive.
I have had some creaking due to the lubrication loss in the ball joint area from the rear and have used the hole-in-the-rubber-boot to inject grease to keep the noise from recurring. I did the same for the front, just to be sure.
This noise puzzles me.
Based on my research, it may be the front strut mount bearing but didn't want to go about replacing parts without your opinions.
It doesn't occur when the steering wheel is moved from corner to corner though or feel different during a drive.
Shows up only when there is downward pressure on the foot area in the driver side, during egress or when pressure is applied on the car side fender over/near the strut area.
Here is a video of the latter, for audio on two creak/groans between the spring movement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkRMza6B3ms
Appreciate your insights on what this can be...
My car is clocking nearly 173K ...so wondering if this can be a simple DIY or figure out the need to have a complete strut bearing and/or strut replacement.
Thank you,
V
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