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So for my car , 996 C2 , 2003 with 70 TMiles and M030 suspension .
Im currently in process of purchasing several parts for suspension refresh , so to say .
Whole process came to a corner , left or right , from perspective of refreshing it since rear shock absorbers , i have planned to purchase are not available , anywhere .
At least not for reasonable/decent price
Plan is to refresh my stock M030 shocks , front and rear , where Bilstein B4 is standard which came with car .
Now , i have received front shocks but rear ones are not available and supplier does not know when they will be available .
I could not find them online , also , not a single supplier have them on stock, so only option , order them , pay them and wait for Bilstein to make them and deliver ..
Development of situation is is that my supplier have offered me Bilstein B8 as option , more or less same price as B4 .
Now, guys ,..
As part of refreshment i have bought several additional parts, which are part of suspension and fit B4 setup, for all 4 corners..
hexagon nut M 10
additional spring - bump stop
So to say rubbers and plastics ..
Springs i plan to keep , so no new springs planned ..
Will all those part be usable with B8 shocks , so plug and play .
What will be height difference , is B8 height adjustable or height is same as M030
WIll B8 shocks be delivered with installation manual
I have read recent article , it seams, came in right moment for me 🙂
So positive opinion on Bilstein B8 , which is ok , but im not worried about B8 on German Autobahn , my worry is as i wrote , will this be plug and play considering replacement of current ROW M030
or something needs to be bought specifically beside refreshment parts i have already bought .
Have some experience with wrenching around , front shock mount , Wheel bearing , basic service , sparks, mufflers , ignition Switch , etc ..
But few additional thingies and advises as additional knowledge is always welcomed .
Thank you very much guys ..
Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
List of what was replaced:
All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
2 Inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
hey guys , past couple months my cayenne s 04 air suspension warning light has been on, after a minute of driving. when i try lowing or raising the vehicle, the front end works fine but the rear suspension stay stationery in raise mode. even when using the diagnostic to force the rear to lower nothing happens .fault codes in the level control system was for rear suspension holding valve . so i went ahead and replaced both rear holding valve and recalibrate the suspension. it worked fine for two months .now the warning light is back the rear suspension is stuck in high and not lowing.
new fault codes p1780 , 1400
im unsure what to do. do i replace the valve again or is there some else wrong
what do you guys think?
I started noticing this intermittent creak/groan on the driver's side front suspension, every time I egress the car, after a spirited drive.
I have had some creaking due to the lubrication loss in the ball joint area from the rear and have used the hole-in-the-rubber-boot to inject grease to keep the noise from recurring. I did the same for the front, just to be sure.
This noise puzzles me.
Based on my research, it may be the front strut mount bearing but didn't want to go about replacing parts without your opinions.
It doesn't occur when the steering wheel is moved from corner to corner though or feel different during a drive.
Shows up only when there is downward pressure on the foot area in the driver side, during egress or when pressure is applied on the car side fender over/near the strut area.
Here is a video of the latter, for audio on two creak/groans between the spring movement.
Appreciate your insights on what this can be...
My car is clocking nearly 173K ...so wondering if this can be a simple DIY or figure out the need to have a complete strut bearing and/or strut replacement.