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rockitman

Porsche TE Roll Bar Installation Guide

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Porsche TE Roll Bar Installation Guide


Instructions are rather simple: Remove the rear view mirror. I did not need too. Of course the seats are already out of the car. Slip the roll bar into the car by rotating it on it's side with legs facing toward the rear of the car. The front legs should be oriented on the bottom when doing this. Carefully get it into the car and slowly rotate the bar up and back towards the final position(If you have a sunroof, be very careful. The mechanics under the roof lining are sharp and the roll bar can

 

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Thanks Loren and thank you for the instructions on removing the seatbelt slider and clothes hook. I will post pics of most of the install this weekend and edit my how to with a link to the pics with captioned descriptions. Yes it's the roll bar in the first pic with the harness bar...

post-21-1068830056_thumb.jpg

Edited by rockitman

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Pictures of a good portion of the roll bar install have been posted to my site and are available via the link provided after the verbal instructions on the starting thread. Verbal captions for the pictures will be provided shortly.

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Hi Rockitman,

I installed to same Roll Bar this weekend (Tequipment) and I tried to follow your instructions. Fortunatly I had the factory description as well, otherwise I would have been lost... :( ;)

The way you describe is does not always follow the factory guidelines and I think your way makes it really hard (and dangerous for some components).

Let me try to describe the factory procedure for the preparation of the car in a few words:

- Remove plastic parts of seat belt (top)

- remove cloth hanger

- remove top anchor point of seat belt

- remove B-Pillar panel

- unscrew side panel (the one with the speaker)

- remove side panel to access the floor carpet

- unhook carpet from plastic sill panel

- take a jig saw and modify plastic panel according to the template delivered with the instructions

- put everything together again (without cloth hanger and belt parts).

Only after that you should lift the roll bar into the car and continue with the installation of the bar itself.

If you follow these guidelines you can easily position the roll bar at the lower attachment points and rotate it to the rear mounting points. Everything lines up, no jamming or pinching.

This can then be done without your way of 'brute force' which would be needed to crush the plastic rocker panel by rotating the bar with mounted lower attachment points. IMO your approach is a very rude method. The plastic rocker panel should definitly be properly cut and not crushed. It's a very sturdy piece of plastic hidden behind the carpet that slivers if you hit it too hard. Since there are a lot of electrical lines behind I would be very worried what happens with the splinters.

If you properly cut these pieces you may spend a bit more time for the preparation (but it can be done in less than an hour for both sides), but it is well worth it. I tried it your way, but I had massive problems avoiding to hit the windscreen or to tear off the rear mirrow. After an hour of trying and swaering I started from scratch, this time following the Porsche procedures...

Eh voila, bingo, it worked. :thumbup:

The rest of your description is correct and was very helpful, but I can only recommend to follow the PAG-way with these hidden plastic rocker panels.

regards

Wolfgang :cheers:

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Hello! I should be installing my TE Roll Bar in 2 weeks. Anyone have the Factory Description Document avalilable online ???

Thanks in advance!

Conrado

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Hi Conrado,

mine is unfortunatly in german, so I think it will not help too much.

If you really plan to install it yourself, maybe you local dealer can give you a copy?

One word of warning: it is not really easy as there are quite a few parts that can easily be scratched or damaged. I heard of broken windows, ripped off mirrors, damaged roof linings...

If you do not have at least a bit experience you better leave it to the dealer.

Regards

Wolfgang

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Way to go Wolfgang. I was unware that Porsche had install instructions. While the prep seems more labor intensive than my method, the install of the bar sounds much easier. I have heard of people cuting the rocker panel plastic and they also indicate it makes it easier. I got started with deforming the panel which is much more difficult. I did not have any problems with scratching anything, but I did need to be careful. When I realized at the begining that it was going to be a battle and I almost gave up, I had to dig deep and rise up to the challenge. Once it was done, victory was that much sweeter!!!! :thumbup:

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Hi Rockitman,

I bought mine through ebay and fortunatly the previous owner had these instructions available. I doubt that they always sell the bar with them... but with your instructions and my additions it should be easy now for the rest of the gang :cheers:

In Germany we need the official approval from 'TUV' after the installation. The paperwork which comes with the part to get this approval needs an official stamp and signature from the authorized dealer who installed it. This makes sure that everything is correct (well, at least this is the theory, you can get the TUV approval also without this stamp if it's properly done...).

So the roll bar installation is not intended to be a DIY project...

Anyway: I tried it your way and almost gave up...

The time you invest in cutting the panels is well invested. If you have the tools and you know how to dismantle the whole stuff it's done in an hour. It's definitly worth it. :thumbup:

Regards

Wolfgang

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Just posting to this thread to help anyone who tries to install the roll bar.

I got some help from Wolfgang, but each time it was a day late! I am guessing because of the time zone difference(he is in Germany and I am on the East Coast USA).

The first night my friend and I tried Rockitman's way as we didn't have instructions or template from Porsche. The front and rear seats came out no problems. The bar went in, without removing mirror but we couldn't fit it in place. Our plan was to bolt in the fronts and then rotate the bar back, but the new bolts that came with the roll/harness bar wouldn't thread!

That night I got an email from Wolfgang warning us about that very issue! So we picked up a tap(strange that the bolt threads are US not metric. 7/16th I believe) and started again. Got the bar in last night after cutting the plastic panel without a template(it's easy to see what needs to be cut). The GT3 seats went in, but we ended up having to do a bit of work on the first one since the lap harness' didn't fit as planned. We finished up at midnight, with only the 2 pairs of shoulder harnesses and the actual fire extinguisher left to install(the bracket is in).

Of course this morning I check my email and find an email from Wolfgang telling me what to cut and other advice! Figures! But thanks for your help Wolfgang! I have no idea how Rockitman A) installed it himself and B) installed it without cutting the panels. I have a 2003 so maybe there are some differences? I also didn't like how the bolts stuck out on rockitmans rear bars so I installed it with the spacer on the side. Still sits flush and looks MUCH cleaner.

In the last few days my friend and I installed the following ourselves:

GHL Loud exhaust (eay)

X74 Suspension (easy except for jack points and figuring out where rear tail light parts go)

Instrument Cowl painted in Seal Grey (easy)

Tequipment Roll/Harness bar (hard)

Pair of GT3 Seats(easy, but medium to hard when you add in harnesses, anti sub belt cross member and brey-krause fire extinguisher bracket also very time consuming)

Pair of DEIST 6 point harnesses in red (easy)

All set for an alignment, tech inspection and to get the airbag warning turned off next week at the dealer.(I turned on car to put down windows as I forgot I could do it with key in door)

I'll post pics when I get a chance. Hope this info can help others out in the future.

Edited by jenner

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Hi Jenner,

you were right putting the spacers for the backseat-legs of the bar between the thread and the bar (and not the way Rockitman made it between the bar and the head of the screw). Not only does it look much cleaner, but this is also the way PAG recommends it. (With a bit of mechanical understanding I think it is quite obvoius... :rolleyes: )

I try to add my drawing for the cut-out I made for Jenner, I hope this works. I agree that it is easy to see what needs to be cut once you know that something has to be cut at all.

regards

Wolfgang

post-21-1081318896_thumb.jpg

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I took the spacers out completely and used better grade 8 7/16 fine thread bolts with thicker bolts heads...Must less likely to sheer.

Edited by rockitman

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Hello Guys! Today I installed the GT3 Roll bar and other stuffs. Actually I installed the Sports Bar, the one without the cross bar. (That's because I'm a little tall)

Well I have to thank you guys for the great instructions. I've mixed Wolfgang and Rockitman instructions.

First I installed the colored seat belts, so I had to remove the side panels, and reached easily the rocker plastic panel, but I didn't cut it, as my other friend insisted that this feature was only for the "crossed" bar. Then I closed everything and moved the roll bar into the car, very easy. BUT after placing it in the correct position, it was impossible to bolt it. (Rockitman probably used a different longer bolt to crush the plastic panel, right ?) Then, instead of removing all the side panels again, as the roll bar was already there, I managed to remove the lower carpet only, by pushing the side panel bottom just a little off! (Saved some 30 min at least!!!) Than I cut the plastic, and PERFECT, the roll bar was now able to bolt in! Then just minor issues bolting them (For me best way was bolting the fronts first) and the roll bar and colored seat belts ready! It's a tought job, but very rewarding after you finish!

Now I just need to get those beautiful GT3 seats !!! (Next Month)

Oh, also I swaped my broken center console, upgraded e-brake to carbon one and added a carbon shifter, and the GT3 console delete... Done after the Roll bar installation, it was SO MUCH easier to do....

Well, bottom line is it seems that I bought a new car... it's completely different!!!!

Thanks for all the help!

Conrado

996 C2 1998 with some Mods!

Edited by Conrado

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Hello Guys! Today I installed the GT3 Roll bar and other stuffs. Actually I installed the Sports Bar, the one without the cross bar.

(That's because I'm a little tall)

Does the installation of the rollbar with the crossmembers hinder the seats from moving all the way back? I am also tall. I know the seatbacks won't recline to much, but I need the seats to move all the way back.

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Hi JP66,

the seatbacks of the GT3 seats don't recline at all.

I don't know how tall you are, but with my 1.85m there is plenty of space left behind the seat if you drive in a proper distance to the steering wheel.

Sitting too far away limits the ability to control the car, but some people prefer such a position. Then the seat may conflict with the x-bar.

Regards

Wolfgang

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Hi JP66,

the seatbacks of the GT3 seats don't recline at all.

Regards

Wolfgang

Yes, I know about the GT3 seats. I have regular seats in a 996 C4S. If I put in a rollbar, will my seats go back all the way still. I'm not worried about whether they can recline with the rollbar, just the base going back...I am 6'3".

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I did an install this morning, Rockitman and Wolfgang, thanks for the notes. They were very helpful. A couple of comments:

- Following Wolfgang's notes and template, I trimmed the plastic pieces with a Dremel tool. This went fast and was easy and avoided having to crush the plastic.

- I used a strap between the rear arms to compress the arms together. This made rotating the bar into position easier. Doing so also simplified the installation of the spacers between the carpet and the bars. The strap was a trailer tiedown strap with a ratchet.

- I used a second strap between one of the rear arms and the front bar to compress the arm forward. This helped align things properly for the rear bolt installation.

- The most time consuming part was installing the rear bolts. I know of several people who had theirs cross threaded and striped, so I wanted to be very careful. I readjusted the straps until it was possible to install the bolts by hand. Once in, I released the straps and torqued everything down.

- Rather than reinstalling the seat belt ends to the chassis bolts, I connected them to the GT3 seats instead. The advantage is that later if you ever need to remove the belts and seats to do work on the car, you won't have to worry about unbolting the bar and having it come out of alignment.

It took me about 5 hours for the install, working my myself.

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:censored: So where do I begin? I scratched a spot on the door jam putting it in. Then I ended up cracking my windshield. Lastly I scraped the suede off my suede headliner. NEVER AGAIN, I can't believe people can actually get this to fit. I even had a ratcheting tie down to bring the legs in. I am going to have someone put it in. Biggest mistake ever, and I have done everything else to the car myself without a hitch. No one should try this IMHO. I frankly feel mislead on the ease of the install, and have a lot of damage from trying to do it. :cursing:

I did an install this morning, Rockitman and Wolfgang, thanks for the notes. They were very helpful. A couple of comments:

- Following Wolfgang's notes and template, I trimmed the plastic pieces with a Dremel tool. This went fast and was easy and avoided having to crush the plastic.

- I used a strap between the rear arms to compress the arms together. This made rotating the bar into position easier. Doing so also simplified the installation of the spacers between the carpet and the bars. The strap was a trailer tiedown strap with a ratchet.

- I used a second strap between one of the rear arms and the front bar to compress the arm forward. This helped align things properly for the rear bolt installation.

- The most time consuming part was installing the rear bolts. I know of several people who had theirs cross threaded and striped, so I wanted to be very careful. I readjusted the straps until it was possible to install the bolts by hand. Once in, I released the straps and torqued everything down.

- Rather than reinstalling the seat belt ends to the chassis bolts, I connected them to the GT3 seats instead. The advantage is that later if you ever need to remove the belts and seats to do work on the car, you won't have to worry about unbolting the bar and having it come out of alignment.

It took me about 5 hours for the install, working my myself.

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Sorry to hear you had so much trouble. My brother and I did it a couple of weeks ago and it was a handful, and we have a lot of experience working on and building race cars. While we didn't have all the problems you did, I did manage to scratch my door jam during the test fit and we managed to screw up one of the bolt holes despite all our best efforts. Luckily we changed out to better quality grade 8 bolts and the install was easier. Even longer bolts would be better. But I agree with you, this is a difficult diy, I would say 9 on a 10 scale.

Edited by dj996

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****, sounds like a nightmare install. It was tough for my brother and I, but now that I know all the pitfalls, I'm going to try mine solo in a couple of days, I'll let you know.

Edited by C4S Surgeon

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I had the guy who is repainting my car put it in. He did a lot of work on my father's turbo so I got it done for free. I wish I would have taken him up on the favor before I scratched my suede headliner and cracked my windshield :(. I pick up the car on Wednesday. Anyone have suggestions for harnesses?

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I recently re-installed the TE roll bar for a series of upcoming track events. Note the roll bar can be completely removed in less than 1 hour.

Edited by dj996

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