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drpaulmarsh

RoW M030 Sport Suspension Install

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Great write up.

Other than new carrier bolts, is there anything that I should get before tackling this? Should everything else needed be included in the kit?

With respect to the spring compensation plates, is it imperative that they match in terms of thickness?

What's the best way to reassemble the spring onto the shock (i.e. a vice on a workbench)?

Where's the best point for the floor jack/jack stands?

Thanks

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I have a 2002 C4s installing the PS10's. Question how do I remove the cover behind the back seats to get to the upper mounts. It does not seem to move very easy. The instructions say no clips but I do not want to break anything. It has the BOSE system in or at least air holes on the section I need to remove. In short how do you remove it?

Thanks for the help and can't wait to get them on.

soutahc4s.

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I have a 2002 C4s installing the PS10's. Question how do I remove the cover behind the back seats to get to the upper mounts. It does not seem to move very easy. The instructions say no clips but I do not want to break anything. It has the BOSE system in or at least air holes on the section I need to remove. In short how do you remove it?

Thanks for the help and can't wait to get them on.

soutahc4s.

Grab it at the bottom and lift up. It is foam covered with carpet.

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Loren:

On the rear strut removal I found a reply that said to pull out the BOSE air hole things and use a torx to remove the botls and then lift up and then disonnect power or do I just pull up on it like you said? IT has the BOSE system in it.

2nd i am installing the ps10's in my C4s and we are a little confused on removing the front struts. Do you have a more detailed diagram on what to remove before taking out the strut. Since it is 4 wheel drive. I found a reply in this forum, but did not quite understand what it was saying to do. Everything else looks straight forward except what to remove to give the spindle room to get the strut out from under the fender or just a better explanation regarding the drive axle and ball joint etc.

Thanks for a great forum. Also is there another way to contribute other than using pay pal? I am a contributor.

soutah C4S

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Yes remove the BOSE first - 4 screws per side.

Front axles

Loosen stabilizer mount at stabilizer.

Undo track rod and control arm on wheel carrier and use the proper ball joint tool to get the ball joint off.

Protect the drive shaft. Swivel (pull) spring strut outwards without using excess force and extend drive shaft.

That should give you enough room without removing the whole drive shaft.

You can use a credit card to donate - it uses the PayPal interface but you do not need a PayPal account.

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What about retorqueing the ball joint can't get a torque wrench on it. Just tight?

Thanks and will go through the paypal portal.

Thanks again.

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Loren:

So I do not have to loosen the axle nut or if so just al little so there is play on the axle with the hub or take the nut clear off? If i have to remove nut what are the torque specs? I do not want to remove the hub or wheel carrier from the axle?

Thanks

Soutahc4s

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So, I'm getting the M030 kit for my 99 C2 Coupe 996 in a few days. The car's done 110k and I'd like to refresh the suspension, hopefully also fixing an annoying but elusive pot-hole knocking in the process. I'm hoping to do it myself.

I've recently replaced both front lower arms (fixed annoying squeaks) and have rears to go on when the M030 is fitted. I also have replacement drop links to go on too.

The Indy suggests I replace the top mounts too - can anyone confirm the part numbers for these? I'm a bit confused - for example, my suspension is stock at the moment so AFAIK has 99734301801 front mounts. I was going to order new ones but note that against this part number it says "fits Porsche 996 C2 1998-05 (without sport suspension)". Of course I soon will have sports suspension, so what mount fits? And if those mounts are no good why don't Porsche make you change them when you fit the M030?

Confused..

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So, I'm getting the M030 kit for my 99 C2 Coupe 996 in a few days. The car's done 110k and I'd like to refresh the suspension, hopefully also fixing an annoying but elusive pot-hole knocking in the process. I'm hoping to do it myself.

I've recently replaced both front lower arms (fixed annoying squeaks) and have rears to go on when the M030 is fitted. I also have replacement drop links to go on too.

The Indy suggests I replace the top mounts too - can anyone confirm the part numbers for these? I'm a bit confused - for example, my suspension is stock at the moment so AFAIK has 99734301801 front mounts. I was going to order new ones but note that against this part number it says "fits Porsche 996 C2 1998-05 (without sport suspension)". Of course I soon will have sports suspension, so what mount fits? And if those mounts are no good why don't Porsche make you change them when you fit the M030?

Confused..

997-343-018-01 is the correct part number for a MY99 C2 Coupe.

The mounts have been updated several times and these are the latest.

I see no note in Porsche's part system that these have any special use (or non-use requirements).

The only 996 series suspension that get different strut mounts is the X74 package.

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997-343-018-01 is the correct part number for a MY99 C2 Coupe.

The mounts have been updated several times and these are the latest.

I see no note in Porsche's part system that these have any special use (or non-use requirements).

The only 996 series suspension that get different strut mounts is the X74 package.

Thanks Loren - good to know.

This is the ad that suggests otherwise..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Supporting-Mount-Porsche-996-997-Boxster-Cayman-/120953361540

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Thanks Loren

Do you think it worth changing the bearings with the top mounts?

I can only find part numbers for C4 top mount bearings - could you let me know the part number for my 99MY C2 man coupe?

Thanks again

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I'm in the midst of this project on my 2000 C4.

I can't break the grip of the 32mm nut to be able to disconnect the half axle at the wheel end - so I am reverting to a plan B that I read about somewhere - removing the halfshaft from the differential.

I have loosened all the suspension parts and steering parts that are holding the botton of the strut in place (tie rod end, control arm) and bought the tool to lever the two halves of the ball joint apart.

Once I have done this - will the half shaft really just slide out of the diff? Do I need to loosen anything at the diff end? There is a plate visible where the half shaft enters the diff - does that need to be loosened/removed?

Any help from someone who has used this approach would be greatly appreciated

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I wouldn't bother taking it out of the diff... seems like a lot of extra work..

Lower the car down on it wheels and/or have a friend forcefully hold the brake pedal down.

If you dont have access to air tools.......Use a breaker bar (min 1/2") with the socket and maybe a pipe on the end of the bar for more leverage. this should do it. Also spray some penetrating oil on the exposed threads and I would anti-sieze compound the end of the shaft before installing it afterwards.

Please be careful you dont want to scratch your car or smash your knuckle off the pavement and or you face off the fender.

Cheers and good luck.

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In reply to my own question (#63) - having now removed both sides - I can tell you that the half shalfs did just slide out of the differential case. Once all the suspension components were loose I gave it a firm tug and it disengaged from the diff and everything came away.

Its not so light when its all in one piece (strut, wheel carrier, half shaft) so be prepared. I had removed the rotor which made it lighter.

I reassembled single handed using a trolley jack as a support under the bottom of the control arm to get the wheel carrier high enough t get the half shaft falt so it went into the diff level (not as complex as it sounds...)

I then loosely assembled all the suspension parts and made sure it was all lined up, before taking a piece of wood, placing it on the joint on the half shaft and drifting the half shaft into the diff. This went in quite easily.

So far so good...

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Excellent upgrade. Exactly what I was hoping for in terms of handling and ride.

Edited by 1dmurrray

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Hi there,

Appreciate this is an old thread, but the link to the DIY seems to have problems.

It only shows to point #5

Am I doing something wrong?

Thank you in advance

Peter

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Hi there,

Appreciate this is an old thread, but the link to the DIY seems to have problems.

It only shows to point #5

Am I doing something wrong?

Thank you in advance

Peter

The problem should be fixed now -- please try again.

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I know you get told all the time, but I cannot resist to say it again.

Loren...YOU ROCK!

Thank you for your speedy turn around and an amazingly informative and helpful forum!

Cheers

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i have a 99 c4 and installed front H&R lowering springs. it lowered the car about 1.5" but now the passenger side lower radiator hose rubs on the axle just slightly.

has anyone ran into this problem?

any help is appreciated!

thanks,

pete

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Loren,

I am gathering all the required parts to convert my 2003 C2 coupe to the M030 sport suspension. I purchased a used set of struts and shocks with springs and needed to match the sway bars. Looking at the pats diagrams and all the options for bars, I am unsure what to get. Could you clarify the sway bars I need front and rear for the conversion by part number and diameter? Also confirm if any or all of my stock bars are the same as the M030 requirements. I ask because it appeared from the parts diagram that the front may be universal fitment for the sport suspension.

Thanks in advance and for the guidance earlier.

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For your MY2003 Coupe, 6-speed (convert to M030):

(These are all the latest upgraded part numbers).

 

front struts - 996 343 041 37

front springs - 996 343 531 19 504 (color code green/white)

front sway bar - 996 343 701 21

 

rear struts - 996 333 051 49

rear springs - 996 333 531 69 504 (color code green/red)

rear sway bar - 996 333 701 26

 

 

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Thank you Loren...

This will get closer to the conversion.

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