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lewisweller
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Everything posted by lewisweller
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YBE essentially I'm on the same possible prognosis that the pump actually seems to work when the engine is cold has some enrichment to cover up the lower fuel pressure delivery. But depending on your ambient temperature this quickly warms up and the stutter is felt. As I'm here in the middle east all summer the car basic never got less than 40oc temp even over night so cold starts are virtually none, the winter comes now and 20oc is lowest so I do get some small window of warm up 5 mins max to drive the car and feel it does pull almost clean and perfect, but before I get out of my community it already misfiring for the rest of the day. My issue is slightly different to yours in the fact both the pumps work. But both the pumps don't deliver enough pressure when warm. Fuel heating is one of the things Porsche tried to mitigate against by having two pump which don't always run togther but only when required like in high prolonged flow and or low fuel level to ensure both side of tank drain equally to empty. I'm still to do the fuel pressure and flow test. Flow I belive is OK because you would have the stutter at high rpm wot. Pressure related issues highlight at pick up, acceleration and dripping back to idle after injectors are shut and then open to hold the idle after lift off.
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Yes it seems aside from fuel problems the list of possibles for idle problems and dips is a few: Dirty maf's Dirty throttle body or adaption required or complete replacement Coils and or worn/contaminated plugs Leaky or blocked injectors Stretched timing chain or camshaft deviation Vacuum/gaskets leaks is the most likely. As I said I'm 95% sure I cover all the above. The worn mounts just allow you to feel the Dip more pronounced through the chassis despite some other posts swearing the new mount will fix the Dip, it won't. Thanks for the feedback guys, I won't give up on this.
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So how is the car driving now? Did the new flex disc change the other driving issues?
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I've smoke tested it 4 times over the last 6 months after doing works like removing pipes and manifold etc. The idle is fine except now it Dips coming to a stop unless I really baby it down. I'm really confident (famous last words) that there is no more leaks or vac pipes or check valve leaking by, purge valve faulty or aos or divertor valve split, coils plugs two sets and fuel filter and regulator and new maf sensors (I'm listing all the stuff found faulty or replaced maintenence/service stuff). I'm really focusing on the fuel pumps now. I've just read a post from 2012, Thomas had the idle Dip and the garage replaced both pumps and fixed the issue. At 122,000km and the symptoms of a warm engine lean misfire hesitation and idle Dip I'm really leaning towards the pumps getting hot and showing themselves to be less than effective at delivery. It must be borderline as I don't get any codes but the effects are consistently felt whilst driving. At this stage of pulling my hair out and eliminating so many other variables it's the only one of a few remaining possibilities that make sense logically.
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Scrap the above. I missed a key piece of info which I found on another forum, the fuel pump will not auto switch from left to right or visa versa. You have to cycle the ignition off and on with one of fuses out to get the other pump to run. Duh brain. Anyway did the test again today and been running on the right pump only, no change to running stutter symptoms. So I'm Barking up the wrong tree. To be sure that my pump are working correctly I still need to make up a pressure test kit. Sherlock Holmes said ilminate everything possible and what your left with must be the cause. This could take some time ...............
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See video hope it plays OK after compressing. This is my 2006 ctt with 122,000km. During the double head gaskets work 6 months ago at 112,000km I checked the cylinders for scores and Wear, there was none and no lip either where the piston ring finishes on the cylinder wall. So for all intents and purposes a good used engine I think for a audible comparison. I used a 10w40 semi synthetic oil on a short interval of 7,000km between changes. The engine was not completely cold coolant around 30oC and the ambient temperature is around 22oC. The tickiness I would say on the video pick up is more pronounced than it actually is in real life hearing it. You can just make out some changes in the ticks as the lifters start to expand and oil fully circulates and the injectors are adjusting as the car begins to warm which is all normal. videocompress-061-MOV_20170107_2057393.mp4
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Just been for drive after removing and disassembling my throttle body and doing a full internal clean of the motor and sweeping variable resistor tracks and contacts. I couldn't find anything wrong with the throttle body. Put all back together and went for drive after doing a reset. All OK but stutter still there no different to before, didn't hear that whine noise though so maybe it fixed something? So I thought OK back to the possibility of a faulty fuel pump (still no codes fyi). I pulled in a layby and pulled out fuse 14 left pump and the car died which is not right. It should have kicked in the rightside pump automatically. So I'm left with the prognosis that either the relay is faulty, there is a cabling problem or the right side pump is dead!!! I have removed the fuse before and the car ran on either pump I'm sure a few months ago. Maybe the pump was failing but still worked so hence I wasn't any the wiser. Note the filter and regulator are new and the fuse 13 is OK for right side pump. I think tomorrow I will be buying the vdo right side pump and fitting it if swapping the relay of left pump to the right pump doesn't make it work.
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Cytte refer to my previous post you must be 110% sure the battery is in top shape or you are chasing your own a*s around in a circle. Use a battery maintainer for a night and check it in the morning, or just replace the battery if it doesn't check out. You know when I had a no start situation I strip out my starter and found it to be fine, but I stripped it completely down cleaned up everything, bench tested and put it back togther. I subsequently found the alternator was jammed causing the no start. But anyway the point I'm making is after I got it all Fixed the car started so much better because I had simply cleaned up the starter motor internals, brushes and all cable connections reducing the resistances. This car is the worst for anything remotely voltage drop related. As the winter has come more and more people have posted with weird stuff happening and quite a few just needed a new battery (but not all). Cytte is it possible your worn but working starter was affected by your possibly failing battery? Maybe just a new battery and a starter clean up would have been a Fix as opposed to a new starter which will run on the failing battery because it's new and has less internal resistance? Alot of maybes I know but you gotta think outside the box a little when faced with these conundrums. Maybe your pcm is fudged and I'm talking nonsense.
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Anyone know the size of the brass threaded fuel delivery pipe connector which is at the back of the intake manifold? It looks about 1/2" bsp thread to me from memory. I'm going to make a testing kit tomorrow and would help if knew the correct size in advance of buying some fittings.
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Fuel Pump?
lewisweller replied to spooltime's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Yes that make perfect sense, but Spooltime previous post stated fuel smell "outside" the vehicle and then had both pumps replaced as a result. That's what I found strange!it seem whichever way the new pump did the trick I'm just curious how the prognosis came about if not by some good luck. Emissions laws and the whole setup is designed to keep all those pesky hydrocarbons inside. -
Fuel Pump?
lewisweller replied to spooltime's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Yes that make perfect sense, but Spooltime previous post stated fuel smell "outside" the vehicle and then had both pumps replaced as a result. That's what I found strange!it seem whichever way the new pump did the trick I'm just curious how the prognosis came about if not by some good luck. Emissions laws and the whole setup is designed to keep all those pesky hydrocarbons inside. -
Fitted new ngk BRK7EIX plugs with standard pre-gap 0.75mm. The ngk just look so much better and more design specific I think, a fine tip and a tampered elctrode strap all designed for max spark and burn pattern, the beru look caveman in contrast. The results of driving is smoother and more responsiveness. It hasn't magically made the stutter and bucking under boost disappear but wasn't expecting it to, only throttle body resets seems to be able to get the sluggish back after a while of deteriorating driving performance. Idle is smoother and quieter. For a bit of fun using a smart phone app called Vibrometer I measured the vibration of the engine (by placing the phone on the intake manifold just behind the throttle body) at cold start just after the "choke" kicks off, it was 4.4 with the 8000km old oem Beru plugs, with the ngk plugs it was 3.8! Make of that what you will.
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I've disconnected my battery many times and haven't needed to do anything to the pcm. I've also removed and rebuilt my starter motor and replaced alternator for that matter and nothing I can think of should directly or indirectly cause a pcm problem. I think the pcm issue is a result of disconnecting the battery only. What brought around the need to change the starter motor? Have you confirmed your battery is good? (at least 12.6 volts engine off ignition off) and charging voltage engine running at idle and any speed stable 13.7-14.2 volts?
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Yes I'm also impressed by the price, also the mad sensors were cheap from them and I check the o2 sensors where also cheaper but long delivery time. I think as it's export to uae there is much less tax and that is reflected in the retail cost but it's the sole uae genuine Bosch dealer. Maybe I should buy extra and sell back on eBay lol
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Cardan shaft question
lewisweller replied to ciaka's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Good news the cardan shaft is OK then. Did the shop look into your other engine codes when it was there? -
That's about 825 dhs, Bosch here would order me one for 325dhs if I wanted to wait until mid march. I think I'm going to try find one in a scrap yard here in uae. I would love to take mine apart and see of it repairable but if I mess it up I don't have any car. Lol. Thanks Thomas for looking. I think if scrap one isn't found I will be patient and order one for March delivery.
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Thanks Thomas Porsche part number is 94860511503 Bosch part number is 0280750114
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Try this unlock car and get in shut door don't insert key or turn on kessy Dummy key if you have one. Wait 1 minute and then press 1 4 8 simultaneously and hold for 10 seconds then release, wait for 1 minute. Then try to turn on pcm if it didn't already reboot. If on then turn off and exit vehicle and lock. Re- enter start car normally and check pcm if it will work correctly. If not try the method attached. Assume your battery is good and no water in fuse boxes or in foot well under carpet wires broken or corroded? If all fails then maybe pcm is fudged. Good luck.
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That is complete bull***t from the Tuning company. Mine only started a few weeks back before that it was rock solid holding idle, about the only thing it could do well, lol. Same like the "German car specialist" who did my double head gaskets that said the car bucking and surging is normal too and they checked everything and could not find anything wrong with it. Haha I laughed in the guys face, afterwards I found a list of split pipes, a broken divertor valve and open purge solenoid valve. I then got full boost which he assured me was 0.6bar factory, but alas he was wrong when +0.8bar is hit after I Fixed the vac pipes. Also they gassed the four zone AC with the wrong amount. 750g instead of 1150g. After that I never went back and bought vcds and got on to renntech. Don't get me started about the Audi dealer and my extended warranty claims which I have killed them on to the tune of 70,000dhs for a car I paid 120,000dhs for 18 months old at 48,000km. Champagne will pop in the dealership on May 22 2017 when my 5year unlimited km warranty does expire. To date I spent 140dhs on a bonnet strut on the Audi lol. (Never mind the stealthy Tuning upgrades hehe) And they fitted it for me whilst I waited, classic, in my sadistic mind thats pay back for the weeks I went without the car whilst they argued the warranty claims! Ok rant over ........
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This thing is driving particularly bad today, I just reset the throttle body using the loren/thomas procedure. And totally different car to drive again. Despite no codes and the potentiometer reading of the throttle body looking OK I am suspicious of the whiney noise and the fact it now dipping throttle coming back to idle when you slow to a stop. I've tried to buy a new one but Bosch here won't get anything until March omg. Thomas can you see if there is one avaliable near you and I will bank transfer you the euros. Thanks
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Bought ngk iridium BRK7EIX fitting tonight!
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Bought ngk iridium BRK7EIX fitting tonight!
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Welcome. Which codes do you speak off Ely? The combination sensor is a lateral and axial acceleration sensor mounted under the centre console cup holders I think. Shift problems at lower temps sounds more like a temp sensor or valve body issue maybe the old oil is too viscous at that low temp to flow and function the gear shifts properly automatically? Couple of obvious things is your battery in good condition (colder weather will reduce electron flow) and is the transmission serviced well, fluid and filter changed recently?
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https://vanos-bmw.com/membrane-94810513107-porsche-cayenne-45l-450ps I would think if only one tab is broke it will still fit fine. Worst case a smear of gasket sealer on that edge and snap it shut. To replace it requires the whole valve cover to be changed which is joke and not exactly a 5 min job either with other gaskets required too.
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I would say that it is almost certain the diaphragm is split. There is a fudge Fix for this until you get a new one. It involves using a rubber glove cut to a rough circle slightly larger diameter ,1" large than the diaphragm. You then wrap it over the orange diaphragm and snap the black cover into place.
