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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. RFM
    Mijostyn's post made a good point regarding the use of PIWIS, only the explanation regarding the communication between the control boxes/gateway via fiber optic cable is not entirely correct, he probably meant canbus, fiber optic is associated with audio.
  2. RFM
    Hard to tell with any certainty, not usually but it can be. It's a small effort to check the connector, just follow the wiring comming from the pump units.
  3. RFM
    Check the fuel pumps main connector under the car floor, at the level and behind the left wheel arch. There are some overheating problems inside the connector by malfunctioning fuel pumps.
  4. RFM
    This is worth a try.
  5. RFM
    Is it not stamped somewhere on de assy, which you have purchased, in relation to the recycling legislation?
  6. RFM
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/?hl=%2Bwhistling+%2Bnoise#entry183929 http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/15730-whats-the-vent-inside-our-gas-filler-door/?hl=%2Bwhistling+%2Bnoise#entry78365 http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/20768-noise-from-inside-of-left-fender/?hl=%2Bwhistling+%2Bnoise Read this it might help.
  7. RFM
    You have to push and keep the colored ring close to the fitting, than pull out the plastic hose. It is a help if you have some lubricant between the hose and the ring/fitting. There exist a small bauble of tool, a kind of fork, to make it easier.
  8. RFM
    As Always, error codes are required. Let the car scan and quote the codes here on the forum so members can help more targeted, as indicated it could be anything. Guesswork is not recommended and rarely produces some positive results.
  9. RFM
    You can see and feel if the spring moves smooth, or jumps with shock at left-right steering wheel movements. The condition of bearing is indeed difficult to assess without removing and dismantling the strut.
  10. RFM
    Sounds like the trembling of the suspension spring, is the top bearing of the strut still intact?
  11. RFM
    I would suggest to delete all error codes, perform a long testdrive and recheck back on error codes. Those who remain or reappear are eligible for further research, too much and too old codes lead to a chaotic situation.
  12. RFM
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45244-window-drop-passenger-side/?hl=%2Bwindow+%2Bregulator Is this what you're looking for?
  13. RFM
    This is a normal phenomenon, after a certain time of use there are deposits on the spot where the arc flash is standing. This is applicable to all xenon lamps after time.
  14. RFM
    Remove the most rear part of the headliner, this with the light, the rubber hose of the washer is visible using a flashlight and possibly a mirror, probably the hose is jumped from the nosle or the intermediate part. With a fine nose pliers you can get it there again, if the hose is not torn up or stretched open on the connection section. Take a good look if there is no water damage to any existing electronic control boxes.
  15. RFM
    Disconnect the ground, under the carpet, in front of the drivers seat for 10 minutes, reconnect, clear the codes and try again. If the result remains the same, have the battery load tested. A battery which has been dead for about two months promised not much good.
  16. RFM
    If your car is a Tiptronic, check out the possibility of coolant infiltration, through the ATF cooler, in to the gearbox. This does not happen very often but still possible.
  17. RFM
    As the center console is removed, remove the nut on the handbrake cable clamping device and remove the entirity from the handbrake mechanism. Remove the four nuts holding the handbrake mechanism on the bottom plate, the carpet can stay in place.
  18. RFM
    Indeed, but i think there is no difference between LHD and RHD for this item, the placement of the respective AC hard ware components are independent of where the steering wheel is located.
  19. RFM
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46796-ac-metal-line-tube-replacement/ Are you helped with this?
  20. RFM
    Go back to the workshop and let them fix the oil leak is the best solution, anyway the thin 0W-40 oil is certainly not the cause of the problem. Since recently not well executed work on the IMS/RMS sheds more cleary light on the matter. It is important facts such as earlier interventions, etc. to mention, it makes help by forum members easier, more targeted and more accurate. I hope you got rid of the problem soon.
  21. RFM
    The V6 is originally a VAG engine, VAG (Audi- VW) is commercially connected with Castrol and recommends of course Castrol 5W-30 Longlife for his products, Porsche however is connected with Mobil and recommends Mobil1 0W-40, which is conform to the specified service intervals. If you use the recommended Mobil are you, at least according to Porsche, safe.
  22. RFM
    Therefor the RMS does not leak or malfunction, any oil seal which is completely covered in oil will leak after a longer period of time. Only with the car in a horizontal position and correct oil level, the seal should not leak, note that for a moment and then decide.
  23. RFM
    Only the VIN# can tell for sure if the car is an 06 or an 08, the 08 should use a DFI engine, if i remember correctly.
  24. RFM
    The oil comes from the RMS, ceated by the (extreme?) angle of inclination, forward or backward, of the car during a large period of time. It has the same effect as an excessively large amount of oil in the engine, kind of overfilling.
  25. RFM
    Looks nice, good luck with it and a lot of carefree miles.
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