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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    As you need a PIWIS to do the clutch oil, it would require a dealer or very well equipped indie.
  2. JFP in PA
    Usually the best source for the Gibbs oil is on line, it pops up on sale from a number of vendors who also throw in free shipping. Check out the usual suspects: Amazon, Jegs, etc.
  3. JFP in PA
    M1 0W-40 is simply not the product that it once was. If I were you, I would take a very close looks at Joe Gibbs DT40, which is a 5W-40 with good ZDDP levels and excellent film strength. We are also not fans of Fram filters either for the same reasons; they are not as well made as they once were. I would take a look at the XP version of the NAPA filter, very well made, and readily available
  4. JFP in PA
    We have actually seen repeatable improvement in UOA's on cars going to the 160 stat along with the lower oil temps, demonstrating that the oil is happier running cooler. On base Boxsters, the combination of the 160 stat and larger "S" oil cooler showed significant improvements in oil life.
  5. JFP in PA
    You sure the sound isn't coming from the three way cat?
  6. JFP in PA
    Typically, we see 25-30F drop in oil temps with the low temp stats
  7. JFP in PA
    Just remember that the thermostat sets the minimum temperature the car will see in a steady state (read moving at reasonable speeds on the open road). Stuck in traffic, the car will slowly heat up from the steady state temps (usually around the low 170's F) to the temps where the fan kicks in, but will also cool back down to the steady state temps when the car gets moving again.
  8. JFP in PA
    It is always a good idea to include the year, model, and any modifications in such questions. And as you have retrieved codes, the exact codes would be useful as well.
  9. JFP in PA
    You have codes of overly rich conditions on both banks (1123 and 1125), and a code for the O2 sensor ahead of the main cat on the bank for cylinders 4-6 (P0150) either being short circuited or having lower than expected voltage. I would start with the P0150 code and check the harness and the sensor itself for a short, and the short could be the sensor itself.
  10. JFP in PA
    If you measure the line flare, you can actually get little rubber caps for a few cents each that are supposed to be for capping off unused vacuum lines that look neat and do an excellent job as well: But a screw in a hunk of rubber hose also does the same job....................
  11. JFP in PA
    We don't like to push hard objects like golf tees into the hard lines as they have unusual flare ends and you really do not want to deform them. Something soft, like hose, slipped over the line end is a better bet.............
  12. JFP in PA
    Yes, but they do not have to be fancy, just some correctly sized black rubber hose with a screw in one end to stop the leak. You need to prevent the system draining and air getting back up into the ABS/PSM control network, as this then needs the scanner to activate systems during a flush to get it back out. A little fore thought and some fifty cent fabricated plugs/caps will prevent major headaches.
  13. JFP in PA
    You are heading for a major headache. If you allow the brake system to drain of fluid, you will need a Porsche specific scan tool to get everything working again. You would be far better off to do one rubber line at a time, disconnecting and replacing with the braided lines. Once done, the entire system will need to be flushed to get the air out. If you are going to remove the calipers from the car, plan on fabricating some plugged rubber hose bits to cap off the car's hard line's while it is apart for the same reason.
  14. JFP in PA
    The Durametric system would be a good acquisition. The 986 and 987 similar in many ways, but the 987 will have some later variations, like greater use of CAN Bus technology, DFI, the 9A1 engine instead of the M96, and later electronics. The reason for a lack of information is that Porsche stopped publishing service manuals around 2004-2005, so there is not a lot in print. Good luck with your new car.
  15. JFP in PA
    Yup.
  16. JFP in PA
    It will. I'd suggest ordering a replacement.
  17. JFP in PA
    Trying to patch these things is false economy. With them being the pain in the butt to get out, it makes no sense to even try to fix a damaged unit.
  18. JFP in PA
    Opening multiple thread on the same topic is never a good idea as it dilutes your efforts. Stick to one thread.
  19. JFP in PA
    But every once in a while, you will find the exception that has to look at absolutely everything, and the problems start.
  20. JFP in PA
    He does that in California, he will run afoul of the state emission police They not only check for system function, they also look for "non factory" modifications, like plugged lines or capped off ports.
  21. JFP in PA
    You seem to have multiple senor faults that are electrical in nature. Time to start checking the harness for damage or a loose connector.
  22. JFP in PA
    Loren is suggesting that you need to check for continuity and/or resistance in the circuit. Wires often look or feel fine, but when checked with a multi meter, there is no continuity (read a break in the wire internally), or there is high resistance (typically internal corrosion in the wire). Either will keep the horn from sounding.
  23. JFP in PA
    If there is one thing I've learned over the years of working on these cars, it is not to assume anything. I would focus on the cam sensor issue as suggested, and see what happens after it is solved.
  24. JFP in PA
    +1 I was typing the same thing, but Duncan was quicker!
  25. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech The brake warning light has multiple functions; worn pads, low fluid, emergency brake engaged, etc. As you just changed the pads, I'd start with the new sensors; one simply may not be plugged in all the way.
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