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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Yet very few people even realize that and think his gouging them. You might also look at RND Engines, which is a separate company but the letters stand for "Raby Navarro Development". They do replacement M96 and 97 engines with just the weak stuff addressed (Nickies, IMS, etc.), but no trick rods, pistons, etc. Theses are turnkey engines sold on a core exchange basis, and are much cheaper than a one-off Raby unit.
  2. The unfortunate answer is "Yes". Before pulling the car apart, however, I would flush the clutch hydraulics, just to make sure the problem is not that the valet got the clutch hot and cause a moisture induced bubble in the hydraulic system. If that does not work, you are in for a clutch job; an excellent time to update the RMS, IMS, and AOS while the car is apart. And then stop using valet parking :eek:
  3. Correct, to be precise, I use a torque angle meter (I have a digital unit, but you can get a mechanical unit off Amazon for around $14):
  4. Let's start with bolts; I would not reuse any of them as many are single use torque plus stretch type (rotational angle). Go with all ARP replacements or new OEM. And yes, the bolt expense is all part of how this engine works. All of the crank carrier bolts need to be lubricated (I prefer ARP lube). First torque is to 15 ft. lb.; followed by 90 degrees. Once the crank is installed, axial end play should be 0.05 to 0.24 MM. When the rods are installed, again lube the fasteners, then torque to 15 ft. lb., plus 90 degrees. There are two thrust bearings on the crank, one goes in cap #1 (belt end), the other in cap #7 (flywheel end). When installing the bearing shells into the carrier, be sure to lubricate them. I prefer Joe Gibbs assembly lube, but anything similar will work. Have fun...............
  5. The IMS shaft chain sprocket is pressed on, and have actually been known to slip on the shaft. I would have someone with experience check your shaft and sprocket to see if they can still be used, and if they can, I would highly recommend having the sprocket pinned to the shaft to prevent it from ever moving unintentionally. A replacement shaft is going to be an issue. You will need to find a serviceable used one and get it pinned as discussed above. Replacement shafts from Porsche are all going to be the non serviceable over sized third design IMS bearing, and would include the bearing, which is why they are so expensive. Yes, an "off the shelf" adjustable ring compressor will work, but your larger issue is going to be how you are going to get the wrist pin locks back into place as it requires a special tool and forces you to work through a small opening, a process that has been likened to building a ship in a bottle. With the shaft out of the engine, you can install the LN bearing using a bearing press, but if the shaft has the old bearing still in it, you are going to need the pulling tool to get it out before you can install the LN.
  6. That is what we are here for. Never hurts to do a search.
  7. That has always been one of the $64 questions. Jake has been working on his own book on the subject, but I do not know where that stands. Besides torque specs, you will also need clearance ranges for the bearings, ring end gaps, end play for the crank, side clearance for the rods, and on and on. Most people that assemble their own end up winging it based upon torque spec ranges for similar sized bolts, and/or other general "rules of thumb". Shops that work on the engines find what works, and keep it to themselves.
  8. Contrary to popular opinion, the factory 996 service manuals do not have a section on complete disassembly / reassembly of the engine. Porsche has never intended for dealer techs to get that far into these engines, so they never published anything on the subject, including the correct torque specs. In fact, Porsche has not published anything on the subject since the 993 air cooled cars.
  9. Without the code(s), anything would be a guess.
  10. I do have a P1126 error. I understand that the most likely reason for the error is intake air system leaking, but before I get into a smoke test (that I can't do by myself), I would replace the MAF, if it has reached the mile replacement interval. That was the reason for my question. I have Durametric, if this can be used for checking the MAF and/or troubleshooting the P1126 error. Thanks There really is no prescribed mileage service interval for the MAF; they are a lot like light bulbs and either work or do not. As Ahsai noted, if there is no MAF specific codes, just keep it clean and don't worry about it; it will let you know when it is time.
  11. Not a problem, with a five hour lead, you are up before I am!
  12. I'd suggest doing a search both here and elsewhere on the internet for the sensors, a quick Google search turned them up for as little as $50 each, but you need to be able to ship them into Canada. And I would not worry about them being Porsche brand either, Porsche does not make them, they buy them and mark them up like everything else they sell.
  13. The airbag codes can only be cleared by Porsche specific diagnostic tools such as the Durametric system after the problem is fixed. Yes, you will lose some things like clock settings, radio presets, window drop on cabriolets, etc. which will need to be relearned.
  14. Unfortunately, Porsche stopped publishing these manuals around 2004. When there were published, they were also pricey, around $2K. This information is now only available via Porsche's electronic technical subscription service, TSI. On your car, the controller should be underneath the forward section of your center console, ahead of the shifter and under the dash, if memory serves.
  15. Code 80BA indicates a software error in the air bag control unit. Often, this ends up with the unit being replaced. OBD II codes and their meanings were traditionally covered in a separate publication (OBD II Manual) with Porsches.
  16. Battery life for the sensors is environment related, so I would normally expect around 4-6 years on your car. While driving the car with dead sensors will not really harm anything, in many US states they are required to function at inspection time as they are a federally mandated safety item. 433 MHz is correct, but I would do some online shopping as several posters have done much better on pricing from other sources.
  17. Somehow, I rather doubt it as race cars tend to leave out a lot of the niceties required for the street to save weight, like the passenger's seat and emissions gear:
  18. Being a shop, we obviously see both a lot of different cars as well as makes. Finding a car (or truck) with a correct reading speedometer is the exception rather than the rule. Most are off 3-5 MPH high.
  19. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The crank position sensors in these cars are famous for causing warm or hot start issues without throwing any codes. I'd would definitely take a look at yours.
  20. I think the problem is not with Durametric, but with the Porsche software not allowing an early reset, which I am sure is by design. We usually only see cars with the service reminders already on and reset them after service, so I can honestly say that I have not tried to reset a reminder that was not yet triggered. I also completely forgot about the diesel, which is different.
  21. To get at the stops and bellow, you are going to need to remove and disassemble the strut, and with those miles, it would be a good time for new ones. The M030 units will lower the car slightly, and give it a firmer ride as well as improve the handling somewhat. Just adding new struts in place of your worn units will also firm up and improve the handling as well, but not to the level of the M030. So it would come down to a question of do you really need the extra firmness and handling at as somewhat higher price for the parts. By far, most of my customers tend to stay with the non M030 struts, but it is a matter of personal choice.
  22. Two methods, a 55 gallon drum of Bondo; or you cut off the quarter panel, straighten any frame and or suspension damage, and weld on a new quarter.
  23. Interesting. As most people would not think of that approach, can you post more information on how you extracted the information, or did you swap chips?
  24. That is going possible only if the old module can be "read" by a PIWIS system, or you have all of the correct key codes for programing. Quite often, the old module is stone dead and won't read, and the key codes a long gone.
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