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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Yes, at WOT the engine is inhaling all the air it can get, and the fuel system has to deliver enough fuel to keep it happy, if it does not, the engine leans out and starts to miss. I would also look at the MAF values both at idle, part throttle and WOT.
  2. If the system can record fuel trim data, try making a pass in the car with it recording and then look to see if the fuel trims drop off lean when the misfire occurs. if it does, the car is basically running out of gas at high revs, which would probably be a fuel delivery issue (pump, pressure regulator).
  3. While the crank position sensor might not code, the car would not even start if it was bad. The cam sensors would throw codes. I would still suggest checking fuel pressure and delivery just to be on the safe side. If you could get access to the Durametric software on a laptop, you could record real time data while actually driving the car, which could throw some more light on what exactly is happening when the car starts to miss, including the fuel trims.
  4. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: OK, let's start with a couple of "obvious" places to start: How old are the coil packs and have you checked them all to make sure the connectors are properly seated? If the shop that worked on the car was dense enough to not torque the plugs, you can pretty much bet they did not properly check the coil connections. Look at the coil packs and check them for signs of cracking, while completely normal, it a sign they are getting old and need to be replaced. If the car was in my shop, I would be bore scoping the cylinder where the plug electrodes were missing as they had to go somewhere. Same thing applies to the current cylinders that are misfiring. I would also be running a compression test at a minimum, preferably a leak down on the same cylinders, just to make sure these is nothing physically wrong with them. I would also be checking the fuel pressure and delivery rate, just to be sure that the system is not leaning out at higher revs. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
  5. It always helps to have the year and model of the car. If the clutch slips at all, it is not normal behavior. Does your clutch pedal seem high and unusually stiff?
  6. I'm not a big fan of swapping parts out without knowing why; I prefer to do one at a time, particularly when parts like that bleeder valve retail for nearly $100. But I have the benefit of a shop with spare parts about for most things. That said, it would depend upon how much the extra parts cost, and how much you value your time (not having to address the same problem twice).
  7. Correct, but most DIY'ers really cannot justify the nearly $1K price for a smoke generator, which leaves them the "hands on" approach.
  8. Depends on which side of the valve vacuum is being applied. Normally, when these fail, they are either stuck open, stuck closed, or won't hold vacuum.
  9. This is one for the Boxster, but the basic components are pretty much the same:
  10. That would be a good starting point, but I would also look at all the flex lines as we often find small cracks in them as well.
  11. You are not going to be able address this issue with the Durametric system, you are going to need to be looking at the EVAP system flex lines for cracks or breaks, and removing and testing the components for their integrity under vacuum. Good old fashion hands on diagnostics for this one.
  12. Gas cap issues rarely throw this code, it is more often a small leak somewhere is the fuel tank ventilation system (EVAP system, EVAP purge system, shut off valve, EVAP system lines, etc.).
  13. It is a valve that allows air to flow depending upon the vacuum conditions in the system.
  14. +1 on checking the grounds. Weak grounds are a source of unending headaches.
  15. Yes, go back to everything on that side that you unplugged while working, and check the connections, one may have worked itself loose.
  16. Your question intrigued me as I have never done a filter regeneration on a Cayenne, so I went searching and found two items on the subject; the first is an electronic version of the owner's manual for the vehicle which has some notes on the subject: http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/2014-cayenne/10/265-22279/Diesel-Diesel-engine-Diesel-particulate-filter The second is a video of one in progress which shows the use of the Porsche diagnostic system initiating the process: https://youtu.be/VJQwHsstvDE So the dealers can do it. I am not aware of a function in Durametric for this, so you might want to drop them a line an inquire if it can.
  17. The correct output voltage should be 13.5-14.5V at idle (checked using a digital multimeter, not the dash display). If all the primary cables pass voltage drop, and there are no problems with the car's grounds (resistance), there has to be a problem with the alternator itself (diode) or the voltage regulator inside the alternator. You've basically run out of other possibilities.
  18. You may be experiencing a dying voltage regulator (inside the alternator, but can be replaced).
  19. What kind of voltage drop do you get on the starter cables?
  20. Do a voltage drop test across your primary battery/starter cables. These cars are well known for having resistance build up in the cables which otherwise look fine, and need to be replaced. Porsche has released new cables designed to eliminate this issue.
  21. We have multiple customers still on their factory clutches in excess of 150K, and even a handful over 200K. As Loren noted, it is not the clutch that determines its life expectancy, it is the driver.
  22. More often than not, cold weather shifting effort problems are the result of the wrong gear oil rather than the shifter. We have installed a lot of short shifters, mostly B&M, and as some of the cars are used daily in zero and sub zero ambient temperatures without any shifting issues, while others have had poor cold weather shifting even with the stock shifter when using aftermarket gear oils which were completely remedied by going back to the factory fill, it is difficult to blame the shifters.
  23. Well, as you have posted on other websites that the fuse does not blow when the replacement central locking system/alarm controller is unplugged, I'd start with that.
  24. Could be Mike, it's not blowing the fuse anymore, I did spray some contact cleaner on the fuse contacts. I hope I didn't do any damage though, my windows are both stuck in the down position. I know you're very knowledgeable about these cars. I read your write up about installing a new top which I'm in the process of doing. I replied to this post because I was having the same issue as the original poster, just 3 years later. If memory serves, there are only a couple of things on the fuse circuit, like the windows, interior lights, and the alarm system. If your windows are acting up, I'd start there, but I would also check the central locking and alarm box under the seat, it often gets wet and causes no end of issues.
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