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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. P0336 indicates an open circuit for the crank position sensor, so yes, you need a new one.
  2. That is the one I would have expected as well, but the trans should only hold a tad over 3L, so something has to be different.
  3. The car should only take around 3 liters. Does your gearbox look like this (two fill plugs marked in green)? If it does, you are supposed to be filling through the one to the right (the lower one) in this picture:
  4. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing. It's for a wifi transmitter for a back-up camera. Currently it's attached the reverse bulb, which works fine but the wifi takes too long to be useful. I need to wire it up to switched power for a more instant on effect. Thanks for your help. Year and model of the car? 2003 Porsche 996 Cabriolet Underneath the rear package shelf, there are multiple electronic modules that switch on with the key, you can probably tap into one of them, just make sure the new unit you are adding does not overload the fuse on that circuit, and also has an inline fuse of its own.
  5. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing. It's for a wifi transmitter for a back-up camera. Currently it's attached the reverse bulb, which works fine but the wifi takes too long to be useful. I need to wire it up to switched power for a more instant on effect. Thanks for your help. Year and model of the car?
  6. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing.
  7. You must have an interesting way of draining the car as most can only get about 85% of the contents out without considerable effort. And as the Evans literature say that residual water will break down their coolant, that presents an issue. As you sound like yours is a turbo car, I can say that I cringe at the use of more glue to repair a well known issue of glued in fitting failures on these cars. We pull the engines and replace all of the factory fittings with new weld in replacements, which are permanent fixes. Some shops also have used pinning kits the mechanically lock in the fittings, by we prefer to make them permanent. Gluing them back in and using a wonder coolant is not the accepted answer, particularly when most tracks here will not allow one of these cars out on track unless the fittings have been either pinned or welded; and many also now do not allow cars on the track that have anything but water in them for safety reasons.
  8. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: This product has never made any sense to me. In order to use it, you have to drain the existing coolant, then run multiple flushes with a special liquid designed to remove all traces of remaining water based coolant, followed by blowing air through the system to fully dry it. Then you charge the system with some very expensive (~$45/gallon) waterless coolant. By the time you are done with all this, between shop labor and parts you have spent nearly as much as several normal coolant drains, flushes and refills; which probably more than the car would normally see in its lifetime. Add to that, on fully aftermarket instrumented cars, we have seen very little, if any, cooling improvements. This product continues to look more like a solution in search of a problem. In the shop, the most common coolant related question we get is "What can I top my system up with?". This is because of the Porsche's propensity to leak coolant due to failing water pumps, surge tank. issues, bad caps, etc. These problems do not go away with waterless coolant, so every time you need to open up the system to fix it, you have to drain and catch the magic coolant, and then filter it before refilling the system, or you spend even more money on additional waterless coolant. Seems like a lot of excessive effort and costs with no discernible benefit.
  9. Electrical contact cleaner seems to work the best, and some have had good luck with MAF cleaner as well.
  10. Here is the flywheel side view of the oversized IMS, waiting to have its rear seal removed, there is plenty of room to get at it: All OEM IMS bearings have inner and outer seals to retain the grease they were packed with. As most have already had the grease washed away, you simply pop the rear seal off to allow access for engine oil. All cars built after 2006 (until 2009) carry this style bearing, as do many of the 2005 cars. There is no way of telling in the 2005 cars which bearing is in the engine, you have to take it apart and look.
  11. The green has not been made for several years. The pink version is fully compatible however. I would also recommend that because your coolant is now pretty old, it is a good time for a complete flush and replacement.
  12. As parts vary in different locations around the globe, I would suggest having a dealer run your VIN to make sure which parts actually belong in the vehicle.
  13. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: When you had the vehicle connected to the Porsche diagnostic tool, did you try recoding the module to the car just to make sure it just didn't "get lost" in the communications system? That module is about 450 Euros or so, so I would really want to make sure it is defective before replacing it.
  14. The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure. How many IMS bearings, with the seal in-place, failures are you aware of (997's with large bearing)? Only a couple, but both were definitely an IMS failure.
  15. First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do not be so sure the relay is failing, recheck the fuses first. If your car is killing relays, it most likely has a dead short in the horn system which you will need to trace.
  16. Clutch wear comes from a variety of factors; driving style, driving environment, abuse level, and the components themselves (which are not all the same). We have customers with matching cars, one of which goes through a clutch in about 40K miles, the other just had his IMS done at 90K and his clutch looked like it had miles to go. Couple of months back, we had an early Boxster in with an RMS oil leak at 237K, except for the oil all over everything, the clutch looked pretty good. We replaced it anyway due to the oil, but some of them just seem to hang on forever.
  17. You are correct; you cannot see the IMS from the sump. The trans, clutch and flywheel have to be removed.
  18. That entire idea is more than a little scary............particularly when the bearing you would be replacing is one of the least troublesome, and its replacement is a complete unknown.
  19. If your radiators are clean, and you coolant fresh (if you don't test it, it should be changed about every 5 years), you should not need any of these "magic bullets" advertised. Most are little more than a corrosion inhibitor and a surfactant, both of which are already present in your present coolant. And based upon Porsche coolant propensity to "not play nice" with other coolants, you really don't want to spend money on something you really don't need but that creates problems.
  20. P1126 is telling you that one cylinder bank (cylinders 4-6) is running very lean. Most common issue is a vacuum leak on that side.
  21. Normally, P0430 is a code that indicates a failing three way cat. That said, diagnostics protocol on a P0430 code is to address and rectify any other active codes first, then reset the system and see if the P0430 returns. This is done because other faults can trigger the cat fault, and because cats are bloody expensive to be replacing without good reason. In your case, I would go back to the cause of the P0455 code first. As they have already replaced the vapor canister and two vales, there are still other connections, hoses, and valves in this system that could still be leaking (the code is for a gross vacuum leak in a complicated system):
  22. Excellent news, both for the car owner and independent shops. Some dealers have been scaring the Hell out of car owners about their warranty for years over parts sourcing and who is "authorized" to work on one of their cars.
  23. As Porsche's are equipped with performance "summer tires", we normally recommend against driving the cars on dry roads at temps below 40 F, simply because the tires have little to no grip on dry pavement in the cold. If you are going to be using the car in snow and obviously lower temps, you need a second set of wheels and tires.
  24. Wear on the pressure plate finger pivots and a decrease in the disc thickness lead to a harder pedal.
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