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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Try this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/64-manual-transmission-oil-change-instructions/
  2. I'll do my research to make sure i have the right tools and know the location of the fill and drain plugs. I want to get lots of miles of this vehicle, definilty going to be on top of the maintenance. Do you know which fuild is the correct one, I found two at suncoast. 1. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/00004320420L.html?Category_Code=997_Carrera_S_G2_Enginetran 2. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99991754600.html?Category_Code=997_Carrera_S_G2_Enginetran thank you! Suggestion, try Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR; board sponsor and one of the lowest OEM parts prices you will find.
  3. According the Porsche, "approx.. 3.1 quarts / 2.9 liters transmission oil". That said, we use only Porsche supplied fluids in these gearboxes. People have tried a lot of different brands, and many have encountered noise and poor shifting as the result, eventually going back to the Porsche supplied lube
  4. The codes you are throwing P0130 and P0150 are both short circuit codes, indicating a problem in the wiring for the sensors. Nearly every time we get a car in with universal sensors throwing these codes, it has to do with the way the wiring was connected to make the aftermarket sensors fit and work. At this juncture, you need to start tracing the sensor harnesses and checking each of the individual sensor leads for a short or break using a multimeter. I would also can the harness looking for any damage (burnt by heat, abraded, insulation cut, etc.)
  5. Year and model would always be helpful.
  6. I'm away from the shop at the moment, but 20PSIG seem a tad high for the cap to "pop"; if memory serves, it should release at just over 18PSIG. While this small difference could just be differences in test equipment calibration, the larger question is why does the car hit the venting pressure, which is not a normal occurrence. If you are absolutely sure that the car is holding 20 PSIG, I would start looking at two things: Leak down values, and the evidence of combustion gas in the cooling system (requires a specialized test kit):
  7. Not really, like their sister companies VW & Audi, you will find parts from the US, Poland, Japan, and just about everywhere else worth mentioning. Just a normal day in 21st century auto manufacturing.
  8. Porsche sources parts from all over the world.
  9. Both codes can also be caused by wiring problems, and as you used "universal" fit sensors, I would start there. I would also have to say that we never use this type of sensor in the shop both because of the probability of having this type of issue, and because the correct fit units do not cost that much more.
  10. Correct, but take a lesson from another recent poster here that had a 2004 996 C4S which should have been a smaller and replaceable IMS bearing, so he went out and purchased everything he needed to do the IMS swap, including the LN bearing kit. But when he took the car apart, he found the oversized non serviceable design bearing in the engine, because the engine was a factory replacement (bore an engine number with "AT" in it, which stands for "Austauschmotor" or replacement engine in German), leaving him stuck with the expensive LN kit, and the car all apart: When you are looking at these cars, particularly with the intent of buying one specifically to do an IMS retrofit, you really need to understand what you are looking at or you can make an expensive mistake. In the case of an 05 car, if it still has the original engine in it, it could still go either way, and you need to pull it apart to find out what you are dealing with.
  11. 2005 was the transitional year, some engines carried the smaller diameter single row bearing, others the non serviceable large diameter bearing. Unfortunately, there is no way of knowing which one is in a given engine without taking it apart and looking as all of the so-called methods (build date, engine numbers, VIN's, etc.) have proven to be unreliable by direct experience. All 2006 cars will carry the non serviceable large bearing, as will any factory replacement engines, which will have either "AT" or "X" in their engine numbers.
  12. The part numbers I listed are what are in the Porsche system as replacements for the car you described. They also list a new complete transaxle assembly (722-270-060-0), which retails for a tick under $17K.
  13. It is sometimes amazing how few "professionals" do not know that these systems can go to sleep on you.
  14. Two are listed, 996-300-020-07, and 996-300-020-37.
  15. You are going to find some fine ferrous material on the plug with every oil change, that is not at all unusual. It is also not unusual for the first change after installing the magnetic plug to have a bit more than normal as it is trying to clean up what was already built up in the engine. We see similar results when people switch over to the spin on and use a Filter Mag, the first oil change build up is always the worst:
  16. That is what we are here for. Glad you got it sorted out, now go enjoy the car.
  17. Because the chains are running somewhat slack, the cam timing (read cam deviation values) are probably well off at the moment, which will cause the engine to run poorly.
  18. It is the tensioners, it would have been a good idea to pre fill them by pumping them up in a container of oil before reinstalling them, but they will pump up in the engine after it runs for a bit. Just don't drive the car or rev the engine until it settles down.
  19. Porsche's comment has to do with the type and amount of anti seize used; some have insulating properties. At the shop, we use anti seize (a small dab) on every plug we install, and have done so for many, many years; and we have never had a plug misfire because of it, or gall the cylinder heads when removed. That said, we have also seen plugs without anti seize that were left in the engine for a lot of miles come out of the cylinder heads with the alloy threads still attached. Your comment about washing the compound off also intrigues me, how did you remove the compound in the cylinder head plug holes? Because if you did not remove it, you still had anti seize on the cylinder head threads, just less of it.......
  20. Mike Focke complied a useful list of sources on his website: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages
  21. Selling the car as a "roller" is usually a losing proposition and should only be the choice of desperation. You are going to have to spend some money on a replacement from a wreck, but it is usually the lowest cost pathway to getting the car back on the road. Shop around for a good used engine in your area, and figure another 2-3K to get it back in one piece.
  22. Not that I'm aware of; we go off UOA's from customer's cars, and they look very good, particularly its ability to stay in grade and retain a high level of ZDDP over miles. We have also had good feed back from customer's concerning quieter starts with the second generation of the DT40 on cars that had been noisy on other oils. I do know from other postings that Jake and his crew put a lot of time and effort into its development and subsequent improvement.
  23. So no reason to do preventative maintenance before one of the sensor codes? I've always understood that as the "pre" sensor wears out, the mixture starts richening up and fuel efficiency declines.. Just trying to stay ahead of the curve. We have seen some O2 sensors fail in 25K miles, and others still be running fine at 250K miles, so I have no idea what a "preemptive" sweet spot should be. And long before you would see a measurable mileage change, the car will code; the system is designed to behave that way. Besides which, O2 sensors are anything but cheap.
  24. When the vehicle codes, indicating that the sensor is failing,
  25. While there are many fine oils on the market, you will be fine with the DT40, it is the only oil on the market that was specifically developed around the M96/97 engine platforms.
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