JFP in PA

Good to know and I'll ask them to make sure they replace that filter as well. Thank you for this. You don't think this would be the problem do you? Without seeing the filter out of the car, it is hard to tell; but clogged fuel filters can and will act like a dying fuel pump at times.

An additional thought: A 2004 996 Turbo has an external fuel filter (part # 996-110-253-52); when was the last time yours was changed? I would also suggest that if you are going to replace the pump, put a new fuel filter on it as well.

Low fuel pressure or volume delivery will definitely make the car run soft.

This is why the should both be tested in tandem; a bad CPS would also give you no fuel pressure, but if you then jumper the fuel pump at the relay panel, the pump should run, even with a bad, or no CPS.

If they tested the fuel system and got low pressure and/or delivery, I'm afraid the answer would be yes.

Well, I'll be! JFP was right. The temp sensor checked out OK. The coolant reservoir sensor was the problem. The wire and connector were attached OK. But the sensor kind of goes into the bottom of the tank with a half turn. It had become dislodged from the tank and was just kind of hanging there. My guess is that when my mechanic installed the new tank last fall, he must not have securely screwed in the sensor and the pothole jolt was enough for it to finally come loose. I'm surprised it didn't fail sooner. Thanks everyone for the assistance and especially to JFP who was right on the money about where to look. Managed to swap out my air filter while I was checking the temp sensor, so double plus good. Warm weather coming soon! :) Best. There are only a few things that it could be; glad you got it sorted. :thumbup:

The purge valve is under the intake manifold runners, as noted earlier in this tread. Item #20 in this diagram:

Problem usually isn't with the factory oil coatings, but rather with the amount of oil put on the filters when they are first cleaned by the owenrs. Done right, they should not cause problems.

Any decent aftermarket car stereo shop should be able to point you at multiple choices that fit. You can also look up the Crutchfield audio site where you can type in what car you have and the site will list various options that are known to fit without modifications, as well as other options that require some specific modifications to fit, as well as retail prices.

If possible, I would recheck the car with a more current version of the system, Reason I say that is there was a rash of Chinese clones of the Durametric system, all of which were old versions (current is 6.5.0.7), and many of which were questionable to the point of actually damaging some cars. So unless you know the provenance of the system you used, I would recheck it just to be safe, and because if the code is real and live, the next moves will be more complicated and possibly expensive.

Thanx JFP, I think you mistyped that last sentence and I think you meant that if one actuator was a bit lazy, it would throw a code. It is not throwing any codes at all. This issues is the classic hesitation at around 2700-2800 RPM that various folks have complained about... I know of no one who replaced these actuators.... I was just thinking of a hail mary pass and was thinking of trying it. Thanx for the advice. Using the Durametric for this advanced stuff makes me nervous but I will give it a try when the weather improves here in Philly. Peace Bruce I don't see why you should ever be afraid of the Durametric Pro system; you are not altering anything, you are just reading data that the car is generating. I would also warm the car up fully before testing it by taking it for a 20 min. or so drive first.

If the code is real, basically all of the CAN Bus modules are off line. What type of diagnostic tool did you use to obtain it? What may be necessary is to reset all of the modules, which will require the use of a PIWIS system.

I would start by looking at the cam deviation values on both banks; as the VarioCam+ kicks in, the deviation values should both be moving in the same direction by approximately the same amount with climbing RPM. If the suspect bank is not following the opposite bank, the actuator's are probably on the way out. I would, however, expect the car to code if one actuator is problematic.

Just so I understand the terminology here… a. temp sensor: is that the sensor that i can find here in green? b. the " surge tank level sensor". is that the wire that goes to the bottom of the coolant reservoir in the rear trunk like this one noted in yellow here? From other places I've read that there is also the possibility that my "engine compartment blower" could be bad. (or one of the aforementioned sensors). Where is the location of the blower? Sorry for the noobie questions. Still learning. Thanks again. A. Yes. B. Yes. The engine compartment fan assembly is in the engine bay, adjacent to the vent on the passenger's (U.S. model) side. If you have access to the Durametric software, you can ask it to turn the fan on without the car running, and you should hear it.

A weak battery can play havoc with the CAN Bus network, so if you suspect yours, start there. If possible, load test the battery and replace it if it fails the test. The CAN bus has several modules that are in different places around the car, so checking connector is going to be time consuming. The entire network can be tested by the PIWIS system.

It would sound like your have a problem with one of the multiple modules on the CAN system that is not communicating. It would be something as banal as a loose connector, or it could be a module itself.

C112 is a communications error on the CAN bus network. I would clear it and see if it returns.

JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750: Thanks JFP, I have 20K miles on 2011 CS F/R pads are completely worn down but no brake pad wear light has come on yet. So if I understand right if they rear shoes are not worn and the car in in park with e brake off the rotors should come off easily? I read here a member said to make sure to have the car in neutral any reason for that? Thanks again! If there is no internal lip on the E-brake drum, it should come right off. I have no idea why you would need to put the car in neutral, as the car is basically electronically dead when it is not running and up on the lift when doing this. Perhaps you should address your question to that poster.

A lot of the Durametric problems with the Cayenne line has to do with the use of Siemens made DME's in those models, which apparently use a different diagnostic logic. From what I have read, VW diagnostic systems, which do not work on other Porsches, seem to do a better job with these cars.

+1 on RFM's comment. Porsche uses a coolant that is well known for "not playing well with others", so mixing in third party chemicals sometimes leading to gelation of the coolant that requires a time consuming and expensive removal process. Put the car up in the air, remove the lower cover panels and find out what is leaking; then fix it. "Stop Leak" compounds are a temporary band aid, not a repair.

They are a "wear" item, like a clutch or brakes.

The caliper bolts get loosened then the caliper slides on two steel rods (pins) (special tool T10439) to suspend the caliper while you remove and replace the pads. 2011 calipers.png Loren , so for the new style rotors on 2011-2014 Cayenne models do you just loosen the caliper bolt screws and just pull off onto pins? I was able to purchase the pins via snapon VW. I'm curious if I need to try to push brake pistons back some with screw driver to loosen pads before removing brake caliper? Normally, if you remove the caliper bolt and install the service pins, a quick "shake" back and forth is enough to push the pads back enough. If not, simply slide a thin tool like a scraper between the pad and rotor to push them back enough to remove the caliper.

JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750:

There are a multitude of reasons why one of these engines could be ticking; everything from lifter issues, to bad chain tensioners, and even the EVAP system purge valve under the intake manifold. You need to open up the engine bay, get an automotive stethoscope and start checking everything for noise source locations. There are no fast and easy ways to do this, you need to track down the source.

Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high — light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty — light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right Note The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously (1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)