JFP in PA

Et la même chose pour vous et les vôtres, plus meilleurs voeux pour la nouvelle année sécuritaire, sain et prospère! :cheers:

Here ya go, just put a bow on it and place it under your tree.............. And for a bit more "seasonal frivolity", here is a 1054HP race version Hans whipped up for Porsche's Indy and F1 development:

Hard to say without actually seeing the car. First of all, and off center steering wheel is a mechanical alignment adjustment that typically does not require replacing parts unless there are other underlying parts problems (e.g.: loose tie rod ends), which would also usually cause other noticeable problems like wheel shimmy or strange steering feel. I would suggest taking the car to another shop that specializes in Porsches and have them look at it; it is probably not a dangerous issue, but it should be investigated.

I bring a different perspective to the conversation because as a shop owner, I get to see and drive a lot of different cars on a regular basis. I'm also the guy the cars come to when things are not doing so well, and when the question of why things sometimes cost so much come up. So let me see if I can help shed any light on your question. Adding a real 30HP to a normally aspirated 996 will make a difference in how the car feels and performs if the modifications raise both the HP and Torque curves above the stock curves in a useful portion of the engine's RPM range. Unfortunately, in the aftermarket, that seems to rarely happen. Some modifications, replacement plenums and large throttle bodies come to mind, can actually lower the mid range torque and HP numbers somewhat, only adding real additional power over stock in the last few RPM's before the rev limiter kicks in. So if asked does this modification make more absolute power, the answer is yes, but the car does not show it in normal driving, and may actually feel a bit softer. And that can be a lot of money to spend for a small performance advantage in and RPM range that the engine spends very little time in. Modifications that only make power at the extremes of the RPM range maybe good perhaps for bragging rights, not so much for track lap times. Secondly, when asked what modifications we would suggest, we always start with the basics on the normally aspirated cars: Plan on building a solid foundation before you start trying to build HP. The normally aspirated M96 engine has a known Achilles heel: the IMS. Fortunately, there are excellent aftermarket fixes for this. So before spending a ton of cash on exhaust, intake, or DME modifications, update the IMS, add a spin on oil filter, and a magnetic drain plug and Filter Mag. Then you have a solid foundation to consider additional modifications to without having everything suddenly being reduced to a boat anchor. Lastly, the Turbos; are they worth the money? The answer has to be "YES!" in all capital letters. I have had the pleasure to drive every Turbo made, from the early 930 air cooled street cars, to the 935 slant nose RS and RSR, the 996 and 997, and even a handful of the 991's with the new 9A1 derived engines; and I can assure you that each new model has added to the legend of those that preceded them. A Mezger engine 996 Turbo is both a well balanced car and one with incredible potential. For the money it takes to make a claimed additional 30HP in a normally aspirated 996, you can take a 996 Turbo from being very impressive to down right scary across the entire RPM range; and do it knowing the factory engine will happily take it and ask for more.

Only problem is that while a failing battery or dying alternator will trigger the dash MIL's, the car noramlly would not code when that occurs, which the OP's vehicle has done.

OK, spent some time staring at wiring diagrams and here's were I think you are: The column stalk appears to have a set of contacts that send an electrical signal to the wiper motor, which then parks the arms. Unfortunately, that is not definitive as either the contacts or the motor could be the issue. I think you are going need to do some testing diagnostics on both to see how to proceed.

Not really sure what the issue is here. The intermittent function is built into the 986 relay (you can actually use a VW relay in its place and set the time length of the cycle), so after trying different relays, that obviously is not the problem. I'll look into the OEM service manuals tonight and see if they contain anything that may shed some light on the problem. It does sound like it could be the stalk assembly however.

There is no easy way to replace the base engine hard lines running through the tunnel and into the wheel wells with the larger diameter "S" versions; there are a lot of things in the way the will have to come out, plus all the coupling hose sections will need to be replaced as well. The front bumper, wheel well liners, and under trays must be removed to gain access, and some find it easier to move the AC condensers out of the way as well. That is why different people developed "adaptor's" either made from copper fittings or by modifying the existing hard lines to the larger hose size (Precision Chassis Works) to compensate for the larger rubber hoses. If you wanted to replace all of the hard lines, they do bolt right in once all the old ones are out, but it is an expensive and time consuming proposition. If you want to see a DIY tutorial done some years back on the subject, try this: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/radiator/

It could also be an electrical fault in the pump itself.

First thing, stop running or using the car. If you have access to a cylinder leak down tester, that would be a good place to start. A compression tester may also give you some data, but a leak down would be preferable. I would also pull the filter and look at the oil in the canister for signs of coolant. If you have coolant in the oil, DO NOT run the engine further. Coolant is Hell on bearings and machined surfaces. While the oil cooler can be the source of intermix issues, by far, most result from cracked cylinder heads.

First of all, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Pretty self explanatory, P1276 is an electrical fault involving the pump and control network for the PSM and ABS systems. Take a good look at the wiring around the PSM hydraulic unit, I think there is a TSB on moisture entering the harness connector at the PSM.

Weird. If you have checked and rechecked everything else, bleeding the system is both cheap and quick. That said, normally any amount of trapped air in the system would manifest itself as a spongy pedal rather than a "shimmy". I would also consider reexamining the front pads to see if one pad is making uneven contact with the rotor when slightly retracted.

I see nothing unusual in that video; the coolant in the tank appears to be expanding as it heats up - completely normal. Water vapor from the exhaust - again normal in cool or cold weather. If you had coolant entering the exhaust system, you would not be able to see the rear of the vehicle for the steam (a couple of drops of water makes gallons of steam). Porsche uses a MLS style head gasket that is actually stronger than the engine castings, which is why they never fail. Normally, when a Porsche starts leaking coolant into the combustion chambers, something has cracked.

I could sit here and guess all day long, but that would be exactly what your would have: guesses; unfortunately, you need to get the car up in the air and start looking. There are many places it could come from.

The sealant comes in a tube -- 000 043 300 39 -- US MSRP $28.96 According to Porsche's "book time" removing and replacing the oil pan (including gasket sealing) is 770 TU. 770 TU = about 7.70 hours. So it is a big job. +1. This is a job best done on a lift and involves removal of the front axle carrier, which is a normally done to get ready for an engine removal. Best left to the pro's.........

First thing to check is the tank cap. These are well known for losing their pressure rating and opening up to dump coolant. While the cap can be tested (has to hold a little over 18PSIG), they are not expensive, so that would be a good place to start and an easy DIY as well.

Loren's observation is correct, the Porsche system shows the updated 997 numbers. Perhaps Sunset is still playing catch up with their online listings.

Do you have the URL for Sunset handy?

You are a little too quick for me on that one................

Your car should be an M480 car (six speed manual), and if it is, the 997 numbers should be correct.

We see the same type of issues with these aftermarket kits, which is why we do not like them, along with the fact replacement parts are often non existent. We are also starting to see LED replacement kits with similar problems. Having multiple vehicles with factory HID/LED lights, it would now be nearly impossible to go back to halogen lights, particularly for rural or bad weather driving. Unfortunately, higher output bulbs are not the answer due to their tendency to discolor or even melt the lenses.

According to LN and Jake Raby, yes. The LN style bearing is partially submerged or splash lubricated without any additional help. We have numerous customers running that way, as do many, many other shops; and without problems. And with some now 20K units in service, they seem to have a point. J'apprecie beaucoup vos commentaires Ce est ce que nous sommes ici.

It could be a fluid issue. but to be safe you should have the car scanned with a Porsche specific tool to see what transmission codes come up.

Softronic at around $900, claim a 20HP increase over factory, or about a 6.3%,which if verifiable comes in at around $45 per claimed HP increase. While Softronic has traditionally claimed more conservative increases, what is not stated in their literature is what, if any, other modifications were done to the car (it is not uncommon for "tuners" to fail to disclose that they stated improvements were on a car that already had significant other modifications such as headers, intake, exhaust, cat modifications or bypass, etc.) . You would need to speak with them to verify that the 996 test vehicle was completely stock before the re-flash, and then determine if it meets your expectations.

Long before you would burn a piston, the car would code, even with the stock DME flash. And to go back to what Loren already stated, "on a normally aspirated 996 you can spend several thousand dollars and maybe get to an additional 30 HP", and that would be on a ten-tenths prepped car. We have had customers literally go the full boat (headers, sport cats, exhaust, intake mods, and even multiple DME re-flashes) and barely get that level of increase on these normally aspirated cars on a good dyno. We have also had owners try multiple brands of component's (headers, exhaust systems, re-flashes, etc.) end up with more spare parts than I have in my shop and a wallet that is easier to sit on, but not much more of an improvement, which was also completely born out in track lap times. It is not easy to get a ton more performance out of these cars, and quite plainly many owner's end up wondering if the view was really worth the climb. For 996 NA cars - as I'm sure you'd know - tuning is more about the driveability, throttle response, air/fuel ratios...about maximizing the gains from the headers and cats you just added to the car. Then again, feel free to nitpick and focus on certain points of my response to benefit the lesser-informed. Or if you simply wish to discredit my suggestion. The mods I suggested can be done for under $1500, if one has decent DIY skills. a custom tune such as this. Relatively affordable for the Porsche-owning high-rollers, right? Again, remember the OP's question. While at no point did I mention anything about "a ton more performance," my response simply offered the biggest bang-for-buck suggestion, addressing the areas where one tends to offer the most noticeable gains (for the least outlay) on NA 996s. No more, no less. Actually, the EVOM table is quite informative. According to the information listed in the table for 3.6L 996, and using the prices listed on the EVOM website as of today, as well as the E-bay headers and cats you mentioned, the following should apply: EVOM tune $1000 V-Flow intake $695 E-bay Headers $250 Cats $200 Total (no labor) $2145 Gain: 320HP to 345HP, or a 25HP increase, or a little less than $86 per HP, assuming a dyno would confirm their increase numbers. If you went with their "Stage 2" tune, intake and exhaust (no headers), again parts only (no labor), your gain would be around 30HP, for $2750, or around $92 per HP, again assuming the gains can be verified on the dyno.