JFP in PA

Try our board sponsor, Sunset Porsche's online parts system; currently says it is available for about $63 plus shipping: Sunset Porsche Parts Online We have purchased parts that had to be shipped from Germany, and they offered a cheap "expedited" service that got them here pretty quick. And just for perspective, just about every dealer and independent shop has parts on backorder these days.

The fork is "the industry standard" for when you are replacing the ball joints; it is fast and clean, but usually kills the boots in the process. When you need to preserve the existing components, you need a tool that allows you to get stuff apart without killing the boots; the "right tool for the job". When you put everything back together, a dab of anti-seize on the ball joint shaft will make your next service a lot easier. 😉 Nearly all brands have "nightmare" parts; several current year cars require removing about half the front-end sheet metal to replace a $35 cracked windshield washer tank that was designed to fit into an existing empty space in the front end before the fenders and facia were installed. The result is a $4K labor bill to replace the tank. Several GM models require dropping the entire engine and transmission cradle assembly out of the car to replace a single passenger's side front brake hard line for the same reason: It was put in before the engine and trans were installed, and there is no way to get the pre bent replacement line installed with the engine in place. And you would think that knowing what they have created they would at least use a stainless-steel line, but no, the factory part is an uncoated mild steel part that rusts to Hell in a couple of years' service life. So, your tank is not alone, Porsche designed it to fit and an existing space, and be installed before the rest of the front end was added. Automotive engineers call this practice "packaging", mechanics call it a "headache". And now that you have inflated my head size to the point my hat no longer fits, I think it is time for my afternoon nap 😀

May have spoken too soon, someone does make replacement boots: Replacement tie rod end ball joint boots

Absolutely everything is in the way to get at that tank. I believe that filler pipe seal is not retained in any way, it just pops into the tank opening (be sure the lip area is clean), and then expands slightly with the filler inserted, making the seal. As for the tie rod end boots, I think you are out of luck there, and will need to replace the entire rod end, which fortunately is not expensive. And for future reference, with the right tool, the boots will not get torn😉:

Just disconnect the power to it. K40 systems are overly expensive dramatically underperforming detector systems (look up some of the independent reviews of the system); you can do much better for a lot less $.

Radar (and lasers) are still "popular".

As no car ever left the factory with those indicators installed, no OBD II scan tool will even see it it.

Probably either made by, or modified by the aftermarket exhaust company; I'd start there.

Stabilizer to frame is correct, as is drop link to strut; drop link end is more complicated: 37 ft. lbs., then loosen 90 degrees, then final torque to 48 ft. lbs.

The slave pushrod is not retained in any way. I always liked to put a very small dab of the same lube for the throw out bearing tube and input shaft on both ends of the rod when installing.

Not really; you might try checking with your local chapter of PCA for members that have gone thru the same issues.

Sounds good. Getting the gear box back into these cars is often a major pain, we found that getting a couple of long bolts the same sized as the bellhousing bolts, then cutting off the hex head and finger tightening them into both sides of the engine case to act as guides really makes the job a lot simpler. 😉

You need to make sure whomever you choose has a current PIWIS system, the late model Cayenne's use a different control system than earlier Porsche's, making them a bit of a pain to run diagnostics on without the PIWIS.

At this juncture, I would say you need access to a PIWIS system to properly test cycle the individual components, as well as evaluating the transmission's external control module.

Did the valve body come with all new solenoids?

Welcome to RennTech No idea on the Oring, but normally in the Porsche parts system, if one part fits multiple vehicles, it would be noted. As the part cannot be that expensive, you could always buy it and find out; and if doesn't fit, take what is left of your old ring to a part store and try to match it up to something. Plumbing outlets are also reliable sources for this type of part. Good luck!

Excellent! Thanks, your consideration helps us make all this possible ........😉

And how about stepping up and becoming a contributing member? It costs money to run this site and have these resources available to everyone........

I replied to this earlier, it sits between the guide tube and the bearing, pretty much as shown in your photo.

If you just torque to down to a higher value, both Curil and Loctite are toast, you need to remove the nut, clean it and the center bolt threads, and then start over.

The spacer just sits there. The Curil goes on first, then a dab of blue (medium Loctite) on the center bolt closest to the bearing (so the nut fines it when it gets there), torque it, then the wicking Loctite last. A lot of shops just use the wicking stuff only, and have not encountered problems, but the use of both is a "belt and suspenders" approach.

On both the guide tube and the splines, but again, sparingly 😉

It is a fully synthetic EP3 type grease. The Sachs product I mentioned is a duplicate product that is available domestically at reasonable prices, and a single tube could last you a lifetime. 😉

The release bearing guide bolts should torque to 18 ft. lbs. The flat washer is a combination oil slinger to keep gear oil in the front bearing from walking out the release tube, and it serves as a spacer. As for the correct lubricant, Porsche specs a product you won't be able to find in this country, so I would use Sachs high-performance grease, which sells for less than $10 for a tube. Just don't go nuts applying it, a thin coating is all that is needed.

Throw out bearing looks correct. There are multiple IMS center bolt torque specs because there are different center bolts (sizes, grades, and unique undercut machining, etc.). As yours is a 2008 with the oversized bearing with a 22MM center bolt nut, torque spec is 14 ft. lb.