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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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I would connect a mechanical gauge in place of the sender and see what pressure you are getting. It is entirely possible that you have very low pressure. What oil are you running in the car? The dealership told me they only use 0W40 In that case you could try changing oil and switch to a 5W-40 to see if the pressure changes.
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I would connect a mechanical gauge in place of the sender and see what pressure you are getting. It is entirely possible that you have very low pressure. What oil are you running in the car?
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Interestingly, the MMR tool is a 14MM plug tool, so it could work.
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That looks nice. Which tool is that? I see two MMR spark plug gapping tools. PN#900985 MMR Spark Plug Gapping tool Item# 900985/234 MMR Spark Plug Gapping tool/93-2014 2V, 4V, GT500 & TiVCT 5.0 (NON 3V) PN#900985 MMR Spark Plug Gapping tool Item# 900985/235 MMR Spark Plug Gapping tool/2005-2008 3V Our is not actually a MMR tool, but looks just like it. I got it at a Porsche swap meet from a guy who made them. There are aftermarket companies that make them, like MMR, you just need to find one that is for 14MM thread diameter plugs.
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I believe there is only one antenna on your Cayman, but the system is expecting to see signals from four transmitters, one in each of the wheels, so you would need multiple signal sources. Might be cheaper to just put the sensors in the tires............. Noted in passing, with a caution because it would be defeating a Federally mandated safety system, which has lots of negative implications, but the TPMS system can be turned off; only no shop will do it (or explain how it is done) for liability reasons, which would also apply to the car's owner if they did it themselves.
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The original radio used grounds to detect its presence in the alarm network, the aftermarket radio does not do this. You need to recreate the grounds to satisfy the alarm system that the radio is there.
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I have no idea why they are giving the IK20's a "bad rap", we use them gapped to around 0.042 and have no issues with them, and in fact they ran very well for a long period. Did they say over on the other site why they don't like them? I know several people with elevated boost levels drop the gap down around 0.30 or so to accommodate the high pressures and they have had good luck with them as well. The IK20 is a good plug. I wonder if the problems they had were due to center electrode damage while gapping, very easy to do on and iridium plug............ One issue reported was that the central electrode eroded away. More than one person reporting it. Could very well have been caused by careless gapping. The other is lots of misfires with the stock gap of 0.044. Talking about gapping. How do you gap an iridium plug? Not with one of these I assume :blush: How about this tool? http://www.carid.com/accel-ignition-systems/accel-ignition-systems-12710255.html Center electrode erosion does not make sense, iridium is the hardest metal you can get in a plug; if it erodes, everything else would do so as well, only quicker. The Accel tool, or similar is excellent for controlled bending of the side electrodes, but not for setting the gap; the gap measurement tool needs to be something like this: The open wire design is flexible, and will not pull or distort the fine iridium center electrode. We use a tool like this to bend the side electrodes:
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I have no idea why they are giving the IK20's a "bad rap", we use them gapped to around 0.042 and have no issues with them, and in fact they ran very well for a long period. Did they say over on the other site why they don't like them? I know several people with elevated boost levels drop the gap down around 0.30 or so to accommodate the high pressures and they have had good luck with them as well. The IK20 is a good plug. I wonder if the problems they had were due to center electrode damage while gapping, very easy to do on and iridium plug............
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Can I use a Mityvac to change my engine oil?
JFP in PA replied to magelin's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
I wouldn't buy one of these for any car with a dipstick. First, they do not get all old, dirty oil out of the sump. Second, there are a lot of sharp edged metal bits in most oiling systems (baffles, windage trays, etc.), and the soft flexible hose required to snake into the sump often gets caught on one or more of these, mandating flat bedding the car to the shop so they can pull the sump cover off to get it out. We have done more of these than I'd care to mention. Bad idea, all around. -
IMS failure rates are somewhere between 1% and 10%, depending upon the model year. The IMS failure problem was the subject of a class action lawsuit here, do a search and you will find a lot of information. Yes, there are high mileage cars that seem fine. When the IMS fails, it typically does so without any warning, and the results are catastrophic (total engine destruction). Porsche appears to be as in the dark as the general public. LN Engineering developed a product called "The Guardian", which is an aftermarket alarm system that can warn you that failure is immanent, but that does not prevent it. The only known method to prevent IMS failure is to replace the OEM bearing with an LN Engineering ceramic hybrid bearing before the OEM bearing fails. Once failure begins, the dying bearing fills the engine with metal debris that requires the engine be removed and completely rebuilt. Again, there is a lot of information on this subject already posted, do some searching and you will literally find hours of reading about it.
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The OEM plugs are good, but you might want to take a look a Denso Iridium's as well, we have had very good luck with them.
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You definitely have miss fire issues, I would closely check the coils and go for new plugs at the same time. Non normally aspirated engines are much more sensitive to miss fires than regular air breathers, give them a reason to miss and they will.
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Two of the faults are related to the aftermarket audio; the factory unit has a ground on the radio chassis that is part of the alarm network and can cause faults because it is not properly connected on the aftermarket unit. This if for an 01 car, but the principal is the same, the radio removal security tab is in the lower slot on the left hand side below the AC Vent (Upper console).
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Yes, some of them you can even trim cut with cutting pliers as is needed. Not a soft as lead, but easier to come by in this environmentally friendly world. You can also get the them pre segmented in quarter Oz. increments which makes them easier to cut:
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Necessity has always been the motherhood of invention, so congratulations on inventing yet another new Porsche tool! :thumbup:
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Congratulations! Now try to not get too out of control......................... :eek:
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Unfortunately, 2005 was a transitional year for Porsche and the IMS; some of the car carry the replaceable single row bearing, others carry the oversized last design that cannot be changed without taking the engine apart. And the only way to know which is in the car is to take it apart and look.
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Ignition switch electrical gremlin's are legion with these cars, to the point that most shops stock replacements. Fortunately, the switch is cheap and is a DIY project. Check the archives, there have been multiple write ups on the subject, including this one: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/
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Oil fed intermediate shaft bearing upgrade?
JFP in PA replied to rennbod's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
A little more complicated: you need to prep the engine as though you were pulling the IMS (engine locked at TDC, Cams locked down, tensioners removed), then the cover comes off and a pick is used to pull the rear seal. -
Oil fed intermediate shaft bearing upgrade?
JFP in PA replied to rennbod's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
We do not use them, but simply remove the rear seal on the OEM bearing. We have more than a few customers running this way with no issues. -
Not really correct; DOT and TUV approved lines have been around for a very long time, and they do not have to be plastic coated to be DOT. Goodridge makes lines with and without coatings, both are DOT/TUV, and both have tags on them for the approvals.
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Normally, we let pressure tests sit for at least 15 to 30 min. to see if they hold pressure. From your test description, you are probably fine. Not surprised you found enough stuff in the radiators for your own National Geographic special; that is a common thing with these cars. I don't remember how many miles are on the car, but the water pumps in these vehicles should be considered a maintenance item that needs to be periodically replaced.
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Yes, as little as possible is always the best path. Plexus (the plastic window cleaner) on a buffer is often enough, or one of the polishes ( I like Griot's fine glass polish and a random orbital buffer). 3M's synthetic cleaner wax also does a good job on lights that are not too far gone. Stay away from the kits that start with sandpaper, that is usually where DIY's go bad and entire headlights end up being replaced.......
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Your higher end wheel makers like HRE, Champion and Forgeline do, and I am sure there are others as well.
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Most people seem to confuse HID light colors with output. Xenon bulbs come in a of colors (measured as their degree K temperature) and range from white to blue and even purple. You might want to visit the web site of xenon bulb makers as the often have color chart comparisons to help you decide which color is best for your application. You may want to take a close look out your outer lens as well, it may need polishing to help reduce the xenon beam dispersal.
