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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Continuing to run and engine with a prior failed IMS is a total crap shoot, some make it, but many do not. The M96/97 engine design has a lot of small "pockets" in the oil system where debris can lurk for a long time before breaking loose and circulating through the system; and it only takes one particle in the wrong place to start a cascading disaster scenario. Your best bet is lots of oil & filter changes (you can use non synthetic oil for this, and a spin on filter, magnetic drain plug, and magnetic pad wrapped around the filter would be advisable as well). Good luck........
  2. Be aware that moving from a dual mass to a single mass flywheel is not recommended on non-Metzger engine cars without internally rebalancing the engine to dampen harmonics. The dual mass flywheel is the only harmonic dampener in the engine and its removal has caused some pretty significant problems, including crank failures. Jake Raby has written extensively about these problems on his website: http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank Porsche also once circulated an internal memo to dealers telling them that they would not honor engine failure warranties on cars that had been switched to single mass flywheels for the same reasons. Single mass flywheels and unsprung clutch discs also can be a noisy pain to drive on the street.
  3. Your problem is exactly why I laugh when people spend a lot of money for aftermarket "cold air" intakes for these cars. The Boxster air intake setup pulls in cold air from the driver's side port, along with anything else that happens to be near by (leaves, dirt, debris, small children, etc.). Depending upon the type of roads you drive on, annual or even semi annual filter changes are an excellent maintenance item. The filters are cheap, readily available, and easy to change; we use the Wix/NAPA Gold 42475 which retails at auto parts stores for about $16.
  4. LN Nickies liners, the LN triple ceramic bearing IMS upgrade (or the IMS solution if it is a single row engine), LN chrome moly oil pump drive, LN spin oil filter adaptor, ARP bolts (cylinder head, rod, and crank carrier), oil pump, water pump, billet tensioner paddles, new tensioners, AOS. I'd also look at replacing the cam followers with later design units that have less tendency to plug up. go through the heads carefully while they are off, replace anything that shows signs of wear (springs, retainers, etc.), fresh valve job.
  5. The "spray welding" process used to do that type of repair is dependent upon how the crank was originally made; forged steel can be welded up, nodular iron is much more difficult to do. You would need to talk to a top quality crank shop on ifs type of repair is even possible.
  6. Porsche does not supply crank or rod bearing shells in other than stock sizes. I am also not aware of anyone in the after market that does either. Suggest looking for a new replacement crank and rod(s); and it would also be a good time for better rod bolts like ARP.
  7. Never good to hear, but withhold judgment until the car is pulled apart and checked; it could still be something else.
  8. It is entirely possible that the sunroof electric motor is on the way out. Try working the roof through a full cycle using the manual Allan wrench crank, if it moves smoothly, the drive motor is bad.
  9. First of all, Osram Night Breaker Unlimited are Halogen bulbs, not xenon's. The only time I have come across this type of damage was when someone used too high wattage aftermarket halogen "super bulbs" in and vain attempt to get more light out of the headlights. In any case, I'm afraid you are in the market for a new headlight assembly.
  10. Shop around, you can often find a used "Enthusiast" version with only one of the three VIN slots used at a healthy discount. And they don't cost that much brand new either.......................
  11. That would totally depend upon how many spline teeth it is off on the shaft; more often than not, one spline is either not enough or too much wheel rotation. Adjusting the tie rods is infinitely variable.
  12. No, there is no intermediate shaft in the 9A1.
  13. The easiest way is to center the wheel while the car is sitting on an alignment rack, and then readjust the tie rod ends on the steering rack until the wheels are correctly aligned. I'd suggest this is a job best left to the pro's unless you have an alignment rack in your garage........... Talk with your service advisor at Barrier, they might just do it for nothing.
  14. If the AT engine was fitted after early 2005, it carries the non serviceable bearing. Unfortunately, unless you can narrow that date down, there is no way to know without looking at the IMS center bolt. JFP, what set up does the 991 engine use, particularly the Turbo if you happen to know?? Sure; Porsche stopped production of the legendary, but dated, Metzger lump which has been the mainstay for Turbo, GT, and race car engines for a lot of years. The 991 Turbo uses a variant of the 9A1 direct injection engine that is common in all of the later model cars.
  15. Not completely, common problem area is the floor pan, sills, and the battery tray areas. Once they start, you need some new sheet metal:
  16. Moto, If you can find one in good shape the 944 Turbo is a great ride. I think JFP will agree that the motor in that car is as bullet proof as they get as long as they have not been modified and have been maintained properly. And the body has not rusted to dust.............
  17. If the AT engine was fitted after early 2005, it carries the non serviceable bearing. Unfortunately, unless you can narrow that date down, there is no way to know without looking at the IMS center bolt.
  18. Because we do it for a living, we often see people that try to make maintenance or repair decisions on one of these cars on a price basis alone. Unfortunately, when someone starts down that pathway, the journey often unhappily takes them somewhere other than where they intended to go, and sometimes leaves them with a bad taste in their mouth. These cars are neither cheap to buy, or maintain; and they have to be maintained. Owning a Porsche is a commitment, both to enjoy driving one of these superbly engineered vehicles, and having both the means and mindset to maintain it as it was designed to be kept. If you are ready to make that commitment, it can be memorable journey..............
  19. Imagine the long USB cable hooked up to a tower so that it can reach multiple bays, and the tower to a large flat screen that can be swiveled so you can see it, makes life really easy, particularly when the tower is connected to your backup server that stores copies of client data files................. :thumbup: Now if you connected the Durametric cable's USB plug into a wireless bridge with power for the USB port, and the tower on the other end setup to receive the signal, you could make the leap to a wireless connection. Of course with the flat screen TV professional setup like you have, I can definitely see that :) I did think about the wireless brige with powered USB port setup like you said. Just never had the time to make one yet. Also, the stock (short) cable will still dangle from the dongle even with that setup. It would be nice if Durametric comes out with something similar to those low-profile bluetooth dongles that completely eliminate any cord. I have several OEM scan tools that have bluetooth dongles I never use them. Bluetooth may be for looking at PIDs but coding/locking modules no way! I guess I am also too lazy to unplug my ethernet cable from the pass though tool. Call me old school but hardwired is the only way to go. What are you going to do when OBD III shows up? No connector plug to hardwire to.................... :help:
  20. Having to depress the clutch to start the car is a North American trait mandated by the Feds to keep the unwary from driving through the back wall of their garage and into the family room because they forgot to depress the pedal. Been that way since the late 1960's. A grey market car would not have it.
  21. Item # 17
  22. Or you could be totally adventuresome and use Joe Gibbs DT 40 5W-40, which is a much better oil to begin with.
  23. I can't use a cable as short as 5 meters. Durametric does not run at that speed, it is slower, you can use a long USB cable without problems. We have one over 30ft. and it works fine.
  24. Imagine the long USB cable hooked up to a tower so that it can reach multiple bays, and the tower to a large flat screen that can be swiveled so you can see it, makes life really easy, particularly when the tower is connected to your backup server that stores copies of client data files................. :thumbup: Now if you connected the Durametric cable's USB plug into a wireless bridge with power for the USB port, and the tower on the other end setup to receive the signal, you could make the leap to a wireless connection.
  25. Good point; we use a tower in the shop, so a long cable is handy. We also use it on a laptop for data acquisition during a road test, or for use on road side service calls.
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