JFP in PA

Not particularly.

And Homeboy, although banned here, posted on another forum that the engine with the "other" IMS bearing in it failed as well, engine full of metal......

#2 is a bad idea. You are not going to get all the metal out flushing the engine, and the damage the remaining grit does will eventually be fatal. At this juncture, you still have a salvageable engine, if you run it and do more damage, that may no longer be true. Time to pull it and either rebuild or replace; and put the new IMS in it either way.

First off, no need to thank me. You are the one taking the time to help me out, and I appreciate that. Regarding no idle issues, there are none that I know of. The car keeps a consistent idle at around 700 RPM. There is only minor deviance when running at idle or when shifting from load into neutral. But there definitely has not been any surges or stalls. Regarding performance issues, there are none that I am aware of. The car is used as a daily driver when both I choose not to ride my motorcycles and when the roads permit, so as a result I usually shift at around 3,000 RPM. And in that non-track, speed limit enforced, public road setting, I have noticed nothing out of the ordinary. This makes me think that something is beginning to fail as opposed to something that has already failed. Regarding running rich, it probably is. Probably not consistently, but when certain criteria - high ambient temperatures, car fully warmed up, engine at idle - I would presume so. I see no other reason as to why the CEL would trigger otherwise. From just a nearly baseless "sniff test", the car runs really rich when it starts, but once the O2 sensors heat up, it tends to lean itself out. Regarding the O2 upstream sensors looking worse, alright. I'll donate to read the link you provided. :) Regarding changing the downstream O2 sensors from ohms to volts, the Durametric does not appear to have the ability to do so. Remember - I only have access to a $287 aftermarket tool and not factory diagnostic tools. Durametric can read and graph O2 sensor voltages...........

Oil from an AOS failure will not make both side of the engine read lean. Yes, you need either the Durametric system of one of Porsche's (PIWIS or PST II) to read the sensors, and you could also read the fuel trim data as well. That said, to check the fuel system, you only need a fuel pressure test gauge and about 10 min.

They would indicate either a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure/volume. Both banks have reached their enrichment limits, so the car is lean on both sides. This is not a MAF issue, and it is probably not an O2 sensor getting weak as both banks are lean. I would start with a fuel pressure and delivery test to eliminate fuel delivery as an issue; if they are OK, you have an intake vacuum leak somewhere in the system........

Probably the best place to start is to connect a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric) to the car set in a data logging mode and run the car through the RPM window where you feel this anomaly. You sound like you are in the range where both the cam and valve timing are active, so you are going need to do some data collection to see what is going on at the time. Might help to also have someone in the car with you to note when it occurs to help pin point the variables.

From experience, I would have to say they have added features to their system for both new and legacy vehicles over time; but as they have to find ways to get around Porsche's draconian protection of their property rights in the process, you never know how a particular feature will play out going forward. But in reality, they really are "the only aftermarket show in town" when it comes to Porsche diagnostics.

Pull the alternator out and take it one of the parts stores that advertise they will load test it free of charge. There are other component's in the unit that can fail. I would also check all your cables for corrosion (common problem) which leads to higher resistance and reduced voltage (might want to do a search on this, been covered multiple times). As for no core charge, for that you are going to have to shop around, most parts outlets are going to charge you a core charge.

You need to think of the Durametric system as a "work in progress", they are left to try and guess at what Porsche is up to at any moment in time, and how they are doing it, without violating any intellectual property rights. Not easy to do...........

And, if you have replaced any componentry, you may need to adjust the oil level in the system as well. Porsche has a table that lists the proper amounts of PAG oil to add for each component replaced.

Posted results When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it. So comparing the results from the Durametric to the voltage reading at the battery + terminal won't offer confirmation ? As an update, checked the Durametric voltage at DME and it reads anywhere from 12.96 to 13.12 with AC, Radio and front cooling fans and engine at idle. Voltage at battery + terminal under the same conditions varied between 13.10 and 13.56. Engine was fully warmed up. A system that is in good shape (battery fully charged, cables good) should show a static voltage (engine not running) of around 12.6V at the battery. Engine running on a system in good shape, you should be seeing 13.5-14.5V at the battery. At a minimum, your voltages are a bit low. Check the system again, engine running but everything else turned off; if the Durametric voltage is not in the 13.5-14.5V range either there is an alternator/regulator problem, or one or more of the cables are high in internal resistance.Posted results, with everything I could turn off turned off, in above post. Many thanks for your help. The voltage readings you listed where most helpful and the first time I have seen them listed together presenting a much clearer undersanding of what I should belooking for in the results. As noted will post retest results once I install he new harness. Elimination of my starting issues further supports the fact that this issue is not limited to the '05-'06 models. Hot starting issues associated with internal cable corrosion are unfortunately all too common across several model years; Porsche actually released updated cables with improvements designed to address this exact problem. While the replacement cables are not all that expensive, the confined spaces they run through make replacement a bit of time consuming but otherwise not difficult job.

Because they still carried the dual row bearing, which was the least failure prone style.

It would probably be best to flush and bleed the system last to minimize any chance of problems. Be sure to properly bed your new pads and rotors when everything is done. Which fluid you use is important; we strictly use the ATE brand at the shop due to its high boiling points and excellent performance history. Look around a bit, a lot of retailers that focus on the performance market carry it, and it is readily available online as well.

I think he is referring to the rattle and noise you get after switching to a single mass lightweight flywheel, which is a common complaint, and an indication of the loss of dampening.

When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it. So comparing the results from the Durametric to the voltage reading at the battery + terminal won't offer confirmation ? As an update, checked the Durametric voltage at DME and it reads anywhere from 12.96 to 13.12 with AC, Radio and front cooling fans and engine at idle. Voltage at battery + terminal under the same conditions varied between 13.10 and 13.56. Engine was fully warmed up. A system that is in good shape (battery fully charged, cables good) should show a static voltage (engine not running) of around 12.6V at the battery. Engine running on a system in good shape, you should be seeing 13.5-14.5V at the battery. At a minimum, your voltages are a bit low. Check the system again, engine running but everything else turned off; if the Durametric voltage is not in the 13.5-14.5V range either there is an alternator/regulator problem, or one or more of the cables are high in internal resistance.

The O2 sensor readings were for both pre- and post-catalytic converter. Attached is a screenshot of the O2 sensor readings from Durametric when warm. The low values seem to be lower today than yesterday. Getting cold numbers is a bit more difficult due to working in the morning, but I will try to provide those when I can. Unless you mean "Oxygen sensing cylinders 1-3" and "Oxygen sensing cylinders 4-6", I am not seeing how to measure the O2 sensor voltage of a specific bank. And the oxygen sensing reading for cylinders 1-3 is 1.01 to 1.05 and for cylinders 4-6 s 0.99 to 1.02, which seems out of the sweet spot if that value does reflect an O2 sensor - unless maybe the value is scaled so that 1.0 is 14.7:1...? Sorry about that. My car is a 1999 Carrera C2. It does have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel injector rail. Looks like I need to order a fuel pressure and vacuum gauge. Regarding the MAF, darn. I didn't think so. It's never the relatively cheap part that is easy to access... So if it does turn out to be fuel injector related, what are the odds that sending the injectors to be professionally cleaned would fix them versus having to replace one or more injectors? Thank you! Yes, the injectors can be refurbished, there are a lot of shops that do this, so look for one in your area.

You also need to do a search on problems associated with the use of single mass flywheels on these engines. Porsche even release a tech bulletin about not using them due to loss of torsional and harmonic dampening, which is what the dual mass is there for. Some engine builders will not use them unless the engine is first properly rebalanced. I know someone will chime in and tell you that they have had one for years and not had problems, but I can assure you that is not always the case, and the results can be disasterous. This is what happened to a 3.6 X51 engine that was not rebalanced before using a light weight single mass flywheel, if you want to read more about it, start here: http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank

When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it.

The DME monitors the output voltage of the alternator, should be in the actual values section. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? You mentioned changing cables; if you are having issues with the charging system involving the cables, you should be looking at resistance, not voltage, as corrosion inside the cables causes the resistance to rise, restricting current (amperage) flow. This is often difficult to catch by monitoring voltage, but easy to see when looking at resistance. And you cannot read resistance off of any scanning system I am aware of, you need a multimeter and access to the cable, which means pulling the alternator if you cannot get behind it.

Well, you could hook it up to the Durametric software and read it.

The P1123 Code "Oxygen Sensing adaptation range 1 Cylinders 1-3) Lean limit" is referring to the fact that DME has reached its limit is trying to lean out that bank and the car is running too rich as the result. Usual two suspects are either high fuel pressure or a leaking injector(s) on that side. As you have not identified your year or model, in some cases is can also be a defect fuel pressure regulator on the injector fuel rail, depending upon the year, as some models do not have the external regulator. There is little probability of the MAF being involved in this issue. Step number one should be to get a fuel pressure reading off the test port on the fuel rail, should be 55+/-3 PSIG engine off; 48+/-3 PSIG engine running. If it is an early car with an external fuel pressure regulator, pull the vacuum line off the regulator and read the vacuum on the line, should be around 15 inches of vacuum. Checking the individual injectors is a bit more difficult; for a DIY, probably the easiest approach is to pull all the plugs on that bank and check their color. If one or more are overly dark, those would be your suspect injectors.

If you buy an LN Engineering magnetic drain plug, the torque specs are 19 ft-lbs. Very important to remember or you will be rewarded with your "following the Porsche torque specs" diligence with the privilege of starting your own "how to remove stripped drain plug?" thread. :blink: Wrong! Read the Porsche Service Manual. The torque specs on the oil filer is 19 ft-lb. The torque on the oil drain plug is 37 ft-lb. Perhaps we need to drop a note to Charles Navvaro as his website states the following: Uses O.E. sealing ring Porsche part number 900 123 106 30. Torque to 19 ft/lb. Replace sealing ring every time you re-install the drain plug. Could just be a typo......

Yes, the chain rails between the cams are a good option. You will also need specific cam holding tools to remove the covers with out risking damage.

Almost correct, the cam cover has to come off: I think the two fasteners that the OP may have been referring to are the seal O-ring cover that bolts to the cam cover.