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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. First of all, factory installed Lits have a neat diagnostics function that allows a good diagnostics tool like the PIWIS or Durametric software can not only read problems, but can "exercise" the lights so that you can evaluate their functions. While it sounds like you may have one lamp assembly off its gimble point (which is why the tool does not fit correctly), I would be looking at seeing what is wrong and/or reseating the lamp before playing with adjustments.
  2. Inhaling a large amount of oil will make any car run rough for a period of time, that is nothing unusual. But inhaling the oil should have no effect on the sensors or codes you are seeing now, they are an unrelated and separate issue. And as the MAF is upstream from where the AOS would dump oil into your intake, it also should not be involved, although it may still be dirty from just accumulated miles. One point on having the crank sensor, or most any other sensor as well, checked out by either a competent independent shop or the dealer is that the diagnostics tools they have should be able to evaluate the existing sensor before it is changed. We are advocates for diagnostics ahead of parts changing, something far too many tend to do in reverse, which often leads to spending a lot of money to fix what should have been a simpler and cheaper fix.
  3. Porsche is pretty specific on what lubricants are supposed to be used exclusively in the Tiptronic and manual gear boxes, regardless of what you read on the internet; straying from the recommendations typically leads to some serious issues. I would start by dumping, and flushing the system (remember, the converter holds a large part of the fluid and does not drain munch by gravity) to get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
  4. A word of caution about the impact of fuel level on the fuel pumps in these cars: They are cooled by the fuel that surrounds the pump, so running the car low on fuel can cause the pump to overheat and suffer a premature failure.
  5. No, you need to connect a pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail. I would also strongly suggest scanning the car with a Porsche specific system (PIWIS, PST II, Durametric system).
  6. If the battery disconnect were to "reset something", there should be a code stored in the system.What fuel pressure are you seeing at idle?
  7. I seriously doubt it, these sensors are not in the exhaust stream.
  8. Rather hard to say without knowing what they found, or what repairs are actually needed. An all in IMS refit (with a new clutch) alone should be in the $2-3K range by itself.
  9. It is hard to say if the sender needs to be replaced with out actually seeing the damage, but if everything is working OK I would be a bit suspicious of changing it without a sound reason.
  10. The codes are for the cam position sensors being outside limits. If just the sensor(s) need to be replaced, they can be done with the engine in the car (they are on opposite ends of the cylinder head cam covers) after removing some stuff that is in the way. Question becomes are the sensors bad, or are they seeing a real cam deviation issue, which would require going deeper into the VarioCam system and potentially pulling the engine. The cam position sensors work in tandem with the crank position sensor to determine where everything is at any given moment, so the crank sensor is called into question as well, and that sounds like the dealer's 200 pound quote. If the car was in my shop, I would pull and replace the crank sensor with a known good unit (only takes a couple of min. on a lift), clear the codes and see if they return. I would also get a reading of the cam deviation values before and after swapping the crank sensor (dealer PIWIS or Durametric software can read this) If the codes do not return, or if the cam deviation values come into line, the CPS was bad, if the codes come back, I'd next go after the cam sensors.
  11. Don't do it. If you have a leak that is bad enough to cause concern, fix it; but do not throw snake oil band aids at it.......................
  12. I have never heard of this happening, but I do know that what weight oil you choose can cause a car that has never leaked to do so.
  13. Move cautiously and in a planned manner, the first thing you need to know is where you are; then and only then can you plot a path forward with confidence.
  14. First of all, I'd really like to see some of those "magnetic aluminum" flakes, because there is no such thing. If the flakes are aluminum, they would not be picked up by a magnet; if they are picked up by a magnet, they are not aluminum. There also is no aluminum in the IMS bearing, the OEM unit is all steel. Get a magnet and find out what you are dealing with, because it matters significantly in where you go next. You next step should be to find out how much metal is in the engine, and its shape (e.g.: flakes or granular). This would be done by dropping the sump cover. Do not even consider having the dealer do this, they have no interest in finding out what is really wrong, they want to sell you a $20K replacement. If there is a substantial amount of metal, you have a serious problem; if there is just some metal in the sump, it may not be serious at all. If I were in your shoes, I would check the LN Engineering website for one of their certified installers in your area. They would be best equipped to assess the situation before going the big bucks replacement route, and I would move cautiously before declaring the engine toast..........
  15. Yes, it is possible to overfill the trans, and you must run the car until the fluid reaches 30-40C in park (only), then adjust the fluid level as needed.
  16. One with an known high ZPPD level, good film strength, and the ability to withstand high heat/high shear without falling out of grade.
  17. Yes, the heater core itself can leak, but fortuantely it is easy to get at and replace if it does.
  18. The differnces in battery life and/or performance typically comes down to design and construction methods. All other things being equal, if you reduce the amount of metallic lead in the plate frame, you shorten life and reduce capcity. If you do not wrap the plates well enough, use a quality plate seperation technology, or do not "pack" (how tightly the plates are sandwiched) the cells enough, life is shortened considerably and reduced vibration resistance. So even though you start with basically the same ingredients, you end up with a different product depending upon where you choose to cut corners. Unfortunately, even though two batteries look the same, and seem to have the same initial specs, what you get long term can, and will, vary significantly based upon the things you cannot see, but do matter.............. Batteries sold through "big box" stores are commodities, even brand named products, and are typically made to the store's specs, which always leads with price. This is the reason you often see a brand named product, but with a weird part number in this setting, the product was manufactured to the store's specs and cannot be found at any other outlet, and most likely will perform differently than a similar model purchased elsewhere.
  19. All ignition system component's age with use, and as compression ratios go up, and obviously even more so in turbo or supercharged engines where the cylinder peak pressures escalate even more quickly, the more quickly the ignition components become unable to "light the fire", sometimes on just an intermittent level. So what you are seeing is not at all unusual or unexpected, and it is also why full race engines resort to multi spark and really high voltage ignition systems. The penance you have to pay for higher HP output on the street is more frequent maintenance and often higher quality ignition components.
  20. All the more reason to check every non castellated fastener on the front end of the car. I too have never seen these fasteners even come loose, much less fall out of the car while driving; very disconcerting......
  21. Not an uncommon occurrence, Porsche is learning by experience, just as we are. I would suggest also getting a replacement for the same bolt on the other side of the car, bolts are relatively cheap, fishing the car out of ditch after the front end falls apart at speed is not......... hmm yeah, two bolts are on order - one for each side of the car. BOTH of them went missing!! Just as an aside, who was the last to work on the front end of the car? You mentioned you have aftermarket suspension pieces..........
  22. Not an uncommon occurrence, Porsche is learning by experience, just as we are. I would suggest also getting a replacement for the same bolt on the other side of the car, bolts are relatively cheap, fishing the car out of ditch after the front end falls apart at speed is not.........
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